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Rich: Depending on your camera, you may shoot a movie directly on the device. Time-lapse apps for smart phones tend to shoot movie files as the end result. If you're shooting on DSLR, some DSLRs offer it as an in-camera feature, as do other point and shoot cameras. The good news is, is that you instantly have a file that's ready to post and share. The bad news is, is, you don't have as much flexibility when it comes to adjusting the movie. If you've got a lockdown time-lapse movie, it's really tough to deal with exposure issues.
Essentially, you're just making a video file. And if the exposure was clipped, you don't get any of the benefits of RAW. Now, it's about the same quality as JPEG. With the added exception that you lose one important thing. When you shoot, directly to a movie file, you don't get the ability to shoot at higher resolutions, so you end up with a video file that's 1080p or 720. That file might not be future proofed, if you need to deliver at a higher digital resolution. Nor can you go in and recrop the photo or recompose it, or add an animated move in post production. For these reasons I recommend you stay away from shooting movies. Now, we're going to explore this process a little bit later and actually shoot some movies, and if it's the only tool you have it's great. I also sometimes use it as a previsualization so I can see how the shots going, make some basic changes.
Or even just post something to social media when I'm out in the field. But, don't make it your only acquisition method or you'll probably be disappointed with the end results.
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