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Learn how to speed up time and create compelling visual effects with time-lapse photography. Join Rich Harrington in the field as he captures nature's patterns at Red Rock Canyon in southwestern Nevada, and shows how to frame your scene and choose the proper camera settings. He'll show you how to capture great images, whether you're using a DSLR camera and a motorized slider or just a smartphone you have handy. Then join him back in the studio to transform your still footage into a storytelling time-lapse video, using tools like Photoshop, Premiere Pro, and Final Cut Pro.
This course was created and produced by Rich Harrington. We are honored to host this content in our library.
Rich: As you saw in the last movie, there is a big visual difference between the JPEG and the RAW file. Particularly, in the flexibility you have for post-production. In the field though, there's also a big difference, which is the file size. If you are shooting on a Canon, you might find yourself for a few different file sizes to choose from, and that's a nice benefit. You're still shooting RAW, you just can shoot a smaller RAW file. You might not need all those 27 mega pixels for your Time-lapse file when in fact, you're only using maybe three or four. If you want the maximum flexibility during the post production stage, you will shoot RAW. The ability to recover highlights and shadows, to add clarity is just absolutely awesome.
You could do this to the JPEG file. It's just not the same. So, let's take a look at a coupe of RAW file that we shoot here. And I want to show you how you can develop them. So, I'll switch over to the info side here, and use my quality settings, and I'm just going to switch to RAW only. Another thing that's going to be important, is that I check my white balance, and we'll go through these settings more in a moment. With RAW you have the flexibility to change the white balance after the fact, with much greater ease. But you generally want to avoid the auto white balances, they just cause problems.
So I'm going to go to a very specific degrees Kelvin. I'll take that to about 5600, that should work well. And let's fire off a couple of shots. (SOUND) I'm just going to recompose the camera, so you see some skies. (SOUND) As well as, some rock and detail. (SOUND) Let's try to avoid getting direct lens flare, there. (SOUND) That's a nice collection of just different files, to show you the benefit of what the RAW file does. You notice, as we make the adjustments in our post-processing software. In this case, Adobe Camera Raw, which is the same engine you access from Photoshop or Adobe Photoshop Lightroom.
There is tremendous ability to really improve the overall quality of these files. For this reason and this reason alone, buy a bigger memory card and get the most professional results.
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