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Advanced Compositing, Tracking, and Roto Techniques with After Effects

Advanced Compositing, Tracking, and Roto Techniques with After Effects

with Jeff Foster

 


In this workshop Jeff Foster—video producer, compositor, visual effects artist, and author of The Green Screen Handbook—teaches you the advanced tips, tricks, and workflow techniques he's used over the years to get great video/film composites, even when working with near-impossible footage. Learn advanced roto-painting techniques for the Wacom tablet and get up to speed on motion tracking, multipass mattes, multiple keying layers, simulated lighting effects, painting on video background plates, and more. Finally, Jeff shows how to apply what you've learned to a series of real-world projects in Adobe After Effects.
Topics include:
  • Roto-painting techniques with a Wacom tablet
  • Keying both green and blue in a composite
  • Masking to isolate parts of an object to key
  • Using multiple layers and roto on a bad green-screen shot
  • Motion tracking and match-moving
  • Matte painting and moving background/foreground plates
  • Lighting techniques in post

show more

author
Jeff Foster
subject
Video, Compositing, Visual Effects, video2brain
software
After Effects CS6
level
Advanced
duration
2h 9m
released
Feb 24, 2012

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Introduction
Welcome
00:00 (music playing)
00:04 Hi, I'm Jeff Foster, video producer, compositor, and visual effects artist,
00:08 and author of The Green Screen Handbook. I've been working with blue and green
00:13 screen compositing for video, TV, and feature films for nearly two decades.
00:17 And I've taught motion graphics and compositing workshops and seminars internationally.
00:22 I'm excited to bring you this workshop where I get into the details of my work
00:25 flow techniques using various projects to help you fully understand the concepts of
00:29 compositing in Adobe After Effects. I'll cover the art of Roto-painting and
00:35 refining your masks with paint stokes for a softer more believable composite.
00:40 We'll explore multi past mats and multiple key layers to get the best
00:44 results even when working with impossible footage.
00:48 I'll share with you tips and tricks on creating lighting in a scene and your subjects.
00:53 Motion tracking and match moving and other cheats I used to get the job done
00:57 quickly and professionally. You'll learn tips and techniques for real
01:01 world projects. I see this course as a great chance to
01:04 share with you what I've learned as we build your compositing skills together.
01:09 Now I hope you're ready to dig in.
01:11
Collapse this transcript
1. Roto-Painting Techniques with a Wacom Tablet
Beyond the Roto Brush
00:02 I like to show you how I use the Wacom tablet, with After Effects to control my
00:06 Roto brush strokes and we'll use this footage here.
00:10 This is a project you'll find in your chapter one folder.
00:14 This is an actual segment that was used in a Hollywood film.
00:18 It's called the Currier. Put out by Arclight Films.
00:22 It is produced by Films in Motion. And they gave us permission to use this project.
00:28 And this is great, because it incorporates a lot of different things.
00:32 If you look at the first comp here, which is just raw.
00:36 It's a foreground and background plate. Well this guy is jumping off of the top
00:41 of this roller coaster to save the girl, he's the hero.
00:45 So we're going to go onto green screen Roto intermediate one which has already
00:50 some vector objects done in it. It's got the rope, it's already been put
00:56 in here. So, that's just a shape which is a stroke
01:00 and the railings the Track mask is already in.
01:05 It's a locked off shot so it doesn't move and then the board which goes flying off
01:09 as he crashes through the railing. That goes flying out and we have just
01:14 roto masked that cause it's a solid object.
01:18 We have to roto him now because the green screen's fairly unusable.
01:21 We've got this big fold in the center here which creates a big line.
01:25 Got all these deep wrinkles in here because he's probably done this a couple
01:27 times and they didn't straighten it out, so that's a problem.
01:31 But the biggest problem is he jumps off way beyond the camera angle of him in the
01:35 green screen. So they didn't really plan that out that well.
01:40 So we have to go in there and roto him out.
01:43 But we will use very little edges of the green screen.
01:48 We will key those out when we're all done with the Roto brush.
01:50 The Roto brush gets us about 99% of the way there.
01:53 So the first thing I do is I take this layer here, it's a CVX-041.
01:59 That was the actual clip number, so I just left that in there, and we're going
02:02 to duplicate that. And I'm going to rename it, so that it
02:06 makes sense. And I will call this Hero Jumping Roto,
02:11 and that way I know the hero's jumping and we're going to roto him out.
02:17 I'm going to move that right up to the top here.
02:21 So, what I like to do when I'm doing my other masking, is I leave the original
02:25 layer on so I can look back and forth. So I'm going to turn that off so that as
02:29 we're rotoing, we can go back and forth, and look and see what our results are.
02:34 So, to activate this, I'm going to double-click this layer, the Hero Jumping
02:39 Roto layer. And I'm going to go to 100%, I don't need
02:43 to be at 200, at this point. And I'm just going ahead and make sure
02:47 that my Roto brush is selected here. Now I've got a fairly fat brush here.
02:52 I can, change the size in here, on the Wacom in tablet.
02:55 But the nice thing about using the Wacom for this is I'm painting instead of
02:59 scrubbing with a big bar of soap on the rope.
03:04 I can go in here and then my pressure sensitivity allows me to get into other
03:08 areas that are a little harder when you've got one, one size brush.
03:13 So grab my spacebar or, I've actually used the programmable buttons on the
03:18 N204/g, I don't have to touch my keyboard at all.
03:22 I've got all my buttons already programmed here.
03:24 So, I can grab the deselect and, Deselect this range.
03:30 And move up. And grab a little bit of this area here.
03:35 I'd rather have more information than not enough, especially where there's green
03:38 screen 'cuz I know I'll be able to key some of that out or paint it out later.
03:43 So, it's much easier to get rid of, extra material than it is to not have enough
03:47 material and then go in and have to fake it in later or come back and re-roto things.
03:53 So going to just get rid of a little bit there and going to get rid of this rope, I
03:56 don't want to thinking about that. So that's my first frame of my roto.
04:02 And yeah going to grab a little bit more of his hair up here because again I'd rather
04:07 have more than not enough. And same here on it's sleeve.
04:12 So there's a little bit of motion blur in there.
04:15 And the Roto brush does a pretty remarkable job of finding that motion
04:20 blur and bringing it back in. So that's my first frame.
04:24 I'm going to come down one frame and come up here, grab his head, which got.
04:32 Forgotten by the Roto brush 'cuz he moved beyond a range.
04:36 So it takes a few frames for it to learn what's going on.
04:40 And grab a little bit of the corner of his jacket there.
04:43 And you can see that, using the Wacom tablet, I've got brush control here.
04:47 So it's a very intuitive process of kind of painting in areas.
04:52 And just using your pressure sensitivity to control your actual brush size.
04:56 How much material you're selecting there. So I just keep working on down the line.
05:04 Okay, so I've completed my roto process all the way down here.
05:16 And I've got a pretty clean roto, and I'm pretty happy with as it is, and I've
05:20 tried to take in consideration. Capitalize on much of the smoothest parts
05:26 of the green screen. And not worry about trying to knock any
05:29 of that out, because I like the amount of motion blur that's going on in there.
05:36 That's kind of important so I want to keep as much of that in as possible.
05:39 So I'm all done here, now I hit the Freeze button, and that's important to do.
05:44 As soon as you're done with your last frame, or a segment.
05:47 So, that way nothing weird happens later on in either your comps or when you're rendering.
05:55 I've had problems with that in the past where it's just created blobs of silliness.
06:00 So anyway the important part here is that we got a decent roto here.
06:04 Now I come over here to the Roto brush settings and this is where the magic happens.
06:08 I can either smooth out my roto more. Well this is fairly small in the scene,
06:14 if I do a fit we'll see it's actually like 38% here.
06:18 And this is actually a smaller resolution than what I had to work with.
06:23 I was working in 4k files right out of a red cam so.
06:27 Pretty intense and really huge files. But lots of data to work with.
06:30 So it was actually wonderful. But we've got a much smaller version here
06:34 to work with. And I don't want to oversmooth my character
06:37 at all because, the problems is, is when you smooth things.
06:41 Well, we can go ahead and apply it. And we've already applied our, roto.
06:45 So, I hit Smooth, and what that does is, it actually straightens out some of our lines.
06:52 And that's fine if you have really smooth edges that you want to work with.
06:58 But in a case like this, I want it to really be thinking about all the little
07:01 nuances, and everything. So I'm going to leave my smoothing at two
07:06 where it was and it's thinking a little more.
07:09 I will however, probably increase my feathering a bit and I'm going to bring that
07:13 up to say about 35 or 40. I'll go to 40 with it.
07:19 See how that works. 40.
07:21 Okay. And I'm not doing any choking on it at all.
07:26 If I want to see this go back and forth and see what I'm actually doing.
07:31 Well then I can see, here's the effect that I'm having with my Roto brush, and
07:35 do a quick RAM preview here to watch what that's doing.
07:40 And you can see there's areas where I've allowed the green to go ahead and fill up
07:44 between his legs. Because it was easier than trying to
07:47 figure out, well. I'm going to have to paint that out, or
07:50 whatever, I'll just let the keyer, key that out.
07:54 So, I've got him here, so, I do have some issues here with the wrinkles in there, I
07:58 may have to paint those out later on. That's okay.
08:03 It's only one or two frames. It's actually one frame so that's easy
08:06 enough to do. So I look here and then the green fills
08:09 in between his legs there. So you can see the effectiveness of your matte.
08:15 Well we're not done yet, the last thing I'd like to do here is to hit this refine
08:19 Matte button here. And if we move this over so you can read
08:23 it, it actually compensates for motion blur.
08:27 And a little edge decontamination. And a lot of times this does a really
08:30 good job just in the default settings. So I'm going to go and look and see how
08:34 that's working, here. And we'll see that is does even a better
08:38 job of pulling out some of the edge artifacts and even some of the green
08:43 screen's gone now too. Except for the areas that we really need,
08:49 so I'm going to let that RAM preview, and then we can take a look at that.
08:53 But using the Wacom tablet, again, it's a workflow that I find works with the Roto brush.
08:59 It goes on to my paint modes and anything else that I use that's brush oriented
09:02 like that, where I'm not using the mouse. And it gives me just a lot more control,
09:10 and the programmable controls on the Wacom tablet are just phenomenal.
09:18
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Roto-painting mattes
00:02 So, now that I have my character rotoed out with Roto brush, and I've got that
00:07 layer frozen. What I like to do next is actually create
00:12 a movie from this layer, so that I don't have to work on the actual Roto layer.
00:20 So, I turn off everything except for just this layer.
00:24 So, I've got this black alpha out here. And I render out a movie and bring that
00:29 back in as a movie with an alpha. I've already got one rendered out here
00:35 that I can use. I just drag that down into my project.
00:39 And I can hide this guy, a Roto layer, and I can bring in all of my other
00:44 layers, as I want to make them visible. So, now I've got just a movie, I don't
00:51 have data that I'm trying to push, and that speeds up my machine quite a bit.
00:57 Plus it allows me to go in there and modify this movie, or paint on this movie
01:01 layer, and it doesn't affect any edge data or any masking data.
01:06 It's not trying to make theINAUDIBLE work too hard.
01:09 So, the first thing I do is come in here and apply some key light.
01:14 I like to get rid of the green screen, so I know what I'm going to be painting on.
01:17 So, I find an area here where there's a little bit of the green showing.
01:25 Find a frame here that has enough green to grab and go up 100% and there's
01:30 probably enough right there. So, I'm going to apply Keylight.
01:37 So, Key > Keylight. Going to use my Eyedropper and grab that
01:45 little section of green right there. Does a first pass, so we'll go to our
01:50 Screen Matte and move up here I want to make sure I try to get as much of the
01:55 noise as possible. So, I'm going to Screen Matte.
02:00 And clip white. I'll bring that down till most of the
02:04 noise is out of his pants and his arms. There, the sleeve on his jacket.
02:09 So, that looks pretty good. Then come back to my final result.
02:14 And what I typically do, is not use this layer as my actual final layer.
02:20 I use this as a mask layer. So, I'll copy my original layer,
02:25 duplicate it, Cmd+D or Ctrl+D on the PC. And rename it, and I'll just call it Hero Overlay.
02:36 So, what I do here is I put this right up underneath my Matte movie.
02:43 And I make it visible. And then I come up to Layer > Track Matte
02:49 > Alpha Matte. And now, of course, I've got some of my
02:53 green spill still coming back in there. So, I just do a real general Keylight.
02:59 Effect on there. So, instead of selecting a green color
03:04 with a Eyedropper. I just go out here and pick a pure green
03:08 and get close go 0, 255, 0 that's good pure green.
03:13 Pick that and I leave it. And that allows me to pull out all of the
03:18 green out of this image, without affecting any of the subtleties of any
03:23 noise or anything that's going on in here.
03:28 And that just gives me a really nice clean look.
03:31 So, as opposed to the fully keyed version.
03:34 So, what I'm going to do though is that's just my overlay, I'm going to actually
03:38 paint on my Roto matte layer. So, I'm going to double-click that, so I
03:43 can see what's going on here. And bring him down.
