After Effects CS4 Beyond the Basics

After Effects CS4 Beyond the Basics

with Chad Perkins

 


In After Effects CS4 Beyond the Basics, Chad Perkins explores advanced techniques for working with motion graphic elements, animation, color correction, and more. Chad provides tips for working more efficiently, and then moves on to advanced effects, detailed masking techniques, and real-world expressions. Integrating Photoshop into the After Effects workflow is also highlighted. Exercise files accompany the course.
Topics include:
  • Working more efficiently in the timeline
  • Adjusting color and Camera Raw
  • Using multiple compositing techniques
  • Using time remapping for animation
  • Creating a 3D environment from a photo
  • Creating realistic effects with particles
  • Mastering the syntax and purpose of expressions
  • Understanding Mocha for AE

show more

author
Chad Perkins
subject
Video
software
After Effects CS4
level
Intermediate
duration
8h 49m
released
Jun 26, 2009

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1. Introduction
Welcome
00:00(Music playing.)
00:06Hello and welcome to After Effects CS4 Beyond the Basics. My name is Chad Perkins.
00:10I'm an Adobe Certified Instructor in After Effects and it's my pleasure
00:13to share a program with you that inspires creativity.
00:16In this title, we'll expand on what we covered in After Effects CS4 Essential
00:20Training. We're also taking on topics and tricks that haven't ever been covered
00:23before on lynda.com. For example, I'm going to show you how to create some
00:27common motion graphics elements like light swooshes and ink spatter.
00:31We're also going to dig deeper into the integration of Photoshop in the After
00:35Effects workflow. We'll even learn how to cut up an image and use After Effects
00:39to animate it and bring it to life. You'll see advanced ways to animate objects
00:44and how to use those concepts to create more realistic animations.
00:48We'll also look at more on expressions, more on playing with time, more on
00:52outputting to the right file format and compression method and a regular
00:56smorgasbord of tips and tricks that you can feast on.
00:59So let's get cooking with After Effects CS4 Beyond the Basics.
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Using the exercise files
00:00If you're a premium member of the lynda.com Online Training Library or if you
00:05purchased this training on a disc, then lucky you, because you have access to
00:10the exercise files that accompany this training. Here's how they're laid out.
00:14In each of the folders, here in the Exercise Files, you'll find the projects
00:20all used in that particular chapter. If you're looking for individual media
00:25items, in other words, everything except for projects, you need to go to the
00:28Media folder where media is categorized according to the type of media that it is.
00:34If you're a monthly or annual subscriber to lynda.com's Online Training
00:38Library, then you won't have access to the exercise files. But that's okay.
00:41You could just make your own or you could just follow along with the video.
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Detonation films and Greenlayers.com
00:00Now, last but not least, before we jump into the training, I just want to show
00:04you a little bit about the exercise files that we're going to be looking at.
00:08We have some amazing exercise files.
00:11First of all, one of the ones that I'm kind of especially proud of, we are
00:14going to be using a lot of photographs from photographer Angela McEnroe and we
00:18also are going to be using footage from a great company called Detonation Films.
00:23You can find their website at DetonationFilms.com and they offer really cheap
00:28and low-budget footage, sometimes even free, of real video footage of
00:34explosions and blood splatter and dust and all kinds of really cool real world
00:40phenomenon. We're going to be playing a lot with this when we look at blend
00:43modes and compositing later on in this training series.
00:48Another great company that we're going to be privileged to work with footage
00:51from is Greenlayers.com. Greenlayers sells stock video, but the difference is
00:57they already key out the background. So they sell you the video clips that
01:01have a transparent background. So they're really easy to composite into
01:05an existing scene, even a photograph.
01:07So as we open up Greenlayers.com, the folder here, we can see that we'll have
01:12dancers that come out and walk, and again this is just transparency behind him.
01:18So we can composite him on any type of background that we want.
01:22Another thing that I'm really excited about for this training series is that
01:24I've created this big project just for After Effects CS4 Beyond the Basics kind
01:30of like the end to a little TV show here and there is some music that goes with.
01:33This is currently not playing, but there is a lot of elements here.
01:36In this typical After Effects project, there is some Detonation Films footage
01:39in the background. There is some Cinema 4D robots, some Illustrator dragons,
01:45some shapes from Photoshop and also some elements, of course, from right here
01:50in After Effects. We've got some expressions and particles and all sorts of great stuff.
01:55So we'll be teasing you with that project a little bit as we go on to this
01:58training series, just a lot of great stuff. Let's go ahead and get to it.
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2. Efficiency-Increasing Tips and Tricks
Using this chapter
00:01In this training series, we're going to be doing some pretty intense stuff.
00:04So to start us off, we're going to look at this chapter on tips and tricks.
00:09This is going to be just a series of very quick little tips and tricks to help you
00:13be more efficient in After Effects and will also help you get more out of
00:17this training series. So let's jump in to get started.
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Two methods for selecting layers quickly
00:01In this movie, I'm going to show you two quick ways to select layers. In this
00:04project we have 18 layers. That's not too many layers but it's a lot to contend with.
00:09If you want to select layers, one way you can do that is by typing the number
00:12of the layer, which you'll find right here in the Timeline panel on this
00:16column, on the numeric keypad on the keyboard. So if I type 5, I'll select
00:21layer 5. If I type layer 9, I'll select layer 9 and so on. To select a double
00:26digit or a triple digit layer, let's say layer 15, I'm just going to type 15 quickly.
00:31Another way to select layers, if you don't know the number especially, is to
00:35use the Command key on the Mac or the Ctrl key on the PC and the Up or Down
00:39Arrow keys. So if I hold Command+Up Arrow, I select the lowering number but
00:46higher in the Timeline panel, Command+ Down Arrow will select the layer below that.
00:51And again, on a PC it would be Ctrl+Up Arrow and Ctrl+Down Arrow.
00:55So again, I can use a numeric keypad to type the number of the layer or I could
00:59use Command+Up Arrow/Down Arrow or Ctrl+ Up Arrow/Down Arrow to select layers as well.
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Finding a lost CTI
00:00Sometimes, when you're working with a really long composition or when you're
00:04zoomed in really closely into the Timeline panel, like we're seeing here, or
00:08zoomed in at the frame level, sometimes you lose your current time indicator.
00:11Now we know that we could just click somewhere here in the Time Ruler and have
00:15the current time indicator jump to where we are. But what if we're elsewhere in
00:20the composition and we know that the current time indicator is at a really
00:24crucial spot that we don't want to adjust.
00:26Now we can see in this little area over the Time Ruler that this is the area
00:31that we are zoomed into and our current time indicator is way over here.
00:35So what if we wanted to jump our view over to the current time indicator instead
00:39of having the current time indicator jump to where we are.
00:42All you have to do is make sure the Timeline panel is selected. Hit the letter
00:45D on the keyboard. As you could see, our view jumped to where the current time
00:50indicator is and the current time indicator is still in the exact same frame.
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Jumping to the in/out point of layers
00:00In this video, I'm going to show you how to quickly jump to the in point or out
00:04point of a layer. Now with my Timeline panel highlighted, as you can see here,
00:09I'm going to hit 1 on the numeric keypad to select the Fire layer, and that's
00:13what we want to jump to the in point of.
00:15Now just so you can see this project here, we have a dragon that breathes fire.
00:19The fire comes on and it goes away. If we want to jump to the in point, in
00:23other words, the beginning of this layer, we can just type I on the keyboard.
00:28Similarly, if we want to jump to the out point or the end of this clip, we type O.
00:33Oftentimes when editing animation, it's the introduction of the clip or the end
00:38of the clip that is the most crucial. So it's really beneficial to be able to
00:41jump right to the in point of the clip with I, or the out point of the clip with O.
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Making the work area match layer duration
00:00In this movie, we're going to be continuing on with the Dragon Fire project,
00:04and what we're going to be looking at here and also in the next few movies
00:06actually is the Work Area, this little gray bar up here at the top of the
00:11Timeline, which we can adjust to control what area is being previewed. Now Work
00:16Area bar is one of the most important parts of working effectively with After Effects.
00:20So here I'm going to show you a tip about how to make the Work Area bar match a
00:25layer's duration. In this case, again I'm going to be focusing on the Fire
00:28layer. So again, I'm going to type 1 on the numeric keypad to select that
00:32layer, and let's say all I care about right now is focusing on this fire and
00:37getting it to look better.
00:38What I can do is type the letter I to jump my current time indicator to the
00:43beginning or the in point of this layer, then type B to make the current frame
00:48to beginning of the Work Area. Then I type O to jump to the out point of the
00:54layer, and then I type the letter N as in Nancy to get the end of the Work Area
00:58bar to snap to my current time indicator.
01:02Now, I'm going to double-click this Work Area bar to reset it back to the
01:05entire duration of the composition. In case that seemed too quick for you, or
01:10too confusing, just type the word IBON. Yes, a made-up word that we use in
01:14After Effects circles, I-B-O-N, to make the Work Area bar match the duration of
01:19the layer. I-B-O-N, and you are done.
01:23The Work Area bar now perfectly matches the duration of the Fire layer.
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Making the work area the size of multiple layers
00:01In this movie, I'm going to show you how to make the Work Area the size of
00:03multiple layers. Basically, I have this wizard that shoots out these lightning
00:07bolts here, and these lightning bolts could be seen in these two small layers
00:12here, by small I mean short.
00:13If I want to focus on these two layers, both lightning bolts, what I could do
00:20to make the Work Area the size of bolt layers is to select both of them.
00:24I could do that using the Shift key or the Command or Ctrl key. So I'm going to
00:29select both lightning bolt 1 and lightning bolt 2.
00:31Then in order to make the Work Area bar the duration of both layers, in other
00:36words, starting with the first clip and ending with the last clip, what I'm
00:41going to do is use the keyboard shortcut. That's Command+Option+B on the Mac,
00:46or Ctrl+Alt+B as in Boy, on the PC.
00:51As you can see, that makes the Work Area bar the size or the duration of all selected layers.
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Jumping to the beginning or end of the work area
00:01In this movie, we're going to be continuing on where we left off in the last
00:03little tip. Now the Work Area bar has already been set for us, and what I want
00:07to talk about is how to jump to the beginning and end of the Work Area bar.
00:12For me, honestly, until I learned this shortcut, I didn't really use the Work
00:16Area bar very much because it was great to be able to preview a small area, but
00:20not being able to jump to the beginning of that area that you're focusing on,
00:24it didn't really help me too much.
00:26So here is the code. We know if we hit the Home key on the keyboard, we'll jump
00:29to the first frame of the comp, and the End key will jump us to the end of the comp.
00:33But if we hold the Shift key, Shift+Home will jump us to the beginning of
00:38the Work Area bar, and Shift+End will jump us to the end of the Work Area bar.
00:43Now, really that might be a little awkward because the Home and End keys aren't
00:47used too much in many other software programs. So again, that's Shift and the
00:51Home key at the same time to get to the beginning of the Work Area bar, Shift
00:55and the End key on your keyboard to get to the end of the Work Area bar.
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Trimming a comp to the work area
00:00Now what we're going to talk about here is how to make the composition
00:04the duration of the Work Area bar. Now at first this may not seem like a super
00:09great trick. We know we can go into the Composition Settings here and we can
00:13change the Duration.
00:15But if we were to shorten the composition to let's say 2 seconds, then we'd only
00:19take the first 2 seconds of the composition and shave off the remaining 3
00:23seconds. But we don't want just any 2 seconds. We want the exact duration of
00:29this Work Area bar. Let's say where the wizard is spitting out of the
00:33lightning and that's all we want from this composition.
00:36What I can do is right-click on the Work Area bar, after I've set it to the
00:40duration that I want it, I could select Trim Comp to Work Area. Now it looks a
00:46little bit different, because it expanded, because we zoomed in a little bit,
00:49but essentially we still just have these two lightning bolts and that's all
00:52that we're seeing in this composition now.
00:54By the way, you can also access that feature from the Composition menu, as you
00:59can see here, Trim Comp to Work Area.
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Visually adjusting the pixel size of a comp
00:00Now we're going to look at how to visually resize a composition's pixel
00:05dimensions. Not its duration, its actual area. Now what we have here is an old
00:10public domain clip. This from the Star Is Born, a classic wonderful movie from
00:141937. This is encased in a composition that is standard NTSC size.
00:20In other words, 720 X 480. If we look at the comp in the Project panel,
00:24it's significantly smaller, 336 X 256.
00:28Now let's say we're putting this composition on the web. I don't want all of
00:32this extra black space around my clip. I just want to crop it to this clip.
00:37A quick and easy way to do this is by clicking the Region of interest button down
00:41at the bottom of the Composition panel. Click that to select it, and then click
00:46and drag almost like a marquee around the footage.
00:49Now the purpose of the Region of interest is to make it so that when you render
00:53your footage or render your composition, it renders only a small piece of it.
00:57So let's say I had many layers around this other layer here and maybe there
01:01were sparks and a whole bunch of stuff going on around it. I only wanted to
01:06preview what's in here. Now that's going to speed up my render time a lot
01:09because now After Effects won't have to render this stuff on the outside of the
01:13region of interest.
01:14But an added benefit of the region is that once we have a region of interest
01:18and it's active, by the way you can deactivate it by clicking the Region of
01:21interest button again, once it's active, you can go to the Composition panel
01:25and select Crop Comp to Region of Interest. And now our composition is exactly
01:30the size that we chose.
01:31So essentially this trick is a way that we can visually resize the pixel
01:36dimensions of a composition. Now I do realize that we could have gone into our
01:40Composition Settings, and just made a composition that was 336 X 256. Likewise
01:46we could have just dragged the footage to the New Composition icon at the
01:48bottom of the Project panel.
01:50However if I undo this by hitting Command+Z on the Mac and Ctrl+Z on the PC,
01:55what if we had this clip over here on the left hand side, perhaps in the corner
01:59like this. Then cropping the composition to the Composition Settings would not work.
02:04Or let's say we made a large composition with a lot of layers and we only
02:07wanted a small piece of that to be exported somewhere. So again this trick is a
02:11really great tool to export a piece of a composition for export.
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Filling time gaps between footage
00:00In this movie we're going to look at a quick and precise way to fill up gaps
00:04between footage. If we look at this project, we'll skim it real quick, I have
00:08four little diamonds here, a green one, and a blue one, and then a teal one,
00:12and then a purple one.
00:13You'll notice that the first two are right next to each other. There is no gap
00:18between them. But after the blue one, there is a gap, and then the teal one and
00:23then another gap, and then the purple one. I don't want these gaps. So here's a
00:27quick way to fill up those gaps again quickly and precisely using only keyboard shortcuts.
00:33The first thing I want to do is go to the end or the outpoint of the last
00:37layer. That would be in this case the blue layer. So I'm going to hit the
00:41number 2 on the numeric keypad to select that layer. Then I'm going to hit the
00:45letter O to jump to its outpoint. Then I'm going to hit the Page Down key to
00:49advance one more frame beyond that.
00:51Next I'm going to select the teal layer. I can do that by hitting the number 3
00:55on the numeric keypad, or by pressing Command+Down arrow or Ctrl+Down arrow on
01:00the PC. Next to make the teal endpoint, I'm going to go to my Current Time
01:05Indicator. I'm going to hit the Left bracket key.
01:08Now I realize that that's a lot of steps, but we have one more to go. So we'll
01:12go through it again, a little bit more quickly this time. I'm going to hit O to
01:15jump to the outpoint of the teal layer. Then I'm going to advance it one more
01:20frame because we don't want both of these diamonds on at the same frame. Hit Page Down.
01:24Now I'm going to press Command or Ctrl+ Down arrow to select the purple layer.
01:28Then I'm going to press the Left bracket key. That's the key immediately to the
01:32right of the letter P on your keyboard to make the endpoint of the purple layer
01:37snap to where the current time indicator is.
01:41Now what I'm going to do, just for the sake of previewing, I'm going to press O
01:45to get the outpoint of the purple layer. Then I'm going to press the letter N
01:48as in Nancy to make this the end of the work area bar. Now we can preview all
01:53of the diamonds by hitting 0 on the numeric keypad or just by pressing the
01:57Spacebar and now there are no gaps between these diamonds.
02:02So again, we used the keyboard shortcut to jump to the end of the first layer,
02:07or in other words, the layer at the beginning of the gap. We advance one more
02:10frame beyond that. Then we press the Left bracket key to make the endpoint of
02:15the layer at the end of the gap snapped to the frame immediately after the
02:20layer before the gap.
02:21Now once you practice with those keyboard shortcut steps a few times, you'll
02:24get the hang of it and you'll find that it's not only easier and quicker
02:28because there are keyboard shortcuts, but also it's just a more accurate way,
02:32more precise way to fill up gaps between footage as well.
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Isolating layers
00:00Next we're going to look at how to isolate layers. Now in this project here I
00:04got a lot going on. I'm at frame 4 seconds and 5 frames in here. We got this
00:09video clip and we have a lower third with a texture on it, some text, some graphics.
00:14Let's say I wanted to isolate this lower third. What I can do is come down here
00:19to the Timeline panel. I'm looking at this lower third background. Thankfully
00:24I've named it well. This little circle right here, there is little column,
00:27that's the solo column. That's what I want to do to this layer so I can see
00:30just that layer and nothing else.
00:32So I click this Solo button and now we can see the lower third. If I scrub the
00:36Timeline, I'm not seeing any of the other layers in this project. Now
00:40unfortunately I'm also not seeing the texture. If I unsolo this, I can see
00:44there is a texture here. I'm not seeing that.
00:46So what I'm going to do is solo the texture layer as well. So you could
00:50actually solo as many layers at a time as you want contrary to what the name
00:55solo might suggest. Now if I preview this, again we see the layer and the
01:00texture I'm previewing here, and actually I'm getting some audio there. So I'll
01:04just do a regular Spacebar preview and there we have it.
01:09Now note that you can't solo layers that aren't already visible. So if I were
01:14to unsolo the texture layer and actually I take off its visibility, the option
01:18to solo the layer, it goes away. So in order to solo the texture layer as well,
01:23I have to turn on the visibility, then solo. Now of course you'll see all
01:27layers again. Just click the solo layers to unsolo them and then you'll be able
01:30to see all layers. Soloing layers is a great way to isolate pieces of a
01:36composition and really just get in there and perfect them.
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Cleaning up the Timeline panel
00:00In the last movie we talked about how to clean up the Composition panel.
