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This weekly course covers the most common questions videographers encounter when shooting and editing with DSLR cameras, from choosing a frame size and frame rate to understanding moiré. Authors Rich Harrington and Robbie Carman will also help you understand the impacts of compression and the difference between cropped (or micro 4/3rds) and full-sized sensors in cameras, and much more. This continual FAQ guide is a handy way to find the answers to the questions that plague you the most.
Jim Ball: Referring back originally to film camera days, the shutter speed was the amount of time, that the mirror shutter was open, to expose the film. In digital speak, it's it means the same thing in terms of how long, an exposure is being made on the sensor. But more importantly, and the usage that we care about, is how it portrays motion. So there's an exposure element to it, it actually affects the lightness, brightness, or darkness of an image, but also how motion is portayed. So the longer the shutter speed, i.e.
60, 30, 25, going down, the number gets smaller, but the exposure time gets longer, that will make your motion blurry, okay? It'll make it more blurry. The faster the shutter angle, i.e., 125, 160, 200th of a second, the shutter's only open a fraction of a second so that's going to make your motion sharper. When I would go around that number, a), would be if I want to have a motion effect, like I want to heighten the energy of some motion, by making it sharper or, or dulling it down or making it softer.
Like I spoke before motion. But also, if I need to cheat and get some more exposure, I just need a little more exposure. I have no aperture left on my lens, whatever. I can, change my exposure by say lowering the shut, making lock shuttering go longer, exposing the sensor longer. And if my motion, motion is at a minimum I can probably get away with it and keep it pretty sharp.
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