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Analog Efex Pro, part of the Nik Collection from Google, is focused on adding various film and wet plate effects, enabling you to import a sense of age and a unique look to any digital photo. In this course you'll learn all about the many creative effects you can apply in Analog Efex Pro, such as lens distortion, vignettes, bokeh, and imitated dust and scratches.
If you've selected a preset from the Toy Camera category, under cameras on the left panel in Analog Efex Pro, then you'll find that you have the Lens Distortion section of adjustments available to you over on the right panel. You can also access this set of controls by enabling lens distortion under the Camera Kit option. But in this case, I've selected one of the Toy Camera presets so that we can play with lens distortion, and you can already see here that we have some very obvious distortion in the image.
The lens distortion adjustments essentially help you simulate a cheap lens as would be the case certainly with a toy camera, but also with a variety of other possible lenses. Let's take a look at the set of adjustments that are included under Lens Distortion. To begin with we have a Pincushion versus barrel distortion slider. You can see that at the moment with this preset I have the value all the way to the left. In other words a maximum Pincushion effect but I can also drag that slider in the other direction.
In order to create barrel distortion. So I can shift between Barrel Distortion and Pincushion distortion, or I can leave that value in the middle if I don't want to have any distortion at all. Obviously this can create a rather dramatic effect in the image. It's going to sort of stretch and skew things, warping objects within the image. But that can obviously be an interesting effect as well. I'll go ahead and leave some relatively strong Pincushion distortion in effect for this image.
We can then take a look at the Chromatic Aberration adjustments here. We'll start off by looking at the actual Chromatic Aberration. Chromatic Aberration is essentially a colored halo or colored fringing. Along generally high-contrast areas within the image. It's somewhat common to see Chromatic Aberrations in images with strong contrast and that were photographed with a relatively inexpensive lens, or an especially wide-angle lens. You can see in this case we have some Chromatic Aberrations along the.
Edge of some of the contrast areas. So, along the edge of the sign here. You will notice we have a little bit of a bluish, almost purple color tint. I can change the color of the Chromatic Aberration, using the set of buttons here. We have a red cyan option, as well as a green magenta option, and a yellow blue option. You might notice that each of those are opposite colors. Yellow and blue are opposites, for example, as are green and magenta. And cyan and red. When I've chosen a particular option, I'll go ahead and choose the first button here in order to enable a red cyan shift.
We can then adjust the chromatic shift to determine both the strength and the color being applied, essentially. So if I drag over toward the right, you'll see that I'm increasing the intensity focused on red. So you'll notice that most of the Chromatic Aberrations here are red. With some cyan on opposite sides in certain areas of the photo. If I drag in the opposite direction, I'll essentially just reverse those colors so you can see that now most areas of the image that have Chromatic Aberration show a cyan color fringing whereas some of the opposite sides include that red color.
So, the basic process involves choosing which color you'd like to use for that Chromatic Aberration and then shifting the Chromatic Aberration both to determine the overall strength of the effect, as well as which color will be more dominant within the photo. The specific effect, of course, will vary depending on the contents of the image. You'll generally see the best effect or at least the strongest effect when you have an image that exhibits relatively strong contrast. So, you can continue fine tuning those adjustments, obviously, the aim in this case being to exaggerate.
The relative cheap quality, as it were, for the lens. So we're really trying to simulate a lens that is causing some distortion, some problems in the image. And we can adjust the overall warping of the image, that Pincushion versus Barrel Distortion, as well as the Chromatic Aberrations that are present within the photo.
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