00:04In other words what we're looking at by using After Effects' solo feature. In this
00:08tutorial I'm going to show you how to clean up the Timeline using the Shy feature.
00:13So first if all you need to make sure that you're not looking at the modes area
00:17or that you do have the switches area showing. We are going to be talking all
00:21about these different modes a little bit later on in this training series.
00:25For now I'll go ahead and click the Toggle Switches/Modes button until you see
00:29these areas of switches.
00:30Now what we want to do is make some of these layers go away in the Timeline
00:35panel. It's very cluttered here with all these different layers. We don't need
00:38to see them right now. I just want to work on the texture layer and the lower
00:41third background layer.
00:42So these other layers, I can just click this little Shy icon. It's like a
00:45little guy peaking over a wall and so we want to make him bashful by poke him
00:49in the face and getting him out of the way. So he's hiding behind the wall.
00:53That's what we want. That's what makes these layers shy. So I'm going to make
00:57every layer shy except for the lower third background layer and the texture layer.
01:01Now nothing has changed. In order to activate the shyness as it were, you need
01:06to go to the top of the Timeline panel and click the little guy here, the
01:09little shy guy. That makes all the shy layers disappear from the Timeline
01:13panel. Now notice that this is kind of like the opposite of soloing layers.
01:17When we hit layers by soloing other layers, the layers that were not soloed
01:22were still in the Timeline panel but were hidden from view in the Composition panel.
01:27Again Shy is the exact opposite. The layers are still visible in the
01:32Composition panel but are hidden from view in the Timeline panel. It's
01:36basically a way just to clean things up as you're working. If you're still
01:40somewhat new to After Effects, this might not seem like a great feature but
01:44trust me this is a gem for the ages folks. This is a really really great trick.
01:50Once you start having projects with dozens or hundreds of layers, the Shy
01:54feature becomes invaluable.
01:56Now to get your layers back, just click the Shy icon, the master switch here at
02:00the top of the Timeline panel to see all of those layers again. Now you could
02:04also make layers Shy on the fly as well. So let's say these two flower
02:09ornaments layers are not shy. Let me Shy all the other layers. We can click
02:13their Shy switches. As long as this Shy is active, then they will instantly
02:18disappear. If we want to, we could just click and drag their solo column to solo them as well.
02:24Now well it's totally possible to become an After Effects master without using
02:28the Solo feature or the Shy feature. These two features nevertheless really
02:32help you to organize your workflow as you're working in After Effects.
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3. Color Correction
Creating a reference monitor
00:00Before we go to the next few chapters, we're going to be looking a lot at
00:03changing the color of objects. I want to show you how to create something
00:06called a reference monitor, which will be very useful in this process.
00:10A reference monitor allows you to look at the original as a reference while
00:15you're changing the color.
00:16Now let's say for example in this big project, which we'll be looking at
00:19throughout this training series, I have these robots here and I've applied kind
00:23of a green tint to them so that t would blend in a little bit with
00:26the green explosion, the background. But I might want that to be a little bit
00:30more saturated or a little bit less saturated.
00:33However, with this composition selected in the Timeline panel, I'm going to tap
00:36the Shift key and hit the Right arrow key to go to Big Comp. I know that these
00:41robots are in the Precomp left stuff composition. So I'm going to use my arrow
00:45keys again to navigate to Precomp left stuff so that's highlighted and then hit
00:49the Return key or Enter key.
00:51Now in this Precomp left stuff composition, which then opens, I have this eddie
00:56technology layer. eddie technology being the name of the robot. What I can do
01:01is now go up to the Effect Controls panel. So let's go ahead and click the
01:05little arrow next to the name of all these effects and close them up and to
01:09make this panel a little bit cleaner.
01:10The next thing is go back to Tritone. That's the effect that we're interested
01:12in here. This Blend With Original determines the amount of green tint.
01:18It's actually set up backwards. So if we increase the Blend With Original,
01:21it's going to become more chrome, the original color of these robots.
01:26If we take this to the left, they're going to become tinted more green.
01:30The problem is that I'm not really sure what this is going to look like with
01:34the green fire. So a reference monitor will allow us to see what these robots
01:39will look like in the final composition. Here's how we do this. I'll select the
01:43Timeline panel, tap the Shift key and tap the left arrow two times to go to the
01:49Master Comp composition. Then what I'm going to do is go up here to the
01:54Composition panel and click the Lock icon. That will lock this view. So no
01:58matter what else I do, down here in the Timeline panel, this view will stay the same.
02:03So now I'll go back to the Timeline panel and select it, tap the Shift key once
02:07again, tap the right arrow twice, go to the Precomp left stuff composition kind
02:12of a tongue twister there, and go ahead and hit the Enter key to open up that
02:16Comp as before. Now again our view has not changed that is here in the
02:19Composition panel, of course the Timeline panel has changed as if we are
02:22looking at a different composition.
02:23So now if I go to the Tritone effect and I adjust Blend With Original and see
02:29what these robots look like with a little bit more green in them. Or I can take
02:33this maybe up a little bit higher, just type in 85%. In doing that, there is
02:38now much less green, or much less of the Tritone effect. The natural gray tone
02:43kind of compliments the background a little bit.
02:44Now whatever we decide to do with the robots, that's not an interesting choice,
02:48but the point is that it's really beneficial be able to see what the final
02:51product looks like while you're working on these separate pieces.
02:54Now there is another way that we can create some whatever reference monitor,
02:57just see it before and after. In order to do this, I'm going to go to the File
03:01menu and click Revert. Revert will take this After Effects project to the last
03:05saved version. Everything that I've changed will be erased which is exactly what I want.
03:10So I'm going to zoom in a little bit more here using the middle mouse wheel,
03:13alternatively you could use this zoom dropdown over here on the left bar in the
03:17Composition panel. Also I'm going to take this Quality dropdown to Auto. Now as
03:21we're looking at these robots, I want to fine tune them, but I want to see a
03:26quick before and after of what they look like, tinted more with green, and
03:30tinted less with green.
03:31So what I'm going to do is go back into that composition. I'm going to do that
03:34by selecting the Timeline panel, tapping the Shift key, hitting the Right arrow
03:38key on the keyboard twice and going to Precomp left stuff again and go ahead
03:43and click in there.
03:44Now what I'm going to do is down at the bottom of the Composition panel, I'm
03:47going to click this Snapshot button. So it takes snapshots. It's like a little
03:50camera. Go ahead and click it. Makes a cool camera noise. I'm going to select
03:55the eddie technology layer again. Go back to the Effect Controls panel. Again
04:00in the Tritone effect, which you can clean up this Effect Controls panel if you want.
04:03There is a lot going on here.
04:04Let's take the Blend With Original value down to 40%. Now if you were paying
04:09attention, that might not be too drastic of a change, but if we use our
04:12snapshot, which we can do by coming here to the bottom of the Composition panel
04:16and clicking this little Figure button which is Show last Snapshot, we click
04:20that, we hold it and it shows us the before. So here's it after the change and
04:24before the change. So this way we could see that actually was a pretty drastic
04:28change. Before and after.
04:31When you're color correcting, especially when you're new to color correcting,
04:35you have a tendency to overdo things a little bit. It's just human nature.
04:38So these reference monitors kind of keep you in check and make sure that you have
04:42a reference to make sure that you don't go too crazy with your color adjustments.
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Performing instant color correction
00:00Before we get into the nitty-gritty of color correction, I want to show you a
00:04few effects you can use to very quickly color correct footage.
00:07Now, I'm going to go over here to the Effects & Presets panel and I'm going to
00:10open up the Color Correction category. By the way, I have a few third-party
00:14effects that I have installed but you won't have those. Those are the ones that
00:17I have purchased on the site but we are not going to be using them in this
00:20training series, or talking about them at all, so don't worry about that.
00:22So, we are going to open up Color Correction. You will see that the top three here.
00:26The first ones, because they start with letter A and they are organized
00:29alphabetically here, are Auto Effects. So if we apply Auto Color, we are going
00:35to basically color correct the White Balance. What the Auto Color effect does,
00:39it looks at the white in your footage and it will automatically balance the
00:46colors so that the white is actually white.
00:49So, if we go to the Effects icon next to Auto Color and see the before and
00:53after, the footage kind of looked okay before, but this was actually tinted a
00:58little blue and so the Auto Color effect recognized that and basically balanced
01:03everything out in the entire image to be fixed, get rid of what they call the
01:07Color Cast. So now the white is a more accurate white and the rest of the
01:12colors, we assume, are more accurate as well.
01:14Now as with many effects, you can fade the effect essentially by increasing
01:18Blend With Original. As we bump up this value, then we blend this effect in
01:24with the original, basically softening the intensity of the effect. Take this
01:29back to zero for right now, so we get the full effect.
01:31Now if you are playing this over video and you find that the colors are little
01:35wild in the video, maybe as you are strolling through the Camera view, there is
01:39a light that pops-up or something, then you can increase Temporal Smoothing.
01:43That will balance out the Color Correction over several frames.
01:48But if all what it's going to do is look at every single frame or video
01:51individually and color correct them individually, but if you are playing 30
01:54frames a second. That could cause some jumpiness in the colors. So increasing
01:59Temporal Smoothing will smooth that out.
02:01Now I'm going to select Auto Color in the Effects Controls panel and delete it.
02:05A couple of other Auto Effects here, there is Auto Contrast which basically
02:09deals with the luminance, just the brightness values, just only change the
02:13color, just working with the brightness but again we have the same Temporal
02:16Smoothing and Blend with the original parameters as we did with the Auto Color.
02:19I'm going to select that and delete it.
02:20Auto Levels is probably the best of the three, but it works on each color
02:27channel individually: Red, Green and Blue. Because of that, it is possible to
02:32have a shift in colors. From my experience, there really isn't too much
02:36difference between Auto Color and Auto Levels usually, although my experience
02:40has been that Auto Levels delivers a little bit better results from time to time.
02:45Now one other effect I want to show you, I'm going to do a search for here in
02:48the Effects & Presets panel Search window is Equalize. Just type equ in and
02:54Equalize will pop-up. I'm just going to drag-and-drop this on to my footage.
02:57Now at first it is a little intense sometimes but what I'm going to do is take
03:00down Amount to Equalize to about 50%.
03:03Now although this really doesn't do too much, as far as, Color Correction, it
03:09still looks pretty cool. It has a cool kind of contrasty feel to the footage
03:14and it does this without you having to know too much about how to get this effect manually.
03:19Now if you go over to the Effect Controls panel under the Equalize drop-down,
03:23we have a few methods that it uses to equalize. Now, Photoshop Style and RGB
03:28are about the same usually from my experience. But Brightness is a little
03:32different. Brightness just tends to take and equalize the brightness of the
03:37footage. In our case here, we have a gray desaturated result.
03:40Now to show what Equalize is really doing, I'm going to get a little bit more
03:45advanced. So if you are into just a quick Color Correction, then go ahead and
03:48stop the movie now and if you want to get a little bit more hard-core, then I'm
03:51going to show you what this is doing. I want to click the Reset button so we
03:54get the full effect of the Equalize effect here and I'm going to apply the Levels effect.
04:01Now, in a couple of movies down the road, I'm going to be explaining to you
04:04what this Histogram thing is all about right here, this little chart, as we
04:07talk about Levels. But for now just realize that this is a read out of the
04:12brightness values of our image.
04:14I am going to take the Levels effect. I'm going to drag it above the Equalize
04:18effect. That means that it's going to process before the Equalize effect.
04:22So this little curve right here, shows us the brightness values for this footage
04:27before the Equalize effect is applied. So in other words, it's giving us a read out of this image.
04:31Now looking at this histogram, it's basically a chart. The right side over here
04:36is basically telling us how much that we have in the way of highlights. The
04:40fact that it's flat indicates that there is not many bright tones here. The
04:45left side indicates the shadows. The middle represents the mid tones.
04:49So this footage is showing a lot of dark mid tones, not too much in the way of
04:54shadows, not a lot in the way of highlights or bright mid tones but a lot of dark mid tones.
04:59Now if I drag this Levels effects, after the Equalize effect and turn it back
05:03on here, we can see that this histogram is spread out now. So in effect, the
05:09brightness values have been equalized. They have been spread out throughout the
05:14entire spectrum so there is more shadows, there is more highlights, there is
05:18more bright mid tones and there is about the same amount of dark mid tones with
05:22some more smooth arc here, rather than just one single spike. And because of
05:26that smoothing out, because of that equalization, a lot of times we have a
05:29really cool final result.
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Adjusting hue and saturation
00:00In this movie we are going to look at adjusting Hue and Saturation. Hue is the
00:05value of the color. In other words, is it a blue, is it a green, is it an
00:09orange, what color family is it in? And we are also going to look at adjusting
00:13Saturation, which is the intensity of the color.
00:16Now I have here a photo and I'm going to apply the Hue/Saturation effect,
00:20which is in the Color Correction category of effects. This effect allows us to adjust
00:25Hue/Saturation and Lightness. Now there are a lot of facets to the effect.
00:29Let's just start out with Hue.
00:31Again, Hue is the basic color family. If we drag this, increasing the Hue
00:37value. It's basically spinning all the colors on the color wheel. In this case,
00:41dragging to the right, kind of warms the photo up a little bit. So let's click
00:45the Effects icon here next to Hue/ Saturation, we can see the before and the after.
00:50Definitely more warm, redder tones and as we go a negative value, we start
00:56moving towards green a little bit more. So we make it even colder. Now, if we
01:01go too far, we start getting some crazy colors here. So that's a little bit
01:05wacky unless that's what you are going for.
01:07Now, I'm going to leave this at about + 20 or so. Let's go ahead and just type
01:10in 20 there and let's go down to Saturation here. Again, Saturation is the
01:14intensity of color. So as we click-and- drag this value to the right increasing
01:19the Saturation, we see these colors become even more vibrant and intense. As we
01:25take this value to a negative number, these colors become less saturated, less intense.
01:29Now finally, as we get to a value of about negative 50 or so, we are not
01:34totally in black and white territory just yet, but the colors are so faded that
01:37it has like this really cool antique look. This is a great look for doing
01:41flashback shots or other shots that might be in a character's memory. If we
01:46take this all the way to negative 100 then we have a complete black and white shot.
01:50Now, you don't want to adjust Lightness, actually let me take this Saturation
01:54back to zero, you don't want to adjust the Master Lightness value when you are
01:59working on video or a photo. The reason why is because as you increase this, it
02:05is universally brightening every single pixel. If we take it to a negative
02:09value, it's universally darkening every pixel. That's usually a very bad thing.
02:15Now, it is okay to do if you are working with flat graphics like Illustrator
02:19files. Let me show you really quickly here, I have a star with a Stroke, just
02:22the plain old shape layer, red with white. In this case, we can adjust
02:27Lightness because it's not a continuous tone image. In other words, there is
02:31not subtle gradations of color, just flat color. So in this case, if we reduce
02:35the lightness, then we just have a dark gray stroke around a dark red star and that's fine.
02:40But again, for photos and videos, you typically don't want to fiddle with the
02:43Lightness. Now getting back to Hue/ Saturation here, going back to the Angela
02:46layer, if we turn On Colorize, we can actually just apply one single color to
02:53tint this image, but if all of it's kind of a reddish color, we can change the
02:57Hue by going down here to the bottom of the effect. Once you select Colorize
03:01here, then the top of the effect is grayed out and you can't make any changes.
03:05You do everything down below the Colorize checkbox.
03:08So we can move the Hue around a little bit. We could also saturate that adding
03:13more of the color or less of the color, so maybe it's more of a subtle tint
03:17there. But again, even here you don't want to fiddle with Lightness. There are
03:21better ways to adjust Luminance or in other words Lightness that we'll talk
03:24about later in this chapter.
03:25Now I'm actually going to deselect Colorize and actually I'm going to hit Reset
03:30on Hue/Saturation just to get back to square one here. Another one of the often
03:34overlooked features of the Hue/ Saturation effects is that we can go into the
03:38Channel control dropdown here and change individual colors.
03:42So let's say maybe you want to change the flesh tones or maybe you want to
03:46change the blue background, but you want to leave everything else the same,
03:49let's go to Blues. So now as we adjust the Blue Hues, then the colors of the
03:55skin tone are left pretty much alone. So if you look at her lips or lipstick,
04:00it's pretty much the same color.
04:02So if you find that you are editing a shot and maybe somebody is wearing a red shirt
04:06that's just horrible and awful and you hate it. Then just change the
04:09Channel control to Reds and maybe you can just drop-down the Saturation and
04:13desaturate those reds, so it's not as intense.
04:16So as you can see, the Hue/Saturation effect is very simple and easy to use.
04:19It's very straight forward, it's intuitive and it's just a really simple effect
04:23to make some great changes. I find myself going to this effect all the time.
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Using levels to adjust brightness
00:00In this movie we are going to begin our look at the ever-popular Levels effect.
00:05For most After Effects users, Levels is the go to effect for adjusting
00:09brightness issues. As we'll see in the next movie, we could also use it for
00:13color correcting and compositing as well.
00:15I have here a photo of the lovely Marian, the lead singer of You Yell You Kick,
00:20a band that we'll be looking at a little bit later and what we are going to do
00:23is apply the Levels effect to this image.
00:25Now, I should probably point out to you that throughout this chapter we are
00:27going to be using images instead of video, but just so you know these effects
00:31work the same on both. Color correction becomes more difficult as you work on
00:35compressed video and we have to compress those videos pretty good to get them
00:38in the exercise files. So we often get better results when using images for our
00:42training on color correction than with video.
00:45Now with the Levels effect applied, let's go over the Effect Controls panel
00:47here and we notice we have this thing called a Histogram. You might have to
00:51resize your Effect Controls panel in order to see the entire histogram.
00:56This may seem confusing but it's actually pretty simple to understand and you
00:59need to get this in order to be able to use Levels effectively.
01:03A Histogram is a read out of the Brightness values in an image. That's telling
01:07you that there is more of that particular Brightness value.
01:10So just a quick glance at this histogram, we see that we have a lot of shadow
01:15areas. We have a lot of brighter mid tones and we really don't have too much in
01:19the way of highlights. And if we look back at our image here in the Composition
01:23panel, we can concur with that.
01:24Now one of the things you typically want to do with continuous tone footage, in
01:27other words, real life footage is you want to make sure that there is pure
01:31white and pure black.
