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Up and Running with Magic Bullet Suite

Up and Running with Magic Bullet Suite

with Chad Perkins

 


Are you seeing a gap between your video and the quality of professional productions? Magic Bullet Suite is a collection of high-end plugins that help create significantly more professional footage with tools that do everything from removing noise to performing high-end color grading. In this course, Chad Perkins explains what apps are available in the suite and what they do, and introduces the basic features and workflow of each plugin, with emphasis on the best-selling plugin Magic Bullet Looks and the extremely powerful color grading tool Colorista II.
Topics include:
  • Integrating with After Effects and Premiere Pro
  • Getting common Hollywood styles with Magic Bullet Looks
  • Tweaking Looks presets
  • Creating a Power Mask
  • Using the Looks toolset
  • Performing basic color correction
  • Creating a miniature effect
  • Performing powerful secondary color correction with Colorista II
  • Adjusting skin tones with Cosmo
  • Using Denoiser to salvage (and beautify) noisy footage

show more

author
Chad Perkins
subject
Video, Motion Graphics, Color Correction, Visual Effects
software
After Effects CS6, CC, Magic Bullet Suite
level
Appropriate for all
duration
3h 17m
released
May 07, 2013

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Introduction
The Magic Bullet (MB) Suite
00:00(music playing)
00:04Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome to this training series on the Magic Bullet Suite
00:07by Red Giant Software. My name is Chad Perkins and throughout
00:11this training series, I'll be showing you how to create more stunning video using
00:15the massive arsenal of tools in the Magic Bullet Suite.
00:19We live in an era where almost everyone has a camera, so in order for your
00:22footage to stick out, it's got to look good.
00:25And that's exactly what the Magic Bullet Suite helps you to accomplish.
00:29First up we'll look at the power house in the suite, Magic Bullet Looks.
00:33Looks is a huge collection of presets, color correction tools.
00:38And also special effects, that you can use to beautify and polish your footage.
00:44We'll wrap up our look at Looks by looking at practical applications
00:47including how to color correct a clip from start to finish.
00:51Next we'll look at the very powerful Colorista 2.
00:55We'll use Colorista to do basic color correction as well as more advanced
00:59colored grades. And we'll also be using its powerful
01:03keying functionality to turn a beautiful spring afternoon into a dreary winter morning.
01:09After that will take an in-depth look at how to remove noise with Denoiser.
01:15We'll use Cosmo to smooth out skin tones and make them more beautiful.
01:19We'll look at Mojo to quickly add that cinematic blockbuster look to footage.
01:24And we'll wrap up by looking at transcoding footage with Grinder, using
01:28photo looks on still images in PhotoShop, and more.
01:32Note that for this training I'll be sticking to Adobe After Effects, but you
01:35can follow along in your host application of choice such as Premiere, Final Cut
01:39Pro, or for looks you can use Vegas or Avid, etc, etc.
01:43I really love Red Giant software as a company, and this suite of products is
01:46one of the most popular and powerful plugins out there and you're going to see why.
01:50This is going to be a fun one folks. So let's jump in and learn the ins and
01:55outs of the Magic Bullet Suite.
01:57
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Using the exercise files
00:00 If you have access to the exercise files that accompany this training, then congratulations.
00:05 You're making some wonderful life decisions.
00:07 And I want to take just a second here and explain to you how these exercise files
00:12 are set up. So in the exercise fo, folder you'll find
00:16 a folder for each chapter, and they correspond to the chapters from the training.
00:21 And if you are going to go through chapter four for example, then if you
00:25 open up chapter four, you'll find the project files that go with that training,
00:29 that, that chapter. Now what's really interesting is that
00:34 these project files are mostly base of Aftereffect, that's the host application
00:38 that I use for this training although you could use Final Cut for most of it or
00:41 Premiere for most of it. But the After Effects Project files are
00:45 in these different chapters and these After Effects Project files point to the
00:48 media, in the Media folder. And so if you're looking for extra files
00:52 to play with you'll find them here. I've also included in these folders
00:56 specifically the R3D Stills folder and the Video folder additional videos and
01:01 still images for you to play with. It should also be noted that especially
01:08 with the R3D folders here, R3D Stilsl is in R3D video that these are 4k, 12-bit
01:12 raw files for you to play with. They have tons of latitude, they're great
01:18 for playing around for color correction 'cuz you can push them very far.
01:22 As we'll see later in the training in one of the cases we start with.
01:26 This woman, this footage and then we piece by piece clean it up and turn it
01:32 into that. Whereas if you were to take other clips
01:36 that started out looking like this, you wouldn't be able to make such great
01:40 changes in it. So, that's how the exercise files are
01:44 laid out for this course.
01:45
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1. Magic Bullet Looks Basics
About the Looks host applications
00:00 For most plugins, you get 'em, and they only work for one application.
00:04 But, the Magic Bullet Suite is a little bit different.
00:08 Each application has its own host-applications, in other words,
00:11 applications that those plugins work in, and they're different for every app.
00:15 So, for the big apps, in this suite, we'll be covering, as we cover them,
00:19 we'll cover their host applications. So, you could go and find this yourself
00:23 by going to the Red Giant, software website and find the part that you're
00:27 looking for. And then, you scroll down a little bit,
00:30 and go to Compatibility. Scroll down a little bit, and you'll find
00:35 Host Applications. In our case, for Magic Bullet Looks, that
00:38 we're going to be looking at now, we have Magic Bullet Looks in After Effects,
00:42 which is the client we're going to be using for this training series.
00:46 But also, Premiere Pro, which is great, because the color tools, in Premiere,
00:50 aren't that great. It's also great for After Effects too,
00:53 because even though After Effects has some cool color tools.
00:56 It doesn't have scopes by default, and a lot of other tools that we have through
00:59 looks and the other Magic Bullet applications.
01:03 Final Cut Pro 10, as well as 7 and 6, Apple Motion, Sony Vegas Pro, and Avid
01:07 Media Composer. So, when you purchase Magic Bullet Looks,
01:12 it automatically installs the plugins for all these applications so you have access
01:16 to Looks From all of them. It's really a great deal.
01:21 It also you leverage your learning, so as you learn this for After Effects, for
01:24 example, then as you switch over to Preimer or Final Cut, you have access to
01:27 the same tools and you can use the same knowledge that you've acquired for both.
01:33
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Understanding the MB Looks workflow
00:00 Magic Bullet Looks is a plugin designed to improve the look of your footage.
00:05 Before we dig in and get into the specifics, I want to give you here just a
00:09 little overview of the general workflow in Looks, so that as we discuss the
00:12 individual parts, you see where they fit. So, I'm going to apply Looks to my
00:18 footage, we're here, in Adobe After Effects, and I'm going to go over to the
00:22 Effect controls panel and click the Edit button, that's how, in After Effects, we
00:25 get to this window. We see our footage here, and there's a
00:31 bunch of stuff going on, around this screen.
00:34 Basically, here's the way that Looks thinks, we can change some of the basic
00:39 components of this shot. At least that's the, the paradigm that
00:46 looks uses. So, in other words, we can change things
00:49 about the subject. We can go to the tools on the right side.
00:51 Just have your mouse over the Tools on the right side.
00:54 If you're skilled with your mouse, you could even just kind of put it right
00:57 there on the edge. I have a harder time getting that to work.
01:00 But we have all of these different little exposures.
01:02 These separate tools. That we might use to adjust a subject in
01:07 real life such as a fill light or a spot fill.
01:11 Next we have matte tools that we might put on the matte box of a camera.
01:16 We also have lense tools that would be something that the lense would change on
01:19 the shot. Also camera adjustments, and finally post adjustments.
01:25 And these are processed in order from left to right.
01:27 So for example, if we go to the Subject category we go to Tools.
01:32 There's saturation. We can drag and drop this and we can add
01:35 the saturation to the subject, put it in camera, as if it were a camera setting,
01:39 or put it in post. This little, that's not working.
01:44 There we go. So, you put it in post, or we could come
01:46 down here, to these segments, and put these down here, in the subject, the
01:49 camera, or post. Now, the difference, here, is that if we
01:53 put it in the subject, that all the other adjustments, that we changed, are going
01:57 to be added to the saturated or desaturated adjustment.
02:02 In many cases, it's preferable to add saturation in post at the end of the
02:06 chain, so that we saturate everything that we've done.
02:10 It all depends on what you want to do and what the circumstances of your particular
02:14 situation are calling for. Note that you could also just drag and
02:18 drop these and put these in different places as you want, so it's very flexible.
02:23 Now, another thing you could do, in Looks, is go over to the left side, where
02:26 we have Preset Looks, in different categories.
02:29 So, we have basic categories, in the upper left, this is, if we want to just
02:32 cool this down a little bit, if we want to warm it up, or just add some contrast.
02:37 Or, we can open up Cinematic, is another one of those categories, there's actually
02:41 many categories here. But we can get an action movie look, and
02:45 indie movie look, we can get a zombie movie, a romance movie, this blockbuster.
02:51 Any one of these settings, and everything that we do, everything we add here with
02:55 the presets, completely replaces everything else that we had in our tool
02:58 chain here. It's also completely non-destructive, so
03:04 we could select one of these adjustments and we could make changes as we see fit.
03:10 So nothing is etched in stone, even with the presets.
03:13 Throughout this training series, I'll also be showing you how to create your
03:16 own custom looks. Before accepting your look, you might
03:20 want to go over to the scopes here or maybe the skin graph, these charts, and
03:23 looking at your footage and examine, make sure it falls within accepted standards
03:28 and when you're all done click Finish, and there is your new look.
03:35 Once you close that up and you're back in your host application you can open a
03:38 power mask. And minimize where the effect takes place.
03:43 So I could create a rectangular or elliptical mask, and then that effect
03:46 only shows up in that area. Or outside that area, as it were.
03:52 And we could also feather that. So this allows you to create an infinite
03:56 range of really great looks for your footage.
04:00
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Using Looks presets
00:00 Lets look a little bit more closely at using Looks Presets.
00:03 Let me first explain this project here. I basically have this four k red footage,
00:09 it's actually just a single still image. But it's 4096 by 2160 pixels.
00:17 And it's in a two k composition, so it's scaled down.
00:21 The reason why I want to to show that to you, is because what we're going to see
00:25 with Looks is actually pretty great. It's not going to only apply the effect
00:30 to just what we can see in the comp, it's going to apply it to the whole image
00:34 regardless of the scale settings, or regardless how it's framed in the
00:37 composition, which is really great. So, I applied Looks, now I'll go ahead
00:44 and click the Edit> Looks Editor. And now, we can go over to the left, and
00:48 you can see, that there's this huge tree here, we didn't see any of that tree in
00:51 the After Effects window there. And now, we can see the whole entire
00:56 shot, which is, again, really great for grading, because if you decide, later on,
00:59 to move this shot, It will already be graded and it will already be in a way
01:01 that's predictable because you'll know what it's going to look like.
01:06 Now I'm going to go over to the left hand side here again and we have again these presets.
01:10 We have the basic presets which do very basic things, just cool it, warm it,
01:15 Contrast, Sharpen. And often times you want to go in and
01:19 maybe apply this preset. And then go into lets say for example
01:23 Warm and Cool. I'll click on that adjustment.
01:26 That tool. And then we'll go over to the, over to
01:29 the controls in the upper right hand corner.
01:31 And then we can dial that back a little bit.
01:33 We might want to take down the warmth and increase the coolness a little bit more.
01:40 So it's not as warm. We also might want to take down the tint level.
01:45 So each of the tools will have different parameters that you can use to adjust
01:49 your footage. I often like to think of these presets as
01:53 kind of jumping-off the points, ways to get started.
01:56 Remember that as you change another preset here as we click another look.
02:01 It's going to completely replace everything that was there before it.
02:06 So that, when you click on a preset, let's say Romance for example.
02:10 Everything that's here from this Indie preset is going to be completely gone
02:14 when we click the Romance preset. That could be a rude awakening, of you're
02:18 not ready for it, so be aware of that. Now I'm going to click on one of these
02:22 that's kind of hardcore, let's say the Mexicali Preset, really harsh, really
02:26 strong, as its intended to be but, it's still kind of overkill, as I find a lot
02:29 of these looks are. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to
02:34 do something different here, I'm going to click Finished.
02:37 And what I'm going to do is, come down here to the Composition panel.
02:40 I'm going to right click, Choose New adjustment layer, what I'm going to do
02:45 is, I'm going to click on Looks, on the layer that I applied looks to, I'm going
02:51 to press Cmd+x on the Mac or Ctrl+x on the PC, to cut that.
02:59 Select the adjustment layer, press Cmd+v on the Mac or Ctrl+v to paste that effect
03:04 with the adjustment layer selected. And now that it's on an adjustment layer,
03:10 I can do all kinds of cool stuff to it. I can change the blend mode to let's say
03:15 soft light maybe. Let's take that back to normal.
03:19 I can also press the letter t to open up the opacity for that adjustment layer,
03:23 and I can dial it down by taking down the opacity until I get a better effect.
03:30 In some host clients, such as Final Cutt Pro 7.
03:33 There will be a mix slider and you can actually dial back the look, or the
03:36 strength of a look, using the mix slider. That's an amazing feature that I really
03:41 wish were universal through all the host applications, but it's, it's not unfortunately.
03:46 But this little work around with the adjustment layer does definitely help the
03:51 flexibility of looks quite a bit. Now another thing its kind of cool is if
03:56 we go over to the Red Giant website, its redgiantsofware.com and I'm on the Magic
04:00 Bullet Looks page and I'm going to scroll down little bit because actually a
04:04 presets tab here as this explain the features and all I can stuff, all as
04:08 marketing stuff, click on Presets and its this really nice gallery of what the
04:12 presets look like. And the categories are up here at the top.
04:20 So I can click on emulation, and then now here's all of the emulation presets for example.
04:26 And I could mouse over this and actually see video footage of what this looks like
04:30 playing back. Is a negative, color reversal old style.
04:38 As we browse through those presets and really see what they're doing without
04:42 having to manually click and apply all of them.
04:45 The help files that ship with Magic Bullet Looks also contain a gallery of
04:49 the presets. So again, Looks are a great way to jump
04:53 in and get started with Magic Bullet Looks.
04:56 I find them to be a little bit overkill. But they are great jumping off points and
05:01 they really help if if your using an adjustment layer in after effects or in
05:05 premier or if your using that mix slider.
05:09
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Previewing before and after
00:00 In this tutorial, we're going to look at previewing before and after.
00:04 Now, we're going to learn a few little shortcuts and tricks along the way, it's
00:07 pretty cool. So, I have here this clip, and I've
00:09 applied some Magic Bullet Looks, and I've intentionally ruined the footage and made
00:13 it look terrible, so we have to go play detective and figure out what's going so.
00:17 So, let's go ahead and click on Edit, we'll make sure this layer's selected, we
00:21 can see its effect controls here. Click the Edit button to open up the
00:25 Magic Bullet Looks window. And we have here a series of tools that
00:28 we've applied to this footage to get this look.
00:32 And one of these things is messing up our footage.
00:35 Now what we can do, is we could go to the little power icon for each of the tools,
00:39 and turn it off and on. I'll turn off the vignette and turn on
00:44 the vignette. This is great for previewing, seeing
00:47 before and afters, and as we go to saturation we realize, you know what,
00:51 this is the culprit, it looks terrible. So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to
00:56 click and drag on this tool, this Saturation tool.
01:00 And note that it's not Ranged Saturation in the post section.
01:04 It's the regular Saturation in the camera section, there use to be a little trash
01:07 can icon, where you just drag and drop and drop and throw stuff away there's,
01:10 that doesn't I guess anymore. So, we're going to have to grab the tool
01:15 and drag down, as long as you can see a little cursor there, like in a camera
01:18 section and in the post section. that's not going to work, its not
01:22 going to delete, its going to move it which is actually pretty cool, that you
01:25 can move things around like that well we want to delete this tool.
01:29 So, I'm going to drag and drop down to the bottom of the icon.
01:32 There's nothing that tells you you're throwing it away.
01:34 You just kind of have to have faith and just let go.
01:36 So I put this here and then that effect is deleted.
01:41 Now we still have a lot of stuff going on here.
01:43 We still have the Diffusion, the Vignette, all of these settings over here.
01:46 And what if we want to preview this look before and after.
01:50 We could do this, come over here to the bottom left hand corner to the Tool Chain
01:53 area, and click the Power for the whole entire Tool Chain.
01:56 This shows you the original footage, and then you can see before, and after.
02:02 Now another thing you could do is use the keyboard shortcut.
02:04 This is the Backslash key, which is right above the Return key or the Enter key on
02:08 your keyboard. So, as I press the Backslash key, it's
02:12 like it pushes the Tool Chain power on and off button, note that it's not a toggle.
02:17 So, as you're holding the button, it's going to freak out, and go back and forth
02:20 really fast, so you just press it once to turn it off, push it once again to turn
02:23 it back on. Magic Bullet Looks makes it as easy as
02:28 possible to preview before and after, with individual tools and the entire Tool
02:32 Chain itself.
02:34
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Tweaking Looks presets
00:00 Let's look a little bit more closely at how to customize and tweak, Looks Presets.
00:06 I have this footage here, this dude, looking all serious and angry and stuff
00:10 and go over to Looks, click on Edit, open up that Magic Bullet Looks window.
00:16 Let's go over to our looks on the left hand side.
00:19 And in the Diffusion and Light area, go ahead and click on Halogen.
00:23 Now, this preset, wasn't really meant for this type of footage, as you can tell, it
00:27 doesn't really look all that great. But, we're going to have here, an
00:31 introduction into the different tools, and ways that you can adjust that.
00:36 So, we have, here, a Spot Exposure, so this is just kind of, like a windowed
00:40 area, that just kind of makes this bright streak across the middle.
00:45 We also have this Haze/Flare. Which brightens highlights.
00:50 Looks pretty cool. We also have this Pop, which tightens
00:53 things up a little bit. It's what they call local contrast.
00:56 That's kind of like sharpening. And then we also have Auto Shoulder which
01:00 basically, rolls off the highlights, so that they don't blow out.
01:04 So I like the way that Auto Shoulder looks and this is what I typically do
01:08 when I apply a look. If there's something that's good or not
01:11 that great, what I'll do is I'll go through and I'll just turn on and off,
01:14 each of these individual adjustments in the Tool Chain.
01:18 And just kind of adjust it and see what I want to do differently.
01:21 I don't think in this case that Pop is bringing in anything to the table.
01:25 So I'm just go ahead and click on Pop. Drag it down to the bottom here, to the
01:29 imaginary trash can let go to get rid of it and now we have Spot Exposure,
01:32 Haze/Flare and Auto Shoulder. Auto Shoulder is just great.
01:36 I don't want to fiddle with that at all, so I'm just going to leave that alone.
01:39 I do want to play with Spot Exposure and the Haze/Flare.
01:42 So I'm going to click on Spot Exposure, and we have here the, the area that it's
01:46 going to be in, and that's. That's fine.
01:50 And let's go over here to Spot Exposure on the right where we have our controls.
01:54 Once we select one of the tools, we get the controls in the upper right we can adjust.
01:59 So I want to adjust the stops. The exposure here, it's adding 2.2 stops
02:02 of exposure right to the middle. I, I really don't like that, so I'm
02:06 going to click on the number here and just drag it to the left.
02:10 Just like you would do in After Effects or other programs that you adjust that way.
02:14 And I'm going to take this more like to 1 or a little bit around there, maybe 1.1.
02:20 Now that does look a little bit to bright, but it will look better when I go
02:23 to Haze/Flare and make some adjustments here.
02:26 Now one of the things I can do. Is increase maybe the spillage.
02:30 Oh, and now we're getting some cool like, streaky lens flares, I like it.
02:36 And then we could also maybe increase the exposure of those.
02:39 That's definitely a really stylized look, but it kind of looks like there's flares
02:42 coming in from some blinds on the side or maybe something like that.
02:47 You could also adjust the Matte Box Shade.
02:50 So if we want that to go all the way at the edges, we could take Matte Box Shade
02:53 down to zero. As we increase this you'll see that we
02:56 get more of a, kind of an outer edge vignetting effect.
03:00 It looks like an old TV there. Let's just take this down to zero, it
03:03 goes all the way to the edges. You also go over here to the Tint Color,
03:07 and maybe make this more of. a tungsten looking light.
03:12 Something like that. I actually prefer the other way better,
03:16 the original blue. So, I'm just going to hit Cmd+Z on the
03:19 Mac, or Ctrl+Z on the PC, to undo that. Which you can actually undo in Looks, fantastic.
03:25 I can make this brighter or darker by clicking along this.
03:29 White to black gradient along the edge here, so I could make it brighter, or I
03:31 could make it darker. Dial that back in.
03:35 And now, I have my own custom look, that looks very different than what we had
03:39 initially, because we were able to go in and tweak these parameters manually.
03:45 Again, I know I've said it before but a lot of these looks are really overkill
03:50 but they do provide you a great starting place.
03:55 Then you can just click on one of these like we did and really just customize it
03:58 to whatever you like.
04:01
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Saving custom looks
00:00 In the last tutorial, we spent sometime setting up this custom preset, the flare
00:04 and everything here. But now I want to save it so in case I
00:08 want to re use it, such as this other clip that's pretty much from the same
00:11 scene, or at least from a similar scene, I can just go ahead and apply that cause
00:14 it's already made. So what I want to do is select the
00:20 original shot layer, and edit the looks. Now this is actually a little bit more
00:26 tricky than you think it would be. If you go to File > Export Look As, it
00:31 will create a look file for you. It will create a .nblook file, and you'll
00:38 find this file actually in the chapter 2 folder of the exercise files.
00:43 But the problem is, is that it doesn't really open those files very well.
00:48 It doesn't open up the .nblook files. It kind of saves them.
00:52 And it will not allow you to bring them back in, without going through some crazy steps.
00:57 You actually have to go in And on a Mac you have to put it in this directory
01:00 library application support looks builder looks, on a PC you've to put it in this
01:05 directory, program files looks builder looks and then looks will automatically
01:09 read them from that directory. Now that's if you do it then not super
01:17 efficient way. The easiest way to do this.
01:22 Is actually to click at the look name here, actually double click and I'll call
01:26 this Blue Streax. And then I hit Enter, I'll go into my
01:31 Looks and now you see, my blue streaks looks preset here, that I could use again
01:35 at anytime and I don't have to worry about moving the MB Look file around or
01:40 any of that mumbo-jumbo. I'm just going to close that up, click
01:46 Cancel, and I'm going to turn off the visibility of the original Shot layer,
01:49 select the untouched layer, turn on its visibility.
01:53 I've gone ahead and applied looks for you, but I haven't done anything to it.
01:57 So, I'm going to click the Edit button, here, and I'm going to go over to my Looks.
02:03 Turn on Custom, or open up Custom and then I can click Blue Streaks and then
02:06 the same preset with all of our settings that we created last time are now here.
02:12 So again, there's several ways to save your work in Looks, but going and just
02:17 renaming the Look is actually, probably the most efficient way.
02:22
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Creating a power mask
00:00 Sometimes, you won't want looks to apply to all of your footage.