03:48 And use my Wacom tablet again, to cycle through all of these shots and see where
03:54 I need to go in and paint out some areas. I'm going to use the Eraser tool.
04:02 At this point, I don't need thatLAUGH big of a brush.
04:04 It right now, so I'm going to bring that down.
04:08 But I'm going to use one that looks like it's probably too big.
04:13 In some areas, because if you use your brush out around the edges and you have a
04:17 fat brush, then it's going to come in very subtly.
04:22 Because you have to remember, I'm going to punch a hole in his back here to demonstrate.
04:26 But if you see how wide the brush goes out.
04:32 And you have all these soft edges all around the edge of the brush.
04:36 Well, obviously, we don't want a bazooka hole in the middle of him, so we'll undo that.
04:41 But I do want to be able to come in and just come in very subtly around the top
04:45 of his head there. Cuz there's going to be motion blur, that I
04:49 want to make sure retains in there. And I'll go back a frame, forward a frame.
04:57 I can see I need to do that again, here. And I just concentrate, when I've got a
05:00 shot this short. This is less than a second long.
05:05 It's only 20 frames long. I only concentrate on one part of the
05:09 subject at a time. So, right now I'm just looking at the top
05:13 of his head. I probably have other areas I need to
05:15 work on too, but this way I can work on just one segment at at time.
05:20 Kind of work my way down, and that way I'm really concentrating on how that edge
05:24 is going, step by step. Because it's real easy to miss something,
05:30 if you're jumping all around, or overpaint something, so you actually
05:33 introduce more problems than you're fixing.
05:37 So, it's really important, to, really focus on going back and forth, back and
05:41 forth, and making sure you're not creating more problems than you're fixing here.
05:47 So, you know, sometimes it's just a matter of softening it up again here.
05:50 Now, we use the Roto brush and we had a 40% feather on there.
05:56 That's the maximum. And it only goes so far, especially with
06:00 the motion blurry taking over that actually creates some more hair.
06:05 So, there's points in here where you want to soften up an edge that might be a
06:09 little bit too harsh and may make the composite not look as believable.
06:15 So, you want to kind of knock those back a bit.
06:18 And this is just a great way to be able to do that is using the Eraser tool with
06:21 the Wacom tablet to go frame by frame. So, I'll just continue to do this until I
06:27 get all the way through. My whole shot sequence and play with this
06:32 and we'll come back and we'll take it to the next level.
06:38
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Roto-painting details
00:00 Continuining with Roto painting, I like to work in a workflow and normally with a
00:05 larger resolution higher resolution monitor.
00:10 I've got a lot more space to do that than we do in this training video.
00:16 But I like to be able to see, what's going on.
00:18 It may look like everything's all clean here everything looks great and everything.
00:23 But when I look at my composite, I start seeing some strange artifacts showing up
00:26 in here. And I wonder if okay, well is that
00:28 actually like a streak in his hair or is there something that's blending in there?
00:34 I just have to turn on the original layer underneath and I can see there's actually
00:37 a couple railings here that are coming down in his hair.
00:41 So I have to kind of paint those out. And the best way to do this is to
00:45 actually move your windows around where you can see a little better.
00:49 So here I'm going to grab this panel. I'm going to move it over to the right so that
00:55 now I've got two windows here. Make a little bit more room for myself here.
01:01 And then I can just kind of move things into place.
01:05 Now I can see what I'm actually painting on, so if I'm going in here and painting
01:10 out some of that. Try to bring it down just a little bit
01:14 and we'll apply some motion blur afterwards to fix that a little more.
01:20 But now I can actually see what it is that I'm actually contributing to here
01:24 and I can feather that a little more. I can really come in here and work the
01:31 details around my composite. And that's really what it comes down to
01:36 is what's believable what's going to work. And I don't want to remove so much that
01:40 it's not realistic anymore either, or looks like he's got too much of a haircut.
01:46 But he is moving at a pretty quick clip here, so.
01:50 I'm going to undo that, I did him a little bit too much and see, that's something that
01:53 you can't tell looking here. Against the black it doesn't look like
01:57 you're doing as much. But then when you look over here you see
02:00 wow, you're really cutting away quite a bit there.
02:03 And it's really important to be able to see that and undo what you need as you
02:06 need to here. So, come back here.
02:09 Work that in a little bit more. Work that out.
02:12 And then I can work my way down the line here till I see that I'm getting rid of
02:16 all the crazy stuff that's going on in here.
02:20 So, right now I'm working on greenscreen Roto Intermediate 3 Comp.
02:24 You can follow along and, and do this part of it as well.
02:29 But this is just a practice issue you just need to go through practice and
02:33 practice and practice. So I recommend that you utilize these
02:38 comps that I've created here for you to be able to do that and then just go in
02:42 and refine your brush skills. And you can see how easy it is to go to
02:48 far each time there. I just hit undo, come back in paint a
02:51 little more. And you know, once you're in the flow of
02:55 working on a particular shot and you're going down the line working little by
02:58 little by little. You kind of get a feel for how much you
03:03 can remove and how much you can't. And I'm not to worried here in the areas
03:07 around his hand because even though it's light there I see that my composite is
03:11 against a light area out here. So that's fine I'm going to leave that alone
03:16 I'm not going to worry about that too much. And why introduce more problems if you
03:19 don't have to. So, and I can see there's a hole there
03:23 that got left out. And just a little bit of ghosting here on
03:27 the top. I'll come down and take care of that.
03:30 So, you really just want to work as little as possible just to get the story across.
03:38 And go through here. And he's going at a pretty quick clip.
03:43 I've got a couple areas there, I've gotta a little too soft there.
03:46 But some of that might be taken care of when I apply motion blur to it.
03:53 Now I've got real smart motion blur that I use.
03:58 And I would use that on the, actually the Overlay layer not the Matte layer so that
04:04 is a third party effect that you have to get and it's pretty affordable.
04:13 It's RE Vision Effects makes it, and I just apply RSMB to it, and we move this out.
04:21 Shrink that up a little bit and then I can look and see how much I want to apply
04:27 to this layer. I'm going to go ahead and crank that up,
04:31 just to see what it does. What it does is it looks at all the
04:35 pixels on a layer and I do it post-matting so that way it creates nice
04:39 edges for me. So, if I want to see this blown up here.
04:46 Let me just do a, a quick grand preview and we can see I didn't paint out some of
04:50 those earlier edges. So, you see some glows around there.
04:54 But the areas here where I did paint out. It will start to kind of feather though a
04:59 little bit so we'll see a much more natural movement there of all of the elements.
05:05 So that's something to play with. Get at least the trial version of it and
05:10 play with it but a real smart motion blur definitely a compositors friend when
05:13 you've got stuff moving and you have to Roto them out.
05:17 It reintroduces motion blur in a natural way.
05:20 And it doesn't look at the edges necessarily.
05:24 It looks at the pixels in motion. So, it looks at the whole frame.
05:27 And it does a just a beautiful job of it. So in conclusion of this particular
05:32 video, I just want to reinforce. It takes a lot of practice to get all
05:36 those fine details in there. Make sure you're not working too heavy on
05:41 any one spot. As you can see I, I did here in a couple
05:44 spots where I've got a little bit too much taken out in comparison.
05:48 What I could do here is probably, maybe feather a little more preceding that area.
05:56 In that way, it won't look as harsh and you just kind of work back and forth.
06:00 That's why it a really important to look at one area at a time work on that area
06:02 until it looks natural and smooth. It doesn't look jarring between one frame
06:06 or another and it looks very natural. So just practice, practice, practice on
06:12 these pieces that I've given you here.
06:17
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Correcting paint strokes over time
00:02 One thing that typically happens is, you'll work on something and you'll be
00:06 working on it for an hour or two. And then you're going back and you're
00:10 realizing, I made a mistake about a half an hour ago and I've saved the project.
00:16 I don't have any undos. What do I do now?
00:19 Do I have to start over? The nice thing about painting in After
00:22 Effects versus going in and trying to do it frame by frame in like Photoshop or
00:26 something, is that everything is non-destructible.
00:31 So I've got my rotomat here, which I've been using the Erasing tool on and painting.
00:36 And I just open that up and it's under effects because your paint is an effect.
00:42 You just twirl that down, and every single brush stroke that you've made is a
00:46 recorded stroke in here. So if say, I come in here and I select
00:51 this particular stroke, this is the area I'm having trouble with is right there.
01:00 Well, I can actually select the stroke and see the actual stroke that's in there.
01:06 And I can hide it and make it visible or invisible or I can just delete it all
01:10 together and paint a new stroke in there. So, there is a, a go-back timeLAUGH here.
01:18 And that's why it's really important to do this type of work in After Effects and
01:23 not try to go out there, paint everything out in Photoshop, and bring it back in.
01:30 The paint tools are here. And the beauty is, is they're reversible,
01:33 they're non destructive. And we do have these editing capabilities.
01:38 So another thing, while I have this stroke selected.
01:42 Say I want to just replace the stroke with another stroke I would actually
01:47 select that stroke come in here and do another stroke.
01:52 And that actually replaces the stroke in question if you have it selected.
01:59 I typically don't do that because you can't really see what you're doing as
02:02 well cuz you see the old stroke as well. So it's easier to just go in there if you
02:07 don't want the stroke you just delete it, you know, and paint a new stroke in and
02:10 then it'll just add it later on in the line.
02:14 But it doesn't really matter what order these paint strokes are because it's all
02:18 about time. We're working on a timeline.
02:21 So you can see I've got strokes all up and down here in this particular frame.
02:25 And see there's several strokes for each frame and some of these happened early on.
02:31 I've got several there, I've got two there, I've got one there, so I work back
02:35 and forth that way. You can kind of see the pattern, so I'm
02:39 stepping forward and back, and working on different strokes on a particular frame.
02:45 They may not all be in the same region, but they will be within the same frame.
02:51 So if I select say, one of these strokes here we'll be able to come up here and
02:55 see where does that stroke happen what's over there by his knee.
03:00 So I can look and I can see I've worked all the way around him here.
03:04 So that tells you where the stroke is in that frame of time.
03:07 And you know if it's something that's a problem you can go in there and just
03:11 delete the strokes you don't want. Go back in, paint new strokes and you
03:15 haven't lost anything. Everything's all right there.
03:20
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2. Complex Composites: Multiple Keys
Keying both green and blue in a composite
00:00 Sometimes we have a shot where we have to actually sandwich our character in
00:06 between two planes. In this case, we've got Santa peeking
00:11 around a door and he's actually making contact with it.
00:15 So we have to treat that surface differently than we do our green screen background.
00:20 Well, there's a couple different ways you can do this.
00:22 One is you could do a lot of Roto and Masking.
00:25 If you had a green plane and a green door or a green background.
00:30 Or if you don't want to keep your shadows or drop shadows in there, then that
00:35 wouldn't be an issue. But if you do need to make contact with a
00:40 surface, it's better to have a secondary color.
00:43 So in this case, we've got Santa is peeking around a blue board, and he's got
00:48 a green background. So, this is a shot.
00:53 It was actually a standard definition, so we have some issues with, some noise in
00:58 the shadows here. Which are a little harder to control
01:02 without doing a lot of Roto work or some isolation to just treat the shadows.
01:08 But just to show you a, a really rough example of how we can obtain this.
01:15 Well there's a process to this and it's several steps.
01:18 And I'm going to just cover the initial steps of positioning and keying out Santa
01:23 in this movie. There'll be another movie in this chapter
01:26 that deals with some of the more intricacies of working with different
01:30 layers and levels and everything. To kind of bring our composite together.
01:34 So let's get started with this. It's in the chapter two folder.
01:39 And I'm starting with the ready to matt comp here.
01:42 And the first thing I want to do is make sure that I put everything into position.
01:47 So, I want to get my door in position there and that's fine right where it is there.
01:54 I want to match my Santa with the door. So I'm just going to bring him down in
02:01 opacity a little bit so I can see the door.
02:04 And I need to move him over, so I'm going to hit P for position, and just kind of move
02:09 him over into position. And then I'm going to have to rotate him
02:15 ever so slightly, Rotate. And I'm just going to try 1 degree.
02:22 And that looks like that matches fairly good there.
02:25 Going to have to do a little bit of positioning here.
02:29 He gets cut off at the top there from his head and then his shoulder here a little
02:33 bit as he comes down into frame. So I'm just going to, increase his scale
02:40 ever so slightly. We'll try 102%.
02:43 I never liked upUNKNOWN anything that's going to be green screen.
02:49 But in this case, we kind of have to, 'cuz it's, it's off kilter.
02:53 So that get's us close. And let's take a look at our positioning
02:59 here again and see if we can line him up just a little better here right in the
03:03 middle, and see if we can get that. There we go that's pretty close.
03:08 Okay so now I'm going to take his transparency back up to 100%.
03:14 The first thing we gotta do is create a Garbage matte.
03:17 And the Garbage matte will allow us to get rid of all of this junk on the right
03:21 hand side here, and any noise or anything out here.
03:26 So come up here with the Pen tool, Ive got that layer selected.
03:29 And I'm just going to make a really rough outline here to work with, and, bring
03:35 this down just a little bit. So, I need to make sure that I'm not
03:41 getting too close, and I did here on, on the left side so I'm going to pull this out.