01:33Now, if there is a flat line here or on the left side of the shadows, that
01:36means you are not getting pure highlights in this case. So what I'm going to do
01:40is I'm going to drag this little arrow over and that's going to make it so that
01:43this brightest pixel now becomes pure white.
01:46So you want to be really careful that you don't drag this too far to the left,
01:51because now all of these tones become pure white and you lose all those details
01:55in the highlights. You can see how terrible that looks.
01:57Sometimes if you like going for the apocalyptic explosion, then it's okay for a
02:01special effect. Just to make sure, if you are going to break the rules, you
02:05have a real reason why you are going to break the rules.
02:07When I put this highlight triangle back in the right spot here, the shadows are fine.
02:11We have pure blacks. We don't need to fiddle with that. But we do need to
02:14adjust the mid tones. If we drag this mid tone slighter to the left, we are
02:18going to brighten the mid tones. If we drag it to the right, we are going to
02:23darken the mid tones. And here we see the real benefit of Levels over using
02:27let's say for example, the Lightness in Hue/Saturation.
02:31With that Lightness slider in Hue/ Saturation, you remember, every pixel is
02:34either universally lightened or universally darkened. And now as we fill with
02:38these mid tones, you can see we can darken things up quite a bit but this white
02:42highlight on this button is still pure white and likewise if we were to
02:46brighten the mid tones, you would still have pure black in the shadows.
02:50Now, what I have just shown you is probably the way that Levels is used most
02:54commonly and again, what most people use it for is just to take the triangles
02:58on the left and right sides, if there was a flat line and just drag them in.
03:02We would do that with the shadows on the left-hand side but this line isn't flat,
03:05there is already shadow detail and if we did that then we'd be crushing all of
03:08these values to pure black, thereby losing details in the shadows. So we don't
03:13want to do that here.
03:14But again, as I mentioned in the beginning of this movie, there is another
03:17purpose that people use Levels for, to color correct and composite. So let's
03:21look at that in the next movie.
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Using levels with individual channels
00:00Now continuing on with where we left off this photo of Marian from You Yell You Kick,
00:04let's go ahead and dig a little deeper into Levels.
00:07Now sometimes, for whatever reason, the histogram kind of freaks out and
00:10you get this box. So I'm actually kind of glad this worked this way. If that ever
00:14happens to you just basically need to refresh the cache. So just unclick the
00:18Effects icons for Levels and bring it back and it will refresh. And so here you
00:22see the before and the after. This is the original photo before Levels and this
00:26is what we did in the last movie with Levels.
00:28In this case, I'm actually going to click the Reset button to reset Levels back
00:32to its default. Note that Levels in its default state is just an info only
00:36plug-in. It's not really doing anything until we actually adjust stuff so now
00:40that we have reset it, before and after look exactly the same.
00:43Now, I want you to put your attention to the top of the effect. Under the
00:45Channel drop-down, we are looking at RGB, in other words, the Composite Color
00:50image. Where we adjust the mid tones, we are adjusting all of the mid tones.
00:54What we can do is go to this Channel drop-down and adjust channels
00:57individually. So, if we go to the Red Channel, we can tweak the Red channel.
01:01Now as we drag the mid tone slider for the Red channel to the right, we are
01:06basically removing Red which adds the opposite color, which is Cyan.
01:10Now you can do the same thing with the Green channel or with the Blue channel
01:14and again here, it pays to know a little bit about color theory. Let's say for
01:17example that the opposite of Blue is Yellow. I want to add a little bit more
01:20yellow to this in addition to the Cyan that we added. So I'm going to subtract some of the Blue.
01:25So we can keep going, have this be very Yellow image, which is just a slight
01:28Yellow tint. That's a little bit too much, but you get the idea that we have
01:32some room to play with color here using these different color channels.
01:36I should also point out that you can not only edit color channels individually
01:40but also the Alpha channel. If you have a piece of footage with featured edges
01:44or maybe it's keyed and the edges are too soft, they are faded maybe. You can
01:48play with these triangles underneath the Alpha channel here to adjust that. You
01:52can also fade Opacity by dragging this to the left, which fades the image.
01:56We will talk a little bit more about what this lower bar does in just a moment.
02:00For now, I'm actually going to select the Levels effect on this image and
02:03delete it, getting back to the original state of the image.
02:06Now one of the great advantages to being able to adjust the Levels of each
02:10channel individually is that it aids us when we are compositing. In other
02:13words, we are combining two images that don't really belong together.
02:17So what I have done is I have imported a photo of me from the big After Effects
02:21project here and this certainly doesn't belong for a lot of reasons but one of
02:26the biggest reasons visually that it doesn't belong is that the colors are way off.
02:30This is obviously shot in two very different lighting conditions. In real
02:35life, Marian's skin is probably darker than mine because, Casper the Ghost's
02:39skin is darker than mine, so I'm just saying Marian's is as well.
02:42So, what we are going to do is I'm going to show you a trick to use Levels on
02:46my layer, so that I blend in more fully with Marian. Here is how this works.
02:51I'm going to apply Levels to me here and what we are going to do is we are
02:55going to come down to the bottom of the Composition panel and look at just the
02:59Red channel for all images, for the entire composition. And then what we are
03:03going to do is go back to Levels effect, in the Effect Controls panel, change
03:06the Channel drop-down to Red and then what I want to do is I want to fiddle
03:11with the Red channel Levels so that my brightness looks like her brightness on
03:16this channel and that my shadows and mid tones look like her shadows and mid tones.
03:21And we are going to do this for each channel separately and by the time you are
03:25done, you will have a pretty good composite. In this case, I could see that her
03:29highlights are a lot more bright than mine. So I need to drag the right side of
03:34this upper histogram here, drag that to the left to make this a little bit
03:39brighter overall. Now I also notice that her black jacket and my black shirt
03:43should probably look about the same.
03:45Right now, mine is much darker. So we could play with the mid tones, if we
03:49like, until we get that a little bit brighter dragging this mid tone triangle
03:53to the left a little bit more and we could also come down here to this lower bar.
03:56This lower bar controls the output values. And this actually works a
04:02little bit more intuitively than does the upper three triangles. Basically this
04:06right-hand side represents the highlights again, but it's the output highlights.
04:10So if we want to take all white values and make them darker, they are too
04:14bright for whatever reason, we could just drag this down. And you can see that
04:17it's just lowering the value of all the bright values. Likewise, if we restore
04:22that and then drag the Shadows slider in from the left to the right, then we
04:26are lightening all shadows.
04:28So that's one way we could make both of their shadows match. Now it might be
04:32seeming like I'm kind of contradicting myself here, because I have said before
04:34throughout this chapter and probably said a few times more that we shouldn't be
04:37brightening the shadows or darkening the highlights and normally that is true.
04:42But you see in this case, we are not trying to go for a good quality result, we
04:46are trying to match two layers. Once we have composited them, then we can color
04:51correct and restore the shadows of both of them. But priority one at this point
04:56is just to get them looking the same.
04:58Now we probably could darken this a little bit more and that looks pretty good
05:02there and the next step is to come back down to the Composition panel and
05:06change the channel that we are viewing to Green. Now you can see there is a
05:10little highlight at the bottom and the top of the Composition panel, it changes
05:13to Green instead of Red and you know that we are looking at only the Green channel.
05:17Now, we are going to do the same thing. Change the Channel drop-down to Green
05:20and adjust the Highlight values and the Shadow values so that they are similar
05:26between the two images.
05:27Finally, lets go to the Blue channel, notice that I'm not taking time to get
05:32this exactly perfect. But we'll just get in the ballpark and see how this goes.
05:37Bring up the highlights, and in this case, her jacket is very, very bright.
05:42A lot of brightness in the Blue channel. So what I'm going to do is bring this up
05:46quite a bit here, and you don't brighten this quite so much. That looks about right.
05:51So again, I'm looking at our faces because that's really where the highlights
05:54are, and I'll be overdoing it just a little bit, but good enough.
05:58Now, finally let's go down to the Composition panel, at the bottom here, change
06:02this to RGB. That's the Composite view seeing all the channels and we could see
06:07the final result here.
06:08Now we are seeing a little bit of the Blue, Green tint in the black of my shirt
06:13that we don't see in Marian's jacket but overall this looks much better. If we
06:18take off the visibility of the Levels effect by clicking this Effects icon next
06:21to Levels, we could see the before and after. So even though both images are in
06:27need of a color correction, they now match one another.
06:31Now if we go to the finished composition, we can see one that I put a little
06:34bit more time and effort into, and the color cast is gone out of the black and
06:38we are getting a little closer there.
06:40Skin tones are basically in the ballpark there and also too you couldt see
06:44my pasty whiteness a little bit better. Her skin looks like it has a little
06:47more color to it, which is I'm sure the way it would be in real life. So we are
06:50getting pretty close.
06:51In the next movie, we are going to demystify another luminance adjusting powerhouse, the Curves effect.
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Understanding curves
00:00While Levels is probably the most common way to adjust brightness, Curves is
00:06probably the most powerful. But the reason why more people don't use it is
00:10it's not as intuitive or easy to use as Levels. But in this tutorial, I'm going
00:14to demystify it for you. I'm going to show you also why you'd want to use it over Levels.
00:20I have here this photo I took of the Space Needle and I took this photo to use
00:24it in an HDR series using the Merge to HDR feature in Photoshop if you know
00:28about that and so it's little bit on the dark side. So I'm going to apply the
00:32Curves Effect to the Space Needle here. And this one of the things that trips
00:36people up about Curves right here, and looking at the Curves Effect in the
00:39Effect Controls panel, we have basically have this diagonal line.
00:42Well, the benefit of Curves, we need to understand about it before we move on
00:46here is that Curves allows you to remap different brightness values to other
00:52brightness values. So if you want to make the highlight shadows and the shadows
00:56highlights, you can do that with Curves although you can't really do that with Levels.
01:00Likewise, you can remap pretty much any level of gray to any other level of gray.
01:04Now by default, white is mapped to white and black is mapped to black,
01:08and so this line is always a diagonal when we begin. The highlights are
01:12represented on the right side, midtones are in the middle and the shadows are
01:16on the left, just like with Levels.
01:18Now this bottom line represents the current colors in the image. This
01:22horizontal line on the left hand side represents the colors that we are going
01:25to map those colors to. So let's take for example, this midtone here, this
01:29represents midtones and again it's map to the midtone over here on the left-hand side.
01:35If we were to take that up, then the color that was here is now remapped higher
01:41a little bit. In other words, it's brighter. If we were to take it down, we are
01:45going to darken it. So again, what you really need to understand about Curves
01:49is that going upward brightens things and going downward darkens things. I'll
01:53go ahead and click Reset here.
01:55One of the most common Curves adjustment is something called an S curve, and
01:59what we do is we go to the right hand side which represents the highlights of
02:02the image and we drag them upwards to make those highlights brighter. And then
02:06we go to the left side of the image, which represents the shadow areas, and we
02:09drag them down to make them darker.
02:11So we are kind of make a little S here. In this way, we have increased the
02:14contrast of the image. We can see the before and the after, still not too
02:18spectacular though. So we can click on this curve on the right hand side and
02:22bring that up more. And that's great, and that really does bring out the
02:25contrast but the problem is the Space Needle is still too dark.
02:29So what I can do is now, go over to other areas in the midtones and click on
02:34those areas and bring those up as well or these shadow areas. Why am I
02:38darkening them when I actually want them to be brighter? So I can click this
02:41little point here and move this up and so now we can see these areas in the
02:45Space Needle whereas we couldn't before. So really, this is why we prefer
02:50Curves to Levels. Why? It's more advanced, gives you far more control that you
02:55don't have with Levels.
02:56I am going to go ahead and reset this Curve. I'm actually going to do something
02:59else you can do with this effect. You can't do with Levels. If I drag this
03:04down, the highlights on the right hand side. Basically, what we can do is
03:08darken the skies and then we can brighten the Space Needle.
03:13So we were basically brightening the shadows and darkening the highlights. And
03:19we can keep fiddling with this until we have an overcast sky and a bright Space
03:24Needle. So this is what we started with, a dark Space Needle and a fairly
03:28bright sky, and we've switched it around a little bit. That's a lot of power there.
03:33Now one of those claimers that you don't want to make it so that a part of the
03:36curve is high on the left than it is on the right. We are also going to get
03:40posterization. Now that actually looks kind of cool. But that's a more of an
03:44exception in the rule, you see you get some really weird psychedelic effects
03:47that really don't look that awesome, okay that looks even more awesome.
03:50But usually, it doesn't look that good because of posterizatiion- when a part
03:53of the curve on the left is higher than any part of the curve on the right.
03:57I'll take little bit more time with another example, in the finished
03:59composition and we actually made it look like an overcast day.
04:03One of the things that's characteristic of a sunny day is that we have a lot
04:07more contrast, so we have shadows and we have darker spots and brighter spots,
04:13a lot more contrast when the sun is out. And when the sun is not out, we don't
04:17have the same contrast, so not only do we play with the luminance a little bit,
04:20we really change the whole tone of the shot with Curves and this is absolutely
04:25something we could not do with Levels.
04:28So to sum it all up you may not want to use Curves at every chance but it
04:31really behooves you to get good at this effect because there are so much you
04:34can do that other effects cannot do.
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Working with the Info panel
00:00Okay, so the last few movies have been a little mentally demanding so what I
00:04want to do is take a little mental break and just give you a quick little tip here.
00:07And that is on how to use the Info panel. By default it's up in the upper
00:11right hand corner of the screen in After Effects and again, if you don't see it,
00:15 you can go to the Window panel and just select Info there.
00:19Now while there are Info panels in a lot of Adobe products, I find that I use
00:22the Info panel in After Effects more than I use it any other Adobe application.
00:27The Info panel is constantly trying to give you info about what's going on and
00:31we are doing color correction, so it's especially important as you put your
00:34cursor over a pixel, it gives you the RGB values and it gives you a color
00:38swatch of the color that your cursor is over.
00:40You could also see in the Info panel that it gives you the X and Y coordinates
00:44of where your cursor is as well. Now you could just imagine how handy this is
00:48for color correction. Now we know this is white because we know what human eyes
00:52look like. But if I put my cursor over this, you'll actually see that it's a
00:55blue color. You see sometimes, your eyes trick you into thinking that you are
00:59seeing something that you assume is there when it's not. So the Info panel
01:03helps you see what is actually there.
01:06So now we can go in there and let's say apply Hue/Saturation, change the
01:10Channel control to Blues and maybe desaturate the Blues a little bit and
01:17perhaps even lighten the Blues. That might adjust our overall image. And so
01:21that did manage to get rid of the blue in our eyes, it also manage to get rid
01:25of some of the blue in the image and some of that's bad, some of that's good,
01:29but here is the before with the blue eyes, here is the afterwards with the
01:33light gray eyes. So it's not perfect but it's definitely better than it was
01:37before. Thanks to the Info panel.
01:39Now again, we put our cursor over something, we also get the Alpha value. 255
01:44is completely opaque, so we know that this layer is completely opaque. Now if
01:48we are going to take down the Opacity of this layer, then as we put our cursor
01:52over this layer, you could see the Alpha value changes to 145 at 57% opacity.
01:57So as you can imagine, this is good sometimes for troubleshooting as well if
02:01you have a layer with a lot of varying decrease of opacity, then you put your
02:05cursor over it and the Info panel will give you a read out on the opacity of
02:08that exact pixel as well.
02:10So just a little tip, keep that Info panel out, get used to using it, not only
02:14is it helpful for color and position but a lot of other information as well.
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A few "rules" about color correction
00:00In this movie, we are going to look at some basic rules of thumb for color
00:04correction. Here we have a photo of Marian again. This is a little bit
00:07different photo and it's been Photoshopped and this illustrates a common
00:11problem that we see in image editing and sometimes in video as well.
00:16It's usually a good idea to keep the flesh tones as flesh. In this case,
00:22her skin has a green tint to it. Now it's okay if the whole image has a cool green
00:27tint to it. I love what's going on the background. I love these colors. It's great.
00:30 But her skin looks pale and green. No matter what you are doing in After
00:35Effects when you are making this alternative reality, you need to make sure
00:38that you are especially careful with things dealing with human beings.
00:42Painting, it's the same way. If you paint a landscape and a tree is little bit off
00:46 then people can let that go a little bit.
00:49But if you are painting the human face, then something instinctive inside of us
00:53knows what the human face is supposed to look like. We know what human skin is
00:57supposed to look like. We know how things were supposed to move when it's
01:00humans moving. So your audience is going to be much more critical of things
01:04you do relating to human beings.
01:07If you had a couch stand up and walk, then people are going to be as critical
01:10because the couch doesn't walk so you can make it walk however you want it to walk.
01:13When you are dealing with issues pertaining to people, you need to make
01:16sure that you're very dead on accurate. In the case of color correction,
01:20we want to try to keep these skin tones as close to skin tones as possible.
01:24Now the next thing we've already kind of covered a little bit if we hop on over
01:27to the Space Needle comp. We want to make sure that as we are brightening and
01:32darkening our footage that we are leaving the highlights bright and the shadows dark.
01:36You want to make sure you stay away from the evil brightness and
01:40contrast. Brightness and contrast is my nemesis.
01:43If you bump your brightness just a little bit or take it down a little bit to
01:46darken the image, you are actually adjusting and shifting the highlights and
01:50shadows, which is typically not a good idea. Again, if you are using this on
01:54vector graphics, that's fine. If you are using this on grayscale images or
01:58whatever, that's fine as well, but don't use this on regular footage with
02:02continuous tones. Bad idea.
02:05And finally, I want to go over to this Angela overbright and this photo kind of
02:08defies the rules. Really, really, really bright brights and really, really dark darks,
02:12 but the balance really works and hey, I get that. You know, this is a
02:16really an art form what we are doing here in After Effects. So sometimes rules
02:19are made to be broken but as with an art form, make sure that you are breaking
02:24rules for a reason.
02:25If you are going to have an image that's a strong contrast or if you are going
02:28to have a blue tint or a red tint, make sure it goes with the story that you are telling.
02:32If you want to create a relaxed atmosphere then you don't want to use a red tint,
02:35you want to use a blue tint probably, or if something really intense is
02:39happening, you would probably want to use a redder tint or warmer tone rather
02:42than a cooler tone. Or if you're doing a remake, let's say Steel Magnolias,
02:46then you don't want the contrast that intense because it's not that intense of
02:50a story. It's a soft fluffy story.