00:05 Now you could mask it out, if the adjustment was on a separate layer, if
00:08 you mask it out now, it's going to mask out the original content of the layer and
00:12 the look, which is probably not what you want.
00:16 So, Looks has this great feature called Power Masks, which just sounds really
00:20 cool, Power Masks. And what you can do is add a Power Masks
00:25 to limit where this adjustment shows up. So, in this footage we have this really
00:30 buttery, romantic look that covers the whole entire image in Diffusion.
00:36 And it's obviously way over, over kill, highly stylized.
00:40 But we can make this a little bit more believable if we add a Power Masks.
00:44 So I'm going to change the masks drop down in the Power Masks section, from
00:48 None to, let's say, Ellipse. And this will create an elliptical masks.
00:53 And that way we can put the masks only where our actress is and remove the
00:57 effect where our actress is. Now this is the exact opposite.
01:01 So, what we need to do is come down to the bottom of Power Masks, the option
01:03 Invert Masks and check that. So, everything that was blurry is now
01:08 clear and vice versa. We can click on the edges here to resize
01:14 the size of the window here. We can also use these Effect Control
01:20 Points, which control the top, and bottom of this area here, this Power Masks.
01:29 And of course we could increase the Feather size.
01:31 I'm going to take this all the way up to 100, so we have a nice soft feather here.
01:34 And then I'll actually take down the Radius, which I can control with just the
01:38 Radius slider here. And I might want to bring that up, and
01:43 just adjust the top there. And so now we have, just a really soft
01:49 feathered masks, let me go ahead and just click in a blank area here to deselect that.
01:54 And now we have a fate masks there, and we could see her a little bit more clearly.
01:59 And so the whole thing seems very flash backy or very dreamy.
02:04 But we still can see our actress a little bit better.
02:07 Let's compare and contrast that the masks, let's take this to none.
02:10 So, this is before and so she's totally wiped out there we can't see her at all.
02:14 She almost doesn't even seem like the focus.
02:16 As we take this back to Ellipse, and we get our masks back, we can really see
02:20 that, we have the space now where we can see her more clearly.
02:26 Now as we'll look at later, in Colorista II, also in the Magic Bullet Suite, in
02:31 the secondary section as you apply secondary corrections, you can apply a
02:35 Power Masks to the secondary color correction.
02:40 We'll talk about what secondary color corrections are, and why'd you want to
02:43 power mask those out. But that's really helpful, and it's the
02:46 same exact controls, as you can see here. So, just remember that Power Masks are a
02:51 great way to limit your corrects in Looks to a specific area.
02:57
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Utilizing the scopes
00:00 I just love using After Effects for color Work.
00:03 The tools here are phenomenal. But one of the big drawbacks it doesn't
00:06 have any scopes. Doesn't have any chart to let you know
00:09 how how your colors are actually doing. And because monitors can be so different,
00:14 especially when they're not calibrated properly, and it's really hard to get
00:18 them calibrated properly, and because our eyes play such tricks on us sometimes, we
00:22 really need absolutes. We need to know where our colors really are.
00:28 Thankfully if we select the Scopes layer here, go to Looks>Edit to get into the
00:31 Looks window, we'll see, that in the upper left-hand corner, that Looks does
00:35 have a collection of Scopes for us to use, so we can look and see what's going
00:39 on with our colors. So, again, we just want to click that
00:45 Scopes button, if it's not showing, in the upper left-hand corner, get those
00:48 Scopes showing. Let's talk a little bit about the Scopes,
00:51 and how they work. I''m actually going to close up RGB
00:54 Parade and open up the Slice graph momentarily.
00:57 The Slice Graph, shows you what's called a Waveform Monitor, at least a version of
01:02 a Waveform Monitor represented in each of the color channels.
01:06 Now the way Waveform Monitor works is it gives you a read out of the amount of
01:10 color in a channel from left to right across your image.
01:15 So in other words as we see this big bright highlights here on the far left side.
01:19 We see a little spike, especially in the red channel, these are very warm
01:22 highlights, so it makes sense that red is the highest point here, and then we have
01:26 her body which is mostly dark, and so we have a little dip here.
01:31 And then we have a brighter light here, which corresponds to this bright point
01:35 here, and so forth. Now looking at this chart, I realize that
01:39 the brightest point in the image is over here on the far right.
01:43 I wouldn't have realized that, but as I look at the graph, I see that that is
01:46 indeed the case. Now if I close up Slice Graph and open up
01:50 RGB Parade, this is actually a little bit more clear to see because this is
01:54 actually showing you all of the color information, not just kind of a single
01:58 line representation and it's, it's separated into different color channels
02:02 so we see the red, the green and the blue independently.
02:09 This zero line is pure black and this 1.0 line where the arrow is is considered to
02:13 be pure white, in other words it is the brightest.
02:18 Acceptable range that you should be having highlights.
02:21 As I look at this I see that there is a crushing of the blacks in the green
02:25 channel right here. Just a little small tip right here.
02:30 And then I also see that there are some blown out red highlights all throughout
02:34 the image. So what we could do is go down to my
02:37 Adjustments here. I can turn them on and off and see where
02:41 the problems are. Now it looks like the Color Ranges tool,
02:46 that I have here in my chain, is the thing that's making these reds blow out
02:51 so much. It is a nice effect.
02:55 I like it. But it does create some, some ugliness.
03:00 So what I can do is with Color Ranges selected, I go down over to Strength
03:04 here, and I could just tone that down maybe, just tone it down a little bit
03:08 until those values are about safe. If they peak a little bit, especially
03:15 with these highlights it's going to be okay.
03:18 Now this is going for broadcast, I'd probably that that's not okay, and that
03:21 needs to be fixed. But because this is just going for the
03:24 web, and maybe film, then I think that's going to be acceptable.
03:28 Also, we can see here, that we really don't have too much shadow details.
03:32 I mentioned we have a little bit of shadows here in the green.
03:35 But this really is really washed out here for the shadows.
03:39 This looks cool in this case but, you might be aware that it might look very
03:41 washed out if you were to play this on the big screen.
03:45 If we select Curves for example, go over the RGB section here and then click on
03:50 this lower point. And drag this down, you could see that
03:55 those shadows are now getting closer to black.
03:59 Now I don't like this look as much. So I might want to dial that back just a
04:04 little bit here, and not quite have pure black.
04:06 I kind of like this ethereal look, but maybe giving a little bit more crunch to
04:10 the blacks will work here. Now, a couple of other interesting graphs here.
04:15 We have hue saturation, which kind of looks like a looks like a vector scale.
04:19 So we have a representation of the color wheel here, and this area right here,
04:23 this line, is where human skin tone lie. And we can see that we have some crushing.
04:30 Of those tones here. And again, as we go back go Color Ranges,
04:35 and as we dial this down, you can see the effect that that has.
04:40 So as we increase saturation, these values you'll notice go farther towards
04:44 the edge. And as they are, kind of, right along the
04:47 edge, flat along the edge, you can see that we've kind of crushed some of our
04:50 colors, and we need to dial that back. So, from a brightest perspective, we were
04:55 okay, but from a saturation perspective, we were still blown out a little bit, so
04:58 might want to just turn that effect off all together.
05:02 Now, similar to Hue Saturation, is Hue Lightness, so this has all the colors on
05:06 the color wheel from left to right, and brightness, from bottom to top.
05:12 I honestly don't use this graph, very often, I prefer the RGB Parade, which has
05:15 similar data, just not about color. So, I probably use Hue Saturation and RGB
05:20 Parade, in conjunction with each other. Rather than Hue Lightness.
05:24 Now, this one is interesting, Memory Colors.
05:26 Memory Colors are something in the color correction world which refer to colors
05:30 that the human eye just recognizes, the blue of a sky, the green of grass or
05:34 trees, definitely skin tones, they're colors that we just kind of recognize,
05:38 and instinctively know. And, we want to make sure then, because
05:43 our eye know them, that when we see trees and water and grass and skin.
05:48 That it's all within the acceptable range.
05:51 So the fact that we have some skin tone here.
05:54 And we can't see any skin in this chart is a bad sign.
05:58 We don't have any memory colors. There's no memory colors for bottles and curtains.
06:03 So we don't have to worry about that. Lets go ahead and click Cancel here.
06:07 And then let's go ahead and turn off the Scopes Layer, turn on the Skin Layer.
06:11 We have another example. I'm going to go ahead and click Edit here.
06:15 Now this image looks great to me, I think it looks pretty good, decently with my eyes.
06:20 Maybe where you're from, looking at doesn't look that great but as I click on
06:24 Curves we can adjust this Curve a little bit more.
06:29 And it seems like, if we even just maybe darken those mid-tones a little bit, it
06:33 seems like this is a believable skin tone, but our memory colors say no, there
06:37 is no skin tone that we're seeing. Also, we can click on this Skin Graph
06:44 here, which shows us with a little orange grid.
06:49 Where Skin tones are and right now it's saying that there aren't any acceptable
06:53 Skin tones. Now let's open up Hue Saturation and see
06:57 that they are too kind of maroon a little bit.
07:02 So maybe let's to to the blue channel and maybe play with the blue.
07:06 As we Increase the blue, we're kind of getting a little bit farther away.
07:11 So we might want to take some blue out of the shot.
07:15 So as I click and reduce these points, we're getting a little bit closer to
07:20 having her skin tone be correct. Let's maybe play with the green channel a
07:26 little bit. As we Increase the green.
07:30 Looks like we're getting a little bit closer here.
07:32 Again, I'm keeping track of this little here.
07:35 I want this to be on this line here, where the skin tones are.
07:39 And as I'm playing with this, a little bit more.
07:43 We're starting to see a little patch of orange here.
07:46 That means that that area is kind of coming into harmony with where skin tones
07:51 should be. And, maybe i should, now, go back and add
07:57 some red, here. And we've almost got it.
08:05 And, we're definitely adding in some, some red, here.
08:08 Kind of losing the skin scope here but we're definitely getting closer so if I
08:13 hit the back slash key on the keyboard I could see the before, which also shows no
08:18 skin tone and then to after. So we're getting there, at least for
08:24 certain locals so they we were before. So we wa/g, want to just go back and keep
08:28 doing a little bit more of what we're doing.
08:31 Where we're adding more green and ironically even though green is not
08:34 something that I would think of typically adding to skin tones, it's green is the
08:39 missing component here and now this is more in line with where her skin should be.
08:46 You could also see now in the Memory Colors that these colors are now showing
08:49 up a little more clearly letting us know that we're getting closer to those tones
08:52 there as well. Even subtract a little bit more blue.
08:58 Now we're getting skin tone everywhere. But you can start to see flesh tones show
09:02 up in the memory colors, and it's about on that line for hue saturation.
09:07 And it's showing up in the graph with the skin.
09:09 I'll just turn all that off. And no we have a much more believable
09:12 skin tone than we started out with. So again the human eye can be deceiving,
09:18 what you think looks right might not actually be right.
09:22 So these are kind of the standards that help you to know if your colors are
09:26 actually correct or if your eyes are playing tricks on you.
09:30
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2. A Tour of the Looks Tools
Using the Subject tools
00:00 All right, let's go ahead and open up Looks here, the Looks interface.
00:04 And as we go over to the tools, we see that we have these five different
00:07 categories and tons of effects. And for new users, this is often very
00:12 overwhelming, it certainly was for me. To complicate things, when you apply one
00:17 of these tools to your footage, there's tons of controls.
00:20 It can be certainly overwhelming. So what we're going to do in this chapter
00:24 is to kind of just browse through these different tools in these different categories.
00:30 And I'm going to show you my favorites and we're also going to learn a little
00:33 bit about the way that these tools kind of think, some kind of common parameters,
00:36 and other things that you'll bump into as you work.
00:40 In this tutorial we're going to focus on the, oops, we're going to focus on the
00:44 Subject tools here. So in other words, these are things that
00:47 might mimic what you would change on a subject if you were shooting a subject.
00:52 Now, one of the cool things about these five different tools categories is that
00:56 if you scroll all the way down, we'll see presets.
01:00 They're kind of like quick tools. They're quick versions, or settings of
01:04 tools in this category. For example, Exposure is the first tool
01:08 in the tools category. And, as we scroll down, we'll have this
01:11 little divider line here. And then we have minus 1 stop or plus 1
01:15 stop, so it's like a custom Exposure tool.
01:19 So, if you know I just want this a little bit darker, you can drag and drop this
01:22 tool, and actually you could just double-click a tool to apply it in that spot.
01:28 So there goes. It, it just takes away one stop of
01:29 exposure automatically we don't have to think about it.
01:33 Now, if we want to delete this, we can drag it down like we've done or you can
01:35 also hit the Delete key on your keyboard to get rid of it when it's selected.
01:40 Another thing that's important to know if you go back to our tools here is that a
01:43 lot of these effects kind of mimic each other.
01:45 They're constantly improving looks and so they'll add new versions of an old effect.
01:51 And so some of them are kind of limiting, some of them are better than others.
01:53 And a lot of them do similar things. For example, Color use a 3-way and Color
01:57 Ranges, you can see here they adjust shadows, mid-tones and highlights.
02:02 It's a great, very informative icon. And as we apply them, let's just go ahead
02:05 and double-click Colorista 3-way and then go back and double-click Color Ranges.
02:09 They do appear to be very similar, Colorista 3-way and Color Ranges.
02:14 But there is a subtle difference here in Color Ranges.
02:17 But, before we get to Color Ranges, I'm just going to go ahead and delete it for
02:20 right now, go back to Colorista 3-way. Let's talk about this Color Gizmo, we see
02:24 this all over the place and there's just a bunch of stuff going on here, so let's
02:27 just talk about what this is. So, what, this allows you to adjust
02:32 everything you can about color from this interface.
02:36 So in other words, let's go to the mid, the mid tones.
02:38 It's a little bit easier to see. This outer ring on the right side, this
02:41 black to white gradient, represents the brightness of the mid tones for example,
02:44 or the highlights, or the shadows depending on where we are.
02:49 So if you click on this line here and we drag our mouse up, or down, we are
02:53 brightening or darkening the mid-tones. This wheel, in the center here, this
02:59 Color icon, controls both the hue, the color family, and also, the saturation.
03:05 By default, it's set to nothing. So, as we drag it, let's say, for
03:09 example, we want to cool this image down, as I drag it, over to the blues, we start
03:13 to see a little bit of a blue tint come into our mid-tones.
03:18 As we drag this little puck around this wheel, we'll change the color tone.
03:24 And, as we drag it into the center more, we'll desaturate the amount of color added.
03:29 And, as we towards the outside, we'll increase the amount of color added, in
03:32 other words, we'll saturate it. Now, that's one way to adjust hue and saturation.
03:38 Another way is to just grab this little puck that follows around the center white
03:42 puck and grab that and just drag it to whatever color you want.
03:47 It's not as sensitive so it's good to kind of rough out what you want.
03:51 So let's say we wanted a warm color tint. We kind of get in the right neck of the woods.
03:55 And then we can go kind of fine tune it with this little circle here.
04:00 We could also control the saturation by this slider on the left.
04:03 Just click and drag up and down. So, now that we know how to work the
04:07 Color Wheel gizmo thing, I'm going to go ahead and click Reset here, and play with
04:10 the shadows, mid-tones and highlights. I want to warm up the highlights here.
04:16 Actually, it's a better idea to start with the shadows.
04:19 So, I'll break from that. Start with the shadows, I'm going to go
04:23 down, and I'm going to cool off these shadows.
04:27 And I'm also going to click and drag on the right hand side here, and darken this
04:30 a little bit. And maybe cool off the mid tones, just
04:34 click and drag. Just a little bit, cool off the mid tones.
04:39 And now, I could go back up to the highlights.
04:40 Oftentimes, when you're doing color correction, it's kind of what you want to do.
04:43 You want to maybe push and pull the highlights and the shadows away from each
04:46 other on the color wheel, so if we have cool shadows having warm highlights can
04:50 be a great contrast. So it looks pretty good.
04:53 We could dial back the whole adjustment effect if we want, by taking down the
04:56 strength slider. I'll leave that set to 100 for right now.
04:59 You could also use the Backslash key as we talked about before to turn off all
05:02 the adjustments, to see the before, and the after.
05:05 It looks pretty cool, there's some other things I would change but I think that
05:09 what's wrong here what I don't like, is that there's a lot of the dark mid-tones
05:13 that are also picking up this blue adjustment.
05:17 And so I wish that It didn't consider so much stuff to be shadows.
05:22 I wish the shadows were a little bit more limited to just the, the most dark areas.
05:27 So what I'm going to do is I'm going to select Colorista 3-way.
05:30 Delete it, and go to tools. I'm going to apply color ranges.
05:33 because it's basically the exact same thing as Colorista 3-way.
05:36 Except that it does allow you to limit where the colors fall.
05:40 So let's try that again. And if my, explanation doesn't really
05:43 make too much sense, we'll see it in action, and it'll be a little bit more clear.
05:47 So, I'm going to adjust the shadows, darken those up a bit, darken those up alot.
05:54 And then, I'll also, maybe cooled off the mid-tones a little bit, and I'll, also,
05:58 warm up the highlights. Here.
06:03 Now it's interesting. You see we did the exact same adjustment,
06:06 and we don't have the same look exactly. So I might want to darken my shadows a
06:11 little bit more and bump up the saturation of the blue in the shadows.
06:17 Might want to move that around a little bit.
06:20 But really where I'm having trouble is now its the opposite problem.
06:23 A lot of these mid tones should be shadows and its not really picking up.
06:27 Well that's where this threshold really comes in handy.
06:29 So if I increase the shadow threshold. It's going to make more of the mid tones
06:34 turn into shadows. And you see if I keep going too far, even
06:38 the highlights get darkened. So it allows you to control the limits,
06:42 of what are highlights, what are mid tones, and what are shadows.
06:48 Now, before going further I just want to make this look a little bit better, so
06:51 I'm going to increase the saturation of the mid tones, a little bit more blue
06:55 there and I can also increase the saturation of our warm highlights.
07:01 Maybe we'll adjust what is defined as a highlight so we get less of the warm highlight.
07:08 We also play with the mid tone threshold until we get this looking the way that we
07:13 want here. And there we have the before and the after.
07:20 I want to brighten those highlights just a little bit.
07:22 Again, it's always good to get your shadows and highlights done first before
07:26 you adjust everything else. And I didn't do that, so that kind of
07:30 through me off a little bit. So, I'll take down the saturation of this
07:34 warm highlight, and now I'm pretty happy with that.
07:38 Now, let's look at a couple other tools here, in the Subject category.
07:41 We have, two effects, here, Spot Fill and Spot Exposure, and they both have similar
07:46 gizmos and seem similar. But as we apply Spot Fill, we can see
07:52 that we are adding a fill light, let me increase the fill a little bit, in just
07:57 this range. And there's this Feather setting here.
08:02 I find that I don't use this as often because it just basically, it's like
08:06 adding a fill light where it's just basically turning everything to gray and
08:09 washing everything out. I don't find that to be as handy.
08:13 But there is Spot Exposure, which seems similar.
08:18 But as we increase the exposure, you see that it looks a much more natural and organic.
08:23 So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to reset this.
08:25 And actually, I want to take down the stuff.
08:27 I actually want to darken this. I'm going to over-correct intentionally.
08:30 So, that as I position this, I can see what's happening.
08:33 I can re-size this. And I can see also, that my feathered
08:37 area is adjusted automatically but I can control my feathering independently.
08:43 Might want to take that down and then increase the size, would be nice, soft
08:48 fall off here. And now, that I have my area where I want
08:52 it to be. I'm going to be, basically darkening this
08:55 background area, so that the tractor pops a little bit.
08:58 I'm going to reset the Stops, and now, I'll take this down in a much more
09:02 controlled way, probably 7 10ths of a stop, somewhere around there.
09:07 And now, as we zoom back in, and click away from the Spot Exposure and deselect it.
09:12 We can see, that we have darkened this background, here's the before,
09:16 everything's kind of wash out and the after.
09:19 Still might go through back to Color Ranges, maybe brighten just the mid tones
09:23 a little bit, just to increase that contrast.
09:27 See the before and the after, okay, much better.
09:31 Now, a couple of these tools, or a few of them, I should say, throughout these five
09:34 categories, do really interesting things. Sometimes even damage your footage
09:39 intentionally, like Chromatic Aberration, in this Subject category.
09:42 I'm going to double-click, to apply that. And, what this does, is that it creates a
09:46 chromatic aberration, it basically separates the channels, creating this
09:50 cool effect. We can separate green and magenta, and
09:54 you can see a little bit of Green and the magenta, chromatic aberration there.
09:58 Just reset that. There's also, blue and yellow, which in
10:02 this case, doesn't look super blue or yellow, it looks kind of gray.
10:07 But, the real thing, here, is red and cyan, that's probably the most common
10:10 look when we're talking about Chromatic Aberration.
10:14 This is what they see, what you get in a 3D movie when you take off your glasses.
10:18 You have this look, also old films tends to have more of a red cyan-ish separation
10:23 in its chromatic aberration. And it just kind of has this vintage,
10:28 damaged film look that's pretty awesome. So this is not really an effect
10:33 necessarily we think of, when we think of looks typically.
10:36 We don't, this is not a prettying effect. It's not making our footage more beautiful.
10:40 But it is a really cool effect that might be challenging to achieve otherwise.
10:44 So, there's a lot of effects that we'll be looking at throughout this chapter
10:47 like that, that you might not expect out of Looks.
10:49
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Using the Matte tools
00:00Let's go ahead and open up the Looks Interface and we have our tractor footage here.
00:06In this tutorial, we're going to look at the Matte Tools in the Matte section.
00:12Now, these mimic tools that you might use on a Matte Box on a camera.
00:17On a camera's Matte Box, there's usually slots on the top, where you could insert
00:21Filters that will do things like change the color of the shot.
00:25It will, maybe if you have a Neutral Density Filter, it will lower the
00:28Exposure and sometimes these are graduated so that they might be bright on
00:31top, dark on the bottom or vice versa. And, there's a lot of different tricks
00:37you can do and so these tools here, mimic those effects.
00:41Now, let's start with Grad Exposure. I'm going to go ahead and Double Click that.
00:45That applies Grad Exposure, which by default does nothing, but it exposes us
00:50to this little gizmo here, that's basically Look's way of having a Gradient.
00:56This is a really simple tool for adjusting a Gradient, very handy.
01:00So for example, this sky looks a little grey and dull, and it's obviously a very
01:03sunny day here. So, what we could do is Increase the
01:07Stops to Increase the Grad Exposure. I'll go crazy here just so you can see
01:11what's going on. And it's actually graduating, or creating
01:15a Gradient with the Exposure. So it's bright on the top and then it
01:19fades out. As we grab this, the bottom of this
01:23gizmo, we can control the Gradient. See that there?
01:27Now you'll notice that there's not really a way, at least that I've seen, in order
01:31to keep things constrained, so it's straight up and down.
01:35And if you go off even just a little bit to the left or right, you create this
01:38tilted thing, where it's still a Gradient, but it's from an angle.