03:48 Can't get too close there and I'm also going to be feathering the edges here some.
03:53 To try to make sure we don't have anything too sharp there, and still he's
03:57 coming pretty close there for my comfort. So I'm going to bring this out a little bit
04:02 more here. Look at his hands and the shadows, and I
04:05 want to cut anything off on the right side. That looks pretty good.
04:10 So I'm going to come up here to my Mask, and mask feather and I'm going to go about 50 pixels.
04:18 And that gives me a nice Soft mat that's a Garbage mat that I can work with.
04:25 So now I'm going to apply key light. I come down to my Keen and Key light and
04:30 I'm going to grab my screen color. Which I'm going for the green first.
04:36 I'm going to concentrate on one at a time come up here to my Screen matte mode and
04:40 that way I can control my Screen matte settings.
04:45 I'm going to bring my clip white down just so that I get rid of the ghosting.
04:49 And everything that's going on in the middle there.
04:51 Got some noise in the background I want to get rid of, so I'm going to bring the clip
04:55 black up just a bit. And I'll come down to my final result and
04:59 see what I got to work with. Looks like I've got a little bit of
05:03 silliness here on the edges. So, I'm just going to pull down the
05:06 shrinkage just a bit to knock that down. And soften that ever so slightly.
05:14 We go to about 6 or 7, here we go. And that's going to give us a really nice edge.
05:21 Now we can turn on these other layers here and see how well we're doing with
05:25 the green screen part of it. That's pretty clean, I'm happy with that.
05:31 And now we're going to apply another Passive key light on this.
05:35 And we'll just come up here and go to Effect key light and we're going to get
05:40 rid of the blue. Now this really only works if your
05:44 character doesn't have any you know predominant blue or green in it.
05:49 Obviously otherwise you're gonns be punching holes in it.
05:52 So we're going to come up here and look at our Screen matte.
05:57 I'm not going to crank it quite as aggressively as we did before just
06:01 because I need the shadows of his hands and his body to show up on the blue screen.
06:07 But I do see there's a little bit of ghosting out here so I do need to make
06:10 sure that we're not going to have any transparency in our Santa.
06:15 So I'm going to pull this down just so that disappears.
06:18 And I'm probably going to do just a little bit of softening here, and I'm
06:21 also going to add a little screen pre-blur. And this should hopefully help knock down
06:27 some of the noise in the shadows, too. So that's good enough for now.
06:34 We'll take a look at that. And see what we've got going on here.
06:40 So we have to deal with a few issues here.
06:43 We got a little bit of blue showing up on the edges here that I'd like to knock down.
06:48 And also his hand gets a little bit transparent there.
06:52 That I want to work on that as well. So, in our next movie, we'll get into how
06:57 do we isolate some of these issues? How do we knock these things down, how do
07:03 we correct for those kinds of problems? And then, of course, adjusting levels to
07:09 try to bring them together.
07:11
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Masking to isolate parts of an object to key
00:02 'Kay, now that we've done our first pass on our complex key, and complex meaning
00:06 both blue and green in the same shot, to create our sandwich here.
00:12 We have a couple issues we need to deal with.
00:15 And one is, before Santa even appears, we've got kind of this blue streak showing
00:19 up here. So, I'd like to matte that out, and also
00:23 his hand goes a little bit transparent here on the seam, and I want to try to
00:28 address that. So probably the best way to do that is,
00:34 that element there, his hand, is a bit seperate from the rest of his body.
00:40 It's the first thing we see as he comes around, so we do want that to show up first.
00:45 So, probably the quickest way to do this is to just duplicate this layer.
00:50 So, I'm just going to do a Cmd + D, or, Ctrl + D on the PC.
00:53 And I'm going to eliminate this mask that's in here now.
00:59 So, just go there and click that out. And then I'm going to come out here.
01:04 His hand doesn't really move other than it just shows up, and then it stays there
01:08 gripped to the door until he takes it away.
01:11 So, I want to find the space there, where his hand is probably biggest.
01:16 It comes down from the top, and it goes about there, about eye level.
01:20 So I'm going to just come to a spot there, where I can draw a new mask.
01:25 And I use the Pen tool, and I'm just going to kind of make kind of a nice roundy mask
01:31 here, around this area. And make sure I don't get too close to
01:37 the shadows. And then just complete it.
01:40 And I'm going to come up here to my Mask > Feather.
01:44 And I'll say about 15 pixels so that's not harsh, and then I can also bring it
01:49 down a little bit. Now let's just to isolate this second
01:54 layer here. So that we're only really looking at that layer.
01:59 And it's going kind of double up on our shadow a bit here, so I might do just
02:06 probably a little more blur on the blue here.
02:12 A little bit more blur, and I might come into my screen matte here and bring this
02:18 clip black up just little bit more. Just so that it, it helps knock down some
02:26 of the noise and isn't too strong in there.
02:31 And what that does is it allows us to get rid of this blue streak down here, during
02:37 this duration. And the way we do that, is we have to
02:42 kind of look and see okay when does the hand first appear.
02:46 It appears right about here. So, I'm going to do this in a couple of
02:49 different methods. I'm going to adjust my transparency of
02:53 both of these layers here. And or the opacity, however you want to
02:58 look at it. So his hand starts right about here, I
03:02 want it to be, this one to start right there at 100%.
03:08 And I want it to go back one frame. And I'm going to select 0.
03:15 That way I've got 0 opacity there. Now I've got the rest of the Santa is
03:20 coming in right about here. That's his thumb, so right about here,
03:26 see the ball from his hat showing up right about there.
03:30 So I'm going to click the stopwatch for 100% there and then back one frame, and hit zero.
03:39 And that gets rid of this, this noise in there.
03:42 So it all happens fairly quickly. So if we just do a quick RAM preview here
03:46 of just the first section, we can see that it's hidden a little bit by all of
03:50 this that's going on around us. So let's just do a quick RAM preview.
03:57 So it minimizes the amount of the artifacts that show up in here, because
04:02 it was low resolution. And we can probably fade in this little
04:07 bit right here a little more, so it doesn't just pop up on screen all of a sudden.
04:13 Helps to fade it in, so it's not so noticeable.
04:16 So those are a couple different tricks we can try.
04:19 The other thing we have to do here still is to apply a level to him, a color level
04:25 that's going to work. So I come down here to my Color
04:30 Correction and like to use Levels. And we'll bring this out here a bit.
04:35 So let's take a look at our Santa here. He's got a little bit of this green
04:39 casting on him here, and overall he's a little bit too dark, a little too contrasting.
04:45 So I'm going to brighten him up just a bit. I'm going to enhance some of the red
04:50 channel just a little bit. I'll try not to go too red on his face here.
04:56 There we go. And then with the blue, I may brighten up
04:58 the whites a little a bit. I can bring this up just a bit, and that
05:03 helps brighten up some of our whites and takes some yellowy tinge out of him there.
05:15 Again, it's a subjective amount that you want to work with here.
05:20 Just a little bit in the shadows here, help knock some of that green out as well.
05:24 So it's a subjective amount of levels that you're going to apply to it, but
05:28 that really does help sell the whole thing.
05:32 So if we do a RAM preview here, we'll be able to see a little bit of our effect
05:36 especially coming in the beginning there. So, I've got one already done here.
05:43 We've got our completed one. And we can see how this works out
05:46 together here. You can go back in here, and reverse
05:49 engineer anything that I've done in the completed version.
05:53 And you'll be able to see if your settings match that as well.
05:58 So that's using a sandwich of a complex key, blue and green together all in the
06:02 same shot. And then isolating different parts of it,
06:08 to get just the key that we want in the areas that we really want to try to make
06:14 the composite work.
06:18
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Using multiple layers and roto on a bad greenscreen shot
00:00 Well sometimes you're given some green screen footage from a client, that wasn't
00:04 really shot well. And that's actually going to happen a lot.
00:09 So, you need to know what kind of steps you could take, to try to correct it, but
00:12 still try to get some kind of a composite out of it.
00:16 In this case, this was just a couple frames from a shot on nationally
00:21 recognized commercial, and a celebrity. So, I just wanted to highlight the areas
00:27 of issue here. And she's moving quickly, there is some
00:31 motion blur in here. We have a horrible green screen back there.
00:35 It wasn't even lit, it was just kind of thrown up on a wall in the background.
00:39 And it's a very soft shoot, so the problem is, just using a straight process
00:44 of just using Keylight or something, and hoping to get a decent Key out of this,
00:48 isn't going to be enough. Because we're going to have to do so much
00:55 to the Key, to try to get some of this hair in here.
00:59 Without giving her a total haircut, that it's not going to make the foreground
01:03 actually that usable. So, we'll have to do this in a couple
01:07 steps in a couple layers. Well let's first, let's work on the Key itself.
01:10 So, I've got this selected, come down here to my Key and select Keylight.
01:16 And I'll go ahead and grab this, and Keylight does a pretty good job of
01:21 pulling out that horrible color. Let's look at our Screen Matte, though,
01:26 to see what the whole story is. And we've got all this noise and problems
01:30 in here. Let's scroll down the Screen Matte, and
01:33 then I'll roll back the clip white. And pull that back to a point where I'm
01:38 right up to the edges here, and by doing that I'm introducing more noise out here.
01:43 So, I have to kind of pull that up, and just enough to, not kill the hair in
01:48 here, but to get rid of this noise. And let's look at our final result here,
01:55 I'm going to have to bring up the Screen Softness, to about two.
02:01 And maybe even a little bit of the Screen Pre-blur, we'll go to about four.
02:08 And see how that looks. And that helps a bit.
02:11 Now, I've just got this on my default black background of my composition.
02:16 And a lot of times, I go in there and I can change my, my background color and my
02:19 composition settings. But sometimes I want to cycle through
02:24 various colors, just to make sure that my edges are still going to be visible,
02:28 depending on what I'm composting against. So, a real quick and easy way to do that
02:33 is to create a new layer. Get a Solid layer here, and I'll use this
02:38 default white here, drag that down here to the bottom.
02:42 And that way, I can see over this background color what I'm really working
02:46 with here. And if I want to cycle through and see
02:50 what various colors might look like, I just come up here to my Layer > Solid
02:54 Settings, I click on the Color Swatch here.
02:58 And then I can in real time, cycle through colors and see what problems I
03:02 may be introducing, depending on the background that's going to happen in there.
03:08 You know, if I go into the darker colors, we can see it starts looking a little
03:11 muddier in there. But this is just a real quick and easy
03:14 way, to see what kind of backgrounds will work with this composite.
03:18 At the settings that we're working with, and what we'll have to tweak a little more.
03:23 I'm going to go ahead and cancel that, and keep this off white color in here
03:26 right now, and that kind of gives me an idea of what I'm going to be working with.
03:32 It's a little bit alias. It's a little bit nasty in there.
03:35 So, I'm going to blur that a bit, because this is going to be my Background layer
03:39 of the sandwich composite. So, I'll come up here to my Effects and
03:45 go to Blur and Sharpen and grab Camera Lens Blur and apply that.
03:50 Now I want to give it a little bit more. So, I'll go to about ten.
03:53 And we'll see how that looks. Okay, and that's looking a lot better.
03:58 At least as far as the hair, back here. And that's really all I'm concentrating
04:02 on, right now, is this hair back here. And how it looks against my background.
04:07 I want an idea of the hair there. But I don't want it look real chunky or
04:12 really exaggerated, so that's going to work really well.
04:16 Now of course this is actually blurred up my foreground a lot, and I don't want
04:20 that but what I'm going to do is just duplicate this layer.
04:26 And bring that up on top, going to get rid of the Camera Lens Blur and the
04:30 Keylight on that layer. And now I'm going to create a really Soft
04:35 Mask just inside this hairline. So, that I can reintroduce, these subtle
04:41 tones, all the right color correction and everything for this, cuz that's another
04:45 issue too you have to consider. When you're doing a composite, and
04:49 especially if you're doing a composite for a client who gives you raw footage.
04:54 This was shot on a red, so everything is really flat.
04:57 That hasn't been colorized. They're going to colorize and post.
05:00 And so, you're just creating an alpha for them or creating a composite.
05:04 You have to keep everything flat. So, you can't introduce new colors,
05:08 contrasts or anything like that. So, you have to deliver just a nice
05:12 sandwich back for them, so this has to remain the same.
05:15 So, this is why we will be making a Mask here.
05:18 So, I'm going to go down about 25%. And I'm going to select my Pen tool, I'm
05:24 on my frame zero here, and just going to create a Mask here that will work just
05:30 inside her hairline. I've gotta see that I've got an issue
05:36 here which will go to transparency I don't want that in there at all.
05:40 And then bring this down here, and just create a really crude Mask here, cause
05:47 then we're going to Feather this out a bit, too.
05:53 So, what I want to do now is Feather this mask, so I just come down here, troll
05:59 down my Mask and come to Mask Feather, put in 50.
06:05 And if we want to see what that looks like let's hide the layer below it.
06:08 It gives us a nice soft edge there on our mask, so that'll work just fine.