02:53On the other hand if you are editing an episode of 24 or something that's very,
02:56very intense, then you would want intense contrasting colors because the story
03:00is very intense. So there is just a few rules about color correction. Again,
03:04rules are meant to be broken so use these at your leisure. It was just a few
03:07things that I have noticed that people could generally benefit from.
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Using color balance
00:00Color balance is another one of my favorite color adjusting effects,
00:04so we're going to look at that in this movie. I'm going to apply the Color Balance
00:07effect to the Lincoln memorial statue here. Now at first glance I'd realize
00:11that this effect isn't super intuitive, especially if you are coming over from
00:15Photoshop and you are familiar with this effect over there because it is
00:18a little bit of graphic interface in Photoshop but nevertheless it is pretty
00:22straightforward and easy to get a hold of once you play around with it for a bit.
00:26Basically, this effect allows you to adjust the shadows, midtones, and
00:29highlights of the red, green, and blue balance. So we have Shadow Red, Shadow
00:34Green, Shadow Blue, Midtone Red, Midtone Green, Midtone Blue, Highlight Red,
00:38Highlight Green, Highlight Blue. So let's say we want to warm up this image a
00:42little bit. We can go to the Shadow Red Balance and increase that value to add some red to this.
00:47Likewise we could add some red to the highlights and midtones as well. Now this
00:52is looking a little too red so I would like to add some yellow. However,
00:55you will notice that there is no yellow here. So we actually get yellow by
00:59subtracting blue. Again, as we discussed earlier in this chapter, it really
01:03pays to know a little bit about color theory.
01:05So the opposite of red is cyan, the opposite of green is magenta, the opposite
01:09of blue is yellow. So if we want to add some yellow, we simply subtract blue.
01:15So I go to Shadow Blue Balance for example, drag this to the left and this will
01:20take blue out of some of the shadow areas. And that adds a nice yellowish tint,
01:25which combine with the red that we've already added, makes a nice warm kind of sepia tone.
01:29It's actually probably a little bit more red than a sepia tone but something
01:32along those lines. We also have this Preserve Luminosity checkbox that we can
01:36click, which will preserve the original luminosity. So here is the before and
01:40the after. That Preserve Luminosity is a little bit too intense for me.
01:44So before and after there.
01:46One of the things I really like about this effect, I'm just going to go ahead
01:48and hit the Reset button is that we could blend multiple colors. So if I wanted
01:53to maybe add some blue, let's go ahead and add a little bit of blue here to
01:57Highlights, Midtones, and Shadows. We could also go ahead and add some green
02:03and playing around with this, so you get some really interesting effects. Check
02:07Preserve Luminosity here.
02:08So now we have like this really cool film like look and even though
02:13Hue/Saturation is much easier to use, color balance just generally is better
02:18for me for getting that kind of film quality look. Like when I look at this,
02:22this could very easily be a still frame from a film. So again, here is the
02:27original and here is with color balance. It's just this nice film type look and
02:33color, get a lot of possibilities from balancing all these values here.
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Creating a "day for night" effect
00:00A day for night shot is when a shot is taken during the day and then in
00:05postproduction like say here in After Effects, you take the shot and trying to
00:08make it look like it was shot at night. This is a really popular technique
00:12that's use often in TV shows and also in feature films as well.
00:16Now there are several reasons this is done. Number 1, it's really costly to do
00:21a night time shot, it's got to be lit just right and that usually takes a long
00:24time which means money and also usually it means an extended stay for the crew
00:29which can also be time consuming and costly.
00:31So let me show you a few tools you can use, putting together what we've
00:34learned so far in this chapter to create the day for night shot. Basically, we
00:37are going to start with this photo of the US Capital that I took and we are
00:40going to have it end up looking like this, day for night.
00:45Okay, let's go ahead and start out by adding Curves to the US Capital building
00:49here in the Start composition. Now a few things we want to be aware of,
00:53obviously we need to make this much darker, but we also need to make sure that
00:57we are tinting it the appropriate color.
00:59If we're tinting this for a sunset shot, we need to make sure the colors are
01:04very warm. The orange tone that we are seeing here on the capital building
01:09would be perfect, so we just want to extenuate that. But we actually want to
01:12create a dark nighttime, which usually has more of a blue tint. So with that in
01:17mind, let's go over to Curves here.
01:18Now the first thing, I'm going to do is I'm going to over in this upper right
01:21hand corner, this dot represents the highlights, the brightest point in our
01:26image and I want this to be darker because the whites that are available during
01:30bright sunlight like this are going to be very different than the bright
01:33highlights available during moonlight, even the full moonlight.
01:36So, I'm going to grab this point and drag it down, thereby remapping the
01:41brightest tones to a darker value. So here is the before and after. Then I'm
01:48going to drag the middle of the curve like the midtones, drag these down a lot.
01:53And it's a little bit too intense.
01:54Now it's looking pretty good, but what that's done is it actually brought up
01:58the intensity of the orangeness of the US Capital building which is not what we want.
02:03So I'm going to go to Hue/ Saturation and I'm going to add a
02:07Hue/Saturation here. First thing, we need to do is go to Channel control in
02:10Hue/Saturation, changes to reds. That's the colors that we want to work on here.
02:15I'm going to take down the saturation of the reds and you might want to
02:20even change the hue of this to maybe be like a blue type color.
02:24I am going to take down Saturation, maybe even take down lightness just a
02:30little bit so our capital building is a little bit darker and there we go.
02:35I also might want to go to the blues here and take down the saturation of the
02:41blues, just a little and also the lightness of the blues.
02:45Now again I have always said stay away from the lightness here in
02:47Hue/Saturation but that's mostly when you are working on the lightness of the
02:51entire image, and here also we are trying to darken the whole image, we don't
02:55want the perfectly white highlights. So it's okay to take down the lightness of
02:59individual color channels.
03:01Next is go ahead and apply Color Balance. We need to kind of adjust these
03:04colors a little bit. Color Balance is the tool for the job here. Let's go ahead
03:08and increase the Blue Shadow Balance, so there is more blue in the shadows.
03:13That looks much better. Next just go ahead and check Preserve Luminosity. That
03:17darkens things up quite a bit as well. I'm going to tone down the Shadow Blue
03:21Balance on that, not too shabby.
03:23Now if you wanted to, you could keep going with this. We could stack a Levels
03:26effect on this if we wanted to and maybe take down the midtones, if that's the
03:31way we wanted to go. One of the things that I did in my finished example is I
03:34turned this into a 3D layer by clicking this 3D Cube checkbox on the layer in
03:39the Timeline panel and then I right- click in the blank spot, here in the
03:42Timeline panel, selected New > Light and I chose a spotlight and I went ahead
03:48and feathered this 100% and click OK.
03:51Then I'll go up to the transformed gizmo on the light and make sure your cursor
03:56says Z, click and drag upwards making the light kind of move outwards a little bit.
04:02Now we could play with this light a lot, we can go in here and select the
04:05light, hit the letter T for intensity and adjust the intensity of the light,
04:10if we want to tone that down a little bit. But over all for this quick little run
04:15through of these effects here, we've produced a fairly realistic night shot of
04:19the capital building, just by way of comparison here is it with the light and
04:23effects off. That's our original and then with the effects and light on.
04:29And again here is my finished example, looks pretty similar to the start
04:33example. I did take a little bit more time to play with it to kind of get
04:35things just right. So feel free if you've access to the Exercise Files to go
04:39ahead and see what I did here, I just used Curves, Hue/Saturation, and Color
04:42Balance and of course, a light here.
04:44Doing day for night shots in post production never quite looks exactly right.
04:50I mean we can look at these and find some flaws, things that don't quite look
04:54like a nighttime shot but all-in-all, this is a much cheaper alternative than
04:59bringing a film crew in and actually shooting at night.
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About bit depth
00:00One of things that you frequently hear in the world of image editing or video
00:04editing is all the stuff about bits. This is 8 bits, or 10 bits, or 32 bits or
00:10whatever, and that could be kind of confusing. But it's also a very important
00:13topic to deal with when you are looking at color.
00:17So, in this movie and also in the next movie we're going to take a look at Bit Depth.
00:21First let's look at what a Bit is. A Bit is the computer's most basic
00:26level of understanding. Basically, what that means is that a Bit is either a 1 or a 0.
00:32That's how a computer thinks in the background. It's all just 1s or 0s. We see
00:36letters, we see interfaces, and buttons, and menus and all that kind of stuff.
00:41The computer only understands really 1s and 0s. So, if we have something that
00:47is 8 bits, that can mathematically be expressed as 28. The 2 comes from the
00:54options of 1 or 0. Two choices here.
00:57So, if there is 8 bits, then the possible amount of choices is 256. So, when
01:02something is 8 bit, it means there is 256 color possibilities. Now, typically
01:08when people talk about an 8-bit image, they mean 8 bits per channel.
01:14In that case, the Red channel would have 8 bits, the Green channel has 8 bits,
01:17and the Blue channels has 8 bits. So, there is 24 bits in other words. That
01:22means there is 256 color possibilities for Red, 256 for Green and Blue as well.
01:28We arrive at the number of colors possible in RGB, in other words an 8 bit per
01:33channel RGB image by multiplying 256X256X256. The end result is 16.7 million
01:43colors. So, just be aware moving forward, as we look a little bit deeper into
01:47this, is that when we have a regular 8 bit per channel RGB image, there are
01:5116.7 million color choices, which is already more than the human eye can see.
01:57Now, what about 16 bits? Basically that can mathematically be expressed as 216.
02:03That equals 65,536. So then in a 16 bit per channel image, we have 65,536 color
02:13choices per channel. For the Red channel, for the Green channel, for the Blue
02:16channel. And we arrive at the final amount of color possibilities by
02:19multiplying 65,536 times that, times that. And that is 281 trillion colors,
02:28when we move to 16 bits.
02:31By the way we'll talk a little bit more about 8 bit versus, 16 bit versus, 32
02:34bit, in the next movie. But basically back to discussion here, we have 281
02:39trillion colors when working in 16 bit per channel mode. Now, isn't that enough
02:45colors? Seriously, already with 8 bits per channel it's more than the human eye
02:49can see. So, why do we even need to go up to 16 bits per channel? Let alone
02:53what we have now, 32 bits per channel.
02:56The thing is that when you have a 24- bit image and also sometimes that will
03:01include an 8-bit alpha channel. In other words it will be 256 degrees of
03:05transparency in the alpha channel, so it's an extra 8 bits. So that will be 32
03:10bits, but it will be 32 bits total.
03:13Now, way back in After Effects 7, they introduced something called high dynamic
03:17range images. High dynamic range images often referred to as HDRI in the 3D
03:23world, but referred to as HDR inside After Effects.
03:26These types of images are capable of a lot more because of their color range.
03:32These images have 32 bits per channel. In other words that's 232 per channel.
03:41That is a lot of colors. But there is something else that happens when we have
03:4632 bits per channel. That's really what this whole discussion about bits is leading up to.
03:52So, we are going to culminate this discussion in the next movie, when we look
03:56at what happens when we use 32 bits per channel color. It's magic, folks. You
04:01don't want to miss this. If this whole thing seems too technical, then it will
04:05seem nontechnical. In the next movie we'll put it to practical use, and you'll
04:09see the glory of HDR color.
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Using HDR/32-bit float point color
00:00So now that we know little bit about Bit Depth, we're going to put it to
00:03practical use and talk about HDR color. We have here some generic white text.
00:08Currently and by default our After Effects project is in 8 bits per channel mode.
00:12I can tell that by going down to the bottom of the Project panel and seeing
00:16this 8 bpc. Bpc stands for bits per channel. Now, before we do that, I want to
00:21put my cursor over this text. Notice the Info panel in the upper right hand
00:25corner of the screen. This is telling me that the RGB values for this text is
00:30255, 255, 255. That is pure white.
00:34Remember how we said that there are 256 color possibilities for each channel.
00:38Well, they actually start counting at 0. So instead of going from 1 to 256,
00:43it actually goes from 0 to 255. So pure black would be expressed as 000;
00:50pure white is 255, 255, 255.
00:54However, if we go over here to the bottom of the Project panel and hold the
00:57Option key on the Mac or the Alt key on the PC and click that one time, we go
01:02into 16 bit per channel mode. Note that this has to done on a project level.
01:07You cannot make a layer 16 bits per channel or a composition 16 bits per
01:11channel, only an entire project.
01:14So, now as I put my cursor over this text. We see that up here in the Info
01:18panel these numbers are much higher than the 255, 255, 255 limit we saw moments
01:23ago with 8 bits per channel. Now, before we go on to the glory of 32 bits per
01:28channel, I want to add the Fast Blur effect.
01:30I'm going to go into the Effects & Presets panel, open up Blur & Sharpen.
01:34And we see these little numbers here. These little numbers indicate the bit depth
01:38that effect is able to operate at.
01:41So, some like CC Vector Blur can only operate at 8 bits per channel. Some like
01:45Lens Blur can work at 16 bits per channel and some like Fast Blur can operate
01:50at the full 32 bits per channel.
01:52So, we apply the Fast Blur effect. As we increase the Blurriness here,
01:56it's just a generic blur, kind of like you're squint in your eyes or something.
01:59That's nothing to write home about. We are going to come back to that in just a second.
02:03Now, what I want to do is go over the Project panel, hold the Option key on
02:06the Mac or the Alt key on the PC again, and click one more time to change this
02:11to 32 bits per channel mode. Only when your project is in 32 bits per channel mode
02:16can you work with HDR color. Here is what all the hubbub is about.
02:20I'm going to go back to the Character panel, click open this color swatch and
02:23you'll notice that our white now is set to 2, or maybe on your system that
02:28might be set to 1. Now, you would think because each color channel is 32 bits,
02:34this would be a gigantic number.
02:36Say, we just have a 1 or 2. Well, the magic of HDR color, folks, is that
02:40it tries to simulate light in the real world, the way that light behaves, and
02:45because of that we can create something called super white color.
02:49When we're in 8 bit, we do have white. So what, big deal? But if you look in
02:53the real world there is different types of white. If I hold up a piece of paper
02:56in front of your face, you might say, "yeah, okay, that's a white piece of
02:58paper". But then if I've shined a flashlight in your face, you would say,
03:01"okay, now that's really white." And then if you look directly at the sun
03:03you would say, "Well, that's far more white than the flashlight is."
03:07So, there are degrees of white of super whiteness in the real world.
03:12The same can be true of shadows as well. They get super black, but they are
03:15little bit less discernible with our eyes. So, the glory here is that I can
03:20create super white color.
03:22So I'm going to take this blue color, let's say to 4. And I'll take Green to 3.
03:28This would create this kind of greenish blue color. We'll go ahead and click OK.
03:33It still looks like white here.
03:34But now when I go back over to the Effect Controls panel, I'm using this 32 bit
03:39per channel effect that understands and works at 32 bits per channel and
03:42I increase Blurriness, you'd notice that we don't have that ugly, blur your eye
03:47effect anymore. The super white green and blue is creating this wonderful,
03:53beautiful, very life-like halo around our text.
03:58Thus, we see the great advantages of learning bit depth in HDR color. So,
04:02you can pull tricks like this glowing neon stuff out of your hat in a moment's
04:07notice. Now this trick is great for texts, motion graphics, compositing and now
04:11in CS4 even shape layers can operate at 32 bits per channel.
04:15So imagine what you can do with glowing neon shapes flying all over the place.
04:19So, it's a handy trick that's tough to pull off any other way.
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Ensuring that comps have video-safe color
00:00Before we end our look at color, I want to look at something called Broadcast
00:04Safe Color. You see when colors are broadcast, they have to fit within a
00:08certain spectrum. If they are too bright or too saturated, then they appear to
00:14glow and buzz on the screen. It just looks terrible.
00:17Nowadays you typically only see this when you're maybe staying up too late or
00:21you are watching a more budget local channel, or you are maybe watching an ad
00:25from a local business or something like that, they did their own commercial.
00:29After Effects is a great way to fix this. Go to Color Correction, Category of
00:33Effects, what we're going to do is apply the effect called Broadcast Colors.
00:38What that's going to do is automatically fix our colors, so that they fall
00:42within the proper specs for video color.
00:46Now, you might have noticed that when we applied this effect and especially
00:49when we start changing these settings, that we see a noticeable difference in
00:53our reds. That's just the nature of the beast. Now, I should probably tell you
00:56that, with this footage here of this little girl, what I have done is I've gone
01:00in before I've import this footage, I've increased the saturations as much as
01:03it could possibly go.
01:04So, you probably won't have footage that's this over saturated, this intense
01:09usually, but just to bring it into specs for broadcast, this effect will have
01:14to shave off some of the intensity that's just it's purpose. Just use your
01:19Broadcast Locale, either NTSC or Pal and choose what method you want it to use
01:26to fix your footage. Whether you wanted to reduce the brightness or whether you
01:30wanted to saturation.
01:32In our case the default of Reduce Luminance doesn't quite look as good as
01:36Reduce Saturation. Now, if you really know what you're doing, you could go in
01:39here and adjust the Maximum Signal. That might allow you to push just a little
01:44bit more color into this, but Adobe recommends staying with this 110. That is a
01:49very safe number to make sure that all of your colors here are going to fall
01:53within the specs that they should.
01:55Now, this is all fine and great for just this one layer. But what if we had an
02:00entire composition. We don't want to apply the same effect and change the
02:03settings for every single effect on every single layer in our composition.
02:07So, what we can do is just right-click in the Timeline, create a new adjustment
02:11layer. And adjustment layers affect everything beneath them. So what I just
02:16want to do here is maybe select Broadcast Colors, we can just hit Command+X or
02:20Ctrl+X on the PC to Cut that, select the adjustment layer, then Command+V on
02:24the Mac or Ctrl+V on the PC to paste that in. And then every layer beneath the
02:30adjustment layer will be broadcast safe.
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4. Color Correction in Camera Raw
Why use Camera Raw with After Effects?
00:01In this chapter we're going to be looking at using Adobe Camera Raw for After
00:05Effects. First let's look at what Adobe Camera Raw is. Camera Raw is a plug-in
00:11for After Effects. This plug-in is made for processing RAW images.
00:17Now, what is a RAW image? Basically, on some higher-end cameras, by higher-end
00:24I just mean like a few hundred bucks or more. This is typical on a lot of DSLR
00:28cameras, the cameras with interchangeable lenses.