01:43You might want that you probably won't though.
01:46I usually typically don't like that. So another way to do this, is by going up
01:50to the Values here, and we could Double Click so our x value is off from our top
01:53into bottom, so we just Type in Zero to make those x values line up.
01:59And then we can adjust the y values by Clicking and Dragging left and right.
02:05I'll leave that set down here at the bottom.
02:06I'll go ahead and Reset just the Stops Value, and we could increase it to
02:10something a little bit more normal, maybe half a Stop.
02:14Just a little bit brighter of a sky. Again, using the Backslash Key on the
02:17keyboard, we could see the before, and the after.
02:20It's a little bit better. I'm going to turn this Off for now, and
02:23go back over to the Matte Tools, and I'm going to Double Click to Add a Sky Filter.
02:28Now, this Filter, it attempts to create a, kind of a sky tint to the whole image.
02:35It could also be used to Add Color to a blown out white sky, for example.
02:39One of the biggest problems that you have on set is trying to get the weather to do
02:42exactly what you want, it often doesn't quite work out.
02:46Maybe you have a blown out ugly sky, maybe you have a grey sky and you want
02:49some color there. Or whatever, and you just kind of want a
02:53little bit more color in the image and I think Sky Filter attempts to do that.
02:56And it doesn't look super believable initially, so we could play with the
02:59tint, and we could make this warm if we want to or push this in different directions.
03:05I'm might want to take this down a little bit more blue there, and then we also
03:08have the Strength and we also have Exposure Compensation, so we can make
03:11everything a little bit brighter or a little bit darker.
03:16And there's other ways to get a, a good sky in Looks.
03:19So I actually would say avoid Sky Filter, but I'm showing it to you because
03:22sometime, sometimes, these Looks, these Tools can be used in, in different ways.
03:28So, I'm going to Click Reset, and I'll take the Tint back to give this more of
03:31a, a blueish hue for this particular footage.
03:34I'm, I'm going to take this to about 40 or so.
03:36And then, let's go ahead Increase the Strength a lot and maybe take down the
03:41Tint again, so it's even more blue. Maybe like 25, and then we could use
03:46Exposure Compensation to take this down, and now we have a pretty decent day for
03:50night shot, except that our sky is way too bright.
03:55Oh yeah, we have Grad Exposure, so let's go ahead and Turn On Grad Exposure, which
03:59we use to actually brighten the sky. But, we can actually take this to a
04:04negative value, so I'll Click and Drag Stops down.
04:08And then, I will go to the y2 value, or grab the bottom of this Gradient Tool,
04:12and bring it up so the Gradient's concentrated a little bit more.
04:18And then, we have darker night skies with this kind of environmental haze around
04:23the bottom which silhouettes the trees really nicely.
04:28And actually, we might want to take that down even more.
04:31And then, go back over to Sky Filter, and make that a, a little darker even as our
04:35eyes adjust. Now, this is not the perfect day for
04:38night shot because the sun was so bright that it creates these really hard shadows
04:41on the ground. And the moon never creates really hard
04:44shadows on the ground. So it's never going to be believable, but
04:47it's pretty darn close, and it's pretty easy to do.
04:50Now another thing that we haven't really talked about too much, is that the order
04:53in which these effects occur plays a big roll in the final look of the product.
04:57Even within the same category. So say within the Matte Category, I could
05:01take Grad Exposure and Drag it to the other side of the Sky Filter and you see
05:05that it lightens things a little bit. Because now, now we are performing a Grad
05:11Exposure Correction on top of the Sky Filter instead of vice versa.
05:16So, even here there is a subtle change. So, be aware that the order in which
05:20effects Apply in this Tool Chain, from left to right, makes a big difference in
05:24the look of the final piece. Now, I'm going to turn these Off, for
05:29right now. Let's go back to the Tools, and the Matte
05:31Tools here. One of the things I like to play with, is
05:34the Gradient. I think that this is a great Tool to use
05:36for Sky Correction, should be called, like Sky Gradient, because I find it much
05:38more helpful than the Sky Filter. So that I Double Click on it, the Default
05:43Color is, like this gold color. I think, you might like that.
05:46It might be for something stylized, I'm thinking more orange a little bit.
05:50Maybe we'll even take this a little bit further down, it kind of creates a really
05:54stylized world. What I'm going to do is Reset both of
05:58those and I'm going to take the hue, Drag that little Hue Control around to blue,
06:02and I'll Click and Drag, maybe over here on the left and make this a little bit
06:06more saturated. Oh, oh hello, looks much better there,
06:14much more skyish. And then one, one of the things you'll
06:18notice is that a lot of times when you're Adding color in, it's actually darkening things.
06:24So you can go over to this Exposure Compensation and increase that, which is,
06:27which is great. Probably everything probably would be a
06:30little bit brighter. But the problem is, is that when you're
06:33doing Exposure Compensation, it's not graduated like the rest of the colors are.
06:39So in other words, it doesn't just stop, so this bottom area really is not being
06:42effected by the Gradient. But it is being effected by the Exposure Compensation.
06:47So if we wanted to, for example, brighten the skies or the blue in the skies, then
06:51we can actually go over here to the Color Wheel and Increase, grab on this little
06:55black and white Slider here and Drag that upwards and then brighten the sky, that way.
07:03And I could take down the Exposure of the whole image, and brighten the sky.
07:08And I could keep balancing that until it gets somewhere where I like.
07:11And I really like this Gradient. You could play with that if you want to.
07:13We go to y2 and Drag this Up or Down. We could have it so it's a little bit
07:17more adjusted in the sky. That does make the sky a little bit more
07:20believable because as we look closer to the horizon line, the amount of
07:24atmosphere builds up and becomes lighter. But even though that's more believable
07:31for the sky, it doesn't change the fact that we're not getting the blue on the
07:34trees anymore, which actually, you really like.
07:38So what I'm going to do is take this y2 back Down.
07:40And you can see that these trees are now getting covered a little bit, and it's,
07:43it's gradual. It, but it's getting covered a little bit
07:47in the blue from the sky, which makes everything composite better.
07:51We might want to even brighten up that a little bit more.
07:56And now we have a much better image. Here's the before, using the Backslash
08:01Arrow, or the Backslash on the keyboard. There's the original, and there's with
08:05our blue sky. I might just want to Turn Down the
08:08Strength of the whole thing a little bit. because now that I see the before and the
08:12after it is a pretty harsh adjustment. Maybe we could even Desaturate that blue
08:16a little bit. It definitely looks better with the blue.
08:21But again, it's a, it's a fine balance between something that looks better from
08:23an aesthetic point of view, and something that also looks believable, because if it
08:26looks artificial it's going to take people out of the, out of the moment.
08:31So even though our skies ideally would be super blue like that, it just, it's
08:35going to be not convincing. So here's before and after and that looks
08:41fantastic thanks to these great Matte Tools.
08:44Also note, that one of the key Tools in the Matte Area is Diffusion, and this
08:49kind of creates a Diffuse Glow in the image.
08:53Here's the before and the after. It kind of makes all the highlights
08:57bright and dreamy. And, that can be really great if you're
09:00having a flashback or something that's a little bit dreamy or romantic.
09:04Again before and after. And also, in that Matte Section there's,
09:08down towards the bottom, there are tons of these Diffusion Presets that you can
09:12use that have a bunch of different variations.
09:16And one of the things I like about Looks and we alfo, also haven't talked about,
09:19is that the Icons here tell you what's going on with the effect.
09:23So in the last movie when we were looking at Chromatic Aberration, you actually saw
09:26the Chromatic Aberration in the Icon. Same thing here with the Tools Presets,
09:30you can see with these Icons what's going on and you could see here, say for
09:33example, for the Color Filter you could see that this is a cool Color Filter and
09:36this is a warm Color Filter because of these Icons.
09:41I think it's brillant. Next up, we'll look at the Lens Tools.
09:45
09:45
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Using the Lens tools
00:00 Folks in this tutorial we're going to look at the Lens tools then I find these
00:05 to be the most interesting and kind of fun creative tools that Looks has.
00:11 So I'm going to go to Looks and click on Edit to open up the little interface here
00:14 and I've already applied a Colorista 3-Way here for you.
00:19 This is the before you the original image.
00:21 And then after, slightly more creepy. I'm going to go ahead and turn off the
00:25 scope so that we have a little bit more screen real estate.
00:29 Go to my Tools and go to the Lens section.
00:32 Again, we're seeing a lot of unusual settings here we haven't seen before.
00:37 For example, there's this De-flare. This is a really interesting setting.
00:41 And I haven't really had an opportunity to use this in a real setting, but.
00:45 What it does is that it takes, it finds bright spots and it darkens the area
00:49 immediately around them. So, as we increase the strength, we can
00:54 see what that's doing. It's not just increasing contrast, it's
00:58 finding the bright parts of the image like right here on this little fake Lego
01:03 coffin, and it is darkening the area around that.
01:08 So maybe if you did have a shot where light was pouring into the camera, or
01:10 something was flaring up a little bit too much, you could use De-flare to maybe isolate.
01:15 That light. I'm just going to go ahead and hit the
01:17 Delete key with that selected to delete it.
01:19 Let's go back to our Lens Tools. Another interesting effect here is Lens Distortion.
01:23 So double-click on Lens Distortion. And what this does is adds a pin cushion
01:27 type of effect. The same as you might get when you have a
01:31 wide angle lens. Or maybe even a fish eye lens.
01:35 And as we click on this area here, we can see the amount or the area in which this happens.
01:42 We bring it out really big, then we distort the center, if we bring it in
01:45 small, then we start distorting the edges.
01:48 And we could do, of course, increase the distortion amount here and we could also
01:53 flatten it. So this is basically the the feathering
01:59 of that option, but sometimes like if you wanted to create kind of an interesting
02:02 warped look, this looks pretty cool. I wouldn't think of this as lens correction.
02:09 So if you had a wide angle lens you could of course.
02:12 Kind of go the opposite direction to kind of balance things out as we like, bulge
02:16 the center, we're kind of squishing the inside so, if we did a very subtle
02:19 correction, we could maybe compensate for warped corners if that's not what we wanted.
02:26 But there are other tools in After Effects that are better for that so, and
02:29 there's really not too many parameters here, so this is more of kind of like a
02:32 stylized special effect for doing stuff like that.
02:36 Okay, I'm going to go ahead and select that and hit Delete, go to the Tools> Lens.
02:39 Now, one of the big ones here is vignette, if I double-click that, adds a vignette.
02:46 And I can re-size this vignette how I would like.
02:49 I can also use my wheel mouse to zoom out or zoom in and I could also use it to
02:54 maybe flatten this vignette. This is also good, too, if I put my
02:59 cursor here, with the hand, I can actually move the entire vignette.
03:03 And, it doesn't have to, necessarily, have to be the standard vignette, where
03:06 all of the edges are darkened, it could also be this type of vignette where we're
03:09 just kind of focusing, on this area. And, in this case, we wouldn't, really
03:14 want all these areas to be that dark. So we could do, is go over to the
03:19 Strength and take this down a little bit which brightens the other areas, but it
03:23 still does create a nice area of focus. So, if I turn off the vignette, I turn on
03:30 the vignette. You can see the difference that that makes.
03:32 It definitely draws much more attention to this coffin, in the main area of the scene.
03:38 Now I'm actually going to leave the vignette, I'm going to go back to Tools>
03:42 Anamorphic Flare. This is actually a really, simple effect.
03:47 I'm going to drag an drop this, so it comes before, vignette in the chain.
03:52 And now you can see what it does, is that it looks at the highlights, an it causes, streaks.
03:57 Now this is not quite the same thing as, Knoll Light Factory which is also created
04:01 by Red Giant Software, or Optical Flares by video co-pilot, but those two plugins
04:05 are very robust and very complex and they create lens flares with a lot of complex
04:09 elements and they have a pretty steep learning curve.
04:16 This is much more simple, it just looks at the highlights and streaks them.
04:19 So as we can increase the size, it spreads out a little bit more, we can
04:22 also decrease the size, so it's a little bit more.
04:26 Subtle there. You can see the edges kind of die off by
04:28 about this point right here on the edges. It's also great to see a visual
04:31 representation of that on this Anamorphic Flair icon.
04:35 And of course we have Threshold to see what gets that glow applied as we take
04:38 this down, you can see that glow applying to more objects in our scene.
04:44 We could also change the color of that. But this is, kind of, an unusual
04:48 circumstance, and from my experience, it doesn't exactly always pick up the color
04:53 that we want. For example, as we take this to green, or
04:57 yellow, then it just kind of shifts those color on, colors on the color wheel, so
05:02 we're still getting red streaks, here. But then we get green streaks on the top.
05:09 It's a little, a little weird. So I don't like to fiddle with the hue
05:12 that much. I haven't gotten great results that, that way.
05:15 Now the reason why I wanted to put the Anamorphic Flare before the vignette, is
05:18 I want to show you the difference the order of the effects makes.
05:23 This is something that we 've talked about a little bit.
05:24 We'll talk about it more, but I'm going to drag the Anamorphic Flare to the
05:27 right, because right now, what's happening is, I shall let that go, what's
05:30 happening is we have this. Flare, and then we have the vignette on
05:34 top of it. And so, we're actually, on this edge,
05:37 darkening the flare, and in real life, that's not what happens, when light hits
05:40 the lens it's super bright, it doesn't matter what's in front of it.
05:45 So, as I drag this Anamorphic Flare on top of the vignette, in other words, to
05:49 the right of it, then we have a brighter result than we did before because we're
05:53 not having the vignette darken the edges of the flair.
05:59 Now, let's look at one other effect here. I'll go to tools, lens, and then edge softness.
06:03 We'll talk about a few of these, other of these a little bit later.
06:06 I'm going to go ahead and double-click Edge Softness.
06:09 And you could see basically it makes this kind of feathered blur correction.
06:14 So I could put this over here and then we can return the blur size just a little
06:19 bit to turned down an amount of blur. Now we just kind of soften the outside
06:26 edges which creates a really interesting effect.
06:29 Again if we want to put the flair on top of that if that works better.
06:34 We've almost created a more shallow depth of field.
06:36 Now in this case with miniatures, you want as deep of a depth of field as possible.
06:40 So in other words, you want everything in focus to create the illusion that it's a
06:44 bigger area, and you had to use a wider lens in order to capture.
06:48 But if we did want a shallower depth of field, this is a great way to do it.
06:52 Again, we increase the blur and it just seems like just as one area's in focus
06:56 our eye instantly jumps to that one spot. It might not be bad as in this case but
07:01 you can see how cool of an effect that is and how it might come in handy.
07:06 So, if we go down to our little Power icon, we'll turn off the power for the
07:09 flair, the edge softness and the vignette.
07:12 This is the original colored image, and then we, line by line, piece by piece,
07:17 add these extra lens elements. Really fun, really on a set, are when
07:22 you're shooting, lenses make all the difference in the world and they're so
07:25 many cool little. Weirdnesses that happen with these
07:29 lenses, so many tricks with light as the light comes into these pieces of glass
07:33 and bounces around. It's really a beautiful phenomenon, and
07:37 to be able to reproduce that kind of stuff with Looks is really fun.
07:42
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Using the Camera tools
00:00 Now we're going to look at the camera tools in Looks.
00:03 But before we hop into Looks, notice that in the Looks area here in the Effects
00:07 Controls panel, at least in After Effects, we have a little thumbnail that
00:11 shows us the adjustments that we've already added here.
00:15 So if you'll notice, I'll turn off Looks. Here's the original and here's what I've
00:20 done with Looks. And that you can see here just from these
00:22 thumbnails that I've added a Colorista 3-Way.
00:25 I've added curves, and I've added a vignette.
00:28 And even the vignette icon is changed because of the vignette that I added here.
00:34 The vignette that I added is actually making a bright spot right here, so that
00:38 attention is draw to the actress' faces and their dialog, right there.
00:45 Set her ration. And then, there's dark stuff, all the way
00:49 around the bottom and the two sides, but not the top.
00:53 And you can see that reflected in the vignette.
00:55 So, it's pretty cool, very handy to be able to see at a glance, what you got
00:58 going on there. Now, jump into Looks, go ahead and click
01:01 the Edit button, here, and we'll go over to the Camera tool.
01:05 Notice, that I've put all the other corrections.
01:07 In previous tool parts of the tool chain so that we don't have to have anything in
01:11 our Camera section for right now. Now the Camera section's a little unusual actually.
01:18 A lot of the adjustments in the camera section come from the old paradigm of
01:23 developing film. So honestly, a lot of this stuff, really,
01:27 doesn't make too much sense to me because I don't have experience with it.
01:32 For example, the Two Strip process, so this, is something that I wouldn't ever,
01:36 really, play with, we could increase that and decrease that, and it kind of gives
01:40 us an interesting balance of red and cyan, and there's just, no time that I
01:44 would ever use that, probably. Same thing, with Three Strip Process, it
01:51 kind of washes everything out, it looks very, very much like a film color space.
01:58 Not not super great there. But there are some really helpful things.
02:02 Color Reversal is another one I was going to, unusual things.
02:05 It basically adds contrast. But it's one of those things a negative
02:09 beach, bleach bypass. Is really handy, I'm going to double
02:12 click on that. It has a tendency to add a little bit of
02:15 contrast, and also desaturate. I'm going to increase silver retention.
02:19 And as we do we see this kind of gritty, washed out look.
02:24 An exaggerated example of this was used in the move Saving Private Ryan.
02:28 I'm going to go ahead and delete that, go back to tools, scroll all the way down,
02:30 you'll notice there's a couple of presets for you, at least one preset.
02:34 For full negative bleach. So I double click this, and it already
02:38 has silver retention up to 100% for me. So, that's a convenient.
02:43 Go ahead and delete that. Go back to tools.
02:46 Now, we've seen a lot of these effects already.
02:49 Or they're very self explanatory, like contrast, black and white.
02:53 And we've played around with exposure, spot exposure, grad exposure, and a few
02:56 others are in this category that we'll look at in the next movie.
03:00 But one of the ones that's really interesting is shutter streak.
03:03 I'm going to go ahead and double click that to apply it.
03:05 And what this does is it causes these kind of light leaks But that are streaks
03:08 and they're, they're vertical, and so what we could do is we could increase the
03:12 size of them, we could decrease the size of them.
03:17 This is basically the vertical size of them is what that's referring to, and we
03:20 could boost, in other words, we could brighten them up.
03:24 Or we can take them down even to negative if we wanted to.
03:28 I'm not sure if you want to do that but this is a really kind of cool theory of
03:31 dreamy look where it's taking the light of the image an kind of streaking it and
03:35 a depending on what your footage is looking like, sometimes this has just an
03:38 amazingly interesting effect. I love it though, I love that kind of dreamy.
03:46 Streaking of light, where light just kind of bounces around with the lens, or
03:49 interacts with the camera in a certain way, and it creates these weird artifacts.
03:54 I love that. We'll go ahead and hit the delete key,
03:55 get rid of that, go back to tools. One other one I want to show you, pretty
03:58 common stuff, but film grain. Double click to add it.
04:03 Fill grain is all over the place there's After effects a Noise Effect there's also
04:06 the Add Grain effect in after effects and whatever NLE or you know looks host
04:10 application that your using your probably going to have something.
04:15 That simulates film grain. But what's cool about this is that you
04:18 have all of the basic controls, plus a few more, Plus it just looks really good,
04:21 and it renders really quickly. So that's pretty believable film grain.
04:26 I usually like to dial this back a little bit.
04:29 Usually 3% is what I like but as we look at this, it looks more gritty.
04:35 So I could turn this off and on. And you're seeing it like right there.
04:39 I'll zoom in so you can see extra close here.
04:41 So there's off, and on. And it really does look very filmy.
04:47 And it comes on and off very quickly, so that's a cool thing to do if you want to
04:51 have a, a gritty tougher seen You could also click the Color Mode button to turn
04:55 that off and make that monochromatic. I prefer colored noise there.
05:02 But again, it's great and it looks really filmlike.
05:05 Next up, we're going to learn about some sweet tools in the post category.
05:08
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Using the Post tools
00:00 Finally this week we're going to look at the Post tools in looks.
00:04 Now here this little pretty kitty cat. And I've already done some precolor correction.
00:08 I've actually overdone some stuff and we're going to look at that now and how
00:11 to fix it. So I'm going to click on the Edit button
00:14 to open up the looks interface. And you'll notice that I'll just go ahead
00:18 and open up the scopes actually, open RGB parade.
00:21 I've done colorista 3-way, here is the original image, this is what it looks
00:25 like and I'm going to press the Backslash key, put all that back again.
00:30 So we've done some pretty good correction, we've definitely added a lot
00:33 of cool green to the background, there really wasn't much contrast here, very
00:36 washed out, which is how I shot it intentionally.
00:40 And so that way we have so much more room in post to play around.
00:44 And then I have a very intense stylized correction.
00:47 But the highlights are way over bright. It looks really damaged right here under
00:52 the cat's eyes. It's actually a jaguar, so underneath the
00:55 jaguar's eyes are really blown out and it creates these hard edges.
00:59 If we zoom in really close, it's not very pretty.
01:02 And again, if we look at this area there's actually a lot of detail here
01:06 that gets blown out by this color correction.
01:10 And if we look at the RGB Parade, we can see that every single channel has these
01:13 overbrights that are just way, way too bright.
01:18 So we could go in and select Colorista 3-way or we could go over to our Tools,
01:22 go to the Post Effects, and add something called Auto Shoulder, which is almost
01:26 always a good ideal to add. As I double click this, it creates what's
01:32 called a Shoulder, instead of having the highlights where they, have this diagonal
01:36 line, where they just kind of break and it's perfectly bright and then it's not
01:40 perfectly bright. It rounds then.
01:44 It rolls off the highlights. So, instead of having this over bright,
01:47 blown out effect, where we can see the heart into the highlight.
01:51 Again we have this nice smooth transition.
01:53 It's still a little bit too bright. I mean it's way, way, way too bright so
01:56 that we can talk about it, make it clear what's going on here.
02:00 But this auto shoulder is a great tool. Now this is actually similar to the
02:05 camera category has a shoulder effect if we double click that to apply it we have
02:09 some parameters here. We can change where the roll off is and
02:13 we can change the straight the roll off the brightest value we'll allow.
02:18 And that type of thing so its very customizable Auto Shoulder just has
02:21 strength and its already at 100% you can just dial it down basically if you want
02:24 to get more of those highlights intensity back.
02:28 But I, I prefer Auto Shoulder it kind of just does it without thinking about if
02:32 you need more options there is the shoulder option there.
02:36 Now this actually a really good point because the Auto Shoulder effect is only
02:41 in the post category. As we click and drag on one of these, we
02:46 get these, this cool interface here. We have the subject, the little person walking.
02:52 We have the Mac box. We have the lens and we also have the
02:56 camera and over here we have post. And we can't really see that because the
03:01 overlay kind of gets in the way. But sometimes say for example with Pop,
03:06 which we're going to look at right now. It can apply to a few different subjects
03:11 or a few different catergories. We can apply it to the subject category,
03:14 nothing in the camera and we can also apply it in post.