06:13 Now, the thing with doing a Roto on just this foreground, is, we don't have to be
06:18 real exact. We just want to try to make sure that we
06:22 see all of this skin detail in here. And elements this motion blur, so that it
06:26 really isn't affected much at all. But we do need to follow this a long time.
06:31 We only have two frames here, so it shouldn't be too difficult.
06:33 We go to the next frame. And we'll see that her head's moved to
06:37 the right, so we need to move all of our elements to the right and I'm just going
06:40 to select some of these points. Move them over.
06:45 There's some green showing through, here so this one has to move over as well.
06:50 And then of course we've gotta move these over considerably cause her head's tilted
06:54 as well. So, now I can see what I've got to work
06:59 with there. And click off the mask, so I can see what
07:03 it's going to look like between frame zero and one.
07:08 And it's a very slight tinge of green through here.
07:12 May not be an issue, depending on what happens to the frame after that.
07:17 So, I may consider moving these in, if that was the case.
07:20 But one thing I am noticing is, the, Camera Lens Blur that I applied to this
07:24 Background layer, has actually introduced pixels along the edge here that I don't want.
07:32 Something to remember to click on, is in here, there's a button here, repeat edge pixels.
07:38 So, we're going to click that. That will eliminate that, problem from
07:43 showing up there. So, we want to make sure that that's
07:46 taken care of on that background layer. Then this front layer here.
07:51 We've got the mask going on in here. And we haven't introduced any other
07:55 problems here. So, that pretty much takes care of, that,
07:58 now if we want to be able to see, what this looks like compared to the original.
08:04 Well we can just duplicate this, original layer here again, and then we can turn
08:08 off our Keylight, and turn off the Camera Lens Blur.
08:13 And to be able to see before and after. Now we do have kind of an issue here.
08:18 There's this dark edge here that shows up in the original.
08:22 And once we've blurred that, that's kind of, that's not really there in the original.
08:30 But that shouldn't be an issue once everything's moving.
08:33 Because it kind of moves and changes and shifts there.
08:36 But it would be worse if it was the other way around, because then we'd be losing
08:39 hair and losing an edge here. So, I think in this case, this is a good
08:43 process to go through and really use the layers to your advantage to, be able to
08:49 make this sandwiched composite of sorts. And still keeping the integrity of the
08:57 original image to give back to your client.
09:02
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3. Motion Tracking and Match-Moving
Motion tracking with After Effects
00:02 Now in this chapter, I'm going to cover several different things, which why I've
00:06 got several different components in this project, that I'm going to be introducing
00:10 to you. That will cover various different parts
00:15 of this composition process. And we're going to be starting with
00:18 tracking, the build in motion trackers. That are built in to After Effects, and
00:24 I've got this footage. It was provided to us by Hollywood Camera
00:28 Works, Per Holmes, and he's got some clips you can go and download there.
00:34 Green screen clips to use for training and tutorials.
00:37 Well the one problem with this clip, and he even pointed itLAUGH out, was that
00:42 when he put the green screen outside the window.
00:46 He put it too close to the window, as far as the tracker points are concerned.
00:52 The green screen's fine, could probably use a little more light, but other then
00:56 that, the problem with the tracker points is that they're too close to the window.
01:02 So, if you put anything out there other then maybe like a brick wall, that's
01:05 supposed be right outside the window. It's going to look fake.
01:08 It's not going to move well. As you can see here, it almost follows
01:12 the reflection of the tree in here. So, that's how close the paper is where
01:18 the screen is to the window. So, we have to eliminate those tracker points.
01:25 There too bright. They're going to show up.
01:26 We can't really Key them out easily without them showing.
01:30 The reflections will mostly go away. Except for these bright ones here.
01:34 From other windows, but that's okay. We want some reflections to give it
01:38 believability in here. So, in this movie, I'm going to focus on
01:42 primarily the tracking, the motion tracking.
01:47 And I'm going to use the built-in tracker.
01:49 Now what I've done is, I've created some patches here.
01:53 You'll be able to follow along, just open up the chapter three folder, and you'll
01:57 find this project in there. So, you'll be able to follow along with
02:01 all of these. Now I'm going to just turn these on, so
02:03 they're visible, and you can see they're all different layers.
02:07 They're Solid layers that I've created a little mask around and a little Feathered
02:11 Mask around each one. Well, the problem is this, they have to
02:16 follow along the patch in the movie. So, I could manually do that, and try to
02:20 match move them, but it's so much quicker to just apply a tracking source to them.
02:25 So, I'm going to select the actual video file.
02:29 It's a Image Stack, which is what they use a lot in.
02:32 Hollywood film making. So, we'll double-click that and open it
02:36 up and now we've got that active so, I can see my patches here.
02:42 So, I'm going to make sure that I'm back on frame zero, and I'll open up my
02:46 Tracker panel here. I'll click on Track Motion and the only
02:50 thing I really need to follow, is the motion for here.
02:54 I'm not concerned about rotation, or scale or anything, cuz I'm going to have
02:58 just one track point for each patch. So, what I will do is get this opened up
03:03 a little bit, center it over the patch over the piece of tape here, and that we
03:08 will be able to follow this. Track it.
03:14 And just align that a bit, open this up a little bit so it looks at the range.
03:20 And then I come over here to the Analyze button and click the Analyze Forward, and
03:24 it will go through the footage. Click here and it will find all of the
03:30 edges and it will track that. One little piece of tape there.
03:38 And there we go. Okay, now it looks like because the
03:44 camera was dolling in. It got a little bigger.
03:50 So, we might want to play the scale, if we have to, for the actual Patch layer.
03:56 But I'm not too worried about that right now.
03:58 It's just a patch. So, let's actually edit our target.
04:01 We want this to go to our first layer. So, we'll go to Edit target.
04:08 And that will bring up this. And we want to make sure that it is on the
04:12 line green solid one. Click OK, and then apply.
04:17 Now it's going to ask us x and y dimensions and we say yes and here's our
04:22 tracker, and here's the first layer here. Now.
04:28 One thing that happens when you're tracking, sometimes the anchor point of
04:32 the layer isn't quite centered, so it throws everything off.
04:37 So, if we're looking here in our composite.
04:39 It may not look like it's really centered on there.
04:42 Although that's a real easy fix, we just select the layer in the timeline, click
04:47 A, for anchor point, and we can make a quick little adjustment to the numbers here.
04:54 Position that in. And that looks like it does a fairly
04:58 clean job of it. Click off it, and we can probably go up
05:02 just a little more. And the reason why we are patching these
05:07 up, is so they don't show when we do our actual composite.
05:11 We want them to kind of go invisible. So, we want the reflections to show, we
05:16 want all the lights and everything. So, we want it to be a believable scene,
05:20 but we don't want these things to show. And we're not going to use them.
05:23 They're not usable. So, we're doing several things here.
05:26 We're tracking some things. We're patching up holes.
05:29 We're cleaning up our plate, which is almost like doing a garbage matte on a
05:32 green screen. But just kind of a little reverse.
05:36 So, I'm going to repeat this process for the other three layers, and each time you
05:42 do that, you open up your actual video Source window.
05:49 Click Track Motion, and it will create a new tracker.
05:52 You can see tracker two. Position, and then I do the exact same
05:56 thing, but just on the next patch. And I'll repeat this for each layer that
06:02 I need to track this for. And then the same thing.
06:06 I will make sure that I'm at zero, and I will Analyze Forward.
06:16 Looks like it captured well. Then Edit Target, make sure that I've got
06:23 the right layer selected, which I'm going for layer two.
06:27 Otherwise, it will overwrite my other data or conflict with it.
06:31 And then hit Apply, and OK. And we should be good to go here.
06:38 We've got two of the patches done here. And again, I need to move my anchor point
06:41 for my second one. So, A for Anchor.
06:46 Move that up. And then over, and there we go.
06:53 So, I'll just repeat this with the other two, and we'll move on to the next movie.
07:01
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Basics of match-moving
00:02 Okay, now we have our patches all tracked in there.
00:05 And you can see they patch up the tape holes pretty well.
00:08 They're not perfect, but it's good enough that we can pull a decent Key and not
00:11 have them distract from it. So, I've already done that for you in the comp.
00:16 It's the Christmas Window Home comp, you can open that up.
00:20 And you can turn on the Keylight, which reveals our background.
00:24 And you see our background plate is just a static JPEG here.
00:29 And in this case, he's going to be the focus, our snowman.
00:33 He's going to be the star of the show. So, I want my foreground to match my
00:37 background, which is that warm, incandescent Christmas lights.
00:42 So, I've already applied some levels here.
00:45 And you can go in there and see exactly which settings I've made on the different
00:49 channels to closely match this. So, now my lighting of my foreground
00:54 plate matches. We just have to match our motion.
00:59 Now, I'm going to track part of the foreground, just to match my background
01:04 to the foreground as far as camera motion is concerned.
01:09 And what we'll do is then we have to physically match move, and that is a
01:14 process of actually moving our anchor points.
01:19 So, that we actually have a believable emotion with the camera.
01:25 And that's all very subjective. And you're going to see, that process takes
01:28 a little bit of time. But first let's get our tracking going here.
01:31 I've got my foreground selected, and instead of double-clicking it which only
01:36 opens up this other comp we've done here. I've just got, selected once and I come
01:42 over here to my Tracker window and hit Track Motion.
01:46 And now it opens it up here for us to find a track point, and I'm going to just
01:50 move this up here to this little piece of the chandelier here.
01:56 And center that in there cuz I need some contrasting spot there, and make sure
02:00 that I'm at frame zero here and then hit my Analyze Forward.
02:05 Then we'll come back and finish the track.
02:09 Okay, so we can see the difference of the motion in here, and it's not a real
02:15 smooth curve, even though the dolly looks pretty smooth.
02:23 We do have some motion here of the camera tilting and moving on the dolly.
02:30 So, that's really important to note that, because when we apply that to our
02:33 background, we'll see that it does kind of tie the two together, at least as far
02:36 as that's concerned. So, after edit our target and we want to
02:42 select our background here, which is this JPEG and click OK, and then apply x and y
02:48 and now we're back to our comp here. We can see that the tracker has put some
02:56 points in here, and we can click that off.
03:01 And then we can look and see what it did to our background here, if we twirl down
03:04 our Transform. We've got a Key frame on every single
03:08 frame of this which is our tracking position.
03:13 Let's take a look at the motion. And even though the camera motion looks
03:18 like it's moving our background okay. We still don't feel it's that believable
03:23 because it's not really changing in its scale or in proportion to the window.
03:29 The background is just staying too static, and we need it to kind of move up
03:33 and over in frame so that it feels. And that's where we have to do this
03:39 subjective match moving. Well, the first thing we need to do is
03:43 find out at what point does it start making most of the moves.
03:47 So, I use the scrubber here after I've done a RAM preview, so I can kind of see
03:50 that easily. And it looks like it kind of takes off
03:55 here, starts taking off here. So, I know I'm going to have to make some
04:00 motion somewhere in here, and so I'm going to make a little marker here.
04:05 Let's click marker, and drag it over. And then, somewhere over in here, it
04:10 starts to slow down. It doesn't really slow down entirely till
04:14 the end. But it does most of its move before it
04:17 eases in here toward the end. So, somewhere in here.
04:21 I"ll probably stop more of the actual match moving, so I'll move that here and
04:27 then just let the tracker take it from that point.
04:33 So, the match moves I want to make on this layer.
04:37 Will be, actually it's position, but I'm not going to change position because my
04:40 position is already used up with all my track points.
04:44 What I can change is my scale and my anchor point.
04:47 So, my anchor point is the point where if you just click and drag that, you see
04:51 that it moves it around in there. The anchor point is the actually
04:57 centering of your frame. So, I'm going to undo that, of course.
05:02 I will click my stopwatch for anchor point and in scale, because I'm going to
05:06 leave it at that as the starting point. And then when I come down here, I kind of
05:13 note that, well, the camera is moving this way and is kind of zooming in a bit.
05:20 It's coming in on the background. And it's kind of moving up in frame.
05:26 And if we were to really look out there, the, the snowman would move off to our left.
05:31 So, I'm going to just generalize a position, at this point.
05:36 And I'm going to bring up the scale, a little bit.
05:40 Then I want to make the x settings on the anchor point, I want to move those to the
05:46 right, to push the layer to the left some.
05:51 And then I'm going to take the y settings and move those up, so it comes up in
05:55 frame just a little bit. And that's just a first step
06:00 generalization, for making my match move. So, I can take a look here and see how
06:05 much am I moving it, too much in one direction?
06:08 Am I not making it smooth enough? And one thing I'm going to do is actually
06:14 do an ease out of this setting here. So I right-click on both of those Key
06:19 Frames, Key Frame Assistant, Easy Ease Out, that will make that a much smoother
06:23 transition, so it doesn't just take off. And then here I will ease in, so I'll
06:30 select both of those. Right-click and Easy Ease In.
06:36 So, that means it won't just have a giant stop either.
06:39 So, now I can kind of scrub through, see how this works, and if its close enough.
06:46 So, I just have to kind of go back and forth.
06:48 And tweak this a bit. Maybe scale this a bit.
06:52 And play with it a bit. And try to get that matched in there, so
06:57 that it looks good. And this, takes a little bit of time to
07:02 do this, especially when you have kind of a start and a stop point.
