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Learn how to speed up time and create compelling visual effects with time-lapse photography. Join Rich Harrington in the field as he captures nature's patterns at Red Rock Canyon in southwestern Nevada, and shows how to frame your scene and choose the proper camera settings. He'll show you how to capture great images, whether you're using a DSLR camera and a motorized slider or just a smartphone you have handy. Then join him back in the studio to transform your still footage into a storytelling time-lapse video, using tools like Photoshop, Premiere Pro, and Final Cut Pro.
This course was created and produced by Rich Harrington. We are honored to host this content in our library.
Rich: While I've primarily been showing you in Adobe Camera Raw and Adobe Bridge Workflow, that's not the only way of doing this, even from Adobe. Many of you will like to use Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, which combines catalogueing and image adjustments into one application. It's pretty straight forward to do. And I'd like to show you how to take what you've already learned and translate it into Lightroom. I'm using the Lightroom 5 public beta, which may have changed slightly by the time the final Lightroom is shipping. And I've already imported the images into my Lightroom library. If you're not familiar with the basics of importing into Lightroom, it's a fairly straightforward process.
You just choose to Import Photos and Video, and point it at a folder or a directory, and it will add it in. Under the Library module here, you have the ability to do a quick develop. So, you'll find several presets included, and this could be useful for things like automatically adding a contrast curve. Or tweaking the white balance. Remember, stay away from auto white balances when working with time lapse. I'll reset this though, and instead choose the ability to Auto Tone. That did a nice job of quickly finding the balance between shadows and highlights.
Using the adjustment controls, I can dial the exposure up or down as I see fit. As well as add in Clarity for selective contrast and Vibrance to really pop the color. Now, these quick adjustment or quick Develop module settings work very well to quickly get a look. And if you're really in a hurry, you could just not choose to select everything in that directory, and sync the settings. And then target which settings you want to synchronize. And you'll notice that all the pictures take on the same look. However, this is not the most advanced way to use Lightroom, and I'd like to take a look at the Develop module.
The Develop module of Lightroom gives you all the controls you'd have inside of Adobe Camera Raw plus even a few more. It's fairly straightforward, and if you've used Camera Raw before, Lightroom should seem quite familiar, and vice-versa. With these images selected, I'm just going to just reset them and switch to the Develop module. Let's choose the first image in this sequence and we'll work with it. As I scroll down, you'll see all the settings available. I could choose to assign a White Balance, such as Daylight. Manually adjusting the temperature, and you'll see how it finds the balance there, and a Tint.
Next, you have your exposure settings. So, you could adjust the overall exposure of the image. Don't be afraid to choose auto as a starting point, and then recover your highlights and shadows as needed. A lotta times I'll use shadows and highlights, and set the base exposure pretty close to where the camera originally acquired. The next category presence allows you to do things like Clarity. And just like Adobe Camera Raw, clarity adds selective contrast which can be quite compelling. The Vibrance slider will boost the non skin tones, while Saturation is the overall presence of color.
That's looking pretty good. You'll notice as I was working there that we started to see some spots. Zooming in here makes it a bit easier to see those. I do have a tool specifically for spot removal. And I'll use the healing approach. Notice a check box to help you visualize those spots, and you could adjust the threshold. Left bracket, smaller brush. And clicking will auto-analyze the surrounding pixels, and attempt to find the best match.
You may end up turning visualized spots on and off. Holding the Spacebar makes it very easy for you to move through and process the image. And it's guessing of where to sample to fix a spot is fairly intelligent. So, with a few quick clicks, you could take out any offending spots. Remember, desert shooting of time lapse can definitely lead to some instances of a few more spots than you'd like. This is a very windy day, and even though the lens started out clean, I ended up with some additional spots and sensor dust through the shooting day. But the auto fix here is fairly intelligent and it did a nice job of looking through.
As I click, it simply heals the shot removing the spot. Alright, let's visualize those spots, and we'll zoom back out. I could adjust the Threshold slider there. Looks pretty good. And I'll guess that these are spots. Let's toggle that off. And it's looking great.
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