03:19 Now what can be cool is again we can reorder this at any time we could put
03:23 this before or later in the tool chain but we might want auto shoulder for
03:26 example which is only in the post category, we might want it to show up
03:30 earlier in the chain. And we can actually force it to do that
03:36 by holding the Option key on the Mac or the alt key on the PC as we're dragging.
03:42 So we could actually make Auto Shoulder go in the Subject category if we want.
03:46 So that way if we had a bunch of other effects here then that would go on top of
03:50 the Auto Shoulder. Auto Shoulder actually we'd probably want
03:53 right at the end of the tool chains, a good place for it.
03:56 But sometimes you might want to break the order and you might want to put stuff
03:59 where Looks doesn't want you to put it and that short cut gives you the
04:01 permission to do whatever you want with it.
04:05 And, I'm actually going to drag, pop at the end of this.
04:08 And what Pop does is it does something called local contrast.
04:12 It basically makes things pop a little bit more.
04:15 It makes things more clear, have more clarity.
04:17 I'm going to click the Scopes button to get rid of those here and we could
04:20 actually zoom in quite a bit. I'm going to use my wheel mouse to zoom in.
04:24 And actually we can go up here to the zoom area and we can click left and right
04:28 on this and scale this up and down or I can just double click on this and type in
04:32 100, if used as a 100%. It was shot on my Red Scarlet camera.
04:39 So this is 4k footage, super huge. I didn't think that I would be this close
04:43 to a jaguar so I really wasn't prepared and I wasn't focussing.
04:47 As good as I could. I mean, the focus is pretty good all
04:50 things considered, but it's not, it's not great.
04:52 And so, there are some areas like his nose that aren't really super sharp.
04:57 And even some of these hairs. It'd be great to bring out that detail
05:00 and that's what Pop is all about. It's almost like a better form of sharpening.
05:05 So, I'm going to increase the Pop value. I'm just going to double click this and
05:09 type in 50. I want 50 percent for my pop value.
05:12 And now we have a little bit more sharpness and clarity in these little
05:16 details here. So again here is, I'll turn of this effect.
05:20 Here's before. So you see the details of the, the hairs
05:23 especially on the nose. And then I bring this back and everything
05:27 is just. Little bit sharper, little bit clear its
05:30 almost like I've focused a little bit more like my lens does a little bit
05:34 sharper and as we zoom back out you could really see the whole image just looks a
05:37 lot more crisp. So now we can press the Backslash key on
05:42 the keyboards again and see the entire before image, and then after.
05:47 These highlights are still killing me actually, I gotta go back to colorista
05:50 3-way just going to click on the Highlights > Brightness of the highlights
05:54 and just darken those. Auto Shoulder still helps here just to
05:59 make sure things don't blow out but, that was just kind of gross.
06:02 And then I'll bump up the mid tones to compensate and there we have a great
06:06 image there. You might want to bump up the saturation,
06:10 play with the colors a bit more, I can probably fill with this all day but that
06:13 looks pretty good and I'm going to go back to my, my tools here, go back to post.
06:19 Another tool that we've not really talked about here is Cosmo and Cosmo is very
06:22 powerful and an important. But Cosmo actually has broken on become
06:27 its own application, its own program. And so we're going to talk about Cosmo a
06:31 little bit later on in this training series.
06:33 Now next up in the next chapter, we're going to actually get away from just
06:36 talking about what the buttons do and we're just going to look at Magic Bullet
06:39 Looks in practice. And so what we're going to do is we're
06:43 going to show you how to create a color grade like this from scratch on your own.
06:47 And its going to be a lot of fun we're also going to look at tons of other
06:50 really practical uses for Looks in the next chapter.
06:54
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3. Magic Bullet Looks in Practice
Performing basic color correction
00:00 First up in this chapter on looking at how to use Looks in a practical way we're
00:04 going to just start from scratch with a very basic color correction with a very
00:08 washed out file using this jaguar clip from the last movie.
00:14 So I'm going to go ahead and click on the Edit button in the looks interface here
00:18 to get to the looks interface. Now I want to make sure that I click on
00:22 Scopes and have my Scopes open. And RGB Parade is open.
00:27 I'm going to show you an interesting way to grade.
00:28 We're going to grade and I am not going to look at the controls or the image.
00:33 I'm just going to look at the wave form here in the.
00:37 The wave forms in the RGB Parade. I'm going to go to Tools> Subject>
00:42 Colorista Three-way. Now, I want to do that.
00:47 Because you should always look at what you're doing, obviously.
00:49 But, I want to do that because, when you just look at this chart right here, these graphs.
00:56 They really can tell you almost everything you need to know, at least to
00:59 get started. When color correcting an image.
01:02 Especially something like this that was shot with a red scarlet, it's very washed
01:05 out and it should be. It's very flat.
01:08 We want to first get the shadows in the right spot.
01:10 Then get the highlights in the correct spots.
01:12 And then we worry about the mid tones and then the colors.
01:15 So I'm going to grab the outside of the shadow.
01:18 The luminescence values of the shadow. And I'm going to look at the bottom line
01:23 here because as I, hey get out of there, go away.
01:27 As I click on this slider here and go up and down, you can see that we are
01:31 adjusting the shadow line here at the bottom of the RGB Parade.
01:37 So I go down about there, and that looks about right.
01:41 I know that we have pretty much pure black, and we're good.
01:45 It's not going to stay good. I have that prediction, but, for now it's good.
01:51 Let's go to the Highlights and we're going to see the tops of these values
01:53 stretch, as we click on this and stretch upwards, we can see those highlights.
01:58 And, we're seeing them rise a little bit. And we're seeing a little bit of
02:02 posterization here, in the eyes, not much, but we can see that from right
02:06 here, on these graphs, we don't even need to be looking at our image to realize
02:10 that we have clipping. So I can dial that back a little bit.
02:16 Now, when we adjust the mid tones, it's kind of interesting because we are
02:20 watching the middle section, move up and down, but the highlights still move a
02:23 little bit and the shadows still move a little bit.
02:28 So here we're kind of crossing the shadows, even though we're not adjusting
02:31 the shadows. And here, we're kind of flattening out
02:33 the highlights even though we're not adjusting the highlights.
02:36 So with the mid tones, you have a little bit more range, you don't necessarily
02:39 need to look at the RGB Parade here, but again, even with the mid tones, this
02:42 can't be helpful because it helps you see where you're at.
02:47 If I look at this image, I can just see. Even without looking at the actual image
02:51 itself, I could tell that it's going to be too dark, there's really very little,
02:54 in the way of midtones, and really not much in the way of highlights.
02:58 So, we could just look at those graphs, and then balance that out, and then we
03:01 could come here, and say, okay, well, now we need to pull down the shadows a little
03:04 bit more. And we need to maybe tone down the
03:08 highlights a little bit more, or whatever we want to do.
03:11 But this is a great indication of what's happening.
03:15 Now I don't need to look at the Scopes as much except for, just saying seeing how
03:19 my, my adjustments are doing to make sure that I'm on track and not destroying the image.
03:26 But now I can just kind of play with the creative side of it.
03:29 One of the things I want to do is actually add some colors.
03:31 And some contrasting colors this image. So, I want to pull the shadows down to green.
03:36 I want to bring the green out in the shadows, specially in the background here.
03:41 So, I'll pull those to be a little bit green.
03:44 Right now the jaguar looks green and that's not good.
03:47 So, I'm going to go to the mid tones and warm up the mid tones.
03:52 This warms up the whole image, including the, the grass there.
03:56 But, it also makes the jaguar look great. So, when you do color corrections, it's
04:01 kind of like this constant push pull. So, we need a little bit more green now,
04:05 in our shadows, and now we need a little bit more orange, and our mid-tones.
04:10 So, we keep going back and forth until we get to what, something that we like.
04:15 Now, visually, I like the way this is looking.
04:18 However, if I look at my RGB Parade, here, I could see, that, now, my shadows
04:21 are totally crushed. The image doesn't look much darker than
04:26 it did originally, but the shadows are, in fact, being crushed.
04:30 Now, in some cases, that may be okay, but if you're going somewhere, like
04:33 broadcast, or somewhere where people have maybe better monitors, better viewing systems.
04:38 You might see hard edges in the shadows where you're getting posterization, and I
04:42 just generally tend to stay away from that.
04:45 But this is a common challenge when you're adding color to shadows, because
04:49 you're actually adding, let's say more green light here to the shadows, so the
04:53 green channel is not really blowing out the shadows, but the red and blue
04:56 channels are. So if we go over to the Shadows and we
05:01 raise this up 'til, until nothing is clipping anymore, then we have a washed
05:05 out image. So you kind of have to again, play with
05:08 this push pull back and forth untill you get the settings that you're looking for.
05:13 So we might need to actually dial back this setting.
05:16 Maybe take the saturation down of this green so way the red and the blue are a
05:20 little bit more in harmony with where the green is.
05:25 See what I'm doing there see kind of level those out and now we can go back
05:29 and darken all the channels maybe crush the blues a little bit.
05:34 And now we have a good, much better balance we traded in a little bit of our
05:38 green in order to get the images dark and powerful and contrasty as we wanted.
05:45 Now we could go back to the highlights. And some lights to our highlight.
05:49 Sometimes if the shadows are where you want them, I know this sounds crazy, but
05:52 you gotta trust me on this one. When the shadows are where you want them,
05:56 if you want the shadows to seem darker, you actually brighten the highlights,
05:59 because our eyes perceive. The relativity.
06:03 The relative distance between the highlights and the shadows.
06:07 So by brightening the highlights, it actually appears that we darkened the
06:10 shadows even though the shadows don't move at all.
06:14 We could also darken the mid-tones and then we can brighten the shadows or add
06:19 some more green to them, as the case may be.
06:25 And we could just keep going back and forth, where we're lightening the
06:28 shadows, adding color, darkening the mid tones, brightening the highlights.
06:34 Play with it until again, all of the colors and the values line up to
06:37 something that makes us happy.
06:40
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Shifting specific colors
00:00 When you're doing color correction, one of the most handy features is to be able
00:03 to go in and look at a color and then change just that specific color.
00:08 Say for example I wanted to change just her hair color, being able to go in and
00:12 tweak that and customize it is just a real asset.
00:16 Now we have this in After Effects, and in other programs you're probably using, you
00:19 probably have something similar to this. I can apply hue saturation for example.
00:23 And then the channel control dropped down, I can change this to, let's say for
00:27 example, reds and I can adjust the red hue and it's really wonky it's not super specific.
00:34 I'm getting her hair and her face. I can go in and tweak it with this little
00:38 gizmo here but it's not really intuitive, it's kind of clunky.
00:43 I just don't like it. I use it frequently when I'm not using
00:46 Magic Bullet Looks but, but I don't like it.
00:49 I think Looks offers a much better solution.
00:51 So I'm going to click Edit to open up the Looks interface.
00:55 Now what we want to do is go over to the tools and go to the post tools and then
00:59 apply ranged HSL. So let's go ahead and double click that
01:03 to apply it. Now ranged HSL, HSL stands for hue
01:06 saturation and lightness, this gives you in several interfaces here, we can use
01:11 the numeric interface or we can use the hue saturation or hue lightness.
01:18 And it gives us total control over hue saturation and lightness.
01:22 So say for example I want to adjust the tone of her face, her, her flesh tone.
01:27 We have an orange area here, which by the way, hue saturation does not give you an
01:31 orange control, so it's much easier to get to flesh tones.
01:36 And what I could do is click on, let's say for example in hue saturation.
01:39 If I want these tones, these orange tones to be more red, I can move them over to red.
01:44 If I want there to be more yellow, I can move them over to yellow.
01:47 And when we're working in the hue saturation area here, if we bring it
01:52 towards the center, we will desaturate. If we bring it outside of the center, we
01:59 will saturate it. Now same is true of hue lightness.
02:03 If we want to darken her skin tone, we could take it towards the center, and if
02:07 we'd want to brighten it, we can go outside of the circle.
02:11 So again let's try to practice this and see if we can get this to do something
02:14 useful for us. If we click the Reset button, get back to
02:17 square one. I'm going to actually desaturate her skin
02:20 a little bit and then move it over to the red.
02:23 There's a little bit of the yellow tint here.
02:26 That looks pretty good, maybe a little bit less saturated.
02:30 Her skin is pretty pale in real life. And I'm going to go ahead and click the
02:34 skin graft and make sure that we're in the right spot.
02:37 It looks like we're okay. We have some highlights and things like
02:39 that that are not registering as skin tone, but it's okay.
02:42 Mo, we got most of the skin area registering as skin tone.
02:45 So, click Skin, get rid of that. And we can preview this by clicking the
02:48 Power icon here on range HSL. We can see the before and the after.
02:53 So, Initially, she looks pretty okay. But as we took this more towards red, we
02:58 can see that she was looking a little orangish, a little yellow, a little bit
03:03 of an Oompa Loompa there, and then we apply this effect and just a nice, skin
03:07 tone there without the yellowing. Now let's play with her hair a little bit.
03:14 she has this pink tone here which is really beautiful but there's a, a blue
03:17 light coming from behind her and then we have kind of like two-tone hair, almost
03:21 looks like purple and then pink right here.
03:25 So what we could do is we can go to the Purple Icon here, the Purple little
03:28 widget and we can maybe desaturate that by bringing that in.
03:32 We could also drag it closer to pink, so that it looks like her hair's all the
03:36 same color and that black light isn't quite as blue.
03:40 Notice that when I adjust the color in one spot as I move the hue over, it does
03:45 it in both circles. So, move that back over to red, and if I
03:49 want to I can come over here to lightness.
03:53 And darken that by bringing that in here. That looks like maybe it's in shadow, or
03:57 I could go the opposite direction, maybe make it bright, probably not desaturated
04:01 quite as much, bring this up here. Note, that you could also go in and
04:06 adjust these sliders, right here. So, if I want to bring the green and the
04:11 background is a little bit green, we could increase the saturation, or
04:15 decrease the saturation, we could also increase the, oops, get outta here.
04:21 Go back up to controls, click on Range HSL.
04:27 And, I could go ahead and adjust green, make that brighter or darker.
04:33 And the original shot of this, before I added the Colorista 3-Way, before we
04:37 started this tutorial, push the black, backslash key to see that.
04:42 It was very underexposed, really dark, really noisy, so I already pushed it
04:45 really far with the Colorista 3-Way so we don't have that much latitude to do too
04:49 much to it so they start brightening up this green.
04:53 We see a lot of posterization if we zoom in.
04:56 A lot of noise. So I think I might just want to
04:59 double-click this and take this back down to zero.
05:02 But the controls are here if I want to click and drag.
05:05 I find that these are much less sensitive, so if you want to fine tune it
05:10 you might want to go into the actual widgets here, but if you want to go crazy
05:14 and I want to take her hair in the red and go like really high, really fast, I
05:18 can change these numerical sliders here. So, they're back down to zero.
05:27 So as you could see well before and after.
05:29 We have managed to tone the back of her hair down so it's not as distracting and
05:32 it matches the main area of her hair a little bit more.
05:35 And we've also made her skin much less yellow.
05:39 So we have very specific controls over what we want to do with different color
05:43 tones because of ranged HSL.
05:47
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Creating a miniature effect
00:00 One of the unexpected tricks that Looks can do for you is to create a shot that
00:03 looks like it's a miniature. A little tiny version.
00:07 So I'm going to go ahead and open the Looks interface here.
00:10 And I already have a few color correction items placed here in the Tool Chain.
00:16 So I have a color, Color Reset Three-Way, and then I have some Saturation.
00:22 Little Pop, and also a Gradient to give us a little bit of a blue sky there.
00:26 So here's the original, and here's what I changed it to with Looks.
00:30 Now, if we go over to the Tool section here, go to the Lens area, and what you
00:34 want to add the Swing Tilt. Swing Tilt lenses create a depth of field
00:39 from left to right or up and down as opposed to close to the camera and far
00:44 away from the camera. So as I apply this you'll see that we
00:49 have Blur at the bottom and we have the widget here that we can choose what's in
00:53 focus and what's not in focus. We also have a line of focus here if we
00:58 want to just. Shift that, up and down here.
01:02 This, basically, controls the feathering of the focus, so we could bring these
01:05 down, which tends to make things look even more tiny.
01:09 So, this Swing Tilt tool makes things, obviously, you know, you have a really
01:13 sharp area focus here, so it really draws attention to something.
01:19 But, because of these big areas of blur, it makes things look really tiny.
01:24 So, I'll just click over here to deselect, and now our big area here, our
01:28 big reservoir, now looks like a tiny little miniature, a little model version
01:32 of it. This is because, when you have a lens
01:36 with a shallow depth of field, you get tons of blur in front of and behind
01:39 something, and that's kind of what we are more used to seeing.
01:44 So and that's kind of the way that, our eyes, our eyes work as well.
01:46 So when we have something like this where there's tons of blur on a couple
01:49 different sides of the image, could rotate this if we wanted to, but this is
01:52 kind of the axis that we have. But when we see this kind of blur, our
01:56 eyes just think this is a miniature. Now this might be a little overkill, we
02:00 could go over to the blur size. And take this down maybe to about three
02:04 or so. But you can see that as we do that, the
02:07 more we do that, the larger this area looks.
02:12 So if we take this back up to maybe three or four.
02:16 Somewhere in that neck of the woods, you'd see that we definitely have a very
02:20 tiny little reservoir now and it just looks like it's made for little dolls to
02:24 play in. All the magic of this little Swing Tilt
02:29 Effect, again, in the Lens section of the tools.
02:33
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4. Using the MisFire Plugins
What are the MisFire plugins?
00:00 In this chapter we're going to be looking at something called the MisFire plugins.
00:03 These aren't talked about very much out in the community and Red Giant doesn't
00:06 really talk about them very much on their website.
00:09 But if you install Looks, Magic Bullet Looks, you will also get the Magic Bullet
00:14 MisFire plugins. This is a little suite of plugins.
00:18 Open this up here in After Effects and its 14 different effects you could use to
00:22 damage and kind of play with your footage a little bit.
00:27 For the most part these are meant to destroy your footage or make it look like
00:30 it's vintage footage or what have you here.
00:34 I have the MisFire effect applied you, you just the basic MisFire effect
00:37 actually applies all of these objects in one handy effect.
00:42 I'll turn it on where I have all of these going.
00:45 And as I preview this, you could see that I've turned my regular footage that I
00:49 shot with a nice Red Scarlet camera into old vintage film.
00:55 And its pretty believable and it really didn't take much work to get there, so
00:58 it's really nice and handy to be able to have this kind of look is, having to
01:02 recreate this, these kind of splotches and lines, and noise, and everything else
01:05 from scratch, is a really a pain. These are, some pretty cool effects,
01:11 we're just going to take some time and look at those in this chapter.
01:14 Note, that if you have Vegas or Final Cut Pro X, or motion, Apple motion, you will
01:19 not have these, MisFire plugins in those host applications.
01:26 But in the other host applications, After Effects, Premiere, Avid, etcetera, you
01:29 will have them. So, let's take a quick look at the
01:33 MisFire plugins.
01:35
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Creating the look of destroyed film
00:00 Now, let's look a little bit more closely at Misfire and the various elements and
00:03 components of Misfire. Now, there is actually 13 true effects
00:07 here, each one of these is its own effect.
00:10 So if I wanted to add some flicker, I can just double-click or just apply Flicker.
00:15 And if I play this back, you could see that we now have flicker on our footage.
00:22 So it's just easy if you want to apply one of these things.
00:26 Grain or splotches or a vignette or whatever.
00:29 And for each of these we have just a couple, usually, maybe one or two or
00:32 three, options. Some of them have more, but most of them
00:35 are very limited, very simple and easy. Now, I'm going to go ahead and delete that.
00:39 If we apply the 14th effect, this is Misfire, just called misfire.
00:43 It applies all of them, just going to resize this, so you can see this a little
00:47 bit better here. It applies all of them with the options
00:51 as well. So for example, we just applied Flicker,
00:55 but if we apply the Misfire effect, we can check Apply Flicker.
00:59 Open up Flicker and we see we have the same settings here.
01:02 So, I play this back. And then have that here.
01:05 So again I can turn it on and off, super quick and easy.
01:09 Now there really are some great effects here that do great damage to your, your
01:13 footage here. So, fading, for examples, we're just
01:16 going to bring up the shadows and wash everything out.
01:19 Sort of before and after. There's Funk, which applies kind of just
01:23 a little bit of warp, which really adds a lot of character to your footage.
01:29 It's a little hardcore. a little overkill.
01:32 So, you could turn down the Funk or pass it, if we want to.
01:35 Not too much in the way of control though.
01:37 But it does apply just kind of just a little funky overlay almost like a
01:41 fractal noise pattern or something like that, just kind of makes it look like
01:45 it's damaged film. We also have splotches.
01:50 And I'll go ahead and up the number of splotches so we can see those.
01:53 Those are very film like splotches like so.
01:56 But they do flicker, so they're not always on screen.
01:59 This adds a lot to that old, vintage film look.
02:03 Also, this is probably one of the ones that's more challenging and hard to
02:07 replicate on your own. We could use some fractal noise patterns
02:11 to do that, but to get them to flicker like this, randomly on and off, is a
02:13 little bit more of a challenge. So that's a great tool.
02:17 There's also some dust, I'll go ahead and increase the the black dust amount, the
02:20 white dust amount, so you can kind of see what it's doing there.
02:25 that's obviously way too overkill. But again just a little, little speckles
02:30 on your footage. And, I'll go ahead and turn off dust, and
02:33 we've already looked at flicker. There's also vignette we know what that does.
02:38 It's a nice little soft vignette around the edges.
02:41 It's kind of cool because it, it's already kind of softened for you.
02:44 It's not really like a black vignette. It's just a darkening vignette.
02:47 It's blended really nice by default. we also have displacement, which I'll
02:51 turn that up so you could see that a little bit more clearly.
02:53 If I increase the amount here, you could see what that's doing, just kind of
02:56 warping everything. And so like, as the footage moves here,
03:00 it's kind of going through that warped displacement pattern creating real
03:03 interesting stuff here. again for the warped film look, keeping
03:09 it at the default is probably the best. We just get a little bit of, a little bit
03:14 of hints of displacement along these edges as we see it.
03:17 Suddenly we kind of feel more than directly see what's going on.
03:20 I'm going to go ahead and turn that off. We also have some micro scratches.
03:25 There's little tiny vertical scratches which are really common in old film that,
03:28 again, adds a lot. We, of course, have grain, which is
03:32 really heavy by default. That does add a lot.
03:35 So you shouldn't even combine this with splotches, and maybe a little bit of funk
03:39 and fading. It really does add a lot to that kind of
03:43 old bus and film effect. Turn those back off, go down here.
03:48 We also have deep scratches, just really big vertical lines.
03:51 We also have basic scratches, maybe a little thinner vertical lines.
03:56 And, we also have gate weave, which is a really interesting wiggle effect, it's an
04:00 animation thing. So, as I play this back, you could see
04:03 every once in a while, it kind of gets messed up here.