07:07 We don't have key points along the way to really check in on.
07:11 So, we just have to kind of guess, okay, where's the camera pointing?
07:14 What is it focusing on? And then we move from there.
07:17 Then in our next movie we'll take this to the next step and we'll start adding in
07:22 some other believable elements, such as some snow and things to really kind of
07:26 pull this together. But in the meantime, go ahead and play
07:32 with this, and see if you can move your background anchor points and your scale,
07:36 to kind of match what you feel this should be.
07:41 And then, if you have to, go to the completed one.
07:43 And kind of look and see what was done with the final.
07:48 And see how close you are in your guesstimation of those.
07:52 And we'll come back to the next movie.
07:57
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Match-moving with depth and scale
00:02 Okay, so I've settled on my match moves for this shot.
00:05 And I ended up moving my end down further past this, point that I initially selected.
00:13 Just because it was just, not working for me.
00:16 So, I moved it down a little further, and you can see that it's very subtle.
00:21 The camera does still keep moving even after the background looks like it's
00:25 done, but that's just because it's making a very subtle pan in.
00:30 And when we're done here, we're going to have different layers and we're actually
00:34 going to create some depth of field in our final movie.
00:38 But at this point, I'm pretty happy with my suggested moves.
00:41 And you'll be able to go to the completed one and see, what the actual numbers are,
00:45 and compare them to what you ended up with.
00:49 And you may be happier with the moves that you ended up making, it's a very
00:51 subjective process. Match moving is all about the eye, and no
00:55 two people are going to do the exact same match moves.
00:59 Cuz it's not a mathematical process, it's all very much a visual process.
01:03 So, with that being said, I've got my background is done, the foreground is complete.
01:11 Now, you'll see there's a couple black solid layers in here, well one is
01:16 primarily just a mask that I've created. And the mask is for a particle generator
01:23 for snow. And I created this very soft edge mask
01:27 here to block out the Snow layer, the particle generation that I've done here.
01:34 And if we look up here, we'll see that I have used the CC Snow effect which comes
01:40 with After Effects CS5. And you can you know, play with the
01:45 different settings. I have come up with this particular
01:49 amount which reads really well for me. I'm really happy with the amount of snow
01:54 as it's coming down. And I've also motion tracked the Snow
01:58 layer as well. So you can see the transform I've already
02:02 done in Motion Track. And I've applied the same anchor point
02:06 and scale settings that I did on the snowman.
02:10 Because I wanted to make sure that it moved in the same amount, and looked believable.
02:16 I didn't want anything looking like it was slipping and sliding.
02:20 So, basically, I took the same key frames for my background.
02:25 Because the Snow layer is going to be kind of consistent with the motion of the
02:29 background outside. And I just copied and pasted them in here.
02:33 I didn't have to create a new motion track and do all of that.
02:36 I just copied and pasted what I was happy with, with my background.
02:41 Well the problem was, for me, seeing that if all of the snow was bright and white,
02:45 even clear out here in the top in the, on the back.
02:50 It didn't seem like it was really being lit, by the artificial lighting from the
02:55 tree or from the inside. And of course at this point it still
02:59 doesn't, so I created this mask which eliminates some of the snow.
03:04 It's a very soft mask which is several hundred, yeah, it's 500 pixels of
03:09 feathering, which gives it this great big gradation here.
03:15 And that's a solid black layer here. And so we'll close that out.
03:20 This layer is using the Track Matte method.
03:23 Which I've got Layer > Track Matte and that's Alpha matte on that black mask.
03:30 So what, you have to have a solid layer to apply your snow to.
03:33 So that's why I've done that, and then I've come up here with my hue saturation,
03:38 and I've given it some coloring. I've given it this colorization to give
03:44 it kind of this yellow cast of light here.
03:48 And that way it looks like it's actually snow that's been illuminated by the fake light.
03:55 And then of course, I've added some lens blur to it, and that is changed over time.
04:02 If I look down here to my Effects, and look at my Lens Blur.
04:06 I can see that I've changed my i-, the iris of the blur over time, and that's
04:11 what we're going to get in next. When we talk about the whole depth of
04:16 field and how that changes when the camera changes, and that changes our
04:21 focus as well. But you can see as it begins it looks a
04:26 little more realistic as it's off, and you can again apply this overtime in a
04:31 subjective manner. We'll get into that into the next movie,
04:37 of how to create that real, tie-in, of the depth of field, when you're moving
04:42 the camera, and you're changing your focus.
04:47
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Creating a simulated depth-of-field effect
00:02 Now that we have our composite completed, with all of our, motion tracking and our,
00:07 match moving, and the particle generator, layer, added in, and that's also, copied,
00:13 and, tracked, I want to show you how to make this even another level of
00:17 believability in the composite, and that is especially important when you have
00:23 either a zoom in or a camera in motion, and that is changing our depth of field
00:28 and changing our focus. So in this shot here we're actually
00:38 moving the camera to look at the candles and then out the window.
00:44 So, to make this shot more believable, and put our focus on the snowman and the
00:49 tree with the Christmas lights on out there, I'm changing the focus from our
00:53 foreground plate to our background plate over time.
00:58 And that's a very simple process of just using the camera lens blur and if I break
01:03 this down I can show you that I'm doing it all at the same time.
01:09 We can open up this Christmas window home completed.
01:13 And you can look at the effects here and the lens blur of the top layer, the
01:17 foreground layer. You can see that I've got some points here.
01:24 It's where the camera is making most of the move toward the end.
01:29 And that felt like it was about the right place to do it.
01:32 So that's when I started to change the focus as it's moving in, and, and panning
01:37 to the right a little bit. Now, I've changed the iris radius of my
01:42 foreground plate, so that it's totally in focus up to this point.
01:47 And I've set the key frame. I have to use the stopwatch here and I've
01:51 set my first key frame to measure at zero.
01:55 That means it's totally in focus and then out here at about six seconds, I've taken
02:00 it up to 15 and, did an ease in and an ease out on those.
02:06 And you can see that it goes over time. Now I've matched those in contrast to the
02:10 layers underneath. Now if we twirl down the solid layer here
02:15 and we look at the lens blur for that, I'm doing just the opposite.
02:23 I'm going from 15 down to about seven, because if I go to zero there, we would
02:27 be focusing on the snowflakes, and I wanted them, since they're in motion, to
02:32 have still a little bit of blur and keep them soft, at this point.
02:39 And then, if we look at our background plate entirely, then we can see that we
02:43 do go down to zero there because we do want to bring the snowman and the lights
02:47 in focus there. Since the snowflakes are in between and
02:53 they are moving, we want them to stay a little bit blurrier.
02:59 So, we play this back and we look and see that that pull of the rack focus as the
03:04 camera's moving in, really sells the believablity of this composite a lot more
03:10 definitely, than just the elements themselves.
03:17 So, take into consideration what you're trying to achieve when you are making
03:21 your composite. And especially if there's camera moves,
03:25 if there's pans, if there's zooms. Consider if you have the ability to pull
03:30 out your layers like we have here of using a little bit of a depth of focus
03:36 adjustment in there to really sell that believability between the two.
03:45
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Using mocha for AE to track and insert objects
00:02 I'm going to show you how to use Mocha for AE with After Effects to do motion tracking,
00:08 and replace an object on another moving object.
00:14 I've got this video footage here, that is this truck driving by here, an SUV and
00:19 it's got a license plate on there. And I want to replace that license plate
00:25 with one that I've made in Photoshop. So I've got one here, I did this
00:30 obviously for Adobe MAX a couple years ago.
00:34 And this is kind of a fun project, but it really explains the process well.
00:40 And right now, I've got it scaled up at 100% which is what we want for that layer.
00:47 That's what the whole thing looks like. But you want to make sure that you're
00:51 insert layer is at 100%, and that it's at least as large or larger than the visible
00:56 space in your comp. And the reason is that were using Corner
01:02 Pinning in Mocha AE, which will then size and scale it down to where we want it.
01:09 The process is fairly straightforward. I just have a comp here and you can open
01:14 up this comp as well for the Mocha license plate tracker.
01:20 And I've just got my Footage layer and I've got my license plate layer on top
01:24 and I've just set this at frame 0. And I'm going to go to Mocha AE, and this
01:30 is where I actually do the tracking. And I start by selecting the actual
01:36 license plate movie, which is the MOV file and it will determine everything
01:42 that's in the files. I just click OK and there we go.
01:52 And now, I see that it's squished a little bit.
01:55 I know this is a wider track, so I'm going to come over here to Clip.
02:00 The Clip tab down here. And I'm going to select, we'll, try this,
02:05 a D-1 Anamorphic. There we go.
02:09 And then, I can select the Hand tool here, make sure that we're in the frame.
02:14 Now, the first thing I want to do is actually create a track on this, so I'm
02:19 going to come here to the Spline, create a Spline and click just around,
02:23 generally, around the license plate. So, it's going to look for the most
02:30 contrasting data to follow, and we just really wanted to watch this license
02:34 plate, and this isn't really selecting what our Corner Pin are.
02:40 This is just to track that actual data. So I've got this starts at frame 0 and I
02:46 come down here to my Track Forward button, and I click that, and I watch it
02:51 go onto Track. And it's going to look at all the pixels
02:57 within that range, and it's going to follow them and track them all the way
03:00 through till the license place actually disappears off frame.
03:05 And then it will give us an error out saying there's nothing left to, to track.
03:10 That's okay, because by then, the, everything's going to be off screen, it
03:13 won't matter. So, we can scrub through here and look
03:17 and see how our track is. And we can also play it through the
03:22 Playback button there. You see it does a really fine job of
03:26 tracking that license plate. So, let's go back to our beginning here
03:31 and we're going to turn on our surface. And it's going to kind of create this
03:38 little box within here. Now, one thing we'll notice is, if we
03:44 grab a corner, we can see that up here, up in this area, we'll see a zoomed in
03:49 preview of it. So what I want to do is since I know I've
03:54 got a little bit of a frame around the license plate, I want to come out just
03:58 outside the corner there, and I'll do this on all four corners.
04:03 Accommodate for a little bit of the black frame.
04:07 And grab that on all four corners and just try to get as close as I can to what
04:12 I think will work well for my piece. This is where you have to be fairly
04:19 precise, because this is what's going to determine your Corner Pinning.
04:26 So sometimes, it helps to zoom in a little bit here with the Zoom tool, zoom
04:31 in and then back to my selector here. And so this is a little bit subjective.
04:39 You can determine how much of the area you want to cover.
04:44 But you do want to make sure that it looked right, the perspective is right and the
04:47 frame is good on here. So, you can pull this up just a little
04:51 bit more. And we're pretty good there.
04:57 So now, we can zoom back out and play forward.
05:04 Let it preview there. We can see how far it goes there.
05:11 Scrub across, and we see, there, it's, it's off by there anyways, so we don't
05:14 really care what data it does there. So, that looks pretty good and I'm just
05:18 going to come down here to Export Tracking Data click that, and I'm going
05:22 to copy to clipboard. And then, I can come back to AE, make
05:28 sure I've got my License Plate layers selected, make sure that I'm at frame 0.
05:35 And then, I just do a Command+V or Ctrl+V if you're on a PC and there is my license plate.
05:44 It's floating up here a little bit, because we have to adjust our anchor point.
05:48 So I select this layer, click A for anchor point, and then I can script
05:52 through my numbers here till I line it up with the other plate.
05:58 So it covers it up, there we go. And there's our license plate on our SUV.
06:09 Now, to give this just a little bit more believability, I do have Motion Blur on
06:12 that channel. So it does some motion blurring, but
06:16 still a little bit strong so, I'll probably just add a little Gaussian blur
06:21 to it and say maybe two. Two pixels, that way, it matches a little
06:28 more of the, details and the focus on the SUV itself.
06:34 So, that's a real quick two or three steps there to, to create a really solid
06:39 motion track replacing something on a moving object and using the layer in
06:43 AfterEffects, using M ocha 4AE and AfterEffects.
06:50
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4. Matte Painting and Moving Background/Foreground Plates
The HBO production of "John Adams"
00:05 Typically, we come in after everything's been shot on productions like this.
00:11 This was a long production for HBO itself I think, I think that by the time we got
00:16 on board they had been shooting for over a year.
00:22 and then we added another probably seven months or eight months to the, to that
00:27 schedule with our post work. but we were the primary house on it.
00:32 And we just, we just sort of get the, get the plates in and, and start working.
00:39 As far as creativity is concerned, your always working hand and hand with the supervisor.
00:43 And and they've always got their ideas of what it should look like.
00:47 In this case reality was the tune, reality was what we were suppose to do.
00:51 and I guess and they trusted us a lot to sort of look at the reference on that.
00:56 When one scene in particular for instance takes place in Boston Harbor.
01:01 And Boston Harbor 300 years later looks very different than Boston Harbor in the
01:05 late 1700s. Where, most of, I'd say about 70% of
01:09 Boston's been land filled in. so we got old maps out, from Boston, and,
01:15 did geometric projections and built geometry based off of those old maps.
01:22 and production really liked that sort of attention to detail I think.
