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We've all been in that situation where we've received footage that's a little too shaky, or at least we think it is. Well with Warp Stabilizer VFX we can usually rescue most of those shots. So let's check out the footage we're working with today. I'll load up a RAM preview. Now I'm going to press the Spacebar and stop playback. As I watched that scene I'm looking at two things. The first, how shaky is the footage? And the second, is the camera actually moving in the scene? Now since i was there, I know the camera person was shooting with a Go Pro and he too was snow boarding through the scene.
So definitely the camera was moving, and sure enough there's a fair amount of shake. For what it is it's kind of impressive, but with Warp Stabilizer, we'll make it that much better. Let's select Layer one and apply our Warp Stabilizer. So go up to the Animation menu, and choose Warp Stabilizer VFX. Now, the second you apply this, it's automatically going to start analyzing the footage in the background. This is a background process. This gives you the ability to actually continue working on other parts of your After Effects projects. At any given time, you can come back, and in the effects control panel for the warp stabilizer, you'll see a progress update in the upper left hand corner. Now, the stabilizer applies some default settings, and before we actually look at those results, you want to make sure to go to your Composition panel. And in the bottom middle section, you want to make sure to adjust the Resolution pull-down.
Let's make sure it's actually set to Full Resolution. Now, we'll get a lot of the sharpness and clarity back into our footage. If we click our current time indicator, and scrub through the scene. You'll notice that our snowboarder has been cropped out of the shot. And that's not at all what we want. So I'm not going to bother previewing the rest of the shot. Let's go up, and look at some of the options for our stabilizer. We'll work our way from the top down. If you go to the Result area, click on the pull down by result. Smooth Motion is best used when you know the camera is actually moving, it will allow you to retain some of the motion of that camera.
When you chose No Motion, its usually best for lock down shots when the camera is not moving. Now, the Smoothness controls how strong the stabilize feature's going to be. Our shot was relatively okay, so I'm going to decrease our smoothness. if you Click and Drag on the parameter, we can drag it down to a setting of around 25%. Now, it will take a second to re-stabilize, but it's not going to have to go back and reanalyze the footage. Immediately we've seen results, because our snowboarder is much higher up in the scene and really she just barely pops out of the bottom of the frame. Let's look at the Method.
If you click on the pull down the method has a couple different options. Just so you have a better idea as to some of the other settings, let's change the method to Position. I'll get back to all the different method options here, in a second. With the method set to position, let's change our Framing. If you go to the pull-down, we can change it to Stabilize Only. Now when we scrub through, we can see exactly how much our footage is moving to actually try and fix some of the shake. You can adjust just the Position, or if you change to Position, Scale, and Rotation, the stabilizer will take in additional information.
If I Click and Drag here, now you notice it's actually twisting the frame to give me a nice stable image here in the center. I find 9 times out of 10 when I'm stabilizing footage, I'm either using Position, Scale, and Rotation or, Subspace Warp. When you select Subspace Warp, you need to be careful, because sometimes it'll accidentally introduce distortion back into your image. It even tries to correct lens distortion. So, if I Click and Drag here, I'm liking the results that I've got for my footage, but I definitely don't want to have these dark edges in my image.
So, I could go make changes to my Framing. If I mainly wanted to adjust the scale I could Click and Drag under additional scale and scale that up. Even though I see the control handles on my layer here I could click and reposition this layer and notice I do have additional information for my footage. So now if I go ahead and scrub through the scene. I can see my snowboarders higher up in the scene. Now, I'm still seeing some of the area pop up in the bottom. And this is where I would want to consider actually keyframing the layer itself, or keyframing the amount of Additional Scale. And maybe scaling it up at different points in time. If you've got your settings the way that you like, and you're still noticing some distortion, let's say some ripple distortion. There is a feature in the Advanced section that you can adjust. If we go to the Advanced section, the first thing you should loo to adjust is the Rolling Shutter Ripple.
It's by default set to Automatic Reduction. If you click on that pull-down, you can choose Enhanced Reduction and a lot of times, that'll fix any little distortion issues. If that didn't quite do it, you could always continue to push Warp Stabilizer a little bit further by enabling Detailed Analysis. Just be aware when you enable Detailed Analysis, the Warp Stabilizer's going to have to go back to your footage and reanalyze that footage. And since it is more detailed it may take a little bit more time.
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