00:31They create a RAW image. This is a less processed version than what you'd get
00:37with a TIF or a JPEG. A RAW image is often referred to as a Digital Negative,
00:43because it's kind of like the equivalent of a film negative. It's typically not
00:47used in its native state, but it is kind of like a master version of the image.
00:52Typically our RAW images have a higher quality, and that they often can have a
00:57wider color space, maybe even 16 bits. Now it's also important to realize that
01:02a RAW image comes in many file formats. It usually differs based on the camera manufacturer.
01:09So let's say for example I have a Canon camera. Then the RAW format that it
01:13puts out is .cr2. Nikon use this .nef and so on. Adobe came out with a RAW
01:19image file format called .DNG, stands for dot Digital Negative. They are kind
01:24of trying to get that out there as a standard that all cameras can use. Hasn't
01:30been super widely adopted yet, but it's getting more popular out there.
01:34So, especially if you're coming from a video background, you're probably
01:37wondering why would I want to use Camera Raw with After Effects? Well, first of
01:41all it's just easy. If you find your head spinning with Levels and Curves and
01:47Color Balance and Hue/Saturation, you could find that you can do a lot of that
01:50kind of stuff right there in Camera Raw and it's much easier.
01:54Another thing is this is going use a little bit less processing power. We are
01:57going to do the Camera Raw editing before it's imported into After Effects, and
02:01then you're done. Camera Raw images are usually little bit cleaner because they
02:04haven't been compressed as much, makes them a little bit bigger in file size,
02:08but their quality is usually better. That makes them ideal for background plates.
02:12Another thing you can do with Camera Raw that you can't do in After Effects
02:15really is do some image processing. If you're going to get rid of blemishes and
02:20a few things like that, there is the Clone Stamp tool in After Effects, but
02:24sometimes it doesn't always work as easily as you'd like it to.
02:28The image processing that you have, and the healing, and the cloning and that
02:31type of thing that you have in Camera Raw is better than what you'll find in After Effects.
02:35Finally Camera Raw is completely nondestructive. All the changes that you make
02:41to RAW images are stored either in the file or if they can't be saved in the
02:46file, then it will create a separate file. We'll talk about that later in this
02:50chapter, called the Sidecar file. All of your changes are stored in that.
02:54So you can't hurt the original. So it's great to use Adobe Camera Raw on many
02:59Levels. If you come from an image editing background, you'll be really glad to
03:03see Camera Raw here and to be able to use it with the After Effects.
03:06If you're coming from a video background, you haven't played too much with
03:09Camera Raw, you're going to love this stuff. So let's jump into in the next
03:13movie. And look at how to adjust Luminance in Camera Raw.
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Adjusting luminance in Camera Raw
00:00In this movie, we're going to look at how to import images into Camera Raw and
00:04also how to edit them for luminance. So I'm here in my Finder window.
00:09On Windows you'd be in your Explorer window. I have my CR2 file. These are raw
00:14files and I'm in the Images folder of the Media folder of the Exercise Files.
00:18I'm just going to drag this into After Effects, just drag-and-drop it on the icon here.
00:24You could also just import a CR2 file or a Camera Raw file in the regular way,
00:28the same way you'd import a JPEG or a Movie file, and then Camera Raw will
00:32automatically open. Now, one of the first things you want to do is come up here
00:36to the upper right-hand corner. We have some great data about the shot here.
00:41We'll come to that in just a second.
00:42We also have a histogram right above that, and we have also these two little
00:46unassuming triangles in the corners. Now if we look at this little triangle
00:50here on the upper left, this indicates the Shadow clipping warning. Over here
00:55when this one on the right-hand side is selected, it's going to show you the
00:59Highlight clipping warning.
01:00Basically, what that means is if you make your dots too black, it's going to
01:04show you by these ugly little blue marks. If you make your pixels too bright,
01:09it'll show you by these ugly red marks, as we'll soon see.
01:12Now getting it back to my camera stats here, the F-stop is the aperture,
01:17basically how much light is being let into the camera. The smaller the F-stop,
01:21the more light gets in. So an F-stop of 1.8 is actually a fairly open aperture.
01:28To the right of the F-stop, we have the Shutter Speed, 1/30 seconds of a
01:31second. That's actually really fast, which means we probably have a very sharp
01:35picture, and we do. That's great.
01:37The ISO value is 100. Now, this is a good thing, sometimes. If you have a
01:44higher ISO number, it lets in more light into the camera, but it also
01:47introduces noise. So we want this number to be as low as possible, but
01:51sometimes when we do that, our image tends to be a little bit darker than
01:55we want it. So we need to fix this a little bit. By the way, this little stat
01:59over here basically refers to the size of the lens that was used.
02:02So why not go down here to Exposure? You don't have to click on this little
02:07slider thing. I hate clicking on little, tiny arrows like that. But I prefer
02:10just click-and-drag on the name of the property, or actually anywhere around
02:15the name of the property, give you a little bit leeway here.
02:17So if I click on the word Exposure and drag to the right, you could see the
02:21histogram give us a live update of what's happening, and you could see here in
02:24the Image window obviously that things are brightening up quite a bit.
02:28Now as you look back up at our histogram here, you could see that we have some
02:30pixels that are right up against the edge. Remember, this is pure white. So if
02:35we keep bumping up Exposure, when we're going to get this Highlight clipping
02:39warning, this red junk that we're seeing.
02:41These red pixels are here, because we have this right-hand side triangle in
02:45this square showing, and it's telling us that these pixels are getting blown out.
02:49We're losing detail in these highlights because we have things too bright.
02:53Now for me sometimes, I really like this kind of blown out highlight effect.
02:58So what we can do is come down here to Recovery, and drag this to the right, and
03:02that allows us to keep the same amount of Brightness, basically. But it just
03:06kind of recovers those areas that were blown out, and brings those back so that
03:10we're getting the details back that we had lost.
03:12As we play with Fill Light-- actually I'm going to take down Exposure just a
03:16little bit. I like the way that looks, but in order so we have some room to
03:19play with this histogram on either side I'm going to take that back down a little bit.
03:21As we increase Fill Light, it increases the brightness of the mid tones and the
03:26shadows actually. So you want to be careful with that, because if I brighten
03:28this too much, we basically lose all shadow detail. As a matter of fact, as I'm
03:32fiddling with this, you could look up at this histogram and see that our
03:35shadows disappear. Usually, on a professional photo set, the fill light is the
03:39light that you add in to fill in the cracks and crevices and shadows.
03:43I'm always scared that I'm going to make my shadows too bright, so I just
03:46usually don't even touch that. The black slider controls the intensity of the
03:50shadows. So as we increase blacks, we're actually crushing these blacks and
03:55we get a lot more of that yucky blue, because again that's the shadow clipping
03:59warning. It's telling us that all of these values, where there is detail in the
04:02shadows, are being crushed to pure black.
04:05So we want to take that down until we don't have any more of those bad
04:09little blue pixels that are clipping warnings. Of course, we have the standard
04:13Brightness and the standard Contrast as well.
04:16Now down below this line, we have Clarity. For this I'm going to increase
04:19Exposure, pop up Recovery until we get rid of the red, there we go, looking nice.
04:23No warnings. Now Clarity is interesting. It's almost like sharpening, but
04:28it's good sharpening. I usually don't have too good of results when I use
04:32sharpening. I get those artifacts a little bit too soon for my liking. But with
04:36this Clarity slider, it's very subtle, but it really brings out detail without
04:41even realizing what's going on.
04:43So as I bumped that up gradually, it's kind of hard to see the difference, but
04:45if I were to take this all the way to the left, we can see that there is a
04:49little bit of a difference there. Wuite a significant difference, actually.
04:51But if you look at the details, like on her jacket, with the Clarity all the way up,
04:55they seem very gritty and real.
04:57But if I take this down a little bit, those become softer and not as
05:00pronounced. This Clarity slider is yet another reason why I like to use Camera
05:05Raw, in addition to the highlight clipping warnings and the multi-colored
05:09histogram and all these other features, it really is just this great tool.
05:13Now I realize that I'm just kind of glossing over the surface very briefly
05:17here and I'm going to be doing that throughout this chapter. If you want more
05:20information on this subject, Chris Orwig, an amazing trainer, has some great
05:24training right now on Lynda.com.
05:27Photoshop CS4 for Photographers: Camera Raw is a great title, but there is a
05:31lot of great Camera Raw stuff out there from him and other authors as well.
05:34So if you want to dig a little bit deeper, please check out their training.
05:37Now once you get all your settings the way that you like them, you go ahead and
05:40click OK. Once you've done that, then it will import this image into After Effects,
05:45just like a regular old image.
05:47Now as you can see by the bit depth, we're working with trillions of colors
05:50here and like I mentioned before in the last movie, a lot of times Camera Raw
05:54files can come in 16 bit, which is basically what this image is. When you have
05:58all those extra colors, it basically gives you more Wiggle room while you're
06:02editing. It allows you to make more fine edits.
06:04Now in the next movie, we'll look at how to reopen Camera Raw once you've
06:08imported a file and also how to adjust color in Camera Raw.
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Adjusting color in Camera Raw
00:01Continuing on where we left off in the last movie, we now want to look at
00:04adjusting color in Camera Raw. However, in the last movie, we clicked OK in
00:09Camera Raw, and that imported this CR2 image, this Raw Camera image, into our
00:14After Effects project.
00:16So once you've imported a Raw image, the way to open it back up in Camera Raw
00:20is to select it in the Project panel, and either go to Edit>Edit Original, or
00:26use the keyboard shortcut Command+E or Ctrl+E on the PC. Assuming that you
00:31don't have your raw files associated to be open by some other application on
00:37your computer, it will open back up in Camera Raw.
00:40There are few interesting ways to play with color here. We have Temperature and Tint.
00:44As you can see here, because this interface in Camera Raw is just so
00:48amazing, if we drag it to the left, it's going to be a little bit cooler,
00:52little bit more blue. Let me take off the highlight clipping, so we can see
00:55what that's really looking like here. Likewise, we can drag it to the right to
00:59warm it up a little bit and make it little bit more yellow.
01:02If you go really far out to the right on Temperature, you're going to add a
01:05very like antique type look, a little 70s look to it. That's not really what I
01:10want for the snow. So I'm going to take this back to where it was. Also, we
01:13could fine-tune the color tint that we're adding by adjusting Tint, and we can
01:17add green or magenta.
01:19Down here at the bottom, in this area below Clarity that we talked about in the
01:22last movie, we have Vibrance and Saturation. Now, Saturation increases the
01:27intensity of all colors, Vibrance does as well, but it's more subtle. It's
01:32especially more reverent, I guess, we could say or more careful about flesh tones.
01:37So as we increase the Vibrance here, her skin tone is not getting as crazy
01:41orange as it might get with Saturation. The colors are much more intense and
01:46vibrant, but they're not garish, as they can get with Saturation.
01:49So again, here is Saturation, and look at her skin tones. They're just awful
01:53and super fake. When we increase Vibrance, it does increase the Vibrance or
01:57Saturation, but her skin tones are still very believable. Now let's take these
02:02back to their defaults, somewhere in that ballpark.
02:05Now I want to go back up here to the top. Right now, and in the last movie
02:08also, we've been looking in this Basic tab. But all of these different tabs at
02:12the top are different categories of settings that you can play with in Camera Raw.
02:17So I want to go to this zig-zaggy line over here, HSL/Grayscale. HSL stands for
02:24Hue, Saturation, Luminance. In this tab, it's like we have a better version of
02:29Hue, Saturation. Let's say, for example, we want to adjust the color of her
02:33jacket that's kind of a blue.
02:35So if we grab the Blues slider, when we're looking at the Hue tab here, then we
02:39could make it a little bit more cyan, or we could make it a little bit more
02:43purple. Likewise, we can go ahead and click on Magentas, to change the tone of her mittens.
02:50Now the color there is not as intense, so it's not as drastic of change. But if
02:55we take the Magentas slider over the left, then now we have a purple jacket and
02:59purple mittens. So essentially then, each of these sliders are saying what
03:03color do you want this color to be?
03:05So for Reds, it's saying what color do you want the Reds to be? Now you notice
03:08that we don't have the same controls with Hue, Saturation, in other words, you
03:12can't make Magentas Greens, but we can move them and keep it a very believable change.
03:19Next, let's go over to the Saturation tab. Again, it's asking you what do you
03:22want the Saturation to be for each of these color values. So if we want to
03:26bring out the intensity at the Purples, then we can drag Purples to the right.
03:30So we've made it more saturated, same thing with Magentas, we can make those
03:33mittens a little bit more saturated or desaturated, if we wanted to.
03:37Finally, we can go over to the Luminance tab and play with the brightness of
03:41each color. So if we want to darken the Purples a little bit so it's little bit
03:46deeper of a purple, we can drag that to the left; if we want to brighten it up,
03:49we can drag it to the right. Same thing with Magentas or any other color.
03:53Now as I mentioned in the last chapter, I'm a big fan of the Hue, Saturation
03:56Effect, but I'm even a bigger fan of the HSL/Grayscale area here in the Camera Raw.
04:01I love how it's more visual. It's easier to see what you're doing.
04:06It's laid out in a little bit more organized way, and for whatever reason the
04:10results just end up, usually looking better or at least that's been my experience.
04:14Another thing we could do in this HSL/Grayscale tab is click Convert to
04:18Grayscale. Then we could adjust how these colors convert to gray. So let's say
04:24the Purples or the Blues, her jacket was blue, for example, we can make these
04:28areas brighter or darker. Basically, that will play with our conversion to
04:31Grayscale, almost like the black and white effect in Photoshop, if you're
04:34familiar with that.
04:35Now I should also point out over here on this tab, we have a Tone Curve, it's
04:39like having Curves built into Camera Raw here. You could use Parametric where
04:44you're using the triangles at the bottom kind of like Levels, or you can go to
04:47Point and you could actually have a curve just like curve. So, that
04:51functionality is built into Camera Raw also.
04:53Now in the latest version of Camera Raw 5.0, the version that ships with After
04:57Effects CS4, we have some new image editing features here that allow us to do
05:01some really cool things that we can't do in After Effects.
05:04As I mentioned in the first movie in this chapter, that's really one of the
05:07things that makes Camera Raw so viable, and such a great asset to use that with
05:11After Effects. So we're going to look at that in the next movie.
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Editing images using Camera Raw
00:00In this movie we are going to look at doing some more advanced image editing
00:04using Camera Raw. Now almost everything we are going to be doing here can be
00:08done in Photoshop, but I think you'll find that it's usually much easier just
00:12to do a quick edit like this in Camera Raw.
00:15So we are going to import Car by the Potomac from the Images folder, in the
00:18Media folder, in the Exercise Files folder. I'm just going to drag this to
00:21the After Effects icon or alternatively, you could just import this as a same way
00:24you would import any other piece of footage in After Effects and it will
00:27automatically open up in Camera Raw.
00:29Look at the footage of this car next to the Potomac River in Washington DC.
00:32I'm actually going to click once to zoom in here a little bit, and what we are
00:37going to do is remove this car. We are going to do that by using one of the
00:40tools up here at the top.
00:41Camera Raw 5 introduced a lot of cool new tools up here. Some of them, we'll
00:46just kind of briefly touch on, but there is a lot of power here. If you just
00:49hover your mouse over it, you get tool tips, you could see that there is a
00:52Graduated Filter, and Adjustment Brush, Red Eye Removal, Spot Removal, you
00:56could Straighten images, Crop them and a few other things here, really powerful stuff.
01:00So I'm going to select this Spot Removal to get rid of this car. What I'm going
01:04to do is I'm going to go into the center of the blemish in this case, the car,
01:07I'm going to click-and-drag away until the circle encompasses the blemish
01:12entirely. That looks good.
01:15Now once I have done that, it's going to automatically make another circle up
01:19here, and so the red circle, the initial one we have drawn, determines where
01:23the blemish is. The green one determines where the information will come from
01:29to remove the blemish.
01:30So you can grab this circle on the right, and move it around if we don't think
01:33Camera Raw has done a good enough job of guessing. To remove these circles go
01:37over to the right side of Camera Raw and uncheck Show Overlay. So it did a
01:41pretty good job. But I'm going to turn the Overlay back on. I think I'm going
01:45to click-and-drag this little screen circle up just a little bit. That's going
01:49to lower the cloned area. That was a little bit overboard. Probably you need to
01:55zoom in a little bit. You do that by holding the Command key and the Spacebar
01:58or the Ctrl key and the Spacebar on the PC, zoom in just a little bit, and then
02:02I think we'll have a little bit better time making fine changes here, and
02:07indeed that was a fine change. Okay, so that's looking okay.
02:10For now we probably could go back and tweak that little bit, we can play with
02:13the radius of the Healed area. You can actually change the type from Heal or
02:18just a basic Clone. We also just the Opacity there, but I think this looks good
02:23for now. I'm not super happy with the edges this area right here and this area
02:27right here, not super believable but again they are very small blemishes and if
02:31you weren't looking for it, you might not notice.
02:33Now another one of the interesting features here, at the top in Camera Raw is
02:37this Targeted Adjustment tool, if you are familiar with Photoshop a lot of the
02:41new effects offer this functionality which allow you basically just to go into
02:45your image, and just click-and-drag anywhere to make different type of adjustments.
02:49So, if I click and hold this down, then I can choose what I want to adjust.
02:53So let's say I want to adjust a color's hue. We looked at how to do this in the
02:57last movie by going to HSL/Grayscale. But when you are using the Targeted
03:01Adjustment tool you can just go in here, and let's say this color of this
03:05grass. I'm not sure if Camera Raw is going to see this as a yellow or a green
03:08whatever, I don't care. So I'm just going to click-and-drag to the left, and to
03:12the right, to change it's Hue.
03:14Now you could see these trees in the background are basically the same hue as
03:18this grass, so they are changing as well. So if I want a more country pasture
03:22type field, I can drag this a little left or if I want a rich vibrant field, I
03:27can add some blue, which makes the grass look a little bit more green.
03:31Likewise, I can click on the water, and change that hue, it's a very faint hue
03:35though, it's almost white, so we are not seeing that much of an intense change.
03:39Also notice while I'm clicking-and- dragging Blues is changing mostly, but there
03:43is also some Aquas in here and that's changing a little bit as well, but not as
03:46much as the Blues. That is awesome!
03:49We could also change the Target Adjustment tool to change Saturation. So we can
03:53click-and-drag to the left to de- saturate the grass, drag it to the right to
03:57saturate it, same thing with the river here. We could also do the same thing
04:01with Luminance or the Parametric Curve. So with that curve that we were looking
04:05at earlier in the last movie, again we can make things brighter or darker.