04:07 Almost like film might get in a projector, an old messed up projector,
04:10 where it kind of skips a little bit. And, finally, we have post contrast which
04:17 is a really heavy application of contrast.
04:21 We can control that of course. But it's a very filmic-looking contrast.
04:26 And old movies tended to have this really strong contrast, especially when played
04:30 back in digi-movie theaters with bad projectors.
04:33 So all these tools combined make great vintage film.
04:37 But as you can see, they also do a great job of damaging your footage in certain ways.
04:43 So you might not necessarily be going for the vintage film look.
04:46 But there's a lot of things here, a lot of tools, that can help you achieve some,
04:49 some great effects.
04:51
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5. Using Colorista II
About Colorista II
00:00 We're now going to switch gears and look at another app in the Magic Bullet Suite
00:03 called Colorista. Colorista, like Looks, is a tool for
00:08 adjusting colors. In the Colorista II interface, we'll see
00:12 a lot of familiar stuff that we saw when we were working in looks.
00:15 So, we'll see the three circles with the gizmos, with the brightness and the
00:18 saturation and the color. And that all works the same.
00:22 We also have the same Ranged HSL controls that we saw with Looks also.
00:28 Now there are a few extra bells and whistles in using this as opposed to Looks.
00:33 One of them is that we don't have a specialized interface that we have to load.
00:38 With Looks we have the Looks Builder, and we had to click the Edit button to jump
00:41 into that interface to get working. Here, we're just working in our host application.
00:47 That means that we can actually preview footage, unlike when we're in the Looks
00:51 Builder and we didn't have that capability.
00:55 I find it tremendously helpful to be able to look at what my footage looks like in
01:00 motion with the color adjustments. Being able to take a representative frame
01:06 is all well and good, but as people or the camera start moving, things change
01:10 dramatically and having the ability to play back movement is really important to me.
01:17 So Colorista definitely has that advantage.
01:19 One of the disadvantages of staying here in the host interface is that, in this
01:24 case, we don't have scopes. So when we were in Magic Bullet Looks, we
01:29 had all those great RGB parades, and the waveform monitors, and all that stuff.
01:34 And we don't have that in Colorista. Now, throughout this chapter we're
01:38 going to be showing you how to do a lot of the stuff that we did with Looks, but
01:40 how to do it in Colorista. And, we're also going to be talking a
01:43 little bit about the benefits of using Colorista over Looks.
01:47 For example, we have the primary corrections here.
01:49 We also have secondary corrections, with a lot of control, including Power Masks
01:54 and the ability to key out certain colors, which we didn't really see in Looks.
02:00 That's one of the big advantages of Colorista over Looks.
02:03 And we also have a final master control. So a lot of this stuff can be faked with
02:07 Looks, but again, there are some functionalities like that ability to key
02:11 colors, that Colorista has that Looks doesn't.
02:16 Also with Coloristo II, the host applications are much more limited.
02:20 We only can apply this and use Colorista II in After Effects, Premiere, and in
02:25 Final Cuts six and seven. So for Colorista, no Final Cut Pro 10, no
02:31 Motion, no Avid, no Vegas. Now, another to note is that we're
02:36 going to be looking in this chapter at Colorista 2.
02:40 The original version, Colorista 1, was so different that if you go to the Red Giant
02:44 website, you could actually get Colorista 1.0 for free.
02:50 So this is not a strings attached. They're just giving away the whole thing
02:52 for free. It's much slower to render and it was
02:55 more clunky, but it did have the same three wheels and it's available, again,
02:59 for free from their website. You might also remember earlier in this
03:04 training series that Colorista was an effect in Looks that you could put in the
03:08 tool chain. So this is the same thing there.
03:12 It's just it's own standalone plugin available for free.
03:15 It should also be noted that the slowness that I mentioned, that was a problem in
03:19 Colorista I, is not a problem in Colorista II at all.
03:24 Here's before. This is what the original footage and I
03:27 could go into my primary stuff here. I'll turn this back on and I'll make some
03:31 little change. So it gets rid of my ran preview here.
03:35 And you can see that it's still going like a champ.
03:38 I have color and luminance corrections to all of the three-way primary directions here.
03:44 For shadows midtones, and highlights, totally changed and it just renders so quickly.
03:49 So a lot of those speed issues that made Colorista a challenge to work with in
03:53 version 1.0 are fixed in version 2. So let's jump in and learn a little bit
03:57 more about Colorista II.
03:59
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Making basic corrections
00:00 Before we start getting all adventurous with Colorista 2, let's just back up and
00:04 do a basic color correction, using Colorista 2.
00:08 Now a lot of this is going to be a review of what we looked at when we did Looks.
00:13 But there are some new bells and whistles here.
00:15 So I have Colorista 2, I have this image that's extremely washed out It was not
00:19 only a really gray day this was taken right in front of a water fall so there's
00:24 just tons of mist and everything is just solid gray almost barely make out the,
00:28 the skyline there with trees. So let's go over here to primary three
00:35 ways one of the things that kind of cool is we can click the little calculator here.
00:39 And again, RGB values, if that's our preference.
00:42 And it's actually a lot easier to get to colors and to adjust them, a little bit
00:47 more intensity when we're using these numbered values and clicking and dragging
00:51 on those. I'm going to go ahead and click the reset
00:55 button for now. So it's an option.
00:58 Go ahead and turn off the numbers. Let's go up to primary exposure.
01:01 Now we can increase the exposure or decrease the exposure here.
01:06 Nothing. New or that different.
01:09 But what is kind of different, is this Density value, this is a really
01:12 unconventional, option, here. Essentially, a, eh, in, in a first
01:16 glance, here, it's really very similar to exposure, we're brightening and darkening things.
01:22 But, the way that the Actual values are affected.
01:27 It's very different with exposure and density.
01:31 And I'm not really sure how to explain this.
01:34 It seems like exposure spreads the values out a little bit more, so in other words,
01:37 when you down exposure all the way. It's almost like you are stopping down on
01:42 a camera. In other words, you're closing the
01:45 aperture making everything darker. Or the opposite, when you increase this.
01:48 You drag this to the right. You are blowing out the values.
01:51 Making everything else everything brighter.
01:53 I'm going to click the Reset button. But notice when I go to, to Density, and
01:57 I click and drag left on Density And I take this down.
02:00 We are getting darker for sure. But we're also still maintaining some of
02:05 that contrast. So, the highlights are staying where they
02:09 are a lot more than they do with exposure.
02:13 So, almost like when we take down a density amount about negative four here.
02:18 We almost have created a silhouette. In order to create a silhouette, you
02:22 kind of have to leave some of those mid terms on the highlights, where they are a
02:25 little bit more than we did with exposure same thing when we make things brighter.
02:31 In other words not is as obvious we still definitely have some darker tree, trees
02:35 in the sky line here. So you will get a more natural result
02:40 with using exposure, but be aware that density is here if you want to just kind
02:44 of get situated, get you image kind of in the right place as far as exposure is
02:48 concerned and density helps you. Now we also have highlight recovery.
02:54 This is similar to what we saw when we looked at Looks where we can recover the
02:58 highlights, kind of like the auto shoulder.
03:01 We can increase this and- And roll those highlights off nicely.
03:04 And we also have, of course, our little three way color director corrector.
03:09 So let's actually use that to fix this image.
03:12 First thing we always want to do is go to the shadows.
03:14 This is a little bit, the interface is a little bit wonky confusing to me, so this
03:18 is shadows, mid tones, and highlights which makes sense, but This, if you're
03:22 just kind of looking at it really quick, it can look like this is shadows.
03:28 Or this is highlights, depending on how you're looking at it.
03:31 So, this is shadows on the left. So, we're going to go to the lumence of
03:34 the shadows shadows and bring that down here along that right edge.
03:39 And let's make sure we get some really dark Blacks in here.
03:43 And then let's go to the highlight and we'll click the luminance of the
03:46 highlight and we'll bring that up until we have a nice good sky.
03:50 Yeah, we don't want to blow it out, but somewhere around there looks pretty good,
03:54 and then we can adjust the mid-tones to taste, the brightness of the mid tones.
03:59 I kind of like this crunchy look where we turn down the mid tones.
04:03 Maybe go back to the highlights and then brighten those highlights as we have a
04:07 nice strong contrasting image. Now, we can play around with the color here.
04:12 So, I want to actually make this, since the trees are all, kind of, the darkest
04:17 part of the image, I want to drag the shadows.
04:21 Over to green, and you could actually increase the saturation of that.
04:26 And again color correction is a push pull thing, so we're going to take from one
04:29 side, and then we're going to give it on the highlights side, then we're going to
04:32 have to go back and forth until we kind of get what we're looking for.
04:36 I'm going to Add some blue sky tone in the highlights.
04:42 And actually I want to add some cyan to the mid tones here, and that will kind of
04:46 create a nice balance between the green shadows and the blue highlights.
04:52 It's a little bit too saturated in the sky for my taste, maybe a little bit Too
04:56 saturated in the mid tones, but other than that we have a pretty decent image.
05:02 This is going to always be, kind of like a stormy, brooding image that's a little
05:05 bit washed out because of the fog and the waterfall mist and stuff like that.
05:10 So, it's never going to be completely, contrast-free, but I don't think it
05:13 should be, it looks pretty good as is. Now just to show you the before and
05:18 after, we'll go up to colorista two. And we could actually turn off the, the
05:22 values here with the effects icon here, or we can come down to primary bypass and
05:26 just click this so we're bypassing the primary color collection we've just added.
05:33 So it didn't seem like we did too much, but there is the original image,
05:36 completely washed out almost completely gray.
05:40 And we turned it into that, which is pretty nice.
05:43 Now be aware of a couple other things here.
05:45 We do have a white balance eye dropper, works the same as any other tool where
05:48 you click on the eye dropper, and you select pure white in your image, or what
05:51 should be pure white, and not have a color tint to it, and then Colorista 2
05:54 will automatically balance that out for you.
05:59 We also have a master Primary saturation control where we could increase
06:03 saturation, or decrease the saturation as the case calls for.
06:08 Another cool trick really quick with Colorista, is this primary exposure.
06:12 You could actually play around with this really quickly by using the arrow keys on
06:15 your keyboard. If you press the up arrow, it goes up a
06:18 quarter of a value. A quarter of one stop, let's say.
06:21 And as I Keep pressing up arrow key, we're brightening it.
06:26 Or the down arrow key, we are darkening it.
06:28 So if you want to quickly see what your image looks like, brighter, or darker,
06:31 you can do that with the arrow keys which is really handy.
06:36 Now what we've just done is referred to as primary color correction.
06:39 In other words we've just done the basics.
06:42 We've gotten the shadows, the mid-tones and the highlights where they should be,
06:45 and then we get to get Playful. And we did a little bit of that with the
06:49 color adjustments here with the three-way color correctors.
06:52 But in the next few movies we're going to look at the secondary controls where we
06:56 can take things up a notch with Colorista 2.
07:00
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Doing secondary color corrections
00:00 All right, folks. Here's where it gets fun.
00:01 We're going to look at secondary color correction.
00:04 Now we know that there is a Secondary Color Correction section down here in the
00:09 Colorista 2 interface. But we don't necessarily have to use the
00:13 Secondary section for secondary color correction.
00:17 Allow me to explain. The secondary color correction.
00:20 Is done. Once you've done the primary color
00:23 correction, you get your colors where you want them, then you can go in and
00:26 selectively choose colors to enhance or change.
00:29 So for example, we're going to start with the primary color correction of this
00:33 image and get the colors all looking right and being where they should be.
00:37 And then we're going to change the color of this green purse.
00:39 That is secondary color correction. But we're going to use primary tools to
00:44 do that. And then, since were kind of in bizarro
00:47 world anyways at that point, we're going to actually go to secondary
00:51 correction and make a second primary correction and blend that together.
00:56 So there's a lot you can do with these different sections and I, I don't want
00:59 you to feel like you're limited, that you have to do primary color correction in
01:02 the Primary selection. You have to do secondary in the Secondary
01:07 section so, we're going to be all over the place.
01:09 Now one of the cool things about this about the interface here is that it does
01:12 kind of get annoying to open up the Primary section, see all these controls,
01:15 scroll all the way down and open up Secondary and then you.
01:20 Go back up and you close primary, it gets really annoying.
01:22 So one of the cool keyboard shortcuts, is that if you're on a Mac.
01:26 You can do Cmd plus the number 1 on your keyboard and that shows you the Primary
01:30 section and closes all others. That would be Ctrl+1 on Windows.
01:37 Ctrl+2 will Close Primary, Open Secondary and it will put it right at the top here.
01:43 Cmd+3 or Ctrl+3 will do the same thing with the Master section.
01:49 Notice that I didn't close the Primary or Secondary.
01:51 I just used the keyboard shortcut. And because I used the keyboard shortcut,
01:54 they were automatically closed for me. So I'm going to be using Cmd+1, Cmd+2,
01:59 and Cmd+3. Or again on Windows that's Ctrl+1,
02:03 Ctrl+2, Ctrl+3, as we go throughout this tutorial and the rest of this chapter.
02:07 So we're going to go back to Cmd+1, Ctrl+1, get the Primary section.
02:11 And we're actually going to use this auto balance feature.
02:14 This is just amazing how this works. I'm going to use the Eye Dropper tool.
02:17 Just click the eye dropper. I'm going to go over to her white glove
02:20 which again should be white. So I'll click that.
02:24 And boy, what a difference that made, huh?
02:26 There's the original and there's with just with that one.
02:29 Adjustment, now I want to make sure that our shadows are in the right spot so I'm
02:33 going to just eyeball this here since we don't have any graphs.
02:37 I don't want to crush anything but I want it to look darker.
02:39 And I want to brighten the highlights a little bit and again I want to not blow
02:43 anything out here so I got to be careful. And then I can drag down the midtones to taste.
02:50 Just a little bit, so again, we're just playing with the brightness value here.
02:53 And when we do this green purse, which really is the focus here, really doesn't
02:57 pop too much, so this is where secondary color correction comes in.
03:01 So I'm going to go down to Primary HSL. And I'm going to grab this little green
03:06 target here, this little green puck. And I am going to use, the left wheel
03:11 here is a saturation, this controls the brightness.
03:15 And so I'm going to actually come in here and if I go to the center, I'm going
03:18 desaturate green which is the exact opposite of what I want.
03:22 So I'm going to go outside of the circle, click and drag outside.
03:27 And just a little bit because everything's pretty much black and white
03:30 so if we just pop the saturation a little bit.
03:33 It is enough and I actually want to drag this towards blue a little bit, not too
03:36 much here I don't want a blue purse. I just want a little bit more blue in
03:40 that, in that hue there. And I also want to come over here to the
03:44 lightness wheel and drag it outside of the wheel to brighten that.
03:49 And so its a little bit. A little bit brighter.
03:52 Now that purse absolutely pops. So we could actually go to the top of the
03:56 interface, turn off the effect, and just see what a difference what we made there.
04:01 Very cool. So again we just did secondary color
04:04 correction using primary tools. Now I'm going to press Cmd+2 or Ctrl+2 on
04:09 the PC. To go to the Secondary section.
04:13 Now there are some great tools here that we're going to be talking about,
04:15 including this really powerful key interface as well as power masks.
04:19 We'll get to that in just a moment. But another thing we can do with
04:22 secondary correction is apply our creative grade here in the Secondary section.
04:27 So let's say I want maybe like, some cool blueish tint in the shadows.
04:31 So I'll grab the center of that and move that towards blue.
04:34 I'm going to kind of overdo it a little bit here.
04:37 So we got some blue shadows going on, and maybe even darken those a little bit,
04:41 maybe even darken the mid-tones a little bit, and maybe drag those towards a
04:44 little bit more blue as well. And then let's go ahead and warm up the
04:50 highlights for this great contrast here. Yeah, there we go, that looks cool, maybe
04:54 brighten them a little bit too and increase that contrast.
04:58 So it's a little bit overdone, but because we did our secondary grade, in
05:02 other words, our our creative grade, separate from our primary grade, we can
05:06 control and balance and mix them. So this, technically, isn't secondary
05:11 color correction, but this is a creative grade, it's a separate grade.
05:14 So, I'll scroll down a little bit, here, to the bottom of the Secondary section.
05:18 And, we can see, because of this bypass, we can click this check box and see,
05:21 here's the primary grade, here's the creative grade, it's way too strong.
05:26 So, what we can do, is just take the Secondary Mix value down, a lot, maybe
05:31 take that to around 65 or so. And then now we have a great looking image.
05:37 So if we go back to this here we don't really have too much, in the way of
05:40 coolness happening it just kind of looks like we stuck a camera at stuff and it
05:44 was happening. But with the secondary correction we have
05:49 these blues going on we have some more warmth and the highlights on their skin.
05:54 And we have the green purse still which looks great.
05:56 And we can dial that back as much or as little as we want to.
06:01 So again taking that back to 65. We now have a great image and this not
06:04 again secondary color correction. But we could use these different color
06:08 wheels and these different groups of colors to play with the gray a little bit more.
06:13 And have more control and flexibility. Next, we're going to look at how to use
06:17 Power Masks to isolate secondary corrections.
06:20
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Isolating secondary corrections
00:00 Let's now look a little bit deeper into the world of Secondary Color Correction.
00:05 We're going to get a little taste of keying specific colors, we're just going
00:08 to very, just scratch the surface of that and we'll dig into that in the next movie.
00:14 But here what we're going to do is do a basic color correction on her skin.
00:20 And then we're going to isolate it so that it doesn't apply to both characters
00:23 at the same time. So this is a really handy trick.
00:27 So over, over in Colorista 2, I'm going to use the keyboard shortcut Cmd +
00:31 2 on the Mac, Ctrl + 2 on the PC to look at my secondary section.
00:36 You could also just scroll and open it up if you want to go that way.
00:40 Now I've already applied a basic primary correction here.
00:45 There's the before and the after, but nothing in the secondary section.
00:49 So what I want to do actually here, is make it so that this skin tone of our
00:53 main character here on the left pops a little bit more.
00:57 These girls are both pretty equal In, their footing here.
01:01 And actually since she's a little bit shorter even thoguh she's our main
01:03 character, she's a little bit diminished. So we want to make her pop a little bit.
01:07 Make her skin tone a little stronger, a little bit more saturated.
01:11 And we only want to that to the skin tone.
01:14 If we saturated the whole thing then that applies universally to all the colors and
01:18 not what we want. So I'm going to take back down to 0.
01:21 Alright, we're going to open up the secondary key interface.
01:25 Go ahead and go under Secondary Key and click the Edit button.
01:28 Now again, we're going to have a specific movie on just this interface, in the next movie.
01:33 So a little bit more advanced, but just as a basic level, make sure that this
01:36 tool up here is selcted, this well like, looking thing with the plus icon.
01:41 And we're just going to click and drag a marquee around her cheek there.
01:47 Make sure to get none of the background and get her cheek.
01:51 Now what we can do is use the spacebar tool, hold that down, and then move that
01:56 around so that we can see more of our key here.
02:01 Now we're not really getting a lot of the highlights of her face.
02:04 So I'm going to go over to the plus icon here and I'm just going to kind of paint
02:08 over those areas, just hold my mouse button down and click and drag over those
02:13 areas, little bit more on her chin here and that looks about good there.
02:20 Now if I again, hold down the Spacebar and move this around.
02:24 We'll see that the other character's face, the blond woman, her face is also
02:28 get, picking this up, which makes sense because we're saying look at all of these
02:33 color tones and the whole image. And it's also picking up some of the background.
02:39 So what we're going to now is look at how to limit this.
02:41 So I'm going to go ahead and hit the enter key, or the okay button And you
02:45 shouldn't notice any difference in this, because all we've done is basically told
02:49 Colorista that we want to limit all of the secondary corrections to this stuff
02:52 that we just keyed out. So now as we change the hue, the whole
02:59 image will not have a change of hue. Only the colors that we keyed.
03:04 So we see that their faces, not too much of that background that's changing slightly.
03:09 But mostly their skin tones are changing because that's what we isolated.
03:13 So I'm going to take the secondary hue back down to 0.
03:15 I'm going to increase the saturation quite a bit to about 30.
03:20 Which is usually a little bit too strong. But because this is a very washed out image.
03:25 This is looking pretty good. We could also adjust the secondary hue, a
03:29 little bit, maybe ten, maybe like eight, just a little bit, it's getting a little pinkish.
03:35 And, we can even increase this secondary saturation a little bit more.
03:41 Now, let's say that we only want this color enhancement, I actually like Both
03:44 of their flesh tones now. But let's just say I wanted to isolate to
03:48 just this one character. One of the common problems with secondary
03:52 correction, is that you tell the keyer what color you want to isolate or what
03:55 color you want to adjust and you'll find that color throughout the entire image.
04:00 So you want to limit. The, or isolate the secondary correction.
04:05 So, we could do is add a power mask here. So, for secondary mask let's choose rectangular.
04:11 And then we can go ahead and click in the center control point and move that in place.
04:17 And resize the side of that, resize the top.
04:22 And again, shift it into place. So now, she is the only one getting this
04:26 color adjustment. And if we do a secondary bypass to turn
04:31 this off, and turn it back on again, you can see that, this girl on the right is
04:34 unchanged, and our protagonist on the left gets a little bit more colorized.
04:41 I'll just go ahead and bump this up to ridiculously high levels so you can kind
04:43 of see the before and after a little clearer.
04:45 So there's The before and there's the after.
04:48 So we've keyed just the skin tones here, that's all we're adjusting and now she
04:52 looks a little oompa loompaish, let me take that down back to a normal level and
04:56 now she just has a little bit pf a pop in her skin tone.
05:02 Now this technique is also really great for and bringing out other features as well.
05:06 So if I scroll back up to Colorista Two and close it.
05:10 You'll see, I've actually applied another Colorista Two, another example, another
05:14 instance of it and if I enable that to turn it on, you'll see that it's way
05:17 overkill and that's because, I really like the tattoos on the model on the
05:21 right hand side of the frame but they do get washed out with the lighting that we have.
05:28 So I wanted to bring those out. And I wanted to isolate those using
05:33 another secondary pass. But the thing is there's only one
05:36 secondary pass in each instance of Colorista 2, and there's only one
05:40 instance of power masks. So if I wanted to enhance just the
05:44 tattoos, I'd have to use another instance of Colorista 2.
05:48 So I did this in the secondary channel this color enhancement.
05:52 But obviousously it looks terrible in the rest of the image.
05:55 So we need to isolate it so we'll go down to secondary power mask again on the
05:59 second colorista 2 and we'll change the secondary mask to say ellipse this time
06:03 and we can click this on the corners here these little circles.
06:10 To rotate this, an then I could put this, drag it around her arm, an then let's,
06:15 drag the side to make this a little smaller, a little shorter, and move that over.
06:25 An if her, dress gets a little bit darker, her back gets a little bit
06:27 darker, all the better. Looks great.
06:30 So I could, increase the feather size a little bit more to make sure that that
06:34 mask is feathered properly. And, this is looking really good.
06:39 So then I could go in and I could turn off the secondary, or turn on the
06:42 secondary bypass to see what it looks like before and after.