01:27 >> The greenscreen shots I think the biggest challenges that we ran into were
01:30 some of the stuff that they shot for the Boston Harbor sequence.
01:35 they had some some interesting setups there.
01:40 Where there was camera moves that were moving through like fishing nets and, and
01:46 things like that. That were actually very, very
01:51 challenging, me, you know, it not only were they you know, shots with green
01:55 screen through fishing nets. but the camera was moving as well, so
02:00 they were doing a dolly. pushing along with the actors and, you're
02:04 supposed to see the, harbor behind them through the fishing net at it goes by.
02:09 So, those kind of, those kind of situations are probably the most
02:13 challenging, to, to get good keys, on, on that stuff.
02:18 Yeah, they just throw stuff up. It's not lit properly.
02:20 And it's just, there's this assumption that, you know, it's done on a computer.
02:24 And you can just push a button and make it all go away.
02:27 And it's so not that, you know. And thing that is a little frustrating
02:31 for me as an artist is, because there was so little time spent on the set
02:35 addressing those issues. it means we have to spend more time on
02:41 our back end trying to just fix the moot, the rudimentary things, just trying to
02:45 get a good key. you can spend a lot of time trying to do that.
02:51 And so that's time that could have been spent elsewhere to, to make other things
02:56 nicer and better. And and you know, it's just like you
03:00 know, the client's only helping themselves if they give us a green screen
03:04 that's good. Because that you know, or you know, they
03:09 shoot things properly. Because then we can, you know, we can
03:13 spend more time on the little things. And the little things are what really,
03:18 you know, bring it to life. And if you're just trying to, you, you
03:21 know, never have enough time. And if you're just trying to get over
03:24 the, make the most rudimentary things like keys ,and, and things like that work.
03:29 It's just so much time spent on that, where it could be spent on the little
03:33 stuff to make things nice. >> Well, it seems every show these days
03:38 gets more and more difficult from a from a production standpoint.
03:43 I think the they get more and more ambitious with their camera moves, and
03:47 because of that they have very short set up times.
03:52 there's not a lot of, there's not nearly as much effort put into the special
03:55 effects on set as there, as there was in the past I think.
03:58 So we've had to, to be able to adapt to that.
04:03 so, would we have liked green screen, a little more green screen, yes.
04:08 You know would we have liked sort of motion capture, camera tracking, or
04:12 better automated tracking capability. Yes we were able to do it with sort of
04:17 what exists that's today. And John Adams was, was, was designed to
04:22 be a very like almost an alverta, where, where the camera is a POV camera.
04:30 And you're in the midst of it, so virtually all of it was handheld.
04:34 Virtually all of it was shot with three roving cameras at once.
04:39 and it wasn't planned out during production.
04:44 A lot of it wasn't planned out during production.
04:46 The, this, the, the director wanted a very raw feel, as if you were there.
04:49 And so his cameras would go everywhere. and because of that you can't really put
04:54 up miles and miles of green screen. so there's a lot of you know, roto,
04:58 rotoscoping involved. which is part for the course.
05:03 We do match moving and tracking in a couple different ways.
05:06 again, we use off the shelf software like Bujo and Synthesize.
05:11 that, that works 70% of the time and then the other 30% is good old by eye, hand.
05:19 Yeah, I mean that's, that's the thing with, the thing with visual effects in
05:22 general is there's always an automated way and there's always the brute force method.
05:27 And the two clash. and that's how you get, your, your final product.
05:32 But you never can do it fully automatedly.
05:34 And you can,i would take forever if you did it by hand all the time.
05:37 So, one wins out over the other at some point.
05:41 two and a half of these have been sorta really.
05:45 one of the big changes with, with bigger composting of the last few years and I
05:49 think has really helped speed up the work flow.
05:54 It puts more, you know, work on the composer's part, butLAUGH, but in, you
05:58 know, rendering things into 2D is a lot faster than rendering things in 3D.
06:03 So whenever we can offload, that kind of, of work to the compositor, we tend to do it.
06:10 And compositors, I think, tend to really like expanding their, their work base.
06:15 and John Adams included a lot of 2D, what you'd be surprised wasn't fully 3D, I'd say.
06:22 in fact all of our, while we did build a set, a 3D set, of Boston based off of the
06:27 productions, our department sets. most of the usage of, of the sets and the
06:34 shots were done as a map paintings. Things that were derived from the 3D
06:40 work, but, but it was always manipulated into 2D and then used in 2D.
06:45 For a particular sequence in Paris, we had to replicate a large crowd.
06:50 Again, the material was shot in Bulgaria in a field, and only had about 300 extras
06:55 that were used for the crowd sequence. And normally what you'd do is you'd use a
07:01 300 extras and move them around the field.
07:05 And and, and a bunch of times and to clone them and create a crowd of 30 thousand.
07:12 But because of the roving cameras and the lack of time that the production had, we
07:17 only had one usable pass of 300 extras. that was near the camera, luckily, so we
07:24 had to build digital extras for, 90% of the other people, I would say.
07:30 And that was done with a combination of people on cars that we shot here in our
07:36 parking lot, and 3D animated characters. That were, done in exercise behavior.
07:44 I think at the end of the day, the more adaptable you are the, the better off
07:47 you'll be. You'll, you'll do a better job creatively
07:51 and, and be able to get the job done I think in a good amount of time.
07:56 Because, cuz no shots are as much planning as you'd like to do.
08:00 Especially when you're on a show like John Adams or you're handed material
08:04 after the fact. you still have to get it done regardless
08:09 of how, how it was shot. And the more you're able to think of new
08:13 ways of and completing that work. being creative about not only the, the
08:18 art of it but also the technique of it. The more successful you'll be.
08:22 >> You know, the pay off is when you make it work and you know.
08:26 And all comes together and, you know, people watch it and they go, so what'd
08:29 you do. That's the ultimate compliment, you know,
08:33 that's the one I'm always going for. I don't, I don't want people to know what
08:37 I did, you know, then, then I did my job.
08:40
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Creating set extensions: Adding buildings to a scene
00:02 A lot of times you'll need to do set extensions, or expanding a scene.
00:07 And in this case, I've got this small town.
00:11 It's kind of a, an older building's in a small town.
00:15 I wanted to kind of give this a little more of a metropolitan feel.
00:18 So I enlarge the building and added some new buildings and throw a water tower in there.
00:23 And it just made it a more metropolitan without looking like big city.
00:29 I just wanted to kind of increase my set here, and also get rid of a couple
00:32 elements here. And this was all done in Photoshop, and
00:36 After Effects. I didn't really use any other plugins or
00:39 anything to do this. I'm going to go through a couple movies here
00:43 and show you how to achieve this kind of a look.
00:46 Even when you're using you know, standard definition footage.
00:50 You know, you can notice I've got some noise up here.
00:53 So I'm going to show you a movie after this one about creating a matching noise movie
00:57 in Photoshop. Which is really kind of a cool trick and
01:01 I've been using it for years to kind of bring my mattes to life.
01:05 So let's take a look at how this was built and we'll go over to Photoshop.
01:10 And look at the actual pieces here. I started with just a single frame from
01:15 the video. And then I started adding in elements.
01:20 Well I wanted to work on this building here first.
01:23 And kind of create an extension of that building.
01:27 So I took elements of the building. Scaled it, and kind of kept my
01:30 perspective right. In there and I kind of wanted it to look
01:35 like it was accessible. Like there might be people walking around
01:38 or standing up there. So if we add some people in green screen
01:41 we could actually slip them in up there if they were walking around up on top of
01:45 this balcony area here. So I put a railing up there.
01:49 And built that so I've got my railing as a separate area.
01:54 I've got my top floor and of course the bottom floor here has been cleaned up and
01:59 added in there. Now, I've got a second building here and
02:04 this is basically all made from pretty much nothing.
02:08 I've got the crown on there I took from I don't know example of a, from another
02:12 building piece. I've go a base down here, that's just
02:17 along the bottom here, it kind of connects to the existing building, there.
02:22 Then I've got all these different shapes. And these are just shapes with a, just a
02:26 little bit of a layer style on it, to kind of create some dimension in there.
02:31 I've got all these many little shapes that I've painted in there to give me
02:35 details on this building. If I take them all out you'll see we
02:39 start losing all the building there, I take my windows.
02:42 And I've got a wall, that's basically what I started with and I painted all the
02:46 in, give it some color and texture. And just started adding elements in,
02:51 architecual elements. To kind of create this facade.
02:55 And then I've got another building here which was made up of several different
02:59 elements as well. I've got the front which is taken from
03:03 another photograph. I've put in this fake side here.
03:08 I've got a crown from another building that I put on there.
03:12 I've got this old cola sign and then a texture map for it.
03:16 So it kind of looks like it's all peeled paint from an old sign on an old building.
03:21 And you know, this isn't perfect but for a quick, you know, two or three second shot.
03:27 That's for a quick map painting, this definitely works.
03:30 This definitely gets the job done. Then I put in this water tower.
03:34 And just grab that from another image, stuck that in there.
03:39 And I'm not too concerned about anything covering up the trees here because I'm
03:43 going to use the blue sky back here. To map out the trees that are moving and
03:48 blowing in the wind in After Effects. So and I've got a cleaned up area here.
03:53 I wanted to get this traffic signal out of there, so I added that into the
03:57 building here. Now when I'm done here is I actually each
04:01 of these buildings with all the pieces. So it's easier to bring into After
04:06 Effects, and I just merge my group down, so that I just end up with one layer.
04:11 So if I look at that I've got one here that I've already merged all my groupings together.
04:17 Got each building, we've got the water tower separate.
04:20 Each building is separate here. And that way I've got a little bit more control.
04:24 I bring it all in as a composite, comp, into After Effects.
04:30 And you can see here, here's all my different buildings.
04:34 Different levels, so I bring that all in. And I use that as a comp in my main comp.
04:39 So all my buildings are in a comp here. So you can see as I cycle through here
04:43 I've got them just coming on over time. And there they are.
04:48 Now what I've done is I've made a second comp here.
04:51 And I've just got a masked out version of the movie here with the soft feather with
04:56 the trees and the sky in there. And then I just bring that in with a
05:01 Blending mode. So I go to my Blending mode here and I've
05:05 got Darken. Because I just want the trees to silhouette.
05:11 That area where they do overlap. So, it only darkens the pixels there.
05:16 So if they come over the buildings here, then in the water tower you'll see that
05:19 it actually just works that way. I didn't have to key anything that way.
05:24 I didn't have to use a plugin to key anything so you can see the difference there.
05:27 And so using just Photoshop and After Effects I was able to create a really
05:31 quick matte painting. And next movie I'll show you how to
05:35 create your noise movie in Photoshop and bring that into After Effects.
05:40 And that's going to add a little bit of noise to these still images here so they
05:44 blend in better. With the video itself.
06:00
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Creating video noise loops in Photoshop
00:02 And when I do my Matte Extensions and Matte Paintings and I'm using still
00:05 images, and bringing them in layers. I like to make sure that I'm adding back
00:11 in some noise on top of those static images, so that the blend is back into
00:15 the actual video itself. We notice up here in the sky, there is a
00:20 little bit of noise. This is a standard def shot.
00:25 So I needed to bring some of that pixel excitement back into the matted areas.
00:31 These big surfaces here needed a little bit of motion in there.
00:35 And there are some plug-ins that you can use, that create video noise.
00:40 I like to have a little more control of that and create my own noise movies in
00:44 Photoshop, and that's done pretty quickly.
00:49 We'll just open up Photoshop and create a new file, and since this is standard def
00:53 then go with 720 by 480. And I want a white background, and I'm
00:58 going to use the Noise filter. I go to Noise > Add Noise.
01:03 And I think for this, about 3% Gaussian monochromatic will work.
01:09 And we'll apply that. And I'm going to, create several frames
01:13 here because, just putting a static noise layer over something isn't going to do anything.
01:19 It's just going to have a grain to it. So it won't move.
01:22 We need to make an exciting noise pattern here.
01:26 Now the Noise filter in Photoshop creates a random pattern every time you apply it.
01:33 It doesn't repeat the pattern any two times.
01:36 So if we create a new layer, and apply the noise to it, then it will be a
01:39 different noise pattern. So I'll use my keyboard shortcuts here
01:44 and create a new layer Cmd + J, and then I use Cmd + Delete which gives me the
01:48 white background fill. And then Cmd + F, which re-applies the
01:53 last filter used to which was my noise filter.
01:56 And I, I'm now looking at a different layer with different noise pattern on it,
02:01 and I figure okay if I can do this for two layers, let's do it for like 15.
02:08 And then we'll have 15 frames of this noise loop that we can create.
02:13 And use it as a QuickTime movie. So I'm going to just keep doing the Cmd +
02:17 J, Cmd + Delete, Cmd + F, and do that several times, until I've got several
02:22 layers of this noise. And I'll do it until I've got 15 frames
02:32 duplicated here. And I think I'll go to copy 13.
02:39 I believe that gives me 15 total. Doesn't have to be exact.
02:44 It's just a noise loop, so it's not that big a deal.
02:46 So, I've got all these different frames in here, now how do I make this animation.
02:50 Well it's pretty simple, you go to Window > Animation.