04:09So if we click on the river and drag to the right, we can make the river
04:13brighter. We can drag it to the left, to make the river and all the tones like
04:17the river, darker as well.
04:19So we have all these adjustments. We have Red Eye Removal, we have a Spot
04:22Healing, stuff that we really don't have in After Effects. When adjusting
04:26Curves or adjusting hue saturation in After Effects, you can't just
04:29click-and-drag on something to change it, but you can here. So these are some
04:33of the many reasons why I say it really pays to learn Camera Raw and use it
04:36with After Effects.
04:37Now one other thing that I want to show you very briefly is the new Adjustment
04:41Brush. We are going to click here, and I'm going to click in these trees over
04:44here, I'm going to click-and-drag, again what that's going to do with add a
04:47little point here, and then we could adjust that point.
04:50So we can adjust the exposure for that pointer, actually the pixels around that
04:54point, or just the Brightness, or Contrast or Saturation for just that point,
04:59just that area. So before CS4, all the adjustments in Camera Raw applied to the
05:04entire image. And now that's just not the case. We can make these little
05:07adjustments with the Adjustment Brush, and we can even adjust the Size, and the
05:11Feather, and the Flow and the Density, all that kind of stuff of these little points,
05:14and thereby make more custom fine-tuned, localized adjustments.
05:20Camera Raw really is a wonderful thing!
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Understanding Camera Raw "sidecar" files
00:00As I mentioned in the beginning of this chapter, Camera Raw is completely
00:04non-destructive. So that might lead you to ask well then how are those changes
00:09that we are making being saved? Well, the way that Camera Raw saves data is by
00:14putting it in the Metadata of the file.
00:16Now if the file will not store the Metadata like JPEG will store Metadata for
00:21example, but some types of images like CR2 won't store the type of Metadata
00:25that Camera Raw wants to store in it.
00:27So what a Camera Raw will do is create something called a Sidecar file that's
00:31this XMP file that we are seeing here in this folder. XMP is kind of like
00:36Adobe's brand of Metadata. If I just hit the Spacebar here I'm on Mac OS 10.5
00:42or higher, if you're on PC, you could open this up in the Text Editor real quick.
00:45Basically, we have all this information, all the Camera Raw data stored in this
00:50text file. So when we open up this girl in the snow.CR2, it's going to look at
00:55girl in the snow.xmp to see how we've changed it.
00:59Now you might remember if I open this up in Camera Raw here, earlier in this
01:03chapter we edited this and made it brighter. However, if I close out Camera
01:08Raw, go back to the exercise files, I'm going to actually delete this XMP file,
01:13so you will not have it in your exercise files when you go to open this up and
01:18adjust this. So if I open it up now into Camera Raw, we'll see that it's back
01:24to its original darker state.
01:27So remember this as you transferring Camera Raw files, you'll also want to
01:31transfer the XMP Metadata files, if you want this CR2 files, or wherever your
01:35raw file format is to look the same. Likewise, if you totally destroy an image
01:40in Camera Raw, all you have to do is delete that XMP file to clear out the
01:44Metadata and start fresh.
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5. Blending Layers and Compositing
Using lights to aid compositing
00:01Back in Chapter 3, we looked at compositing little bit when we talked about the
00:05Levels effect. In this chapter we're going to dig a little bit deeper into compositing.
00:11In this movie we're going to look at how to use lights to help us,= when we're
00:15compositing. Throughout this chapter I'm going to stress one simple concept,
00:19and that is, if you get all the elements that you're trying to
00:22composite to have similar attributes, then they will look more like they belong in the same scene.
00:28For the next few movies, we're going to be using the subway scene I created,
00:31that we looked at in After Effects CS4 Essential Training on lynda.com.
00:36Let's see if I can give you a little preview what this looks like.
00:39It's me kind of sitting on a subway here, and then there is trees moving in the
00:43background. These are all separate elements, there is a movie playing that's
00:47basically my wife was holding a camera out the window, and that's where we get
00:51these bushes from, and then we have some green screen footage of me here, then
00:55you could see here in the thumbnail on the Project panel, what that looked like.
00:59Me in front of a green screen.
01:00Keyed that out and then we have a CG render of a subway. As you can see at this
01:05point it looks pretty fake. So, let's go ahead and create light. What I'm going
01:09to do is go and right-click somewhere here in a blank area of the Timeline.
01:13Alternatively you can go to the Layer menu at the top and select New > Light.
01:17I'm just going to like right-click somewhere around here, select New > Light.
01:22Now, I'm going to create a Spotlight, and I'm going leave these settings at
01:25the defaults for second, go ahead and click OK. Now, obviously this is not good.
01:30This is overdoing it. I'm just kind of rearranging the order here. I like to have
01:34my Cameras on top in my Timeline for whatever reason. It's just kind of a weird quirk of mine.
01:39As I'm going to go over here, put my cursor over the blue arrow, that's the
01:42Z-axis, and click-and-drag up which will pull the light outward a little bit.
01:48Now, I do like this vignetting I'm getting around the edges. It does seem
01:52to pull everything in together, but it's a little intense.
01:55So, I'm going to open up my Lighting settings here and let's go into the Light
01:59Options. I want to increase the Cone Angle, so it gets a little bit wider and
02:05make sure that our Cone Feather's all the way up at 100%.
02:07Now, what I also want to do is tint this just a little bit. So I'm going to
02:10click on the color swatch. I maybe make this a little bit more of a warm tone,
02:14kind of like orangish yellow. Then take this over to the right just a little bit.
02:19So, this tinted with about that color right there.
02:22You don't want to be too intense because any subtle change that you make would
02:25be very intense when it's put in front of a light. So, I'm going to go ahead
02:29and click OK. You see a significant difference there, even though we change
02:32this color swatch very slightly.
02:34So, now what we've done is that we've tinted the entire image with one color.
02:41We've kind of brought everything together because this vignette applies to
02:44everything. Now, one of the good things that I like to do when I have CG
02:48Renders, one of the things that I've noticed, a little trick that I use, is
02:51that when you have just kind of random shadows, it just kind of works.
02:55In real life that's the way it is. If you'll look around the room that you're in
02:58right now, you'll see just kind of random shadows all over the place.
03:02That's what makes it look believable.
03:04So, in real life this area next to my body would probably be in shadow, maybe
03:08from the bench in font of it, maybe from my legs or whatever, then there'd also
03:12probably be shadows conceivably up here.
03:15So the shadows again tie everything together and make it look more believable
03:19as a composite. Next we're going to add even more to this effect by using
03:22something called an adjustment layer.
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Working with adjustment layers
00:00Coming up in just a bit, we are going to look at how to use adjustment layers
00:03for compositing. But first let's just talk about what an adjustment layer is and how it works.
00:07Now you can create an adjustment layer in the same way you created a light.
00:11You can go to the Layer menu and select New > Adjustment Layer, or you could
00:15right-click in some blank area of the Timeline panel and select New > Adjustment Layer.
00:22Now if you are familiar with Photoshop, adjustment layers here work the same way.
00:26Basically, anything applied to the adjustment layer affects everything
00:30beneath the layer, in other words all layers beneath it.
00:32So let's say for example, I added the Tint Effect, do this quick search on that
00:37here and apply that to my adjustment layer. You'll notice that everything that
00:41I'm doing to this Tint effect affects everything beneath the Tint. Let me just
00:47switch that up just a little bit here.
00:50So everything beneath the adjustment layer is tinted. Now if I drag this layer
00:55beneath the Green Screen Footage. Now the green screen footage wouldn't be
01:00tinted, but all the layers below them would be. Drag it below the subway that
01:04only the background would be tinted red.
01:06So again adjustment layers adjust everything beneath them. Let's start this
01:11with a different effect, just so we get the feel of what these can do here.
01:14I'll apply for example, let's Fast Blur. I blur this. Everything beneath it is
01:21blurred. Probably got the hang of it by now. I'm just going to delete Fast Blur.
01:25I want to show you one other trick that doesn't really have much to do
01:27with compositing but it's kind of a cool trick nonetheless.
01:30There is an effect called Transform. I'm going to apply the Transform effect to
01:35the adjustment layer. In our first blush, this Transform effect seems really
01:39pointless, because most of these values that you're seeing the Transform
01:41effect, you get with the regular layer. So like position, Anchor Point, scale,
01:45Rotation, Opacity, all these things are just regular layer transforms.
01:50However, if you apply them to an adjustment layer sometime you can get out of
01:55pre-composing. So let's see for example, you wanted to do a fade out. You could
02:00just create an adjustment layer and fade out the opacity of the adjustment
02:04layer and fade everything out without having to pre-compose.
02:07Likewise, if you wanted to rotate everything or scale everything, you can do
02:12that with an adjustment layer. Now an adjustment layer as you can imagine
02:17because you apply stuff to the adjustment layer and it effects everything
02:19beneath it become very helpful when compositing. As we mentioned in the last
02:23movie, the more we can get every element in our composition to share the same
02:28attributes, the more that it will look like they belong together.
02:32So in the next movie, we'll continue this discussion looking at how we could
02:34use adjustment layer specifically for compositing.
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Using adjustment layers in compositing
00:00Continuing where we left off in the last movie, we have the Subway project here
00:04with an adjustment layer already created for us and we are going to use this
00:08adjustment layer to bring all these elements together with the same color adjustment.
00:12So I'm going to apply the Color Balance effect to this. Not Color Balance
00:17(HLS), just regular Color Balance. Apply that to the adjustment layer and let's
00:22play with these settings a little bit.
00:23Now this is definitely an artistic choice, so definitely don't consider this to
00:27be some kind law. I want there to be kind of like this gritty feel on the
00:31subway, so maybe increase that Green Shadow Balance, maybe the Blue Shadow
00:35Balance just a little bit. I'm going to bring out some of those greens and
00:38blues. I don't want to be overwhelming here, but I kind of want this to look a
00:42little cinematic, have kind of like a movie style green tint. Try checking the
00:47Preserve Luminosity checkbox to change the luminance values here.
00:52I am kind of liking the way that's looking. I'm thinking this is a little bit
00:54too intense. So I'm going to take this back down a little bit on these settings
00:59and I'm thinking that's looking pretty good.
01:02If we clicked the Eye icon for the adjustment layer in the Timeline panel, we
01:06can see what it looks like before the effect, before the adjustment and after.
01:10Now you can kind of tell when I have the adjustment layer off, I didn't do that
01:13trick that I showed you back in chapter 3 with Levels where I went in with
01:17every single color channel individually and matched up the luminance values of
01:21the channels of each of these elements in our composite here.
01:24Now that would be the best and most thorough way to go, but in a pinch we add
01:29this adjustment layer and giving all of these elements the same color treatment
01:34definitely helps. It makes up for the lack of channel blending that we would
01:38have had with Levels, but we saved a lot of time here.
01:40So you could see the nice vignetting that we got from the lights and now the
01:44consistent color tinting that we are getting because of the Color Balance
01:47effect and again because this adjustment layer, it's applying to every layer in our composition.
01:52So we have been talking a lot about colors and blending them with lights and
01:56adjustment layers. In the next movie, we are going to look at Motion and using
02:00Motion to aid in compositing.
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Using motion and cameras in compositing
00:01So far in this chapter and actually in this entire training series, we have
00:04been focusing on compositing using Color Adjustments and this includes Lights
00:09as well. But I want to show you in this movie here that you could also use
00:13Cameras and Animation for compositing as well.
00:17Now I have here a Camera and if I go ahead and type E, E, that's E twice, you
00:23will see that I have applied a Wiggle expression, a simple Wiggle expression to
00:27the point of interest.
00:28We will talk a little bit later on in this training series about this wiggle
00:31expression and how this works, but for the time being, the only thing I want
00:35you to get out of this is that you can use Motion to aid in compositing, not
00:40exactly what I have done here.
00:41So without the Camera on, we just have the regular footage here and as we scrub
00:45in time, this dude in the video is pretty much the only thing that moves.
00:48Well also the shadow in the background moves, but there really isn't anything keyframed here.
00:53But as we turn on the Camera, with the point of interest animated, then we
00:58start to see that this kind of moves shakes a little, kind of like it would in
01:03the real world, almost like a little bump from riding a train would cause.
01:07We'll give that just a couple of seconds to render here and let's go ahead and
01:10hit 0 on the numeric keypad again to preview this. Just a little over a second,
01:15not even 2 seconds for this, but you could see as this is kind of moving around
01:19here, it's again kind of like the jiggle you would experience riding a train.
01:24And again, we are utilizing the same thing we have seen in the entire chapter,
01:27where we apply the same thing to all elements and it makes them seem to come
01:32together more. Now, if we want to get really fancy with this, we could offset
01:36all these different layers, the scenery in the background, the subway layer,
01:39the guy reading the paper, we could make them three layers and offset them in Z
01:43position and then as the camera moves around them, they will give different
01:46depth cues because they will be moving at different distances.
01:50Now we are going to see a really great example of this in our project in
01:53chapter 12, but I'm quite happy with that as it is. So I'm going to move on,
01:57show you one other trick here. I have this Light. I'm going to select the Light
02:00layer and hit the letter T, the same way you would hit T for Opacity on a regular layer.
02:05When you are selecting a Light layer, you hit the letter T and it opens up
02:07Intensity. This is essentially the brightness of the light. What I'm going to
02:11do is holding Option key down or the Alt key on the PC and click that stopwatch
02:16and then in this little text area, I'm going to create a Wiggle expression.
02:19Again, we are going to talk in detail about Wiggle expressions later. Type in
02:22Wiggle and then in the parenthesis, I'm going to type in let's say (3, 10),
02:30similar to what we have here with the camera expression and then instead of
02:34hitting Enter, just go ahead and click outside in a blank area here. That will
02:38accept the expression.
02:40What this is doing is randomizing the intensity of this light, almost as if
02:45there is lights above the seats in the subway. They are kind of flickering on
02:49and off or maybe bouncing around with the motion of the train.
02:52So let's preview this and see what it looks like. So now as it plays back, you
02:56can see that it's wiggling and everything seems to be wiggling and also the
03:01lights tend to just flicker, just ever so slightly. It's not a very intense
03:06change. It's a very subtle change, but one that definitely makes a cohesive
03:10feel throughout all these elements.
03:12So from lines, to adjustment layers, to cameras and motion, animation, there is
03:16a lot you can do to tie multiple elements in together to create a more
03:20believable composite.
03:21And we are actually going to shift gears through the rest of this chapter and
03:24we are going to look at using blend modes, also sometimes called transfer modes
03:28to help with compositing as well.
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Working with blend modes
00:00In this movie, I just want to introduce you to the concept of blend modes and
00:05give you some ideas of what they do. Now I'm talking about them here in this
00:08chapter about compositing because they really can help with Compositing, but
00:12they do all sorts of really cool designed things as well. They add a lot of
00:16pizazz for lack of a better term to your projects.
00:19Now I have here this footage from greenlayers.com. This is actually probably
00:24one of the greatest exercise files I have ever created of this puppet who pulls
00:29out a gun and shoots it and nods confidently, and then we also have this
00:35footage from detonationfilms.com.
00:37Now what I'm going to do is I'm just going to double-click this layer, so we
00:39can see it in the Layer panel and it's basically a gunshot here. I'm going to
00:45go back to the Composition panel.
00:47Now because of where the layer is positioned, the black of the detonationfilms'
00:52gunshot footage is over the puppet footage. So we are not seeing the gun here
00:56and what we need to do is get rid of that black background.
00:59Now we could use a keying effect to get rid of this, but the chances are we are
01:04going to have a hard time keeping these fine details, the smoke and the sparks
01:08and all of that. So instead, as we'll talk about how to do later on in this
01:13chapter, we simply add a blend mode, click of a button. The black goes away and
01:18now the fire here, the spark blends with the gun perfectly as if it were in the same scene.
01:25So now when we preview this together. Boom! Puppet man takes a good shot,
01:32beautiful. Even this delicate smoke comes across beautifully with blend modes.
01:37So we just save tons of time and we have a better looking result.
01:42Here is another example. We'll look at later in this chapter, Blending
01:45Textures. I have a simple black and red, green here and then I have another
01:49layer with this very interesting pattern, using the CC Kaleida effect and if I
01:55want to put this texture onto this colored background, again, I could simply
02:01change the blend mode in a click of a button and I have a very interesting
02:05background pattern now.
02:06So let's check out the next few movies on blend modes and dig a little deeper
02:10into what they can do.
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Blending objects with a black background
00:00In this movie, we are going to back up little bit and have a little bit more of
00:03an intro into how to use blend modes. Blend modes are accessed in the Timeline
00:08panel, in this dropdown underneath Mode. You will need to be in the Modes area
00:12of the Timeline panel.
00:13You might be seeing the Switches area, which looks like this, but if you click
00:17the Toggle Switches and Modes, you will switch from Switches to Modes.
00:20Now before I show you what these different modes do, we are working again with
00:23this footage from greenlayers.com that is called Puppet and also this muzzle
00:28flash from detonationfilms. Basically, it's a muzzle shot. This bright spark on
00:33a black background, that's important to keep in mind.
00:35As we click this drop-down to open up all of these blend modes, we'll see that
00:39they are mercifully divided into categories and they are kind of related to
00:43each other. They are divided by these little horizontal lines here. The
00:46category we are going to talk about in this movie is right here, starting with
00:49Add and going to Lighter Color. These modes tend to brighten the final result
00:56and to remove pure black in the top layer, in other words, the layer that you
01:00are applying the blend mode to, black will be removed.
01:04So in this case, we have a muzzle shot, shot in the dark and this works
01:08perfectly for that. So we can select a Screen for example and the black will go
01:12away and we have the Muzzle Flash.
01:14Screen is a really popular blend mode in Photoshop for things like highlights
01:19and glows. At least that's common in After Effects is the Add blend mode. This
01:24tends to create a more bright result. Now in this case, we are not really
01:28blending this Muzzle Flash on top of anything, except for the gun a little bit
01:33and you can't really see that much of difference unless you look closely at the guns.
01:36So you see Screen, it's a little bit more faded over in the front of the gun
01:39and then you go to Add and it's a little bit brighter. Now these are a little
01:43lightening modes like Color Dodge and Lighter Color, these are all great. But
01:48for my money, I get the best results from Screen and actually, I usually prefer
01:52to use Add, especially for when you are creating things like motion graphics
01:55that you want to pop and have like these really cool light effects. Add,
01:58usually works a little better.
