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Learn how to speed up time and create compelling visual effects with time-lapse photography. Join Rich Harrington in the field as he captures nature's patterns at Red Rock Canyon in southwestern Nevada, and shows how to frame your scene and choose the proper camera settings. He'll show you how to capture great images, whether you're using a DSLR camera and a motorized slider or just a smartphone you have handy. Then join him back in the studio to transform your still footage into a storytelling time-lapse video, using tools like Photoshop, Premiere Pro, and Final Cut Pro.
This course was created and produced by Rich Harrington. We are honored to host this content in our library.
Rich: One of the first issues I like to tackle, is the general exposure. Remember, the order of operations is fixed exposure first, and color second. That's because as you adjust exposure, things like the saturation in the image will be affected. I generally find, it's a lot easier to do things, in the right order. So, let's tackle the first problem. Okay, I have about three seconds of shots here and I just streamed my things down. And you notice, as we cycle through, there are some big shifts in exposure. Not because the settings of the camera changed.
Notice that I'm still in a Manual Exposure mode its just that the sun actually moved behind a cloud. So that would cause a bit of a change in the Exposure or at least the apparent exposure. Let's select all the images and choose Open in Camera Raw. I'll go to one of the middle frames, that's representative, that looks pretty close to the others. And we'll start there, that looks good. Let's begin by taking the easy path and clicking Auto. That does a decent job of a basic recovery.
I'll turn on the clipping warnings for Shadows and Highlights. Notice as I begin to lift the shadowy regions how they come in to play. If I lower the Exposure, the blue areas here indicate a clipping in the blue channel. Meaning that a absolute substitution of black has occurred. It's okay to have a little clipping in some of your Shadows, but try to minimize it in general. Next, I'll recover some of the Highlights and start to bring those down a bit. It's looking pretty good and we'll add a little bit of Clarity for some selective Contrast.
Followed by Vibrance to bring out the sky. Now we're going to explore this more later. But this was a day where I actually had a lot of sensor dust due to a windy day that I was out shooting. So I'm just going to take advantage of the spot remover here with a couple of quick clicks to remove them. And we'll do more with this tool a little bit later, as we fully explore its advanced capabilities. That's looking pretty good, let's go back to that main area. Overall the exposure feels pretty solid, I'm just going to lift it slightly. And notice I can look at my histograms for feedback along the way, that feels good.
I can choose a white balance method. Do not go with auto, though, or you'll get variation between frames. Instead take a look at some of the presets like Daylight, or Cloudy. Until you get the color feel that you want. These are a bit more accurate, but I actually like the look of daylight. That put a little bit of blue shades into the rocks, and gave them some texture. I'll lift those up a bit more. It feels pretty good, and at this point we could choose Select All and click Synchronize to apply those settings across the board. Let's make sure I'll choose everything.
And I can click OK, and those settings are applied. At this point, I'll click Done to store those. We'll take a look some other advanced options inside Adobe Camera Raw. But I want to show you what to deal with when you have a real tough exposure, and we'll do that next.
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