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Bass frequencies bounce around the room but eventually find their way to the corners, which then act as wave guides to focus them back into the room. They're the greatest culprits for bass build up and require treatment in order to tame the low frequency peaks that every room has. That's why if you've ever built an effective RFC, you still need as many bass traps as you can get to even out the low frequency bumps that will inevitably occur. The good news is that the more bass traps you have, the less it matters where you place the traps. There are twelve angles in a rectangular room, and all of them are candidates for trapping.
The front low corners are usually the easiest to treat because no one walks there, and you don't lose any space as a result. The idea is to fill them with floor-to-ceiling bass traps. But the eight corners where the walls and ceiling, and walls and floor come together should suffice. The traps don't all have to be the same size since bass is non-directional. As a result, the total surface coverage is more important than symmetry. This is not the case for mid or high frequency absorbers however, where symmetry is important. That being said, it's best if the traps are spread around the room in as many corners as possible.
When acoustic panels are placed strutly in the corners, there's an inherent air gap that makes the trap more effective because it helps their ability to absorb low frequencies. It's even better if you can fill up the space with regular insulation like R13 batts. Thicker panels are always better for corner traps, although lighter weight ones make them easier to hang. Bass traps that extend floor to ceiling work the best, because they maximize the way they absorb low frequencies. You can build bass traps yourself as we've outlined in a previous video. Or you can buy them pre-made from a number of suppliers like Real Traps, Gik-acoustics, Prim-acoustic, Ready-acoustic and MSR acoustics, among others.
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