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Removing spots with Adobe Camera Raw

From: Creating Time-Lapse Video

Video: Removing spots with Adobe Camera Raw

Rich: When we were shooting out in the desert, I did my best to be careful about swapping lenses. Even still, there was times it was pretty windy and a lot of dust blowing. And it was very easy to end up with some dust, both on the front of the lens or on the sensor. As you can see here, I've got a few bits of dust, three little spots. And it looks like potentially a hair there. But as we go from frame to frame, they stay stationary. The good news is, is that if you take good diligence in the shooting and in the field, a couple of spots here and there can be easy to fix during post.

Removing spots with Adobe Camera Raw

Rich: When we were shooting out in the desert, I did my best to be careful about swapping lenses. Even still, there was times it was pretty windy and a lot of dust blowing. And it was very easy to end up with some dust, both on the front of the lens or on the sensor. As you can see here, I've got a few bits of dust, three little spots. And it looks like potentially a hair there. But as we go from frame to frame, they stay stationary. The good news is, is that if you take good diligence in the shooting and in the field, a couple of spots here and there can be easy to fix during post.

Let's see how. Inside of Bridge here, I'll select all my images, and choose Open in Camera Raw. It doesn't matter if they're raw files or if they're just standard files. I see some of my spots. Let's go for the base exposure here. It's a bit bright for me so I'll take that down. And I'm going to pop the clarity to get the nice rock details. And really bring out the sky with vibrance. I'm happy with that. But the spots are now even more visible.

Choosing my spot removal brush or B, this gets easy to fix. There's actually a Visualize Spots option that has a Threshold slider that makes it really easy to spot the potential problems. This Visualize Spots option is available in some of the newer versions of Photoshop and Lightroom. To remove a spot I just need to click. Now, the Right bracket key makes the brush bigger, left smaller. Clicking, it will auto-detect an attempt to remove for you.

If you have a problem area, you can also create a brushstroke. So, I'll get a small brush here, and brush over that hair. I can toggle to visualize spots. Now, looks like I guessed wrong and I actually missed the hair. So, here's the good news. I can drag that to a new position and set the sample point manually. But the overlay is in the way. So, by moving this and refining it, makes it a little bit easier to see things. And remember you can always click and let it auto detect. It does a pretty good job.

So, before, after. Let's zoom in to 100%. And take a quick look through the image. I'm just using the scroll wheel or the track pad. And this is one of those things that becomes very subjective. And you can drive yourself nuts taking 'em all out. But at 100% magnification they certainly are a little easier to see. These aren't very strong ones but I think they're worth taking out. These look to be dust that was blowed, actually, on the front of the lens itself.

Now, in time lapse shooting this is pretty easy to have happen. You're out there shooting on a windy day and the camera is locked down for several hours, well, there's a chance that dust is going to blow on the front of the lens. And depending upon the shooting conditions, it may even get inside the sensor. So, just go through once at a high level and once at a zoomed level looking for any major offenders. Don't feel like you have to completely eradicate all of them, but take the time to try to find the biggest offense and just paint 'em out. And it does a great job of cleaning that up for you. (SOUND) There you go.

A few little ones there. Alright, I think we just about have it. The good news is is typically those spots only show up in the sky areas so you don't have to worry about the rest of the image as much once you've done the dust busting on the sky. Alright. I think I can safely say I have been nit picky enough.

And now, I just want to apply that evenly to the whole image. So, I'll Select All, choose Synchronize and make sure to synchronize Everything. At this point all the images are adjusted and that's looking pretty good. Notice that over the course of time as the sun set, the shot will get darker and I still want that to happen. It didn't take the exposure of the first image and force everything else to sync, what it did do is take the amount that we adjusted the exposure. In this case, lifting it about a stop and going in and refining the highlights and the shadows as well as the clarity.

And it synched those settings across all the images. But because things changed over time, you will still see changes over time in the shot and get the desired results. At this point I can click Done and store those settings. The image is now updated across the board and I'm ready to move to the next stage.