01:59Now let's try this with another example. I'm going to right-click here in the
02:02blank area in the Timeline. I'm going to create a New>Solid, and I'll go ahead
02:06and make sure the comp size. It doesn't matter what color it is. I'm going to click OK.
02:10Let's go ahead and apply a Fractal Noise Effect to this and let's go ahead and
02:15change the Fractal type to Dynamic and let's increase the Contrast.
02:21Now the point here isn't to exactly mimic what I'm doing. The point here is
02:25just to get some high contrast, so we have some dark areas. You might also want
02:29to take down the brightness. Again, the exact texture is really not important here.
02:33Now, if we go down to the blend mode and we change this to Add, so we get rid
02:37of the black, then you can see that we have this highlighted little clouds that
02:41appear over our image. So it works not only for compositing things like the
02:46Flashes and the Sparks, but also when you are trying to blend lighter textures,
02:50clouds, fogs, smoke, that type of thing, things like Fractal Noise are great.
02:54So now that you can see what it looks like composited, you may want to take
02:58down the Brightness and the Contrast a little bit to taste and of course, we
03:03could fiddle with this a little bit more. We probably want to scale it up and
03:06take down the complexity and there's a lot, we could do to make this look a
03:09little bit better over our scene. Again, we are not trying to make this look
03:12good or anything, but I just want to show you what the results are.
03:15Many effects like Fractal Noise, like the Lens layer effect also, become much
03:19more effective when we realize that we can just apply them to other layers and
03:24then use blend modes on those layers to composite them into our scenes.
03:27In the next movie, we are going to look at how to remove light colors and
03:31we have a really good example for that. So, let's go check it out.
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Blending objects with a white background
00:01Last winter, I was out walking around, and I just happen to have my camera with me.
00:04And we heard this big crash. And there is just this massive explosion from
00:10one of the houses. And it was just this amazing thing to behold, as you could
00:14see here from the footage I captured. And actually, I'm totally fooling you. This is
00:18all just a doctored footage from a photo I took. And then also some great
00:23footage from detonationfilms.com.
00:26As you could see there is the white background from the Detonation Films
00:30footage. And then here is the simple photo that I took. Now in the same way in
00:35the last movie, we got rid of dark backgrounds or black by using blend modes,
00:40we could also get rid of light backgrounds as well. Again, imagine how
00:45difficult this would be to key out, and still keep those fine semi-transparent
00:50textures in the cloud.
00:51So if we go this area here, these are the darkening modes. Starts with Darken,
00:57ends with Darker Color, the most popular one probably being Multiply here. And
01:01all of these get rid of white and tend to darken when blending together. So if
01:05we put this explosion here on the top layer into Multiply mode, it will remove
01:10the white and then create a darkness here in the background.
01:13There is also a Levels effect applied. So to your own liking you can go and
01:17adjust the midtones. If you'd like a lighter smoke or a darker smoke, that's up
01:21to you. You can also go in and still adjust the Transparency, which creates a
01:26different effect as well.
01:27So you could use both Opacity and blend modes in conjunction with each other to
01:32achieve the results that you are looking for. So then in the final product
01:35here, I just added an adjustment layer and added a little bit of Blur. So it
01:40looked like the cheesy camera just happened to have on me at the time, didn't
01:42look like a professional shoot. Now this is just a little bit too clean, and
01:47then I also added a little bit of noise with the Noise effect. I added some Levels here.
01:51And I have also, as we talked about earlier in this chapter, I've added a
01:55camera with slight animation, a Wiggle expression. Now if I was really doing
01:59this right, what I would have done is cut up this photo in Photoshop, so that
02:03these trees in the foreground, with a different layer than these houses, and
02:07maybe even the trees in the background because realistically these would move a
02:11lot more than these trees in the background are moving. But everything is
02:14moving at the same rate of speed, which makes it seems less believable.
02:19So to minimize on giving away my digital fakery what I did is I just moved the
02:24camera slightly. So I didn't move it too much and so just made it a little bit
02:28easier to believe. But if these movements would have been a little bit more
02:30wild all over the place, it definitely would have seemed more fake than it is.
02:34But in a nutshell that's how we blend darker tones.
02:37You might want to also play with these Color Dodge and Color Burn especially,
02:43they tend to play with the saturation a little bit and tend to make some extra
02:47magic that way. So from experience Multiply and Color Burn are the most useful
02:52blend modes, certainly the ones I use most commonly in this category. And again
02:56with the lightening effects, it's probably Add, Screen and then also sometimes
03:00Color Dodge as well.
03:01I should also point out that Lighten and Darken tend to lighten and darken as
03:06the name indicates. But they are a little bit more subtle of an effect.
03:10Next, we are going to look at these Overlay blend modes, which I think are
03:14probably the most helpful blend modes to be aware of and to utilize.
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Blending textures with blend modes
00:01Perhaps the category of blend modes that I use most frequently are what I call
00:05the Overlay blend modes. You could find them, if you go to the Mode dropdown
00:09here, below the Lightening blend modes. It starts with Overlay, ends with Hard Mix.
00:13Now as we've seen previously, these Lighten blend modes remove black;
00:19the Darken blend modes remove white. But these Overlay blend modes are a little quirky.
00:24They remove 50% gray. So the gray that's perfectly in between white and black,
00:30it removes that.
00:32And also what these have a tendency to do is to brighten values that are
00:36brighter than 50% gray and darken values that are darker than 50% gray. I have
00:41here this gradient that we saw a couple movies back and then also this texture
00:45created with CC Kaleida and I want to get this kind of curtain like texture to
00:50blend in with this red and black gradient.
00:53So what I can do is go to the blend mode and select Overlay. So you can see the
00:59brightness of the texture made the bright areas brighter, and the dark areas in
01:04the texture made these areas darker, added some darkness to their red and black gradient.
01:08So again, the before and after. Now if we wanted a more subtle effect. We can
01:12choose Soft Light. So that's basically doing the same thing, but not as
01:16intensely. If we wanted a more intense effect, we can do Hard Light. So with
01:20Soft Light, the brights aren't quite as bright and darks aren't quite as dark.
01:24With Hard Light it's the opposite. The brights are brighter, and the darks are darker.
01:27Now keep in mind that you could also go back to this layer, and add a Levels
01:32effect, or a Curves effect, or what have you and bring out the brightness or
01:36the darkness or adjust the midtones and play with this as they are blended together.
01:42Now honestly, Overlay and Soft Light are the two in this category that I use
01:46most, but there is also a few other ones that are really interesting, there is
01:49Linear Light, and Vivid Light, and Pin Light and these might come in handy in
01:54different circumstances.
01:55Now Hard Mix is a little bit different. It kind of posterizes and creates a
01:59really, like it says, a Hard Mix between the colors. Let me just show you
02:04briefly what I've done here. I've made up two White Solids. The bottom White
02:08Solid, I've applied the Gradient Overlay, a Layer Style and I made that
02:13gradient black to red. And on the top layer, just made another White Solid and
02:17then I started out with the Ramp effect. There we added CC Kaleida on top of
02:21the Ramp effect and then obviously we've had the Levels that we've been kind of
02:25playing around with.
02:25But really this effect was made with the Ramp Effect and then CC Kaleida on top
02:29of it blended in, using an Overlay blend mode to the gradient behind it.
02:33So it's kind of a cool background. But not only the Overlay blend mode good for
02:36textures, but when you are just trying to combine multiple images to have a
02:40cool overlaid effect.
02:41I find that Overlay works a lot better than just say reducing the Opacity.
02:45So for me, it's like the great multi-purpose blend mode category.
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Comparing layers and frames with Difference
00:00In this movie, we are going to look at what I call the Difference blending
00:03modes. There is only two of them, Difference and Exclusion.
00:06Now we have here another beautiful photograph from Angela McEnroe and I have
00:11also at the top, this Fractal Noise layer, just a simple grayscale pattern here.
00:15Now if I open up my Blend Mode dropdown, we'll see that below the Overlay
00:20modes, there is a Difference, Classic Difference, and Exclusion. But we are
00:24going to be focusing on Difference here. Basically, Difference creates this
00:27really psychedelic effect usually. So that's the result of blending the Fractal
00:32Noise in with the photograph.
00:35If we were to use Exclusion, it's basically the same thing as Difference except
00:38blending with a little bit of gray. So you get a few little psychedelic tones
00:42in here, but a lot more gray.
00:44Now what I'm going to do is actually I'm going to turn off this Fractal Noise
00:48layer, because for the most part you probably won't be using that psychedelic
00:52look anytime soon. But there is another great benefit in using the Difference
00:56blend mode, and that is to align layers.
00:59Now this comes in handy all the time in any given workflow. Oftentimes I might
01:03get footage from a client and they might come back to me and say okay, well we
01:06did it again. After I did all this work in After Effects with it. And we
01:11started again with a slightly different camera. So the Pixel aspect ratio is
01:14little bit different, the size is little bit different, but I need it to match up exactly.
01:18So when I bring in the footage to replace it, I can't just do a simple swap and
01:22replace the footage, I've got to line them up. So I've another copy of this
01:26photo, off center here. And I'm going to change the blend mode to Difference,
01:32gives us that standard psychedelic look. But when you take a layer in
01:37Difference mode and blend it with itself, once it lines up exactly, it will
01:43turn completely black.
01:46So I know now that these two layers are exactly aligned, even if I just use the
01:50arrow keys and nudge it 1 pixel in any direction, you can tell that's it off a
01:54little bit. So if you need to be able to line up a layer or a part of a layer
02:00exactly with another object then you could simply put the copy in the
02:04Difference blend mode and as soon as it turns all black, you know that you have
02:09an exact match as far as location goes.
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Changing the color of an object
00:00The last category of blend modes that I want to look at, basically deal with
00:03taking color or hue or just saturation or just luminosity of a layer and
00:09blending it with the layer beneath it.
00:10So I have here this Fractal Noise textures what you are seeing on screen here.
00:14I also have another layer, which are just some pink squiggles on a black solid,
00:19and what I want to do is colorize, essentially paint this Fractal Noise.
00:24So what I can do is select this black solid layer and below this we have Hue,
00:29Saturation, Color, and Luminosity. These are different blend modes.
00:32If we select Hue then only the color family of the top layer will be blended
00:37beneath changing the hue of the color below it. However, there is only black
00:43and white below it so Hue doesn't do much in this case. Saturation is the same
00:47thing. We could increase the saturation of black and white all day and it's
00:51still just going to be black and white. Saturation is a value of color, not of gray.
00:55Now what Luminosity does is it just takes the brightness of the layer on
00:59top and blends it with the brightness of what's on bottom. Not too exciting in this case.
01:04But if I take the results to Color, what it's done is taking the color of the
01:09top layer, it get rids of black because there's not really any color values, no
01:12hues in black. And the top layer, the colors are blended into this Fractal
01:17Noise making it look like we kind of painted on this Fractal Noise you see that
01:22the Color blend mode is really good with preserving the shadows and the
01:26highlights of the layer on bottom. So that makes it so that it looks like we
01:31kind of painted in crevices and cracks and what not.
01:34If the result is a little too intense for you still, you can cut back down the
01:37Opacity, dial that back a little bit and make this blend in a little bit more.
01:41In this case we probably want to make the blue-pink squiggle on its own layer,
01:46and adjust that independently because green and red are looking a little bit
01:49more believable and blue is still looking a little garish and overdone. I love
01:54how especially with these reds, it looks like there is just real paint wrapping
01:58around this texture.
02:00But in reality there is nothing to wrap around, it's just a simple pattern made
02:03with Fractal Noise. It's great for colorizing black and white footage, but not
02:07only that. If you had something in a shot that you weren't pleased with, if
02:11your certain color is sticking out to you, you could colorize it this way.
02:14It's not something that you will use probably in every project that you do but
02:17it's a good one to kind of keep in the back of your mind in case something like this ever comes up.
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6. Advanced Effects
Controlling effects with other layers
00:00We are now going to switch gears a little bit and look at some advanced
00:03features of effects, advanced tips and tricks. In this movie we are going to
00:07look at controlling properties in one effect with another layer.
00:11Now in this composition here, I have some precomposed footage. It's actually
00:16just a simple solid layer with the Wave World effect applied to it. So that's
00:21basically what it looks like. And we have precomposed it, which you will find
00:24that you will have to do often using layers as controllers for effects.
00:28I'm just going to turn off the visibility of this Precomp. We don't need that
00:32visibility on. After Effects can still see it.
00:35We also have this blue solid layer. Now we are going to apply the Card Dance
00:38Effect to this blue solid layer. The Card Dance Effect basically turns any
00:43layer into a series of cards. In order to see in this action, we need to go
00:46over here to the Effect Controls panel for the Card Dance Effect. And let's
00:49change Gradient Layer 1 to Precomp waves. These Gradient Layer 1 and Gradient
00:55Layer 2 dropdowns control which other layers will be the controllers for this
01:00effect. Now nothing happens initially. We have basically only told that we want
01:04to control this effect with this Precomp waves layer.
01:07So now what we need to do is come down here to one of these attributes like X
01:12position, Z position, Rotation Scale, or whatever. And then control it with
01:16this Gradient Layer, and I don't want you to get hung up on Card Dance.
01:19My point here isn't to show you this effect. It's to show you what you can do by
01:24using other layers as controllers. So in this case I'm going to the Z position
01:28dropdown and I'm going to change the source to one of these values. The values
01:33with 1s after them refer to Gradient Layer 1, and the values with 2 refer to Gradient Layer 2.
01:41So what I want to do is use the Intensity, or in other words the luminance of
01:44Gradient Layer 1. So I'm going to select Intensity 1 and now if I go and play
01:49this back, you will see that we kind of have like this pond ripple, these cards
01:53are moving a little bit. But the problem is that we don't have enough cards.
01:56And we don't have enough cards because the cards are too big.
01:59We are going to change that in just a second. But before I do, go and open
02:02Camera Position and let's go ahead and open or adjust X Rotation. And as we do,
02:07you will see that this is actually a series of 3D cards. That looks pretty
02:13awesome. And as we move this, you will see that they are actually moving in Z
02:18space based on the brightness or luminance of the pond ripple we have in the
02:22pond Precomp waves.
02:24Notice this more clearly, I'm going to go up to Rows and Columns, this controls
02:27the number of rows of cards and also the number of columns of cards. So I'm
02:32going to take both of these numbers to about 50 or 60. I want this to be clear
02:36in detail so I can see what's going on. But if you take it up too far, you are
02:40going to slow down your system depending on the machine you are on. If your
02:43system can hack 100 rows and 100 columns then by all means, do it, it would look better.
02:47But now as I move this around, you will see that we have this 3D pond ripple
02:53created by the Card Dance Effect using the Precomp waves as the controller
02:58layer. It's pretty awesome. Now this effect also allows you to use other maps
03:03like this Precomp waves layer to control all the properties, like Scale. So I'm
03:08going to open up X Scale and change the source to Intensity 1, change Y Scale
03:13source to Intensity 1. So now they are going to be scaling according to their
03:18brightness as well. And also this isn't really part of the trick here.
03:22But I'm going to go to the Camera System dropdown and change Camera System to
03:25the Comp Camera. And that way I could use the composition camera with this new
03:30Unified Camera tool to click in here and move this around or I could
03:34right-click and zoom in and out. Or I could use the middle mouse button and
03:40move up and down. Actually this is opening my spotlight. And I could click the
03:43left mouse button to rotate around and see these a little bit better. So you
03:48could see the areas where the pond ripples were dark making the cards a little
03:52bit smaller and the bright area where the gradient is makes the cards a little bit bigger.
03:58So again, we can preview this. We have this very interesting effect here. All
04:05these different cards moving and scaling in 3D based on the brightness of
04:12another layer. Now that's just for the Card Dance effect but if you use other
04:15effects like Foam and Shatter. They also can take in and utilize other layers
04:21as controllers. Remember again if you have a black and white layer like this
04:26Precomp waves, you might need to precompose it in order for After Effects to
04:31use it as a controller.
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Bringing photos to life with displacement
00:00In this movie we are going to kind of build on what we learned in the last
00:04movie where we learned to how to use layers as controllers. And we are going to
00:08use a Displacement Map to take a photo, this photo actually and bring it to
00:13life like this. So it makes it seem like we are kind of panning through the
00:16camera but in actuality this is just a simple photo that's being displaced with
00:21a map that we'll make.
00:22So our journey here actually begins in Photoshop. We are going to start with
00:26the Angela in the snow.jpg and I'm going to first double-click the background
00:31to unlock it. And let's go ahead and call this layer Angela. And next I'll drag
00:36this layer to then create a new layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel.
00:40And I want my Angela layer to be on top, so I'm going to drag that on top, even
00:43though they are both the same thing right now. Double-click Angela copy and I'm
00:47going to call this layer DIS Angela. This will be the Displacement Map that we make.
00:52Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to paint over this DIS Angela layer, so
00:56I'm going to take the Opacity of this layer, just click on the word Opacity and
01:00drag it to the left, make that layer about 28% or so, 27% is fine. And then I'm
01:05going to click this little padlock icon to lock the layer. That way we can't
01:09make any changes on it, paint on it accidentally, or what have you. Then I'm
01:12going to select this DIS Angela layer. I'm going to hit the letter D as in
01:16David on the keyboard, and then I'm going to push Option+Delete on the Mac or
01:20Alt+Backspace on the PC to fill this background layer with black.
01:25You see what we are going to do here is we are going to use the color black in
01:29After Effects to tell the Displacement Map effect which we are going to use,
01:33which pixels are in the background and white will tell After Effects which
01:38pixels are in the foreground. So now our Displacement Map is pure black,
01:43everything is the background.
01:44Next, I'm going to select the Brush tool. I'm going to right-click on my
01:47document and I'll select this 19-pixel brush. Go ahead and click outside and
01:53this is a little bit too small, so I'm going to increase the size of that brush
01:57using the right bracket key. And I'm also going to decrease the hardness of the
02:02brush by holding Shift+Left bracket key.
02:05So if you are just using the bracket keys, next to letter P on your keyboard,
02:10the left bracket key will decrease the size and the right bracket key will
02:13increase the size. And adding Shift to the mix will respectively decrease and
02:18increase the hardness.
02:19I am also going to make sure my Opacity is really low here. We won't make very
02:22subtle changes. Next, I'm going to press the letter X on my keyboard to flip
02:27the foreground and background color, so that white is my new foreground color.