02:54 And I click down here to make sure that I'm on Frame animation.
02:59 And the default here says ten seconds. So let's go to No Delay.
03:03 And I want this to loop forever, so I can preview it.
03:07 Now, I'm going to come over here to my palette menu and select Make Frames from Layers.
03:14 That's going to take everyone of these layers and create a frame out of it.
03:18 So, now when I play this back. You'll see I've got this nice video noise
03:22 loop going on in here. That works really great.
03:26 Now, I'm going to export this. So, I'll export it.
03:30 Render video and I make sure that I put it in the place where I want it to be.
03:35 I have got QuickTime movie settings here. I make sure that my size is correct, 720
03:39 × 480 for a standard def and that my frame rate is correct.
03:43 Well, I've already done that so let's skip that step.
03:46 I've already brought it in here, so now I've got this movie and we play back.
03:50 There's our video noise movie. And how do I utilize this?
03:53 Well I got to my composition. Now I've put this in here, and in this
03:57 case I've gone ahead and made a matt around the elements, the still elements
04:00 that I've got in here. So I've got this nice loose matte around
04:05 these elements, so that it constricts the noise to just that area.
04:10 And I've given it a Blending mode of Multiply.
04:14 So I go to Multiply. If I go to Normal we'll just see white noise.
04:18 We don't need that of course. So we'll go to our Blending mode of
04:21 Multiply, and that's just going to use the dark pixels.
04:25 And that's enough to excite the pixels to give us that effect of the video noise,
04:30 and kind of brings the static elements into the whole scene.
04:36 And your eyes don't go to as going hm, that looks fake.
04:42 So that's one way of creating a little more depth and believability in your
04:48 Matte Pintings, by creating a little video noise.
04:54
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Multiple moving elements and layers
00:02 But sometimes when I'm doing my Matte painting, I'll use some of the video
00:05 elements from the original layers to create part of my scene.
00:09 And keep things moving. As you can see here in this exploding
00:12 view here of all the different layers down in, I actually shot a video for
00:17 about oh, five minutes or so. Waiting for cars to come though.
00:23 And made a little more traffic on the road, by masking out individual cars and
00:28 putting them back into the scene. And since it was a locked off shot, that
00:33 was pretty easy to do. I also used some of the tree elements in
00:36 various parts of the scene. So that the paint layers aren't real
00:41 static, I've got wind blowing and the trees and wanted to keep that movement,
00:45 and that depth going there. So let's take a lot at this in After
00:50 Effects, now you'll be able to follow along With this file.
00:55 I've got this available for you to reverse engineer and take a look at, and
00:58 see how it was done. There's one plug in that it's going to
01:02 ask for, and that is the Tsunami Plugin from Red Giant.
01:07 You can go and download the demo version of it for free, it'll just be
01:10 watermarked, or it may have an x through it or something.
01:14 But you'll be able to try it out and see how that works.
01:17 That's a pretty incredible plugin. We'll take a look at that in minute.
01:20 Now, I've got my original layer down here.
01:24 That is my original movie layer. And it is a locked off shot, up on the
01:28 hill here, and if we scrub through and just see, there's not a whole lot of
01:33 traffic in this part of it here. I've got one car coming over the bridge
01:39 here, and a car moving there. Well how did I add all the other cars in?
01:43 I used different times of the movie and then masked them out.
01:49 If we, and so will that, there we go. I've got this one here, this truck, and
01:54 what I've done is I've actually created a paint mask for it.
02:00 And it's just a blue mask, so that I can see where it is in time as I move it
02:04 along there. And I just did that because it was just
02:08 an easy way to make a matte. And a Track Matte from that.
02:13 I could've just done the same thing with just moving the mask around, this way I
02:16 could do it quickly. I could scale it over time and this is
02:20 just an easy way to make a matte. So no matter how you want a matte or mask
02:24 in an element like that, I just use the different point in time.
02:28 When this car happened to be coming over the bridge.
02:31 And I could add that in and just mask around it.
02:35 So, that was a real easy way to handle that, because I don't have to worry about
02:39 a really sharp matte around the car because it's the same shot.
02:45 It's just a different part of time. It doesn't matter if there's trees in the
02:47 way or shadows or whatever. The only thing that would be an issue is
02:51 there is one point where this car from the foreground that starts here, does
02:55 cross over in front of these other cars. And I have to make sure that I matte them
03:02 out accordingly, as well. As it crosses the bridge here, I believe,
03:06 there's a little collision and I have to matte and match that.
03:11 So that the car, does show up as it goes through there.
03:14 So that's something, that's an area you have to be careful about.
03:18 So, that was just a real simple way of adding the cars back in.
03:23 Every other layer here, is these paint layers.
03:26 If we look at those in Photoshop, got em here.
03:31 I've got some elements, I'm not even sure if I ended up using this tree, I think it
03:35 took it back out. The back railing here was just a Paint
03:38 layer, and that was just painted in, it's all done in Photoshop.
03:43 So I kind of faked in some of the rust colors and some of the textures, a little
03:47 bit of the 3-D effect of the railing. And some of the shadows, I just kind of
03:52 faked that in. As I used my original clip here as my template.
03:58 And I've got my front rail, same type of thing there, created a railing.
04:01 The cliff is a photographic element that seemed like it was matching the lighting
04:06 pretty close. The lawn was fake and created in there
04:11 along with the curving for the road to follow along there.
04:15 Sidewalks are pretty much just a texture that were, was put on there to simulate
04:19 kind of like a bike path or a nice walking boulevard here.
04:23 And then the hills again, more photographic elements that just kind of
04:27 cover up our ugly background here. Our background, our original, this was
04:32 basically an industrial park. You know with so, some hills added in
04:36 there that weren't there in the original. So those are our paint elements that I
04:41 added in. And then we've got some of the trees, and
04:45 this is the area that I really wanted to show you.
04:49 I took some trees here, which were bushes that were moving in the wind over time.
04:54 And I was able to matte them or mask them back in cover up some of these other elements.
05:00 Like there's a big communications box I covered up there.
05:04 And over here, I've got one of the trees down here in the lawn area, and its
05:08 moving pretty briskly because there's a little bit of a breeze or wind that day.
05:15 And then there's some shrubbery back along there that I also put in to kind of
05:18 blend in this hillside and make everything seem real.
05:22 And that really helps bring in your static elements, to tie them in and make
05:26 them feel a little more real without doing a whole lot of work.
05:31 And I didn't have to do any CG work or anything there.
05:34 The only CG that's in this whole thing, is the actual water and that's using the
05:39 plug in from Red Giant, the Tsunami Plugin.
05:43 So, if we look at that plug in here, I'm not going to make any changes to this
05:47 because any little changes are going to change it drastically, and take awhile to render.
05:53 But you can take a look at this, and you can look at some of the tutorials from
05:57 Red Giant's site, on how to deal with the water.
06:02 But the light, the waves, are handled by height, and by the grid of it.
06:09 The details, the scale, the amount of flow that's going on, that's handled by
06:15 wind speed. So, in the final, it's just looks like
06:20 the water's running down this canal or this channel.
06:23 And you can see the actual mask that I used for that.
06:30 That's a Track matte there. And that controls where the water is visible.
06:36 Now another thing, if I turn this off, you can see that I have a little bit of
06:40 transparency on this layer. And I just applied it to a solid color
06:45 layer, and I left a little bit of transparency in there so you could see
06:48 some of the texture underneath. You know it's just a canal full of you
06:54 know weeds and junk and it's just a little trickle of water at this time.
06:58 But if I want to show it with this raging water going through here, I turn on my
07:02 plug in. And you can see here there is a little
07:05 bit of transparency to show some depth, that it's not really deep.
07:09 It's not a really deep canal. It's fairly shallow, but it, it has some
07:13 water moving in there. And that kind of completes this scene.
07:19 So if we'll look at the final rendering here, we'll see that the water is moving.
07:23 It looks like it's moving in a direction here.
07:26 The sun light's coming from a specific angle, and that's actually programmed
07:31 into the plugin. That allows you to pick the angle of the
07:35 light and everything. The amount water movement here.
07:38 I've got a little semi-transparency there, so you see a little bit of the
07:41 texture underneath. So it has more of a believable look.
07:45 Now we can see these trees are moving over here off to the right.
07:49 So we've got tree movement throughout the whole scene.
07:53 It doesn't look too static. We've got a little bit of cloud movement.
07:57 The clouds aren't sped up they're natural speed.
07:59 So it doesn't look too corny or too cheesy with that, you know, rapid cloud movement.
08:04 You see a little hint of the city back here, just peeking up over the, edge of
08:09 the hills there. This all ties it in with perspective,
08:13 with motion, and believability, with all of the little details that we put in
08:17 there in trying to keep everything in motion here.
08:22 So, when you are creating your mattes, when you're creating a complex composite
08:26 like this where you have a lot of elements.
08:28 Don't forget to make sure you're adding motion back in where you're painting
08:32 things over. If you have everything that's too static
08:36 it just won't have that sense of believability.
08:40
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5. Lighting Techniques in Post
Simulating lighting to change a scene in post
00:04 On this project I want to show how easy it is to totally change, the feeling, the emotion.
00:11 And the setting of a scene just by making some variations in our levels and
00:16 replacing our background. Now in this case we start with a project
00:21 that we did in chapter three for the match moving.
00:24 And it's the Christmas window project. And in this case we had warmed up all of
00:29 the foreground lighting, the frame around the window.
00:33 And everything to kind of match this warm homey feeling here.
00:37 But what we're going to do is actually change it.
00:40 To a different part of the world. And we're in a big city now.
00:44 So we're looking out the window of a high rise building.
00:48 And the lighting coming back in is much cooler.
00:51 It's a winter scene, so, it's going to have this reflective light.
00:55 It's going to be very blue, which is going to make everything look kind of
00:58 blue and kind of pinkish. Instead of this nice warm glow.
01:02 So in this case, we change not only the background.
01:04 But we also change some of the lighting. And there are a few different steps we
01:08 need to take to do this. So we can open up that Chapter 3 project.
01:15 The Christmas Windows Track project. And I have already created one comp
01:19 that's already done for you. It's the Christmas Window Lighting city.
01:24 And that's already done. We'll refer to that to kind of speed
01:27 things up here. But we're going to start with the one
01:31 that was completed from that chapter. And that's the Christmas Window Home completed.
01:36 And this has everything and it has all our levels for this.
01:40 Masks are all created for the snow and everything.
01:44 So we're going to modify this one. And create an entirely different scene.
01:49 So the first thing that I'm going to do is get a new background in.
01:52 And this I stock photo image, here, is going to be our background that we'll use.
01:57 And it's this city scene. And I just hide the original one, which
02:01 was with the snowman in the yard. And we can see while the colors are way
02:06 off here and everything. We're going to have to do a few things to
02:09 make this work. Well, first thing I wannna do is so I
02:12 don't have to go through all the steps of retracking anything.
02:16 Is, I'm going to just copy all of my key frames from the original.
02:20 So, I just select and drag over here. And hit Cmd+C or Ctrl+C on the PC.
02:28 And then I close that up, twirl this down here.
02:32 Come down to Transform, make sure that I'm at frame 0 and I just paste.
02:38 And it will automatically change all my anchor point position.
02:41 And scale and have all that tracking information, in there right on that layer.
02:46 So, I'm set to go there. So, let's close this back up.
02:51 We don't have to do anything more to that layer, 'cuz we're going to keep that cool
02:54 color in there. That's actually going to be what we use
02:58 to transform our foreground so that it matches a little better.
03:02 Another thing I'm going to do is, I'm going to, get rid of this Mask layer here.
03:08 Because we no longer have artificial light that's lighting up the snow.
03:14 So we don't need that. Actually, I can just hit Delete.
03:19 And that way our snow is on it's own layer here.
03:22 And will come back up here to Track matte to No Track matte.
03:27 And that's set. I'll need to change my color on that
03:30 snow, so I'm going to click on Hue saturation here, and just delete that.
03:36 Because I want it to be a little wider. I want it to be a little cooler in color temperature.
03:41 So now I've got my background and, I've got my snow has already set there.
03:46 But one thing I want to do, is actually add more snow.
03:50 Because we're looking at a wider range here and deeper.
03:54 So I'm going to go at about 4000 here and I may change the speed up a bit, go to like 0.75.
03:59 And that will give us more snow and a little higher drop rate.
04:04 And that way it will look a little more believable, be it a little more dense as
04:08 we're looking out the window. 'Cuz we're not just looking in a short
04:13 little shallow area in a yard. We're actually looking out a window of a
04:18 skyscraper here. So, that sets up our background.
04:22 We're all set there. Now, what we have to do is bring our
04:24 foreground, into play here. So, we're going to be changing our colors
04:28 here quite a bit. So, I'm going to my levels on this layer
04:32 and I'm just going to click Reset. Which takes a second to reset, there we go.
04:38 And I'm going to start at this point and actually bring everything down just a bit.
04:45 Because it's going to be a little darker in here.
04:48 And then I want to cool it off, so I'm going to come down here to my blues.
04:52 And I'm going to to make everything go a little bit more toward blue.
04:56 So we're actually getting a little bit of this pink, in here.