06:48 Before and after. It does spill out quite a bit around her
06:52 neck, so if we wanted to, we could take the secondary mix down to maybe 80.
06:57 But we have a great looking enhancement to the tattoo, here, great enhancement to
07:01 the skin tones. Let's go ahead and see the final before
07:05 and after. Here's without the tattoo enhancement,
07:08 with the tattoo enhancement, and there, is the original image.
07:12 And there's with her skin tone, and the regular stuff.
07:16 The overall image increase and then obviously the tattoo we have right there.
07:20 So much improved and we're able to isolate those improvements, as needed,
07:24 because of the Power Master feature inside of the secondary area in Colorator 2.
07:31 Up next, we're going to look a little bit more closely at how to key colors.
07:35
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Keying colors
00:00 In this tutorial we're, going to dig a little bit deeper and really get to the
00:03 heart of secondary color correction. As we look at this example and figure out
00:07 how to isolate colors to work on just those colors.
00:12 Now, this is an actual example from my own personal life.
00:16 I I'm filming this short film. I filmed this short film at this location.
00:21 And when I did the initial locations scouting, it looked super desolate and it
00:24 was, it was great and that's kind of the tone of the movie.
00:29 It's this fantasy world. It's kind of set where everything's dead
00:31 so everything needs to be dead. Well, in Seattle, I guess spring just
00:34 kind of sneaks up on you and one day it's not spring and the next day it is spring.
00:39 So when I went to visit the location just a few days later, there's greenery everywhere.
00:43 And so I took some more sample pictures at the location like this.
00:47 And I wanted to see if I could bring it back on my computer and color correct it
00:52 successfully enough to make it look believable like this is an actual
00:55 desolate dead world. Now, one of the challenges that we'll see
01:00 when you're doing secondary color correction like with these leaves right
01:03 here, is that we don't want to change the colors too much.
01:06 And in order to make these look dead, I kind of want to make them look more like
01:09 these brown leaves here. And make them look dead in that way, but
01:14 that is a pretty big color shift. So, let's actually jump into Colorista II
01:18 and see how I did this. I'm going to go ahead and apply Colorista
01:22 II to more footage here and we could do some basic color correction here.
01:27 Its always a good idea, even though we're really not about this right now I can
01:31 drag this down to make shadows pop a little bit.
01:35 And we could make the highlights maybe a little bit brighter.
01:39 We could also cool these highlights down, I think that will help this feel
01:42 everything's kind of dim. We want to pull everything away from
01:46 warmth and sunlight and all those things that make things feel like they're alive.
01:50 That's already better. Before, and after.
01:53 Looking pretty good. And let's go ahead and press Cmd+2 on the
01:57 Mac, or Ctrl+2 on the PC, to jump to the secondary section.
02:01 And let's go scroll down to the secondary key, and go ahead and click Edit.
02:05 Now, again this opens up the Colorista Keyer, and we can use our wheel mouse to
02:08 zoom in, which is really what we want to do here.
02:12 And let's go ahead and use the marquee here.
02:17 And when we're zoomed in close enough, and I'll actually hold down the Spacebar,
02:21 get that Hand tool, move this into place. And then I'm going to select a
02:26 representative leaf here and just click and drag a little marquee to select that green.
02:30 Well, you can effectively see our masks right here, this black and white version.
02:36 And so, what I'm going to do now, is click the plus icon.
02:39 And just get more of that. Just click and drag over more of the
02:43 green areas. To add those to the section that we are
02:48 keying out. Now, I'll use my wheel mouse to zoom back out.
02:53 And it looks like we're getting a good representation of green here.
02:57 Now, if we wanted to, we could use this really unique interface here, where we
03:00 can adjust the hue, basically this side and this bar adjust the hue so we could
03:04 shift that along the colors, the color wheel there.
03:09 Just moving that back and forth, if we get it too blue, we lose all of our leaves.
03:14 If we get it too yellow we start selecting the trees.
03:18 So, we really want to just kind of get it there.
03:21 We can also adjust the Saturation. And so, the more we click to the right,
03:25 the more we are selecting saturated versions of our color, the more we drag
03:28 it to the left the more we are removing those and just getting desaturated areas
03:32 of our color. Looks pretty good.
03:36 The same thing with lightness here on this bar, we can click and drag upwards
03:40 to select brighter tones, or down to select darker tones.
03:44 Now, one of the things, and maybe this is just my limitation as a colorist, I don't
03:48 really understand as much as what's happening when I'm just looking at the
03:51 black and white mask. So what I like to do, is get just kind of
03:56 like a ball park like this, and then hit OK or Return, as it were.
04:00 And then make a really ugly huge tweak, like so.
04:07 Saturate this. Something that's not even close to what
04:09 I'm doing but really different from the original color.
04:13 Just so I could see my work. And then I go back Keyer and click Edit again.
04:19 And now when I zoom in here I can see much more clearly where the problem areas are.
04:24 So now, I can click the plus icon and now, I can click these extra areas here.
04:29 Ad its much clearer to understand what's happening.
04:33 Now we are getting these really rough pixels and I don't like that at all.
04:38 So one of the things that we can do is increase the softness value, from here
04:40 and just a little bit will do you. Just a little bit there.
04:45 And it's often better for me to have gradients because of the softness of the
04:49 mask rather than having these hard edges. Now, one of the things that you'll find
04:54 with secondary keying is it's almost never perfect.
04:57 You're always going to have little pockets.
04:59 And as much as you go in here and you try to select very possible pixel you could
05:02 ever want to select, you either get too many or not enough.
05:06 It's just the nature of the beast, it's very challenging to, to keep going back
05:09 and forth. And, when I actually did this color
05:13 correction, it took me a very long time, like a half hour.
05:16 So, it's not something that in, in a single tutorial we can really go over,
05:19 it's just a very tedious back and forth process we're going to do it right.
05:24 And I notice that I'm selecting a little bit too much of these trees.
05:28 this is kind of the green that we want to get with the leaves, but I really don't
05:31 want this color changing that much. So, I'm going to see if I can't select
05:36 the Minus tool here and subtract a little bit.
05:39 From the trees, and see if that takes away too much from our leaves.
05:44 My thought is it's probably going to get rid of too much from the leaves.
05:48 But that looks like it's pretty good. Actually, this is looking pretty decent.
05:54 And thankfully the, our subject matter lends itself to a little bit of forgiveness.
05:59 So if there's a little bit of green right here, we can survive.
06:03 And then, so there's a little bit of green gradient.
06:05 It's not perfect. it's okay, because nature is that way,
06:07 where it's just kind of randomness and, and color, so, it's a little mo-, more forgiving.
06:12 I'm going to click OK. I should also point out, that, this is,
06:15 this shot here, that we're working on, is a JPEG, which is terrible.
06:20 And, it's also taken from my iPhone, so this is not really the best color grade,
06:25 but my thought was, is that if I could color grade this iPhone shot, this iPhone
06:29 still photo, good enough to make it look believable.
06:35 Then, when I actually have really high quality raw footage from a red scarlet
06:39 camera, that I could do even better stuff with it.
06:44 So, what I'm going to do now is take down the saturation and I actually am liking
06:49 the way that looks. We could play with the hue if we want to.
06:55 I kind of do like that brown look. I don't want to get it to the pink range,
07:00 start going that direction, but somewhere yellow, brown.
07:05 That's looking pretty good. Might want a little bit darker, so I can
07:08 come over here to the mid tones. And because again, we've keyed out this
07:12 green, then all we're doing is we're darkening the stuff that we've keys.
07:16 So, we're just darkening those leaves and that's starting to look mighty fine.
07:21 That's looking really good. Yeah, I'm liking that.
07:25 So, now we have this great dead fill. We've taken out those really.
07:30 poppy green leaves, and just kind of made them dead.
07:34 So, now what we need to do is, going into maybe close up our secondary, and open up
07:39 our master here. And, I'll take down the master
07:44 saturation, there we go. I don't want take away too much.
07:48 That's kind of the purpose of keying out the greens.
07:51 I still want the color to be solid and obvious in the moss around and also these
07:55 dead leaves around the scene. So I, if the whole thing looks
07:59 desaturated, then it just looks like the whole thing is desaturated.
08:03 I want to look like it's dead, so having some color there is really important, so
08:07 we have some frame of reference. Also might want to take the Midtones of
08:13 the Master section over to a more cool area as well.
08:18 That adds some, some death and desolation as well.
08:23 And there we have it, there's a pretty decent version of our footage here.
08:30 And I'm going to close up Colorista II, whoa.
08:34 Looks like we have another instance of Colorista II here that I don't need.
08:38 So I'm going to select that and hit Delete.
08:40 And then we have the before, the original, and the after.
08:44 What a difference. Now again you could see because we did
08:47 take this pretty far from its original, that we do have halos, and edges like
08:50 that, and that's just the nature of the beast.
08:54 If you're going to take something and really, really change its color value.
08:58 You are going to notice problems around the edges and there's just no way around that.
09:03 You could definitely work with it more and minimize that but its never going to
09:06 be perfect because just switching one color to another color is really hard to do.
09:11 Because there's just so many nuances to colors with lighting and shadow and everything.
09:16 It's just hard to get perfect. Thankfully, again, we have a forgiving
09:20 case because of the leaves and it works, but, just be aware that, that is,
09:23 challenging to do all the time. Here is the other, if you go to color
09:27 keying colors final, here is the final example that I came up with.
09:31 A little bit more dead and a little bit more desaturated but I think we did some,
09:36 some great work here. We might want to, if you want to, to get
09:40 to this level, you might want to even saturate the blues in the midtones.
09:46 Bring those up a little bit. Oops, that's not going where I want it to go.
09:54 Dragged it up to the right. There we go.
09:58 Now, we can take down the master saturation even more.
10:01 And there we have what, what, what once was a pretty vibrant spring scene, is now
10:06 a desolate, dead but still saturated, still somewhat saturated scene.
10:13 So, this is just a little primer on how to key colors with Colorista II.
10:17
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Using the Levels histogram
00:00 I mentioned before that one of the problems of using Colorista two or any
00:03 effect that you work on in the Effect Controls Panel in After Effects is that
00:07 there really aren't any scopes typically, and so you really don't know where your
00:11 levels lie. You have your eyes of course, but
00:15 sometimes those can be deceiving. So, one of the old tricks is you can
00:19 actually use the old levels effect. I'm just going to apply the levels effect
00:24 to our little horsy footage here. And I actually have processed this and we
00:28 have the histogram and it looks pretty balanced, it looks like we're blowing out
00:31 soem highlights, I can actually see that here.
00:35 And it looks like we're maybe, crushing some shadows, probably over here, on the
00:38 right hand side. But at least now that we can see that we
00:42 have a balanced image. If I deselect Colorista two, or un-heck
00:46 it so it turns it off, we could see that our histogram updates accordingly, and
00:50 our original image, which is much more washed out, is indicated here as well.
00:55 We don't have any crushed highlights, and we also don't have any shadows to speak
00:59 of in the original. So, this is a good indication, of kind
01:03 of, what's going on with our image. One of the problems though, is if we turn
01:07 on Colorista 2 again, we'd expect that our histogram would go back to the way it
01:11 was and it does not. And if we were to open up Colorista two
01:15 and make some changes, they would not be visible in the histogram, so this is not
01:19 like a live update type thing. One of the things that you can do.
01:24 Is delete levels and apply it again. You could also go to Edit> Purge> All
01:29 Memory, and you could also Purge Image Cache Memory, and sometimes that resets
01:34 the, the cache for levels. That did not do it in this case, so
01:40 sometimes it's just best, you gotta just delete it and then apply it all over
01:43 again to make sure that that histogram is updating.
01:48 Sometimes you even have to click it and fiddle with it a little bit.
01:52 It's not an exact science. One of the other things that I've done
01:56 before is I'll use Color Finesse which comes with After Effects.
02:02 And you can Apply that. And you click Full Interface.
02:06 And load that up. And you get tons of scopes and graphs here.
02:11 You can get a, Luma Waveform Monitor here.
02:15 You can get a Vector Scope. You can get a combination of, of all the
02:18 different channels and the Vector Scope and the Waveform Monitor.
02:23 but the problem with this is that it only looks at the original footage, the source
02:27 footage so what you could do is pre-compose your Colorista stuff and then
02:31 apply Color Finesse to the pre-composed version.
02:37 But then again you lose the, the power to make changes in Colorista two without
02:41 having to go back to the child comp. It's the same thing with Magic Bullet
02:45 Looks and the Scopes there as well. Looking at the source material.
02:48 So this levels thing even though it's not a really elegant solution.
02:53 It can bail you out of a situation like this.
02:56 Where you might be actually crushing the shadows or blowing up the highlights and
03:00 not really realize it. It is not as interactive as I liked, but
03:03 it is what it is.
03:05
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Using the master controls
00:00 Before we wrap up talking about Colorista two, let's talk about the Master Controls.
00:05 So we've talked about Primary and Secondary, and there is this Master section.
00:09 If you have Colorista two selected, you can press Cmd+3 or Ctrl+3 on the PC.
00:14 that's not working for me here, so I'll just go ahead and open one of those and
00:18 you can press Ctrl or Cmd+3 to have master open up.
00:22 Apparently you need one of these open, and then it works.
00:25 So here we have our settings here, and this is kind of after you've gone though
00:29 Primary and after you've gone through Secondary, if you want to add polish to
00:33 the whole ball of wax, that's what Master is for.
00:38 A lot of these controls we've seen in both Primary and Seconary, is going to be
00:40 saying, geeze do we really need another threeway color corrector?
00:42 Do we really need another HSL? Another saturation control?
00:44 The answer is absolutely yes. A lot of times doing the primary color
00:46 correction, you're kind of getting things where you want them.
00:58 And then with Secondary, you kind of shift individual colors, and after that
01:02 you might say, you know I want the whole thing now to be de-saturated, or the
01:05 whole thing to be more warm or more cool, or whatever it is, or brighter or darker.
01:11 It happens all the time, and so this is kind of just a nice finishing effect on
01:16 your color correction also are part of the Master section, we have Curves.
01:22 I love Curves. I guess kind of, in a way admitting that
01:25 I'm a super professional colorist. It seems like most professional colorisst
01:30 prefer to use these, these wheels. But, I just love curves.
01:34 So one of the things we can do. It works a little bit weird, than you
01:37 might expect if you're used to working with curves.
01:40 Usually you click a point on the curve you kind of move it around.
01:43 That's not the way this works. What we do, is we go down to the
01:46 different sections, whether it's RGB, or red or green or blue, and adjust
01:49 different options. So, if we want to create the s curve,
01:53 where we typically, you know, brighten the highlights a little bit and then
01:56 darken the shadows, we just click and drag on RGB Contrast and increase that,
01:59 and it does an s curve. For us which in the case of this really
02:04 washed out landscape is really helpful. Now I don't want to brighten the
02:09 highlights too much more than that actually.
02:13 So I'll go over to the Shadows and drag those down a little bit, and now we're
02:17 getting a lot more richness out of what we're what's going on here in our image.
02:23 And I think I want to fiddle with that a little bit but before we do that any more
02:27 let's go and play with some colors. I want to go to the green curves and I
02:32 want to go to the green mids and I want to boost that a little bit so we have a
02:36 little bit more green here in the. The mid tones here of the hills.
02:42 And actually I'll bump up the, the green in the shadows a little bit.
02:45 There's a bunch of dark green trees here. That looks pretty good.
02:49 Maybe it's a little over-kill with the green shadow and mids.
02:53 Lets take that down just a little bit. Maybe go over to the blue curves.
02:57 We've actually adjust the highs. I might want to add a little blue to the sky.
03:02 And as we increase that, we see a little bit more blue in the sky.
03:05 That's bringing us a little bit more, contrast in the highs there because the
03:09 camera actually recorded these multiple levels of detail.
03:14 These different hills, and these different again layers of depth.
03:19 Because of the fog, it's all kind of blending together though.
03:22 So as a colorist, it's our job or might be our job to pull those out.
03:26 One of the things we can also do is take down the RGB highs back in the right RGB section.
03:33 That's kind of just washing everything out though.
03:36 So maybe I'll click this and just zero it back out again.
03:39 Now this is actually pretty cool. In this exercise file, I've actually gone
03:42 ahead, if you go back to the secondary section, I can just press Cmd or Ctrl+ 2,
03:46 if I'm too lazy to go open it up. It's currently Bypass, so Un-bypass the
03:51 secondary, and I've added this, kind of, blue wash.
03:56 Over the highlights here. Just added some blue to the highlights,
03:59 that's it. Didn't touch the shadows or mid tones or
04:01 anything else. Just blue to the highlights.
04:04 But I want to do is restrict the blue to the highlights so that it's only in this
04:09 section which darkens the highlights, adds a little bit more sky and also
04:12 brings out more detail in our depth field here, our depth planes.
04:19 So one of the things that I'm going to do, or I could do, is add a mask here.
04:23 But we could also go back down to our Master Section, and there's another Power
04:27 Mask in our Master Section which is really cool and very helpful.
04:31 I'll go to the Master Mask> Rectangular, and I'll go ahead and move this mask up
04:36 in the sky, stretch this out and we could actually go back to the corners here of
04:42 the rectangular mask, and that will rotate it.
04:49 So, that looks pretty good right about there.
04:53 Now the problem is, is that the Master Mask Mode default is Restrict Entire Effect.
04:59 So if you want all the color correction from Primary, Secondary, and Master.
05:03 To be masked off. You can use the master power mask.
05:07 I've said before in previous tutorials in this chapter that you can't mask off the
05:10 primaries, for example the primary controls.
05:14 And that's not technically true. You could create a primary color
05:18 correction, and then mask it using this master power mode, restrict the entire effect.
05:26 But that would leave the rest of your image untouched.
05:29 That's not what we want here, so what I'm actually going to do is, click Add to
05:32 Secondary, which is essentially the same thing as the secondary mask.
05:36 We get a little bit too much blue on these edges, so I'll move that back up,
05:40 and we could actually go back to our secondary color correction here.
05:47 Maybe we'll darken that a little bit Maybe we could make it even more blue and
05:52 there you have it. We have a nice color grade here.
05:57 If we want to with our Master again, if we want to add a little bit more maybe
06:01 green to the mid-tones here. We can move things in that direction.
06:05 Again, we want to be a little bit, a little bit careful.
06:08 But now we have what is a much improved image.
06:12 We've massed off the secondary control from the master controls.
06:17 And we have all of this power and flexibility in the Master Section for
06:20 finishing our image. If we go up all the way to the top.
06:25 Turn off Color Restitute. We can see the before and the much
06:28 improved after.
06:30
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6. Removing Noise with Denoiser
About Denoiser
00:00 In this chapter, we're going to look at another application in the Magic Bullet Suite.
00:04 That is Denoiser, specifically Denoiser II, which is the big improvement and kind
00:08 of the big overhaul from the original Denoiser.
00:11 And this is an incredible little tool for removing noise.
00:16 Here we have this clip from this short film I did called Godlizza, and this is
00:21 just an outtake here. So it's uncorrected, ungraded, and you
00:27 could just really see the, the noise here.
00:31 There was tons of it. It seems like we were shooting in really
00:34 low light, but I was experimenting with miniatures with a kind of big sensor camera.
00:40 So in order to get this to look huge, I had to stop down all the way on my
00:44 camera, basically lowering the exposure as much as it would go.
00:49 I think I was shooting here at like an f22, or some ridiculously high number
00:53 like that. And basically, what that does, is it
00:56 makes everything in focus, but it does close off a lot of the light.
01:00 And so, as a result, we have this really grainy, noisy image.
01:05 And, if I zoom in here a little bit more, you can actually see that noise a little
01:09 bit better. Again, this is what happens when a lot
01:12 when you shoot in low light. very common situation, it's just the
01:16 nature of the beast with film or video. Now, if I just apply Denoiser, I turn
01:21 this on. And look at how much more pristine that
01:25 image is. And it looks so much more smooth.
01:30 Now, I'm going to not do Denoiser any favors.
01:33 I'm going to blow this up even more to 400%, so we can see that noise.
01:41 This is the original. And now, when we go back.
01:45 Look even on that sleeve there. Oh, it's atrocious.
01:48 And as we turn on Denoiser, look at how much cleaner that is, even at 400%.
01:54 It's a great tool to remove noise.So we're going to be looking a little bit
01:58 more at that in the rest of this chapter. Be aware that the host applications for
02:04 Denoiser are After Effects Premiere and Final Cut Pro 7 only.
02:10 I should also point out that if you have an old version of Denoiser, even 1.3 of
02:15 Denoiser II, I strongly recommend upgrading to version 1.4 which actually
02:19 I've neglected to do. So do as I say, not as I do.
02:24 But version 1.4 has GPU acceleration even for OpenCL cards.
02:30 Which is, most cards are going to either support OpenGL, OpenCL, and they are now
02:34 accelerated so that the Denoising process goes even faster.
02:39 Denoiser II really is one of the absolute best noise reduction plugins out there
02:44 for those hope, host applications. So, let's dig a little bit deeper into
02:49 Denoiser II.
02:51
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Customizing noise reduction
00:00 We're now going to dog a little deeper into the world of noise reduction and I
00:04 will give you this disclaimer, that we will probably be getting more into noise
00:07 reduction than most of you want to get. So, I'm going to go and order,
00:13 chronologically, in this tutorial, from probably the most useful information to
00:18 the most esoteric and kind of boring information.
00:22 So that way. As soon as you are bored, and its stuff
00:25 that you don't think is helpful, then you can just close the movie and move on.
00:28 And then you can just come back to it for reference if you have a noise reduction project.
00:33 So what I'm going to to do here, as I'm starting from scratch, the customizing
00:36 noise reduction composition. I have my Godlizza outtake footage selected.
00:40 We're just going to start from scratch here.
00:42 I'm just going to apply De-noiser to, actually I just want to show you
00:44 something real quick. I'm going to change my resolution to
00:48 half, and even though I'm at 100%, I''m going to change this to half, I apply
00:52 De-noiser 2, not De-noiser 1, so I have some other Red Giant plugins another
00:56 suite installed, for example, the Key Correct suite, the keying suite.
01:02 And it has the KC Denoiser, the composite wizard also has De-noiser.
01:07 These are old, you want De-noiser 2 in Magic Bullet suite.
01:10 That's the good one. Now one of the things that's very
01:12 interesting is when you first apply it, it should work right away.
01:17 But if you are not at full resolution regardless of your magnification, if you
01:22 are not at full resolution, then it will not work.
01:27 And as soon as you put this, into Full Mode, then it will automatically snap
01:32 into action, and reduce noise. But again, as long as you are not in full
01:39 resolution that you will not see any noise reduction whatsoever.
01:43 This can be a really big source of frustration cause I typically don't work
01:46 in full resolution. Now, here's another gotcha.
01:50 When you first apply De-noiser 2 whatever your current frame happens to be, that is
01:55 what, that's the frame that De-noiser 2 is going to use as the reference frame
01:59 for the noise reduction. So, that means if you are fading in from
02:05 black or something else, you might not be on the exact right frame for De-noiser 2
02:09 to use. So you want to do then is move to a good
02:14 representative frame and then click the Sample button in the frame sample area.
