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Rich: Now at this point we've done the essential adjustments, we modified the overall tone, we've tweaked the presence. You will find now that there are additional tabs very much like you'd find in Adobe Camera Raw. If you'd like to adjust the curve, you can do so. Perhaps you would like to modify which region is being affected by that curve. Notice there how I brightened up the white clouds. In fact I'll lift those even a little bit further.
I like how that's making the clouds nice and bright. Continuing down, you have the ability to work with the overall hue saturation, luminance, or make a black and white adjustment. The detail area here makes it very easy for you to refine any sharpening or noise reduction. Let's adjust that a bit there. I'll troll up my histogram and I'm just going to pull out some of the noise in the rocks.
Much better. Like Adobe Camera Raw. You will find Lens Corrections built in. So enabling that, we'll go through and look for things like chromatic aberration and specific profile fixes based on the camera and lens combination. Under the Effects tab, you have the ability to add post-crop vignettes if you want to stylize your edges or brighten them. Although typically, I'll add that in the step that comes afterwards.
And if you really want to, you can go back to an older method of Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. Alright that image looks great. Where it started, where I took it. So a very compelling change. Let's select all those images and then I'll click Sync and this gives me the ability to correct. Now, I'm just going to apply everything to be simple. And all those changes are now synchronized across all of my files. Now that the files are developed and synced, I can easily export to bring them into another application.
That process is pretty straightforward. Just select all the images you'd like to export and then choose File > Export. Now, if you've already got a preset, you could do this as well. For example, you could make full size JPEGs out of the images you have here. Or, if you like to be a little more specific, choose the Export option. This allows you to choose which type of folder you want to output to. So I'll choose to a specific folder.
I can make a sub-folder if I want. Although in this case I don't need it. Let's choose the location. Here's my process frames. And I'll make this shot_04. And choose it. I can choose how I want the files named although I'll leave them as is for now. And specify a file format. I typically choose TIFF. And I'll stick with the Adobe RGB color space but there are other options if you want.
16 bit'll give you the maximum bit depth available and really good quality and color accuracy. Although the files will be larger, so that's up to you. For image size, I'll typically leave them at full size and choose to resize when I get to the video editing tool. This gives me the flexibility to add key frames or dynamic resizing over time to simulate zooms and pans. I'll tend to sharpen for the screen using a standard amount. And I don't need any water markings or any post processing after the fact. Clicking Export will now save those out to my target location. Notice in the upper left corner, you'll see a progress bar indicating the status of the exports.
It'll count you down as it gets through. And you'll be able to tell of course when it's finished. That's the export option if you want to go ahead and save these files for use in a video editing tool or maybe a compositing application.
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