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Learn how to speed up time and create compelling visual effects with time-lapse photography. Join Rich Harrington in the field as he captures nature's patterns at Red Rock Canyon in southwestern Nevada, and shows how to frame your scene and choose the proper camera settings. He'll show you how to capture great images, whether you're using a DSLR camera and a motorized slider or just a smartphone you have handy. Then join him back in the studio to transform your still footage into a storytelling time-lapse video, using tools like Photoshop, Premiere Pro, and Final Cut Pro.
This course was created and produced by Rich Harrington. We are honored to host this content in our library.
Rich: When I shot the time lapse sequence, the frames were oversized. Now, on the Export, from Camera Raw to the TIFF file, I did a down convert to make it smaller. I could've left this at full size, had lots of extra pixels. Still though, I had more than twice the number of pixels I need. If you look at the image sequence here, I'll just press S for scale. And what I can do is turn on the Keyframe. I'll press Shift+A to add the anchor point and turn that on too.
Adjusting the Scale Property you see that I can essentially zoom out, to see a wider view. This makes it easy for me to reframe the shot. And then, by six seconds, I want to push back in to 100% magnification. But, I'm going to pan over a little bit, to these rocky cracks, and tilt down. There we go, that looks pretty good. Let's do a quick ram preview at half quality to see the effect. What I have there is a zoom, or a move, on the shot. And it was creating entirely in post.
This doesn't create the same cool parralax effects that a true slider will. But it is a useful way to add visual interest to your shots. And using Keyframes there are lots of controls available to get a better look. Let's take a look at a couple of advanced options with Keyframing. Alright, here's that move as is, it looks pretty cool. I like the camera move, but I'd like to have a little bit more natural movement. So, I'll click on the scale property. And I want to show you a change here.
By clicking on the graph editor, I could see a visual representation of the scale transformation. And right now, that's very mathematically linear. If those Keyframes aren't selected, switch back from the Graph Editor so they're highlighted and choose Animation > Keyframe Assistant > Exponential Scale. If you look at the graph editor now, you'll see that it's taken on the ballistic curve of a true camera zoom. That has a little bit of a knee in the middle where it arcs out. Looking at that, it's going to seem like a more natural zoom. Here it is, and it's got a more realistic type move. Let's select the anchor point properties for a moment. I'll select this Ending Keyframe and choose Keyframe Assistant > Ease In. And I'll Select the first one and Choose Keyframe Assistant > Ease Out. So now we have a little bit of a curve as well creating a gentle camera move so it drifts into that final position.
The move is looking really good and natural. I'm very happy with it. If I want to retime it its pretty easy. Clicking on the word you can select all the Keyframes and if you Shift+click you can select both properties. Holding down the Alt or Option key, you can now adjust these, and spread them tighter, or further apart. Moving them closer speeds up the camera move, spreading apart slows it down. And that gives you great flexibility if you need to re-time a zoom or a pan to get the right emotional feel. There it is, let's take a look at that shot in its entirety. The slower zoom and pan feels more natural to me. And what I'd like to do is just get rid of some of that flicker caused by the sun moving behind the clouds.
Let's see if we can stabilize that out over time.
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