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Compressor 4 Essential Training streamlines the processes of compressing and encoding media in Final Cut Pro X's companion compression software. This course introduces the fundamental concepts of compression, how to determine appropriate compression settings, and building and modifying encoding presets for a variety of outputs, including Apple and Android devices, DVDs, PowerPoint, and the web. The course also covers placing watermarks, setting destinations, and transcoding files automatically using droplets.
At the time of recording this, there are only really three Apple devices that we really pay attention to: it's the iPhone, the iPad, and the Apple TV. I happen to own one of all three, but I'll be honest, I don't know a ton of people with the Apple TV. Even with that being the case, you should see that Apple has some wonderful presets, and I would just want to show you how to tweak the presets just a little bit. I am going to take this piece of video. This is my Mission Statement Starting Point. You can use any piece of video you want, or take something from Final Cut 10. I am going to drag and drop that in there.
You can see this idea Drag Settings and Destinations. I am going to roll open the Apple Settings. Here are my Apple Devices. I have three settings here, two that are meant for high-definition devices. That would be my iPad, my iPhone 4--the earlier iPhones don't have enough resolution for it--or my Apple TV. And you can see they are fairly well labeled: Retina Display at 5 Megabits, Retina Display at 10 Megabits. If you're using an older iPod, if you're using something that you just need to work everywhere, you can use the SD Settings.
This will build a much smaller file. Nut this idea that I'm trying to link in your head is the idea that there is a relationship between the amount of data per frame and how large the end file will be. Let's take a quick look here. So the standard def 1, when I click on the second tab this is the Encoder tab, there are specific settings here, specific things that are unique, because Apple was using their own conversion for their own devices. You can see the SD controls are about 1.5 megabits per second.
When I look at the HD for Apple Devices, like my iPhone 4, you can see this number jumps to 5,000; and when I do it for like the Apple TV or the iPad, we talk about the number of 10,000. Guess what? The 10-megabit one will be twice the size of the 5-megabit one, which will be about three times larger than the SD. So it's really about which kind of file you want to have. There is no point in taking a file that you have that's in standard definition and blowing it up to high def. Your hardware will do that. This is just a drag-and-drop.
I am going to go ahead, and I am going to build this for blanket compatibility. So I'll take this up here. I will go ahead and drag and drop and when I click on it, you can see my Inspector light up and I get the ability to make a couple of choices here. On this Encoder tab, there are some gears, and what these gears will do is automatically make the changes for you, all automatically based on the source. You don't actually have to touch anything; but if you wanted to you, could click on this and pick a specific size. You could click on this and pick a specific frame rate, but generally speaking, we want the Apple tools to natively do this for us.
In this case, because I'm trying to make this as small as possible, maybe even to email it, I'm going to take it down to 1,000 kilobits per second. I am going to save this. We are going to call this iPhone for email. I will do a Save As here. We'll call it iPhone for email. I always like to add whatever this number is as a bit rate when possible. I will write that as 1mbs. Its 1 megabit per second instead of 1000 kilobits per second. I am going to hit Save.
You will see that the bottom of the list, under my Custom settings here, when I click on that iPhone for email, I would like you to see though, you are going to get 450 megs per hour of source. You could fit a two-hour movie in less than a gigabyte. So while this is optimum for my iPhone or my iPad, or my iPhone or iPod, it certainly can be used just for standard playback. With this being set, all I now need to do is hit the Submit button. It'll compress the file. I am not going to do this here in this movie, but you certainly can do this at home. And I really encourage you, anytime you're playing with these bitrate numbers, these data rate numbers, to try files. And remember that the larger these are the bigger the files are going to be; the smaller they are the smaller that files are going to be.
Of course the smaller the files are, the more compressed it will be, and possibly the worse it will look. So I have gone ahead and hit Submit and already compressed this movie. Let's take a look at what the final version of it looks like. We have here the original, our Starting Point, and its 500 megabytes. Our finished version here is coming in at all of 4 megabytes. This is like 100 to 1 reduction. Let's see what the difference is there. I am going to select both of them and open them with QuickTime 7. I only prefer QuickTime 7 because I have got a little bit better control over screen sizing.
Here is my original movie. It's gigantic. I am going to take it down to only half its size. It's still real big on screen. Here is the one that I did right now. Let's make sure it's actual size. It's a much smaller movie. It's got some damage to it. As I play it, we can see here, as I go back a couple of frames, we can see some of the damage in it, some of the breaking up, some of the blockiness this that we won't see in the original.
But that's what compression is meant for. You can see how clear the original is, and we can see it's just a little bit blocky, but this is acceptable, and certainly acceptable at the size because I can certainly email this or put this on any of the Apple devices.
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