Show transcript

This video is part of

Image for Creating Time-Lapse Video
Creating Time-Lapse Video

73 video lessons · 16391 viewers

Richard Harrington
Author

 
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  1. 3m 55s
    1. Welcome
      34s
    2. What you should know before watching this course
      1m 11s
    3. Using the exercise files
      2m 10s
  2. 4m 20s
    1. The end product
      1m 9s
    2. Why shoot with a still camera
      2m 0s
    3. What you're shooting for: Objectives
      1m 11s
  3. 7m 7s
    1. Frame size for delivery of time lapse
      1m 43s
    2. Frame size for acquisition of time lapse
      1m 45s
    3. Delivery frame rate of time lapse
      1m 36s
    4. Postprocessing choices for time-lapse photography
      2m 3s
  4. 17m 7s
    1. A solid tripod for time-lapse shooting
      4m 43s
    2. Using an internal intervalometer
      2m 15s
    3. Using an external intervalometer
      4m 37s
    4. Weather gear
      1m 6s
    5. Extending the power of the camera
      1m 28s
    6. Using a spare camera body
      50s
    7. Memory card selection
      2m 8s
  5. 5m 55s
    1. Shooting time lapse as JPEG files
      2m 15s
    2. Shooting time lapse as raw files
      2m 6s
    3. Shooting time lapse as movie files
      1m 34s
  6. 7m 34s
    1. Choosing a frame rate for time-lapse photography
      46s
    2. How long should you shoot?
      1m 10s
    3. Tracking the sun's position
      2m 50s
    4. Working the scene
      2m 48s
  7. 3m 4s
    1. Choosing the right aperture for time-lapse photography
      1m 6s
    2. Choosing the shutter speed for time-lapse photography
      50s
    3. Choosing the ISO for time-lapse photography
      1m 8s
  8. 10m 15s
    1. What does a slider add to the shot?
      2m 37s
    2. Building a slider
      3m 43s
    3. Basic moves on a slider
      3m 27s
    4. Keith's feature
      28s
  9. 8m 35s
    1. Stabilizing the phone
      2m 52s
    2. Setting up the shot with Lapse It
      1m 59s
    3. Using Lapse It
      1m 26s
    4. Using iStopMotion for iPad
      2m 18s
  10. 12m 8s
    1. Using a card wallet
      3m 9s
    2. Choosing a working drive
      3m 18s
    3. Transferring data
      5m 41s
  11. 8m 55s
    1. Using stacks in Adobe Bridge
      2m 29s
    2. Removing unwanted frames
      3m 2s
    3. Renaming and renumbering image sequences
      3m 24s
  12. 51m 54s
    1. Basic exposure with Adobe Camera Raw
      3m 30s
    2. Selective recovery with Adobe Camera Raw
      6m 25s
    3. Advanced recovery with Adobe Camera Raw
      5m 50s
    4. Reducing noise with Adobe Camera Raw
      2m 37s
    5. Removing spots with Adobe Camera Raw
      5m 41s
    6. Compensating for lens distortion
      5m 16s
    7. Stylizing the image with Adobe Camera Raw
      8m 49s
    8. Exporting the images to sequential files
      3m 42s
    9. Alternative workflow with Lightroom: Part one
      5m 36s
    10. Alternative workflow with Lightroom: Part two
      4m 28s
  13. 11m 16s
    1. Importing the image sequence
      2m 5s
    2. Refining the duration and frame rate
      2m 39s
    3. Adjusting the time-lapse sequence
      3m 35s
    4. Exporting the time-lapse sequence
      2m 57s
  14. 30m 22s
    1. Importing the image sequence
      1m 31s
    2. Refining the duration and frame rate
      3m 42s
    3. Frame blending
      3m 7s
    4. Adjusting the time-lapse sequence
      3m 33s
    5. Camera moves
      3m 54s
    6. Using flicker
      4m 59s
    7. Working with raw time-lapse sequences
      3m 35s
    8. Creating variable-speed effects
      3m 10s
    9. Exporting the time-lapse sequence
      2m 51s
  15. 11m 40s
    1. Importing the image sequence
      2m 23s
    2. Refining the duration and frame rate
      3m 39s
    3. Adjusting the time-lapse sequence
      2m 19s
    4. Exporting the time-lapse sequence
      3m 19s
  16. 12m 34s
    1. Importing the image sequence
      3m 17s
    2. Refining the duration and frame rate
      1m 53s
    3. Adjusting the time-lapse sequence
      4m 48s
    4. Exporting the time-lapse sequence
      2m 36s
  17. 1m 4s
    1. Goodbye
      1m 4s

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