02:20 And then Denoiser 2 will use that frame as the sample frame.
02:24 Now if you are working on footage that has a production slate.
02:28 Like this, little clapper in front of it. This is one the best things you can do
02:33 for De-noiser 2, is use this as your reference frame.
02:36 There's a lot of flat areas in the slate that are great for getting noise.
02:41 A lot of times, De-noiser gets confused, say for example this pattern right here.
02:45 She has like this. Kind of a rough fabric right here.
02:49 So, De-noiser might look at that fabric and see some of the, the texture in that
02:52 fabric and get confused and think it's noise.
02:56 So, when you look at a slate, it's just completely flat.
02:59 And it makes a great reference area, a great reference frame for Denoiser to
03:03 look at, and see what the noise actually looks like.
03:07 And that really helps in the removal process.
03:09 Now let's go back to our main comp here. Now one of the most basic settings is the
03:13 noise reduction amount. We could increase this up to 300% and as
03:17 we do we're going to soften details but we're also going to remove more noise.
03:22 So this definitely looks smoother. Really good actually, but it does start
03:27 to make things a little soft. We could also go the opposite way, if we
03:30 want something more gritty, maybe we could.
03:32 Just do like a little like, 30, 40% noise reduction, in which case, its still going
03:36 to be fairly grainy and a little bit more crisp as well.
03:41 Now after you do noise reduction one of the things its a good idea to do is to do
03:44 a little bit of sharpening. Thankfully there's actually built in
03:49 sharpening here in the enhancement value in De-noiser 2 and we can actually bump
03:53 this up a little bit if we want to and Red Giant recommends that you are careful
03:57 with this enhancement. You could take this all the way up to 100%.
04:02 But then you start seeing haloing and artifacts in most footage.
04:06 So you typically don't want to go even above 50%, usually around 30 will get the
04:11 job done. If you're feeling like your footage is
04:15 already a little bit too sharp, and you don't want this you can of course remove
04:17 it, take it down all the way. But using a setting of about 30 brings
04:22 back a lot of that crispness. See look at the texture in the helmet there.
04:27 I'll take this down to zero and it just gets a little bit softer.
04:31 So 30% brings that back and it looks great.
04:35 Now a couple of other things that help. In the Advanced settings, there is
04:38 Footage Source, but it all is set to Video.
04:41 But they recommend, and the other option is film, but if you're using a cinema
04:45 camera like the red camera then checking this and changing this to Film can
04:49 actually improve what you're doing. I haven't really experimented with this,
04:56 with other cinema-like cameras like the Black Magic Cinema Camera for example,
04:59 but you might get better results because the dynamic ranges are little bit more filmic.
05:05 You might get better results by changing this to Film other than Video.
05:08 And actually if I zoom in really close here, this is 200%.
05:13 You can see a difference between Video, and Film.
05:18 It's really subtle. Maybe if I take this up all the way,
05:20 it'll be a little bit more clear. There's Film and then there's Video.
05:24 So a little bit of a difference there. I want to take this back to film.
05:28 Take noise reduction back to 100%. Another thing that you'll notice if you
05:32 have problems with De-noiser or any noise application.
05:36 It really has a hard time, noise reduction applications, have a hard with motion.
05:40 A lot of times there's noise in motion and it's really hard to take that out and
05:44 actually still get motion blur. Looking like it should look.
05:48 So, there is this great Motion Estimation feature.
05:52 You can click this, and it will do a better job, a more, eh, enhanced job, of
05:55 removing the noise from blurred and moving objects, like this.
06:01 Now the downside, of course, is that it does slow down your render time.
06:03 And, if we go down, in the Advanced settings, to Noise Hint ME, the ME stands
06:08 for Motion Estimation. This is kind of, some extra bells and
06:12 whistles to help out the Motion Estimation.
06:15 Medium is a good setting. High makes things render a little bit
06:19 quicker, Low actually is like slow and low and slows things down but it does do
06:24 a more accurate look at the motion in the shot.
06:29 For now, I'm going to take this back to Medium and take off Motion Estimation.
06:33 Another really interesting thing about this is the ability to fine-tune the
06:37 noise reduction. I'm just going to take this back to video
06:40 to make it a little bit easier to understand.
06:43 And what I'm going to do is, I want you to, to look at the noise reduction
06:46 setting here. It goes from zero to 300%.
06:50 This is the scale of noise reduction for this tool.
06:53 Zero to 300%. Because when we open up Luma Offset and
06:56 Chroma Offset. As well as Highlight Offset and Shadow Offset.
07:01 These really are the four main choices that we have when we're fine tuning the
07:06 noise reduction. And you'll notice that each of these has
07:12 a scale of 300%. And as we increase let's say noise
07:17 reduction to 300% Then it means that we cannot increase these values, the offsets
07:22 anymore because the limit of noise reduction has been achieved.
07:29 So while we're at 100%, we still have 200% more to go to fine tune.
07:36 So if we want to renew, remove more noise from the luminance, the brightness.
07:41 Then we would increase the luma offset. If we wanted to remove more noise from
07:46 all colors, we could increase the chroma offset.
07:49 Same thing with the shadows. And it's actually better, and a lot of
07:52 times you get noise if you're, you using dark footage, footage that's shot when in
07:57 too low light situation, that often times you'll want to remove more noise from the shadows.
08:04 And so this shadow offset becomes a really helpful parameter.
08:08 Highlight offset, I actually don't notice noise in the highlights very often, so
08:13 you might want to take this down, which will give you more latitude to take.
08:19 Noise, out of the shadows and increase that even more.
08:22 Likewise, if you change your footage source to film, you have red, green and
08:26 blue channels, so, if you know. Like say, for example, with the red
08:30 camera, it tends to under expose than the blue channel, and it creates more noise
08:33 there, in the blue channel, then we could increase the noise reduction in just the
08:37 blue channel. Now, one last tip.
08:42 Sometimes the, Denoiser doesn't know exactly where to look to get rid of noise.
08:47 So, what we can do is click Show Noise Detection.
08:50 And we get these little dots. And this is where.
08:53 De-noiser is looking to remove noise. If you're finding that increasing the
08:58 noise reduction or decreasing the noise reduction isn't doing too much, it's
09:01 possible the denoiser just can't see where the noise is.
09:05 So if we want it to look in more places for the noise, we could increase the
09:09 noise detection level and then we actually physically seeing where these
09:13 dots are and that's forcing the Denoiser to look in more spots for noise.
09:20 In this image for example, I'm seeing most of the noise.
09:22 The most obvious noise to my eyes is, here where these buildings are.
09:27 So I might want to increase the noise detection level, until I get enough
09:31 little dots on these boxes here. These little mini buildings.
09:36 So that I know that denoiser understands where the noise is.
09:40 And of course, while you're seeing noise detection, there actually is no noise
09:43 detection going on, so we need to uncheck that, to then have De-noiser look at the
09:47 image and remove the noise accordingly. Boy, what a beautiful reduction of noise,
09:53 unbelievable, there's the before and there's the after.
09:57 Still these fine, subtle details in the texture of her clothes, as well as the
10:01 roughness of buildings. It's all being preserved very well, even
10:05 through the noise removal, which is absolutely incredible.
10:10 So I hope I didn't overwhelm you in this tuttorial, with all of the features of
10:13 the noise, but sometimes you're doing noise reduction.
10:17 It does kind of create weird glitches sometimes.
10:19 I've never seen that with denoiser. I've seen that with other noise reduction
10:22 plugins but its just good to be aware of these tools and how to use them.
10:26 So in case something does spring up on you or you're in the middle of a
10:29 production or post production you have deadlines you're not stuck and you know
10:32 what to do.
10:34
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7. Adjusting Skin Tones with Cosmo
About Cosmo
00:00 In this chapter, we're going to take a look at Magic Bullet Cosmo, which is a
00:03 tool just for working with skin tones, getting them as they should be in the
00:07 right place, as far as color is concerned, and also looking as beautiful
00:10 as possible. And there's some really great shortcuts
00:16 here that make skin tone look fantastic. I kind of wish that I had Cosmo on my
00:20 face all the time in real life, especially in high school, but I digress.
00:25 Anyways, we're going to look at this in this chapter, and really there's nothing
00:29 more important that skin tones. We recognize so many blemishes right off
00:33 the bat. It's one of the things that make people
00:36 look beautiful or sickly or healthy, and it's really important we get those skin
00:40 tones and the look of skin just right. So I have here this footage, and this is
00:46 the raw, ungraded stuff from the camera. I applied Colorista Two to get it to more
00:50 of the way that I saw it when we shot it, and it's kind of like this film noir look.
00:57 And she has beautiful skin and the day that we were shooting the model had a
01:01 bunch of make up on and she was changing looks constantly.
01:07 And so there's a few little bumps on her skin that I would love to smooth out.
01:12 So it, I applied Colorista to, like I said to get everything back in order,
01:15 which is really important for what I'm about to show you.
01:19 You really have to get the skin tones where they ought to be before applying
01:23 Cosmo, at least in the ballpark. So, if I were to apply Cosmo with this,
01:27 nothing would happen. So, I got it in the ballpark, and then I
01:30 applied Cosmo, and watch this. Boom.
01:33 Instantly smooths out the texture in the skin, and it also evens out the skin tones.
01:40 So let's look at that. Just, just did a full application.
01:42 Here's the before and the after. Before and the after.
01:47 So especially with her blush which is actually really softly applied, and
01:51 there's also a shadow underneath her cheek here.
01:55 And, still, all those things, are just smoothed out a little bit.
01:59 It still looks very natural, still looks very realistic, just smoothed it out a
02:03 little bit. And we have, still have a lot of room to
02:06 play around. So, that's what we're going to be looking
02:08 at in the next movie, a little bit more detail on what these values do, and how
02:12 to really customize Cosmo, to get your skin looking the way it ought to.
02:17 Now, a quick word about compatibility here.
02:20 It works in After Effects, Premiere Pro, and Final Cut 6 and 7, as well as Apple
02:25 Motion 3 and 4. So, those are the host applications that
02:30 Cosmo will work in. I should also point out that if you want
02:33 to buy Cosmo as a stand alone, it's only $99, pretty cheap for a plugin of this caliber.
02:39 Anyway, let's go ahead and dig in and learn a little bit more about Cosmo.
02:43
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Customizing Cosmo
00:00 Using this as an example, let's go ahead and dig a little deeper and see what
00:03 Cosmo does. I'm going to apply Cosmo to my footage here.
00:07 And again, I have applied Colorista 2, here's the original and here's with the
00:11 basic color correction. To kind of gets things where they need to be.
00:15 And I can go ahead and check the Show Skin overlay here in Cosmo.
00:21 to make sure that we're on the right track here.
00:23 To make sure that's enabled to see that. It's the same exact thing that we have in
00:26 Colorista in the Options. We had the show skin overlay here, I
00:29 could turn it off here and we could see it there.
00:32 Same thing, same thing as in Magic Bullet looks as well.
00:35 Now the's parameters are actually fairly simple, but to be honest with you, I've
00:39 had to read the documentation word for word several times.
00:44 I guess I'm a little slower than the average Joe, but I've, I've had to study
00:47 up on what these me-, these things mean because the names of them are not very clear.
00:54 So I want to check Show Skin Overlay so I can see what we're doing.
00:58 And I want you to notice the the skin graph on her face showing us where there
01:02 are proper skin tones, and where there are not.
01:06 Notice where she has a little bit of blush on her face, it's breaking up, and
01:09 it's kind of going out of the limitations of what an acceptable skin tone is.
01:14 And that's fine because it's, it's blush, it's not necessarily a flesh tone.
01:19 I should also point out that a lot of the adjustments we're going to be making here
01:22 are very subtle. I might even want to zoom in to 100% so
01:26 we can really see what's going on here. Because again, a lot of these changes are
01:30 subtle as they should be. Now the first thing that we come up
01:34 against here is skin color. This will help us, actually I'm going to
01:37 zoom out it's a little close for comfort there, the skin color as we take this
01:41 down, we're going to be adding a little bit more maroon to the skin.
01:47 So if you're finding that your skin tone's a little bit cool, or if you've
01:50 been in a fluorescent lighting and it's not white-balanced and there's maybe a
01:54 green tint, taking it to a negative value is great.
01:58 Opposite is true if its a little bit on the warm side, adding a positive value
02:02 will add more green and so there is a great a Star Trek alien for you there but
02:07 of course if you take it to too positive of a value its going to be.
02:14 Too greenish. So usually subtle adjustments are great,
02:17 and again I really prefer to do my color correction before applying Cosmo.
02:23 I, I like using Cosmo as kind of like a fine tuner, but it's not really a great balance.
02:27 Again, the skin color is more like a green magenta control, rather than a real
02:31 true skin color adjustment. And I actually want to take this back
02:36 down, probably to about zero, where our blush is a little bit out of it and our
02:40 forehead is looking good. Now this skin squeeze is very interesting.
02:46 What skin squeeze does is that it squeezes all the different tones on a
02:51 face into conformity with what a flesh tone should be.
02:57 So watch this space on her face, and also notice the little cracks right here,
03:00 where we're breaking up and not getting flesh tones.
03:03 As I increase Skin Squeeze, watch those areas, notice that they all of a sudden
03:07 come into conformity and now we have all these areas which are acceptable areas.
03:13 It took that rouge on her face and it made it more of a flesh tone and made it
03:16 again, it conformed everything. Into a normal flesh tone.
03:21 So, if you have somebody with, like a splotchy face, or a messy complexion, or
03:24 if the makeup is too much, then you can increase Skin Squeeze, all the way up to 100%.
03:30 If this was my face, we'd probably increase to about, , 6 billion percent.
03:36 But, for regular people, we can keep this down to maybe more about 50%.
03:42 I really do like the ability to kind of make these skin tones a little bit more uniform.
03:47 But again, I do like the fact that we can see a little bit of her blush, and we
03:49 don't want to take away all the characteristics of her face.
03:52 That's the, the real danger when using Cosmo, is that you might have a tendency
03:55 to over-do everything and make everybody look like a cartoon character.
03:59 And we just don't have perfect skin all that often.
04:03 It just doesn't, doesn't really happen, and there isn't perfect uniformity so we
04:06 want to keep some of these details here. Now the next parameter is very
04:10 interesting, it's skin soften. And what this does is that it tends to
04:14 soften the details in the face, which is great for beauty makeup and the like.
04:20 I'll un-check Show Skin Overlay so we can see the skin a little bit more clearly here.
04:24 And we'll zoom in. And as I increase skin soften, you notice
04:28 these details kind of smooth out a little bit.
04:31 And you'll also notice that it's very easy to make this look really, really
04:35 cheesy, like a 1990's thriller movie poster or a cheesy movie.
04:41 But, it's, it's definately overkill so I'm going to take this back down to about 30.
04:47 Now, one of the things that's very interesting about this plugin, this is
04:50 one of the things that was kind of confusing to me.
04:52 Is that there is this Skin Soften Fine Tuning.
04:55 This basically controls the Skin Soften parameter and what is affected by the
05:00 Skin Soften parameter. So I'm going to open this up, and before
05:04 I adjust Skin Finder and Skin Tolerance, I'm going to check Show Skin Selection.
05:10 I'll go ahead and apply that there. And basically this is a really creepy
05:14 looking mask. It is actually using technology from
05:17 Colorista 2, the keyer that we looked at earlier.
05:19 The same keyer as here in Cosmo but just for skin tones.
05:23 So as we adjust Skin Finder we increase or decrease what Cosmo is seeing as skin tones.
05:32 So we might want to get it kind of close to here and.
05:36 I that eck of the woods and then we could adjust skin tolerance to get more skin
05:40 tones as we increase the value or less as we drag it down.
05:45 Now again this only affects what the skin softening is going to soften.
05:50 If we were going to take this to like a really.
05:54 Really shallow value, that's just maybe like, just like the edge of her cheek or
05:57 what have you. Maybe even more a little bit than that.
06:00 Let's just say her forehead here. And then we're going to uncheck Show Skin
06:03 Selection, and increase, increase the softening.
06:07 Notice that we're not having the softening on these other areas of her
06:10 cheek only up here on her forehead where the Skin Selection is so there's the Skin
06:15 Selection we can take this down to zero and we get a softening back again just in
06:19 her forehead and right in this area right here.
06:25 So I'm going to go check the Show Skin Selection again and get this back to
06:28 where we're kind of getting most of her face in here.
06:33 And that's looking pretty good, and then now we can take the skin soften back up
06:37 to about 30 or so, even that's a little overkill maybe about 25, and then we
06:41 finally have this detail parameter which will restore more detail that we lose
06:45 when we're doing skin softening. It's basically kind of like sharpening.
06:51 As I zoom in a little bit here again on her cheek this is where the most
06:54 noticeable softening is happening. And if I increase this too much we can go
06:59 up to 500% actually. But as we increase this too much then
07:03 you'll notice that we start getting some kind of sharpening artifacts on her skin
07:06 it looks haloed and again really cartoony and fake.
07:10 So I'll take this down maybe to about 100.
07:13 And maybe thats still a little bit too strong even maybe 60 and we get a little
07:17 bit more detail back there. If I take it down to zero you notice that
07:22 it definately looks a little bit more soft.
07:27 And there's at 160 and we'll go back down let's say to about 70 I think that's a safe.
07:34 The safe value here so now we can adjust maybe give a little bit more softening
07:39 and we now have a, a beautiful result. And I can turn off Show Skin Selection
07:46 and see the before and the after. It was by no means a jump from hideous to beautiful.
07:53 But it already looked pretty good, and we're just making it a little bit better.
07:58 These are very subtle adjustments, but they definitely look so much better.
08:02 And again because Cosmo is working on, a certain area of skin tone.
08:08 And the selection area the key is very soft.
08:11 You can apply this to motion people moving and its still only going to affect
08:14 the skin tones. However if you notice that there are
08:18 other objects in the shot that are kind of skin tonish you'll notice that hey
08:22 also will be affected so its something you gotta watch out for.
08:27 You might want to apply it maybe to an adjustment layer that you mask off.
08:30 Or some such that you can control just around her face.
08:33 Now as we back out this does look a little strong as far the detail concern
08:37 so let me take this down to 40. I also might want to make sure that I'm
08:41 at full resolution and take this up to 100% to make sure that what we're seeing
08:45 here is the actual image and not kind of in an approximation.
08:51 Boy, what what a beautiful effect now,This is before and after, before and after.
08:56 Just a great professional polish for skin tones.
08:59
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8. Using Mojo
About Mojo
00:00 Now we're going to take a quick look at Magic Bullet Mojo.
00:03 I actually love Mojo, it's a really interesting little effect, and it's
00:07 meant, just to give a nice Hollywood punch, to your footage.
00:12 It's not meant to take the place of Colorista or Looks, where we're kind of
00:16 building a color grade from scratch. It's meant to be kind of like polish, on
00:21 top of everything else. So what it does is that warms the
00:25 highlights and it cools down the shadows. It pulls those apart which is a very
00:31 cinematic look. So here we have the same footage that we
00:35 dealt with in the last chapter where we had it just this plain maroon tinted
00:39 footage that didn't look all that great. And it certainly doesn't look cinematic
00:45 or professional. Color correction gets it back into, where
00:49 its looking okay. Using Colorista 2, I added a vignette and
00:52 starting to look a little bit more cinematic but still not all that great.
00:57 Let's zoom in a little bit close to her face here, we did Cosmo in the last
01:00 chapter, that smooths things out considerably and makes the flesh looks so
01:03 perfect and. just in a great cinematic way.
01:08 And then with Mojo, and I enable this, boom.
01:11 Look at that. We take the face tones, we warm them up,
01:14 and we pull the, everything away from the face tones, so now the shadows get more
01:19 blue and green a little bit. And this absolutely looks like something
01:27 out of a movie, again here is the absolute before with Colorista, Cosmo and Mojo.
01:35 So you can see again how all these work together to create this really great work
01:38 of art, so were going to be looking more at Mojo in the next movie, and I'll show
01:41 you what all of the bells and whistles do.
01:45 But really the key thing here is that it gives our footage almost like an interpretation.
01:51 We're actually saying something when we use Mojo.
01:54 Without Mojo, even though the colors are all in the right spot, blah, blah, blah,
01:59 but when I put my cursor over these whites, they're pretty much just gray.
02:05 They're just lifeless whites. Everything is where it technically should be.
02:10 But again, movies need to say something. Narrative work needs to say something.
02:14 Needs to have an opinion. And so when we apply Mojo, we actually
02:17 now have Warmed up these Highlights, we've cooled down the shadows and it
02:21 really does look like we are trying to say something which is what makes things
02:24 look cinematic. Now, of course, if you're doing
02:29 television work or if you're doing, you know, reality stuff or documentary, you
02:33 probably won't want to use Mojo this heavy-handed.
02:36 But just because I went all extreme here it doesn't mean that you have to, there's
02:40 definitely a lot of really subtle dialing at back you can do within Mojo.
02:45 I use Mojo very frequently. I actually use Mojo a lot on this app The
02:49 Princess and The Pink rush that I'm creating for the iPad.
02:54 And just to give it a nice little polish, all the elements are composite.
02:57 It was all shot against a green screen. So to make things kind of come alive, I
03:00 kind of needed Mojo to give it that extra little bit of polish.
03:05 I used it throughout. There's this big cloud scene where we
03:08 kind of fly through the clouds. And here in this throne room.
03:13 And all of these elements are just composited, none of these people ever met
03:15 each other. It was all shot in my basement green screen.
03:19 And so Mojo just added this really nice polish at the end to kind of tie all the
03:23 elements together in a really cinematic way.
03:26 I'm really happy with it, and happy to be able to share it with you.
03:29 Just a word about the host applications it works in After Effects and Premiere of
03:33 course, but it also works in Final Cut Pro 6 and 7, and the new version, version
03:37 10, same thing with Apple Motion. The old stuff and the new version as well.
03:43 And having Mojo in so many host applications is a fantastic thing,
03:46 especially for things like Premier Pro, which can, needs a little bit of help
03:49 when it comes to color correction, it's really fantastic.
03:54 So, let's go on to the next movie where we're going to look at all of these
03:57 settings in Mojo and figure out how this puppy works.
04:00
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Customizing Mojo
00:00 So let's look more at Mojo's, there's actually more to it than it might seem.
00:04 I'm going to go ahead and apply Mojo, to our bad guys, footage here, just drag and
00:08 drop that. Instantly, we see a great coolness,
00:12 applied, literally and figuratively, we have our shadows, which most of this
00:17 image is shadow. And, I, I use this as our example here,
00:21 because it's mostly just skin tone and shadow.
00:24 So it's really easy to see what, what Mojo is doing.
00:27 So again, what Mojo is doing here is it's warming the highlights and skin tones,
00:31 and it's cooling off the shadows which creates again a very cinematic look.
00:38 Now let's talk about some of these controls over here in the effects
00:41 controls panel Now really there are 3 different sections going on here.
00:45 There's Mojo, Mojo tint and Mojo balance. We'll call those the Mojo controls,
00:49 because they all have Mojo in the title. And there's warm it, punch it, and bleach it.
