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This course is a collection of short Photoshop and Illustrator projects and creative effects that can be completed in ten minutes or less. The series is taught by computer graphics guru Deke McClelland, and presented in his signature step-by-step style. The intent is to reveal how various Photoshop and Illustrator features can be combined and leveraged in real-world examples so that they can be applied to creative projects right away.
Hey, gang, this is Deke McClelland. Welcome to another special Irish edition of Deke's Techniques. If you're a regular viewer of this thing, you may recall the Dunguaire Castle which I captured in County Clare, Ireland, and then caged inside of Camera Raw. In today's movie, we're going to take this very same image, and we're going to apply a kind of antique photo effect once again inside Camera Raw. We'll balance the luminance levels to create the sepia tone, and we'll add some film grain, and vignetting as well. Now for me personally, this image reminds me of a past life in which I was the rich and powerful king of this very castle, true story.
Here, let me show you exactly how it works. All right, here's that antique photo effect, just so you can see it on screen. We're going to start off with this full-color photograph. And because I went ahead and expressed the photo as a Smart Object, I can revisit my Camera Raw settings just by double-clicking on the Smart Objects thumbnail here inside the Layers Panel. Now, if you're working along with me, the next thing you want to do is go over to the Basic Panel flyout menu and choose Camera Raw Defaults, just to zero out all these values down here.
And then the only change I am going to make here inside the Basic Panel is to take the Contrast value up to +35. Otherwise, we're going to do the work inside of other panels, starting with this guy right here. Go ahead and switch to HSL/Grayscale, and then turn on the Convert to Grayscale check box in order to dial in a custom black-and-white image based on these luminance ranges right here. So, for example, let's say I want to increase the brightness of the reds, I would just go ahead and take this Reds value up. Now, there's only one item inside this image that's red, and that's the coat associated with this tiny figure in the lower left corner of the photograph.
If I take the Reds value down to -100, she grows very dark, and if I take the value up, she grows lighter. I am going to take the value up to +66. Now, I will take the Oranges value up to 100 in order to brighten the castle, and I will brighten it even more by taking the Yellows value up to 100 as well. At this point, I wanted to darken some of the greens inside the grass. So, I will take the Greens value down to -66. There are no Aquas, and you can always test out whether there is anything going on in the Luminance range just by dragging that slider around.
If you see nothing changing, then you might as well just zero out the value. Now, I'd like to darken up the sky, and I can do that by reducing the Blues value as you can see here, and I want to make it that radically dark, however, so I will take the value down to -50. And there are no Purples, and there are no Magentas, so I will just go ahead and zero out those values as well. Now, to infuse the image with a little bit of color in order to create the effect of a sepia tone, go ahead and switch to the Split Toning Panel right here. Now, you're not going to see any changes to your image until you increase both of the Saturation values, the one for the highlights, and the one for the shadows.
I am going to start by changing this first Saturation value to 20%, and then I will increase the second Saturation value to 50%. I am not interested in this pinkish effect. So, I will change the Hue associated with the highlights to 50, which is very nearly yellow, just on the orange side. And then I will change the Hue associated with the shadows to 45 degrees in order to produce this effect here. I want to adjust the balance a little bit, that is, the balance between what is considered to be shadows and what's considered to be highlights.
If you drag the slider triangle to left, then more regions of the image will be considered shadows, and therefore you will get this high saturation. If you drag this slider to the right, then more the image is considered to be highlights, and so you get the lower saturation value. I want the Balance value to be 66, so I will go ahead and change it to that. Now, switch over to Lens Corrections, because we cleared the Lens Corrections I had already applied, and go ahead and turn on Enable Lens Profile Corrections.
And if you're working inside Camera Raw 6 which is included along with Photoshop CS5, then you'll want to turn on the check box down here at the bottom of the panel as well. In Camera Raw 7, it's located here inside the Color Panel, and it's called Remove Chromatic Aberration. Wherever it is, turn it on, and then switch over to the fx icon. This is where we're going to add the film grain and the vignetting, by the way. And the values that I came up with were an Amount of 75%. And then I took the Size up to 50% so that we have some chunky noise.
Go ahead and press Ctrl+Alt+0 or Command+Option+0 on the Mac just so that you can see this film grain emerge on screen here. I increase the Roughness value to 75% in order to produce this effect here. Now, I will go ahead and zoom out by pressing Ctrl+0 or Command+0 on the Mac. And finally, what we want to do is add some vignetting. So I will change the Amount value to -25%, which ends up producing a dark vignette around the corners. All the other values are fine as set to their defaults. However, I did decide to change the Style from Highlight Priority to Color Priority.
It doesn't make a huge difference. But, you will see a slight change on screen. And that's it. I will go ahead and click OK in order to apply that effect from Camera Raw. Now, the final thing that I decided to do was apply a little bit of sharpening to this grain, just to emphasize it ever so slightly. And I did that by going up to the Filter Menu and choosing Sharpen and then choosing Smart Sharpen. And these are the values I came up with, by the way. I will go ahead and click on a portion of the image so that we can see the Sharpening applied here inside the dialog box.
So, this is how the image looks without the sharpness. This is what it looks like with some additional sharpening. Notice that I've set the Amount value to 200%, the Radius is set to 2 pixels, and I went with the Lens Blur setting right here just because I like the way it looks. Now, you want to leave More Accurate turned off, otherwise if you turn that check box on, you'll end up with a sort of wormy effect which is no good. So, turn it off and then click OK. Because I applied the Smart Sharpen to a Smart Object, Photoshop has expressed it as a smart filter, which means we can edit the settings anytime we like.
Now, we don't really need this filter mask here. So, I am just going to right-click on it and choose Delete Filter Mask to tidy up the Layers Panel. And then I will double-click on this little slider icon in order to bring up the Blend Options dialog box, click on this little detail once again in order to zoom in on that region inside the dialog box. And I am going to reduce the Opacity value to 66%, just to take a little bit of edge off that sharpening effect. And now click OK in order to apply that change. I will go ahead and zoom in on my image a little bit, and then I'll press the F key a couple of times in order to switch to the Full Screen Mode.
And that's how you take a full-color digital photograph, and render it out as a kind of antique film photo using a combination of Camera Raw and Photoshop. If you're a member of the lynda.com online training library, I have a follow-up movie in which I show you how to take our antique photo effects so far. We'll bring it in the Photoshop, add this frame as well as some layer effects, and we'll ultimately achieve this weathered old black and white print photo. If you're waiting for next week's free technique, I will show you how to draw this immensely popular suicidal pig-fighting bird cartoon, your very own custom Grumpy Bird-- that's my generic brand--inside Adobe Illustrator.
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