05:01 And then, I'm going to actually, bring the reds down just a little bit.
05:10 But don't want it to go too red. There we go again, make it a little less
05:14 saturated that way. There we go.
05:17 And may bring the whites down just a bit so they're not quite so intense.
05:25 So I'm going to bring my output light down just a little.
05:34 So this is kind of a subjective theme, you can play with a bit.
05:39 The blues, I think I might back off just a little bit, I went a little too far
05:43 with the blues. But you can play around with that, you
05:47 can go back and forth. And look and see the one that we already
05:51 did, to the one that you're working on. I'm still having a problem here with this
05:56 being to light over here. I wannna darken that up, bring more of
06:00 the focus around the tree here. And the way that I did that was to just
06:04 duplicate this layer. Just Cmd+D, on the keyboard, or Ctrl+D on
06:09 the PC. And I've, don't really need to mess with
06:13 this right now. I'm going to create a new mask here.
06:17 So let me bring this down to a little smaller where I can see what I'm working on.
06:24 I'm going to create just a really crude mask here.
06:26 Around this part of the image area, let's close it up.
06:37 Then I'll come over here and Mask shape, and Feather.
06:41 Feather's what I want here. Then we'll come up to Mask feather.
06:47 And I'm going to go about 250 pixels. Because I want a nice big soft feathered
06:53 area here. And then I'll just drag this over a bit.
07:00 And notice I started on frame 0. Very important that I start there,
07:03 because I'm going to have to move this a bit as I go down in time.
07:07 And we can hide the layer underneath. So we can see about how much we're affecting.
07:14 And I'm going to come in here to my levels on this layer and I'm going to
07:18 make it a bit darker. So, let's go to our RGB Channels and then
07:24 we'll make that go considerably darker. So that our focus really is on this tree
07:31 and the light that's coming from here. So, go too dark but that's, that's better.
07:39 Now what's going to happen is as the camera passes by.
07:43 It's actually going to change where the focus is so this has to track, that.
07:49 And we're just going to do just a real simple Mask match move with it.
07:54 So let's go back to frame 0, open up my mask.
07:58 And click on the Stopwatch for Mask path, which sets it there.
08:03 Then I'll come out here a little ways, right around three seconds, and then move
08:09 this guy over just a little bit. And I may start to bring these down.
08:17 Because we're going to get closer here. So I come back out to my last frame.
08:21 And wait for it to redraw. There we go.
08:26 That's all set. So let's grab all of them and we'll move
08:30 them up, and over. And then bring these two down.
08:36 So, what we're basically doing is trying to just mask out what area is going to be dark.
08:41 And what area is going to stay light. So now we can see that back.
08:46 Let's look at the one that's already finished here for a comparison.
08:50 I went a little darker with that one. But you can see here that the mask has
08:54 moved slightly over time. To kind of follow that main direction
09:00 where the light's coming from. Looks something like this.
09:06 And now we've got an entirely different scene built from something that we
09:10 already based it on. And this is important to know how to do this.
09:14 And do it pretty quickly because you're going to get clients that say, you know,
09:17 I really like that, but we need to change it up.
09:20 We need to change it this year, and you're using something you created last year.
09:24 And they want to change, you know, a setting or something, or they want to see
09:27 variations of something. We want to see what this would look like
09:30 for this, this, this, and this. And that way your not having to re-invent
09:33 the wheel all the time. But you are able to basically do the job
09:37 once and then, make modifications to that time and time again.
09:42 That just gives you a lot more control and a lot more variations that you can present.
09:48 Or just to be creative for your own purposes.
09:51 That's just another way to be creative, using the same project.
09:57 And just applying some assimilated lighting changes to it.
10:02
Collapse this transcript
Using layer styles to create shadows and light
00:02 Now one thing that I keep driving home, that to make your composite very
00:05 believable, is you have to make sure that the lighting matches your background.
00:10 In a lot of cases, you can shoot something really well, you get your
00:13 composite together. And you're still lacking just that little
00:16 bit of an edge, that really brings your foreground and background together.
00:21 And a lot times that's a light direction, or maybe a subtle, subtle Drop Shadow
00:25 behind them onto the background. Well, those are two things I'm going to
00:29 explore here in this movie. The first is, adding just a little bit
00:34 more of a light edge here on her face and her forearm.
00:39 And we're going to achieve that with a very simple tool, which is the Layer
00:43 Style Effects. And I've got that layer selected here in
00:47 my timeline. I'm coming up to my Layer and then Layer
00:51 Styles and you would probably think, well, an Inner Glow would work wouldn't it?
00:57 Well, no the problem with an Inner Glow is it takes all of the edges and brings a
01:00 glow around the whole edge and I want something that's very directional.
01:04 So, I'm going to create my own light glow, from the Inner Shadow selection.
01:10 Of course that starts with a black shadow.
01:13 And so, I want to come down here to my Layer Styles Settings, in the timeline.
01:18 Click Open Inner Shadow, and I'm going to change this from Multiply, to Screen And
01:24 then change this to white. For now.
01:28 We'll come back and tweak it a little bit.
01:31 And I'm going to leave the opacity where it is for now.
01:33 Just so I can see where I'm positioning everything.
01:35 So, the first thing I want to do is change the direction of the light source.
01:41 And I just click and drag this until it gets into position.
01:44 Want it to come right about two o'clock or so, and now I see this white glow is
01:48 on the side that I want to work with. I'm going to increase the distance just a
01:55 little bit. And then bring this down, increase the
01:58 size so it's just a little softer. Now, it's giving me this really harsh you
02:03 know white glow. We're not going to leave it there of course.
02:07 But the next thing I want to do is to come down to Opacity, and I'm going to bring that
02:12 way down. So, that just getting a slight, slight
02:17 glow here. Start at zero and just start to bring it up.
02:21 Now I'm seeing that glow here. And now I've got pretty much where I want it.
02:25 I just want to bring it out of being a really harsh white.
02:28 And warm it up just a bit so, I'll bring my colors up here.
02:34 Bring it just, so that it's a little warmer light.
02:37 Now, I can play with my opacity just a little bit more, and then do a quick RAM
02:42 preview, and see how that works. 'Kay, our RAM preview's running now.
02:49 And we can see it just softens up a little bit of this edge, just a little more.
02:53 It kind of enhances the light that was already on that side of her face and her body.
02:59 And just gives us just a little bit of a softness and a little warmth.
03:03 It really helps to combine the foreground and background just that much more.
03:12 That's one thing that I'll use the Layer Styles for.
03:14 Another thing I'll use it for is a Drop Shadow.
03:18 Now in this case, I've got this guy jumping, kind of over the curb here in
03:22 front of this bush, and he's all excited and he's running around.
03:28 I've used this in some of the other tutorials this clip, but one thing that
03:32 will really help sell it a bit, especially when he's jumping in.
03:37 And to establish the distance that he is from that bush and to bring him back into
03:41 that background, is to add a little bit of a Drop Shadow.
03:45 Well, I'm going to come up here to my Layer Styles and into Layer > Layer Styles.
03:52 And I'll use a Drop Shadow. And I'm going to exaggerate it, of course
03:56 to really define where I'm going to be with it.
03:59 And I'll start with the distance. And I'll bring that way down here.
04:07 I'll move my angle, so that he is, right about there.
04:12 And we're going to go very subtle with this in the end.
04:15 So, it's not going to be a real harsh Drop Shadow.
04:18 And let me see, I may need a little more distance here, bring it back down.
04:23 And then I kind of want to gauge where it is, when he's coming in.
04:28 He's standing there. And then that's there.
04:30 That's pretty good, that's pretty much where I want it to be.
04:34 Now I'm going to come in here and bring my opacity way down, so that it's very,
04:38 very subtle. It's not a very bright day out, it's not
04:42 that drastic of a Drop Shadow, but it's just enough, to give the illusion, that
04:46 he's really in front of it there. Okay, so, you can see it's very subtle
04:52 Drop Shadow, but it's just enough to kind of sell that composite.
04:57 Whether it's a flat background, or a, very subtle three dimensional background,
05:01 you can use this effect, you can mask it, if you have several different layers.
05:08 That you need to effected on, there's so many things you can do just by using this
05:11 simple Layer Style. I use this all the time even in some of
05:15 the feature films I work on, I'll just cheat and use a little bit of this, fake
05:18 Drop Shadow. And its amazing how much it really brings
05:22 your character and your background together.
05:25 So, using the Lighting Styles and the Drop Shadow.
05:30 Those tools just in your Layers Styles, are enough to really help you, sell your composites.
05:39
Collapse this transcript
Plugin fx for light wrapping and vignetting
00:02 Now a lot of times when you have a composite, your foreground character
00:05 still looks like they're kind of a cardboard cutout in front of a fake background.
00:10 Well, if that's the case and you really want that type of an effect and that's fine.
00:14 But if you've got an extremely bright background source there's some bright
00:18 sunlight, you know, reflecting off from something.
00:22 Or the sky's really bright and your green screen character, is actually just shot
00:26 in a studio as this guy was. Then we, need to do a little more to
00:31 marry those two layers together. And this is when I like to, rely on one
00:37 of my favorite plug-ins, and that's the Boris Continuum Complete's, light wrap.
00:43 And the way the BCC light wrap works, let me show you here.
00:48 We'll go to BCC 8 key and blend, go down to light wrap.
00:54 First then I do is turn off these handles.
00:57 I don't like those controls. I like to use my numbers here.
00:59 Now, there's no difference here until I actually select a background source.
01:04 And what makes this unique is all I'll use my background source layer here.
01:09 And you see that there's a glow around here but you can't really tell what it is
01:12 until you can turn off the actual image itself and look at it against black.
01:18 Well, now we can see, oh, I see the, the coloring is coming from the actual
01:22 background image. And that is going to give me a more
01:26 believable armbient glow around my character.
01:29 And that is kind of the light fall off that a camera lense would actually see if
01:33 you were shooting this as an actual composite on location.
01:37 There's going to be a little bit of light bending around the edges and that's why
01:41 the light wrap is really an important tool.
01:45 Well, this is pretty strong, and there's a couple things I would do here.
01:47 First is I'd pull my width down because it, I don't need that much of a light
01:51 wrap around there. So I'm going to bring that down a bit.
01:55 And then I may soften it just a little more.
02:00 And then I'll look at it on my actual normal face here.
02:03 And then the mix with original, if I crank all the way up, well, that lessens
02:07 the effect, you can see as I go up and down here.
02:10 So, I start with no effect at all, and then I slowly start to roll it off til I
02:15 get the desired amount that I want. And then I can just click on and off the
02:20 effect to see my before and after. And that's just enough to soften up these
02:25 edges a bit. Make them a little more believable.
02:28 And it's really effective if you have somebody with a lot of dark hair or
02:32 clothing, and you didn't get the green screen shot.
02:36 You had it lit with a lot of backlight. He was lit with a kind of a hair light
02:40 here, rim light. Which is kind of orange, which might not
02:43 be the best for this type of a composite if we wanted it to be believable.
02:48 But I'm going to do a quick round preview here and we can take a look back here and
02:52 see that really does help soften out a bit.
02:56 It still looks like a simulated background because it's a camera moving.
03:00 It's going in and out of focus. But it still doesn't look quite as harsh
03:03 as it does without the light rap. Another cool lighting effect I'd like to
03:08 do is on the background itself. And that is, if I select the background here.
03:15 We've already got our camera lens blur cuz it's just a still image that's moving.
03:20 But sometimes, if you want to kind of take your attention away from the background.
03:25 Bring it more toward the character in here, going to bring this back down to a
03:30 zoom to fit up to 100% so we can see the full edges here.
03:36 I like to use the built-in lighting effect, and that is found here in
03:41 Perspective of all places, it is the CC Spotlight.
03:47 Okay and that comes with After Effects and what I like to do with that is kind
03:52 of change it a bit. So right now let's see where's our from point.
03:58 I want it to kind of simulate where the sun is.
04:02 I want to move the two point here, so that's right in the middle and then I'm
04:06 going to change the cone angle to be a little broader.
04:12 Change the height up so it rounds it out a little more, and then the edge softness.
04:16 We're going to go way up, kind of reset, change the cone angle a bit more, and
04:21 then maybe even move this point over just a little bit.
04:27 So what this does is it gives me kind of a vignette here around the whole scene.
04:33 But it doesn't affect my character. It only affects the background itself,
04:38 the background lighting. So if I do a RAM preview on that, then
04:42 we'll get to see it. So you can see that this gives a, a
04:46 really cool vignette. Kind of a camera vignetting lens
04:50 vignetting, that really helps you focus on the character that's speaking.
04:55 And then as the background comes into focus we really can focus on the
04:59 presidents on the mountainside there. So those are a couple of my favorite
05:04 lighting effects. The one is from Boris, and you can go
05:07 online and look for Boris Continuum Complete.
05:11 Tthat's part of a package of like 100s of plug ins you get with their package.
05:17 It's pretty amazing. That's one of my favorites from them and
05:19 it's very useful, very practical and I use it all the time.
05:22 And then the cc spotlight, I'll use that on backgrounds and it really helps you
05:26 get that really cool focus on your character and your background
05:31
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