00:54 They refer to those as the it Controls. And there's also the skin controls, These
00:58 are similar to what was saw in Cosmo, such as with skin color and skin squeeze,
01:02 but there's a new value here called skin solo, which is different that what we've
01:05 seen before, so we'll talk about that. So lets talk about what the Mojo
01:11 parameters do first. Mojo itself does a couple of things.
01:16 Number one, it increases the actual effects, so it increases the warming of
01:20 the highlights and the bluing of the shadows, if you will.
01:26 It also, really increases the intensity of the effect.
01:29 So. As we take this down to zero, nothign
01:32 else really works, even Mojo Tint, Mojo Balance are just greyed out, You still
01:35 can use the It controls, but the basic finctionality of what Mojo itself is
01:39 doing as its warmign the highlights and cooling the shadows, that goes out the window.
01:46 I'm going to go ahead and click reset and I'm going to increase this quite a bit so
01:49 that when we adjust Mojo Tint and Mojo Balance, its pretty obvious what's happening.
01:54 Now, mojo tint actually changes the hue of the shadows, so as we take this down,
02:00 we are making the shadows more blue. As we go to a negative value, these even
02:07 become almost purple. Let me increase.
02:12 Maybe decrease mojo a little bit so we can see this a little bit more clearly.
02:16 A matter of fact I'm going to go back to colorista 2 and I'm going to increase the
02:20 midtones in the primary section and maybe even brighten up the shadows a little bit
02:23 so we can see a little bit more clearly what's happening.
02:29 So there you see we have these purple shadows, and I will increase mojo tint,
02:35 and now they are becoming blue as we go to smaller values above zero, and then
02:40 they become green as we get to a higher value, even becoming green green, which
02:45 you probably wouldn't want, but these are the ranges of.
02:54 Colors that you might want to be opposite skin tones.
02:58 I usually like to go with like a cyan look in most cases.
03:02 Now let me increase mojo again, a little bit more now that we've brightened the
03:05 shadows and the highlights a little bit. One of the things you'll start to notice
03:09 as you crank up mojo, everything tends to become a little bit more Greenish.
03:15 So one of the things that is really helpful is this mojo balance because it
03:19 lets you determine what are shadows and what are highlights.
03:24 So if you take this to a lower value, it's going to assume that more tones are
03:28 highlights and less tones are shadows. So you'll see Kind of a warming effect
03:34 but it's not really a warming effect per say.
03:38 What's it really doing is it's accepting more tones as highlight and less tones
03:42 and shadow. The opposite is also true.
03:45 As we increase this value, we're saying, okay Mojo, I'll give you the permission
03:49 to accept more mid tone as shadows and even highlight the shadow if we go up to
03:53 really high values. So I don't like to take these to extreme
03:58 values in most cases. So I'm going to leave this set to about
04:02 the default here. So again just to sum up before moving on.
04:06 Mojo warms up the highlights and cools down the shadows.
04:12 And also adds some contrast. Mojo tint refers to the color of the
04:19 shadow areas. Mojo balance refers to the balance
04:23 between what is shadows and what is highlights.
04:26 Now the It controls are much easier to understand, the Warm-it control basically
04:30 controls warmth and coolness, so as you drag to the right we are warming up our
04:34 whole scene, as we drag to the left we are cooling down our whole scene.
04:41 You might say well what's the difference between Warm-it and just using another
04:45 Color tool to warm stuff and cool stuff. The benefit here, is that we also have
04:51 Mojo happening, so even if we cool things off a lot, we still have more details in
04:55 the highlights and more oranges in flesh tones, in the highlights, than we
04:59 normally would because Mojo is working. With the regular color temperature
05:06 sliders, as we cool things down we tend to lose those flesh tones really quick.
05:10 Now I'm just going to go ahead and click reset here because this is looking pretty
05:12 ugly to me. I'm going to increase Mojo and we'll
05:15 actually adjust the balance, so we have a little bit less, then we have highlights
05:19 and I actually want to cool this down a little bit and then punch it, controls
05:23 the contrast. As we drag it to the right, we are
05:27 increasing contrast. And as you drag it to the left, we're
05:30 decreasing contrast. There's a little bit going on with
05:33 saturation here, as we increase it, we're actually losing saturation a little bit
05:38 but it's contrast is it's main control. And then we also have Bleach it, which is
05:42 basically saturation. And so as we drag it to the right, we're
05:45 de-saturating, we're bleaching it. And we drag it to a negative value, we
05:49 are saturating it, because we are removing the bleach essentially.
05:53 Now I'm going to go down to the skin section, and check Show Skin Overlay, so
05:56 we can see the skin. And we have this skin color value just
06:00 like we saw in Cosmo, so we can move this around until we see more skin tone, I'll
06:04 just zoom in here. So see little more closer again, a little
06:09 bit of skin tone and so I might want to increase skin squeeze which conforms more
06:13 colors to actually be similar that are flesh ton related and so I can move this
06:17 skin color around really having a hard time saying skin tone here because our
06:21 flesh is so washed out and desaturated. And we'll get there, we'll get there
06:29 eventually, as long as we have a few little blocks right here, we have some
06:33 flesh tones, we know we're on the right track.
06:37 Now, there is another option here called Skin Solo, which is really interesting.
06:41 And again we haven't seen that yet. What this does, is that it attempts to
06:44 make a more unified color palette. By making the flesh tones pop, and
06:49 everything else become less saturated. Now there's really not too much going on,
06:54 color wise, in this scene, so this isn't good example, so we're going to go back
06:56 to our Spy Comp in the same, the same project here, that we've been working with.
07:01 And, notice, as I increase the Skin Solo, it's actually leaving the flesh the same,
07:05 so when I first played around with Mojo, I didn't read the manual, I was just
07:09 kind of playing around with it. And I noticed that as I increased skin
07:14 solo, I didn't really see much of a difference in the skin tones, and that's
07:17 because it changes everything but the skin tones.
07:21 So if I increase skin solo all the way up to 100%, you notice that we've taken a
07:24 lot of saturation out of everything else. And her skin tone just really puffs, and
07:29 that's what's left, is just the skin tone.
07:32 Now, what's interesting about Mojo is that Mojo actually prox...processes the
07:36 skin controls before it processes the Mojo controls.
07:39 So, a lot of times, you can't really see anything happening Because the changes
07:43 that you've added with Mojo will kind of counteract the changes that you've done
07:46 with Skin Cell. So if I take this down to zero, it will
07:50 be really clear in every case what's happening with skin cell.
07:55 It's basically desaturating that dress which is making her skin tone pop a
07:59 little more. I actually prefer it somewhere.
08:03 In the middle, maybe take down the blue of the dress a little bit.
08:06 But I do like that blue and the contrast that it gives with her skin tone.
08:10 Now, one last thing about Mojo. I'll go over to bad guys, I'm going to
08:13 delete Mojo there. Oops, I didn't mean to do that.
08:18 Let me undo really quick. I'm going to go back to the effects and
08:20 presets panel. And notice that there are a series of
08:23 presets that ship with Mojo. For example, Mojo Optimus.
08:28 I can drag and drop that. That applies Mojo with all these settings
08:31 set up and it kind of looks like the Transformers movie, where we have super
08:34 warm highlights and cool off shadows, very similar to the original Mojo
08:37 settings, just kind of a little bit more intense,, but there's a kind of like a
08:40 Resident Evil mojo resident. And there are a few other presets,
08:45 honestly I don't. Like to use presets generally, especially
08:48 when it comes to color correction. Because, every instance is so wildly different.
08:52 This might look like, you know, the Transformers movie, great and fine.
08:57 But, chances are if we were to apply it to this raw footage, it would not look
09:00 anything like the Transformers movie. So, it, I prefer to just jump in with
09:04 Mojo and use the settings, but the presets are here and available to you.
09:09
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9. The Rest of the Magic Bullet Suite
Using MB Grinder
00:00 In this chapter we are going to look at some of the, kind of, more auxiliary
00:03 tools in the Magic Bullet suite. One of them's kind of fun, we're going to
00:06 look at and this would be called grinder, Magic Bullet grinder.
00:10 This is the only standalone application in the suite.
00:13 The purpose of grinder is to take footage, primarily DSLR footage, footage
00:16 from DSLR cameras, and to transcode it. And what a transcode means is we take it
00:22 from one format like DSLR's typically shoot with H264 compression, which is
00:26 really tough to edit with. So, often times what you do is stick it
00:31 in Magic Bullet Grindor or some other encoding tool, such as Adobe Media
00:34 Encoder and it will convert it to another format that's easier to work with and edit.
00:41 Now, it's super easy to use, and before I drag and drop a movie here, as it
00:43 instructs us to do, I just want to point out that there's this little note here
00:46 that reminds us that, especially with canon files it creates a thm file when
00:50 you're creating your canon so you'll have a .mov file which is the actually movie.
00:56 You'll have a little metadata file that's this thm file.
00:59 And if you bring this in it will use the time of the day of the shoot in order to
01:03 generate time codes. Its also one of the problems with DSLR
01:07 cameras, there's no time code. So Magic Bullet Grinder attempts to fix this.
01:11 And there's several options here. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to
01:14 go to the Video folder that's inside the Media folder of the exercise files.
01:19 I have this shooting basketball footage. This is an H264 clip from a Canon camera, DSLR.
01:27 I'll just drag and drop that, and now we're ready to go.
01:30 So it has some information about this. And including our frame rate and our
01:34 size, our typical dimension. The cool thing about this is, is that
01:38 Grinder can actually create two files for you.
01:42 One is the main format. So this is kind of like the high quality
01:45 conversion of this, and you'll never have to go back to the H264 version again.
01:50 Again and then you could also create a proxy at the same time.
01:54 In other words, you can create an even lower quality, smaller file size version
01:57 if you want, that's easier to use. You could change the resolution of the proxy.
02:02 You could create half HD, 720p. All these different options here.
02:07 And you could also change the proxy format.
02:09 Now you don't have to have a proxy. You could just click None and it will
02:12 just convert this, so transcode it, to one of the main formats here.
02:16 Typically PhotoJPG or a flavor of Apple ProRes.
02:20 Although you could just use the original and put the time code in, if you want.
02:24 Now, we're getting the benefit of this is that editing systems handle photo jpeg,
02:28 and especially Apple Pro Res so much easier than H264.
02:33 It's so funny to me. I work with 4k Raw files from my red
02:36 scarlet camera all the time in my editing system and premier handle's it like a champ.
02:44 But as soon I get even like a 720p tiny clip, from a A264 camrea from a DSLR it
02:49 chokes on it. It just can't do it.
02:54 So, this is just one of the great benefits of a tool like grinder.
02:58 One of the other benefits, say we'll use this as our main format, if we do choose
03:02 to create a proxy and let's see, we'll make a small proxy, you can also burn in
03:06 information like time codes so we'll create an overlay of the time code.
03:13 So you sync it up a little bit easier with the main format later on.
03:17 Also, you can put time code in, you can put continuous time code, or the time of
03:20 day if you want in both the main format and the proxy format, so again they're
03:23 easier to connect later. Now another side benefit of this is that
03:29 we can conform the frame rate. A lot of times when you have a DSLR
03:32 camera, it will allow you to shoot up to 60 frames per second.
03:36 And so when you shoot 60 frames per second, typically what you're doing is
03:39 you're creating a slow motion effect. You could slow it down later.
03:43 So if you want, you could right here conform the frame rate to be 23.976 as
03:47 opposed to the same as the original and that will make your 60 frames per second
03:50 footage slow motion. Now, once you've set up your main output
03:56 location, I'll just use the same video folder, and I'm going to go ahead and
04:00 create the proxy. And let's go ahead and burn in the time code.
04:05 And I'll, I don't have the, the, THM file, so I'll just go ahead and just
04:08 leave this set on continuous. All you have to do is click start.
04:12 By the way, you can queue up tons of these files, and grinder will render one
04:16 simultaneous file for each of your cores up to 8 cores.
04:20 So if you have a machine with 8 cores, you have 8 transcodings processes going
04:23 on at the same time. Go ahead and click start here.
04:28 And in just a moment our main file and our proxy files are done encoding.
04:36 It actually goes pretty fast, and then we have the transcoded version here.
04:42 And then we also have the proxy version. And you can see the time code burned in
04:47 right there. That's really all there is to using Magic
04:51 Bullet Grinder.
04:52
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Using MB PhotoLooks
00:01 In this tutorial we're actually going to be in Adobe Photoshop of all places.
00:04 We're going to be looking at another product in the suite called Photo Looks
00:07 which is basically Magic Bullet Looks for photos.
00:11 So here in Photoshop, I can go to the Filter> Magic Bullet Photo Looks.
00:19 And now, here we have the familiar Magic Bullet Looks, interface.
00:24 And we have the Scopes and we have the Skin Charts and everything and we have
00:27 the five different tools in our tool chain, Subject, Matte, Lens, Camera and
00:30 Post, the same tools. Everything here, except it's for photos.
00:35 So I can go over here and I can apply Colorista Three Way to my still image, of
00:39 this beautiful model here. And get shadows where we want, looking at
00:45 the, Scope over here, the Waveform Monitor, the RGB Parade.
00:49 And, we can maybe even warm up the highlights, and warm up the mid-tones,
00:55 and then maybe we could cool off the, the shadows.
01:03 And, just kind of play with that a little bit.
01:06 And then we could go back to our Tools. And maybe on the lens we could add a
01:11 Vignette, and I'll move this over so it's centered on her, stretch this out a
01:16 little bit. And, in post we can do something which we
01:20 didn't talk about at the beginning of this training series, we can actually
01:23 apply Cosmo right here inside a Magic Bullet Look, so I'll double-click and
01:26 apply that with the same settings here. I'll go ahead and turn on our Skin Graph,
01:32 and then I can adjust the skin color as I desire.
01:36 I can make it more red, or more yellow. I kind of like it right about there.
01:43 And then we could squeeze the skin a little bit, maybe soften the skin a
01:46 little bit. I'll turn off the Skin Graph here I can
01:50 see what Cosmo has done. Actually let's take a look less than a
01:54 hundred percent, so there's before Cosmo and after.
01:58 So here is you can use that back slash key again and here's our before.
02:03 And here, is our after, with Magic Bullet Photo Looks.
02:07 Now, one of the things, that they will say on their website, that the host
02:10 clients are Photoshop, Light Room, and Aperture.
02:13 It also says, that Photo Looks will not support Photoshop Elements or other
02:16 products that support the Photoshop plugin specification.
02:20 However, when I do a search for Photo Looks.
02:23 I have Magic Bullet Photo Looks here and I click that.
02:26 Actually let me go ahead and cancel this out.
02:29 If I go ahead and launch it from my, my computer here.
02:34 You'll see it launches as a stand alone and we can open an image from inside of
02:38 Photo Looks. So it stands on its own.
02:42 So you can use it that way. And from here you could actually save out
02:45 a file if you need to or what have you. So basically it's Magic Bullets Looks but
02:50 meant for photos.
02:51
Collapse this transcript
Using MB Instant HD
00:00 When high definition video came out and became like a normal thing, a lot of
00:04 video professionals, lots of seasoned veterans, were a little heart broken and
00:08 they were sad because they'd been shooting SD for so long and now, none of
00:11 their stuff really worked. So, Instant HD was created and is also
00:18 part of the Magic Bullet Suite. And the purpose of Instant HD was to
00:24 re-size your footage in a better way. Now before we get too far, the host
00:30 applications here After Effects, Premiere, and Final Cut 5, 6, and 7 only.
00:36 And note that for Premiere CS4 and CS3 it's only for Windows.
00:41 Now, back to After Effects here. I have my footage that I brought into my
00:46 composition here, and I'm not doing Instant HD any favors, because this is
00:51 actually a 2k composition, so we are doubling the size of this footage.
00:57 Now, I have this version here, which is scaled up, and when we zoom in to 100%
01:00 here which we really need to do to get a really good comparison of what's happening.
01:06 We see that there are some pixelation issues here.
01:10 This is not super clean footage. So I'm going to take off the Visibility,
01:14 the scaled up layer, and I'm going to apply Instant HD, not the re-sizer effect
01:18 which is in this cat, same category. Apply Instant HD, to the Instant HD layer.
01:25 It instantly tries to resize it, the best it can, right off the bat.
01:29 So we'll go to the Output Size drop down here at the top and they're tons of options.
01:34 And they're even some SD options so in case you're scaling something up, say,
01:37 maybe something like old cell phone footage or something, you can actually
01:40 use one of these presets. Tons of options here.
01:44 As you can see, but I'm just going to to go ahead and choose Custom.
01:48 Because we have a unique aspect ratio here.
01:51 And actually, because of that, I'm going to uncheck Lock Aspect Ratio.
01:57 I'm going to take Custom Width to actually 2048, 2048 and I'm going to take
02:02 the Custom Height to 1080. So, now, we have our scaled up, doubled
02:09 in size version of this file. Now, just to show you the difference
02:15 here, I'm going to change the filter type from Quick to Best.
02:20 And I'm also going to maybe increase Sharpness to maybe like four and take up
02:24 Quality to maybe 15. Because I really want to show you the
02:27 difference here. I'll zoom back in to 100%.
02:31 And now when I toggle on the scaled up version, here's the original and here it
02:36 is with Instant HD. So it feels really, soft and fuzzy with a
02:40 scaled up version, we take that off and it's much cleaner.
02:45 It's no where near perfect, but for the fact that we doubled in size this already
02:50 highly compressed file, this is pretty impressive results.
02:55 Now, there's another great tool in this little collection here I'm just going to
02:58 go ahead and delete Instant HD. I'm going to apply Resizer.
03:03 And that's also, again, in the Magic Bullet in the HD folder here.
03:07 It comes with Instant HD. Now Resizer was acquisitioned when Magic
03:11 Bullet, or rather Red Giant bought out Digital Anarchy, and the Resizer came
03:17 with it. This is basically like Instant HD, but
03:21 the quality isn't as good. But the options are plentiful so if you
03:26 wanted to change the preset to like 200% we could do that.
03:31 We could also change the scale within height we can change this to 200% there
03:36 and now we are double the size and again the scaling up version here.
03:44 Its really not any better or worse before and after so it doesn't have the same
03:47 magic that Instant HD does but you can change the source aspect ratio.
03:52 You can also choose to fill the grame or stretch it.
03:55 You can also choose what to do with the fields if you are going to interlace it
03:58 and there's a lot of other options like that.
04:02 It's an HD, definitely looks better. Re-sizer gives you more options.
04:06
Collapse this transcript
Using MB Frames
00:00 Last, and for me probably least, we have Magic Bullet frames.
00:06 I think this is actually the original Magic Bullet effect, and it's meant to
00:10 take interlaced footage, and deinterlace it, and basically conform 30 frames per
00:14 second interlaced footage into 24p footage in an elegant way.
00:20 It's actually a collection of effects. At least here in after effects.
00:24 We can apply for example, the Letterbox or effect to get a Letterbox effect.
00:29 And that's what we want. There's just a lot here that I frankly
00:32 don't have to much experience with and don't find too helpful in this HD and
00:36 ultra-HD age that we are living in. But if I go ahead and apply Frames Plus
00:41 for examples. Click the Auto Setup button.
00:44 Click OK. And you could see that it does do some
00:47 great stuff to fix some problems that we had in the original version of this.
00:52 You can see some interlacing artifacts in the motion of this footage.
00:56 And we could turn on Frame Plus and get rid of some of that.
00:59 I want to say I just searched for hours to find an interlaced 30 frames per
01:02 second clip that I could use, 'cuz film is more in my wheelhouse.
01:07 So, there's that. There's one other cool effect though that
01:11 actually is really helpful whether or not you're doing, broadcast stuff or film.
01:16 And that's this effect called Opticals. It seems like this should go in some
01:20 other place other than in Frames because this effect is actually really cool.
01:26 One of the things that we do often when we're transitioning from one clip to
01:30 another let's say we're here in After Effects is that we'll use opacity to kind
01:34 of lower the pacity and blend between two clips but this looks really not great.
01:41 It doesn't look like film it looks like video.
01:44 But one of the cool things about film dissolves is that they're usually
01:47 additive dissolves. They look great.
01:50 So what I'm going to do is apply the opticals effect to my top layer here.
01:53 And it's just a transition effect. I'm going to change the a layer to my
01:57 number one layer, the b layer to my number two layer.
02:00 And then as I increase the dissolve from a to b, you can see we have more of an
02:04 additive dissolve. So the brights kind of come in first, and
02:08 it creates kind of a more pleasing effect, what we're used to.
02:14 And then we can also adjust the fade burn film response, so we can, let me just
02:18 increase fade here, or burn, to get things darker.
02:23 And we can adjust the faint, fade burn film response.
02:27 So in other words we basically are changing it so it's almost like we're
02:31 using the Add mode, or the Multiply mode in order to blend these clips together
02:34 and the result is actually pretty cool. I'll take fade and burn and that response
02:41 back down to zero. But you can see here that we have a more
02:45 pleasing cinematic transition between these two clips with the Opticals effect.
02:50
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Conclusion
Following Stu Maschwitz
00:00 Now, before we close out the training series, I want you to be aware of someone
00:03 named Stu Maschwitz. He is a hero of mine and a genius in the
00:07 After Effects community, and also the creator of most if not all of the stuff
00:12 that we have in the Magic Bullet suite. Stu also has a blog, called Prolost, prolost.com.
00:22 And, on his blog, he gives tons of training and tips, and just a lot of
00:26 industry insider information. It's just a really, really great blog,
00:32 this is one of the very few blogs that I actually have in my RSS feed on my phone
00:36 that I absolutely have to know when Stu posts something new.
00:43 I think there's only three things that I follow, and this is one of them.
00:46 I highly recommend checking out what Stu is doing, going through his archives, his
00:50 old blogs. He is so generous with his information
00:54 and he knows so much and he has been involved on so many huge Hollywood
00:58 productions, on indie shoots, he's an amazing photographer, with an amazing
01:02 cinematic sense. He's just really somebody that's great to
01:07 follow and be aware of.
01:09
Collapse this transcript
Goodbye
00:00 Well folks, that's it for this training series on the Magic Bullet Suite.
00:04 On behalf of lynda.com, thank you so much for watching.
00:07 And also because I know that not everybody watches these little goodbye
00:11 movies all the time. I wanted to give you a special bonus for
00:14 watching this, and one of the things that's really cool and important to know
00:18 about Red Giant. Is that they occasionally have these huge
00:23 sales, where they give away like 30% off or 50% off sometimes.
00:27 These sales usually coincide with big holidays or big events like NAB, which is
00:30 actually going on, while I'm recording this right now.
00:34 They also have a huge sale around Christmas time, around the holidays.
00:38 And it seems like they have one around Summer or when they release a new product sometimes.
00:43 So, it's a good idea just to check in if you're on a really tight budget and you
00:46 can't afford the latest and greatest. That you keep your eye out for these huge
00:50 sales they have. Cause you really can get some great deals.
00:54 Again, thank you so much for watching this training.
00:56 I hope you enjoyed it. My name is Chad Perkins, take care.
00:58
Collapse this transcript


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