02:31So I'm going to click on the girl's nose here, I'm going to keep clicking and
02:34clicking and clicking and clicking until this becomes pure white. She looks a
02:38little bit like Rudolph with the white nose.
02:41The reason why we are doing that is because, for me at least, that gives me a
02:44reference that this is the brightest point. This is probably the point that's
02:48closest to the camera. So again, the brighter we make things, the closer they
02:52are going to appear towards the camera.
02:54So we want all this background stuff to be in the background and this white
02:59nose is going to be the foremost foreground thing. So I might want a little bit
03:03of white on some of these background trees here. Just to make them come up a
03:09little bit from the distance. Again, as you can see this is nowhere near the
03:13brightness of her nose, so these will still very much be in the background but
03:17not completely totally in the background. They will appear to be a little bit
03:22in front of these trees behind them, which is good.
03:25And then we want to just kind of paint over. Actually I'm going to use the
03:28right bracket key to make this little bit bigger. But we are kind of want to
03:30paint her and again the whiter she is with paint, the more in the foreground
03:36she is going to be. And as we are working with this, you might look at her
03:38scarf, for example, and her scarf will probably be more white than say her neck
03:43because it's in front of her neck.
03:45In this case you might want to turn off the visibility of the Angela layer just
03:49to check your Displacement Map and make sure everything is okay. I'm not going
03:52to take the time to paint this entire Displacement Map. I already have one as
03:56set out for you here, Angela in the snow.psd.
03:59So here is kind of like what the final product would look like, I made a little
04:02bit of white paint you probably can't see it on your screen but I made a little
04:05bit of white paint on the bottom so the ground would appear to be closer than
04:09the background trees. Obviously, I have a little bit of white with the trees
04:13here and notice that her neck is a little bit darker than her chin.
04:19So that her neck kind of goes back a little bit. Her nose is still the
04:22brightest spot on the face, it's kind of subtle but you can see that's the
04:25brightest point and then her hand also comes out a little bit more than the
04:30area of her jacket back there. And this shoulder is a little bit brighter than
04:34this part of her chest. And so everything is kind of aligned up so that the
04:38brightest points are in the foreground.
04:40Next thing you want to do is save this, then hop on over to After Effects. And
04:46when you go to the Project panel, you can double-click to import. Go into the
04:49PSDs folder, if that's where you choose to save it or wherever you save your
04:52document there. And make sure you want to save it as a PSD file. Select the PSD
04:56file and then import it as Composition. Not as Composition Cropped layers, in
05:00this case you want to import as a Composition.
05:03This is because the Displacement Map effect that we are going to use looks at
05:06the pixel boundaries of both the Displacement Map and the layer. So if your
05:11Displacement Map is slightly off in pixels from your regular layer, they will
05:16not match up when you are displacing them. So choose Composition to be safe.
05:21Next you want to click Open, I have already done that so I'm just going to go
05:24ahead and hit Cancel here. What that will do is it will create a composition
05:27for you and it will also make a folder with the two layers in that PSD file, in
05:32that folder. Now if your Opacity was turned down in your PSD file, you will
05:36want to take the Angela layer and take the Opacity back up to 100%. You could
05:40also take off the Visibility of the DIS Angela layer, the displacement layer,
05:43as we don't need that anymore. Next, you want to apply a new instance to this
05:46Displacement Map effect and turn off the old one that I have already animated,
05:49just so I can set this up and show you how it goes.
05:52The first thing you want to do here is take the Displacement Map and change it
05:55from Angela, which basically means that this layer is just displacing itself.
05:58Change it to DIS Angela, the Displacement Map that we created. And actually, we
06:03are going to resize so we could see what this is all saying. Use For Horizontal
06:06Displacement, we are going to use the Luminance, in other words the brightness
06:09of the Displacement Map. So we'll go ahead and click on Luminance and we'll
06:12skip this Max Horizontal Displacement for now.
06:14Go to Use For Vertical Displacement, well, we don't want to move this thing up
06:17and down. We just want to move it left and right. So I'm going take Vertical
06:20Displacement off. Now I'm going to Max Vertical Displacement to 0. And just as
06:26an option you can check, Wrap pixels around. What this wrap pixels around
06:30option will do is-- let's say we are displacing this to the right. All the
06:34pixels are moving to the right. Well along the left edge there is going to be a hole there.
06:38So what this is going to do is wrap the pixels from the right edge back over
06:42along the left edge. So it's less of a hole there. That's not a permanent
06:45perfect solution but it will get the job done in a pinch.
06:48So what we are going to do now is grab this Max Horizontal Displacement value
06:53and as we drag it to the right and left, you can see that we have actually
06:58brought this image to life. We didn't have to cut it up in Photoshop, we didn't
07:03have to do anything much to it other than just paint that Displacement Map.
07:06We are getting some pretty realistic distortions here, look at her hair, the way
07:09her head tilts and moves. Now beware if you go too crazy you are going to get
07:14some weird artifacts and it's just not going to look quite right even if you
07:17don't get any weird artifacts, you will start bending things in a weird way.
07:22It doesn't look too pleasing, so be careful about that.
07:24Now if you find that your map is a little messed up, what you can do is go back
07:28to Photoshop and maybe paint some or make some changes. Then go back to After
07:33Effects, and in your Project panel open up the folder, right-click on one of
07:37the layers. So you can't right-click on the folder, you can't right-click on
07:40the comp, right-click on one of the PSD layers in the folder and select Reload
07:45Footage once you have saved your changes in Photoshop.
07:48So all this left now, I'm just going to go ahead and delete this Displacement
07:52Map 2 and turn on my original Displacement Map. I animated this from positive
07:5843 and then I hit the End to go to end of my composition. And animate it to
08:03negative 60. So once we play that, we have again a fairly believable result.
08:09I'm going to hit 0 on the numeric keypad to do a RAM preview. And once it's
08:13done, again we have this fairly realistic move here.
08:15Again, we have her scarf in front of her neck which looks cool, even our chin
08:19is in front of her neck just based on how much they are moving. The hand is in
08:23front of the rest of the jacket. These folds on her coat are turning in a very
08:27organic, realistic way. The background is moving, the background trees are
08:31moving more than this tree because we made it a little bit lighter.
08:34So we have a nice result here and if we were making a bunch of quick cuts in a
08:38video that this was going to be a part of then it would look very believable
08:41like we went out and took a photo or a still life or that cool Matrix type
08:45effect where we kind of moving the camera in 3D space while life is frozen.
08:50I have also always wanted to use this in a documentary, adding this to the
08:54Ken Burns effect. Kind of a cool trick to keep in your arsenal. Keep that at
08:57the back of your mind as you are doing your work.
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Understanding the importance of effect order
00:00The order in which effects are applied dramatically influences the final result
00:06that you get. In this project I have just a simple orange solid and I have a
00:09few effects that I have applied. Let's say we apply a Twirl Effect, I have
00:13already gone ahead and applied this. I turn it on by clicking the fx icon here.
00:17And it kind of swirls around a little bit. I'm going to turn the Visibility
00:21back off. And we also have a Ramp effect, which is simple black to white
00:24gradient. But the order in which we apply these effects really determines what
00:29the final result looks like.
00:30If we apply Twirl first and then Ramp, that's how this works. The effect on top
00:35is applied first and the effects at the bottom of this are applied afterwards.
00:40Then basically the layer is Twirled and then the Ramp effect is applied. If we
00:45grab the Ramp effect and drag it and put it on top, then it will be a much
00:50different result. Because then we have basically this Ramp effect and we are twirling the Ramp.
00:56So if I open up Twirl and adjust this a little bit so we could see kind of
00:59what's going on more. I hold the Shift key to make this happen a little bit
01:02faster. It's taking this gradient and wrapping this around, which again has a
01:07much different result than Twirling it and then adding Ramp afterwards.
01:12Let's apply another effect, I'm going to take off Ramp and I'll apply the Grid
01:16effect. Now Grid completely replaces whatever it's applied to. So even though
01:20we have applied Twirl or even Ramp, it doesn't matter, it only sees Grid.
01:25Because Grid replaces everything.
01:27However, if we place Grid initially in the stack then basically what's going to
01:32happen as we apply Twirl afterwards and so we are twirling the Grid. We could
01:37also apply a Ramp after the Twirl or we can just remove Twirl and have a Ramp over the Grid.
01:42So you can see we can keep stacking effects on top of each other to get really
01:46interesting results. But the order in which they are stacked up here in the
01:51Effect Controls panel makes a big difference. So if you are not getting what
01:54you are looking for, try rearranging the effects in the Effect Controls panel.
01:58And again, remember it's kind of backwards. The ones that you apply first,
02:02apply at the top. And those are the ones that After Effects is going to apply
02:05first in the render order and then the ones below it are going to come afterwards.
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Creating animation presets
00:00From my experience in the After Effects world, one of the most
00:02under-appreciated features is the ability to create animation presets and
00:06that's what we are going to look at in this movie.
00:07I have created this kind of weird psychedelic pattern from a few effects.
00:13Let me show you where I'm going here. I have this Cell Pattern effect. I should take off
00:16the visibility of all those effects. I have plain solid. I have the Cell
00:19Pattern effect, add to that the Colorama effect and I use the Mossy color preset
00:25in the Output Cycle area to give it that color. And then finally, I have a
00:29four-color gradient that gives it just a little variation and color at the
00:32edges. After I select the layer, I'll hit the letter U. I see that I have
00:36actually animated the evolution property of the Cell Pattern effect. I have two
00:40keyframes here. And I have also added the Wiggle expression to 4 color points
00:45and the 4 color gradient.
00:46Now what we are going to do with this animation preset is save this information
00:50so that we can recall it any time. Let me show you how this works, I'm going to
00:54go back up to the Effect Controls panel. I'm going to select the top effect,
00:57Cell Pattern, hold the Shift key for color gradient and that will select all
01:01the effects in between. You can also hold the Command key or the Ctrl key on
01:05the PC to select effects that are not selected. So if we didn't want to save
01:08Colorama, we could just go ahead and Command or Ctrl-click it.
01:12But I actually do want to save this result with all these effects. So with
01:15these effects selected, I'm going to go to the Animation menu at the top and
01:18select Save Animation Preset. Next, I'm going to navigate to the Presets folder
01:24in the After Effects folder. I'm going to call this chads weird pattern and go
01:30ahead and click Save there. Now it's created an .ffx file. That is the file
01:35extension for After Effects animation presets. You can reuse those at any time
01:40they are cross-platformed. You can trade them to your buddies that use PCs or Macs.
01:44It doesn't matter.
01:45And this is how you recall them, I'm going to click and make a new comp here.
01:49And what I use to create this was an NTSC DV preset but with a square pixel
01:54aspect ratio, so that's what I have here. I'm going to click OK. And I'll just
01:58make a new solid, Command+Y or Ctrl+Y on the Mac. Make sure it's comp size but
02:02doesn't matter what color. And then with this layer selected, go up to the
02:05Animation menu and select Apply Animation Preset. Navigate to the FFX file you
02:10just made, click Open, and there you have it. The same exact preset you just
02:15created applied, your keyframes are still intact, your expressions even are
02:20still intact, everything was saved.
02:22So this is a really great way for you motion graphics designers, if that's what
02:25you do or whatever else you do to be able to create a library of your own full
02:30of presets and patterns, backgrounds, maybe you got some lightning or gunfire
02:35particles, whatever. You can create them and then save them for later use using Animation Presets.
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7. Making Particles
What are particles?
00:01A Particle System is basically where the computer takes one image, typically a
00:05tiny object, maybe a circle or square, or a star, an airplane, or anything, and
00:10clones it many times, sometimes hundreds or thousand of times. The way these
00:15tiny objects behave during the animation, the way they move, or grow, or get
00:19colorized, or do other things, it causes them to create interesting visual effects.
00:24Now you don't manipulate each tiny little piece. You actually just manipulate
00:29the particle generator and the transformations the particles undergo during
00:33the animation. This gives you the ability to generate nearly an infinite number
00:38of complex effects. Now Particle Systems are great for creating things like
00:42explosions, sparkles, or water smoke, weather effects, animated backgrounds, anything.
00:48Now we're going to look at some video footage from Detonation Films. This is
00:52real world footage, but this is kind of like the reference material. This is
00:56the type of stuff that we're trying to emulate when we're using Particle Systems.
01:01Say for example, this explosion, the initial explosion, that would be a
01:05particle, and then also the sparks would be different particles, and then the
01:10smoke trails would be particles as well. Here we have these muzzle flashes. All
01:14the components of these muzzle flashes would also be considered particles. The
01:19sparks, the initial burst, the smoke. Same thing with the explosion here.
01:23The fire would be a system of particles. The smoke would be another system of
01:27particles. The little speckles or sparkles, those are particles as well. Smoke,
01:31rain, snow, anything where there is tons of something going on. You don't want
01:37to animate every single little component. That's when we call in Particles in After Effects.
01:42Now Particles is a huge topic. We can easily take up an entire lynda.com
01:46training series in just Particles in After Effects. So my point here in this
01:51chapter is just to kind of get you started to show you what's out there in After
01:55Effects, when you are looking to create some particles.
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Creating sparkles with CC Particle Systems II
00:01In this movie we're going to start our journey by looking at creating sparkles
00:04with an effect called CC Particle Systems II. We're going to start from scratch here.
00:09So go ahead and create new composition. Let's make it 720 X 480 with
00:14square pixels, 29.97 frames per second and a duration of 4 seconds. I'll click OK here.
00:20Next to make a solid I'm just going to use the keyboard shortcut Command+Y on
00:23the Mac or Ctrl+Y on the PC to do that. My solid here is green, but it doesn't
00:28matter what color you make it. I'm going to go ahead and click OK, making sure
00:30that it's comp size.
00:32Let's go over to the Effects and Presets panel, do a search on CC part.
00:36As soon as you say CC part, you can see CC Particle Systems II and that's the effect we
00:41want to apply. So I'm just going to drag and drop this on to my solid layer.
00:46Now the reason why we're talking about this effect now is twofold. Number one,
00:50we haven't really covered CC Particle Systems II in any training that I've done
00:54on lynda.com so far. So it's kind of some new territory to get into and that's
00:58kind of fun. Also because this is a good indication of what typical particle
01:02effects are like. Whether using them in After Effects or 3DS Max, or another
01:07program, or from another third party After Effects plug-in, or whatever.
01:10There is a lot of concepts here with this effect that are common to many particle systems.
01:15If we go ahead and hit the Spacebar, we'll see what we see with many particle
01:20effects and that is it is auto animated. Basically what that means is that from
01:23Frame 0, it's already spitting stuff out. There is physics built in. So all
01:28this stuff is done for us. We don't have to keyframe it.
01:30Now, let's go over here to the Effect Controls panel and start playing around
01:33with this a little bit. Let's first open up Particle. People that are new to
01:37Particle Systems often get discouraged when they see the default results for a
01:41particle system. So if I'm dragging my current time indicator around and look
01:44at this and it kind of looks like hair, or sparks, something that is just not super great.
01:50So what we can do is play around with the Particle Type in the particle area.
01:54So by default it's a line. In other words it's shooting out a bunch of lines.
01:57But you can change this to star. So it's shooting out a bunch of stars. We can
02:01also change this to shaded sphere, a faded sphere. As you can see already
02:06the power here as we just even just change the shape. Again what's cool,
02:11we don't have to keyframe any of this stuff. It's already spitting out all these
02:15things for us. Again we don't animate the individual pieces. We control the
02:20emitter, the thing that's spitting out the particles.
02:23Now oftentimes with Particle Systems, they refer to these little particles that
02:27are being spit out, whatever it is, as kind of like people. Like they have a
02:32birth and a death. So here in the particle area we have a Birth Size and a
02:36Death Size. So basically when the particle is born what size is it and when it dies,
02:41when it's fading out, at the end of its particle life, how big is it at that point.
02:46So you'll notice that the Birth Size is considerably smaller than the Death Size.
02:50So basically what that's telling us is it's going to start small and then
02:53get bigger as it fades out. We could play around with the variation in size.
02:59We also can adjust the Opacity here. Now we're having these Fade Out as they're
03:03being born, but we can also have these Fade In, so that they start out
03:08transparent and become opaque as they come to life.
03:11Now what I'm going to do for my sparkles, because that's really what we're here
03:14doing is making sparkles. I'm going to change this to Star and I'm going to
03:18have the Opacity Map set to Oscillate. So they're not going to fade in or out.
03:22They're going to do both all the time, so they are doing constantly kind of
03:26twinkling, which is going to be good for sparkles.
03:29By the way, please don't think that I'm the authority, the God figure of
03:34creating sparkles. There is no book about what sparkles and pixie dust
03:38and stuff like that looks like. So this is just kind of my own interpretation.
03:41Feel free to play around with this however you'd like.
03:43Now there is a Birth Color. In other words what color the particle is born as
03:47and what color it dies as, the Death Color. So we might go ahead and click on
03:51these color swatches. And maybe we want these to be born as maybe pink or
03:55something and maybe their Death Color is like blue perhaps. That looks kind of
04:01pretty princess sparkly. That looks good.
04:03Let's go to the top here. I'm going to close our particle. At the top we have
04:06Birth Rate. This is basically how many particles are born. So if we take down the
04:12Birth Rate, we'll have less particles because they're not being born as much.
04:17So if I hit the Home key and preview this again, we just have some random
04:22sparkles, just kind of spitting out there. It's not super thick and full like
04:27it would be if we took the Birth Rate up really high.
04:30Keep in mind as well that the more particles you have in your scene here,
04:34the slower it's going to render. So I'm going to take this back down a little bit.
04:37I kind of like more sparse particles like that. That looks good.
04:41We also have Longevity. In other words, how long in seconds these particles
04:45last before dying. So if we take this to be really really short here, maybe
04:50like two-tenths of a second, they just kind of like shoot out from one point
04:55like that. That's another interesting effect. Again we could have these just
04:59last forever in which case they only turn blue as they're leaving the screen
05:03because it takes them so long to die.
05:05Let's open up Producer. And the Producer is the actual emitter, the thing
05:09that's shooting out the particles. We could change the X size of the emitter.
05:14Maybe we don't want it emitting from a point. Maybe we want it emitting from
05:17like a whole area like this. We could also increase the Y, the vertical size.
05:21Just now we have kind of like this cool star field type thing that's moving
05:25around really weird. I'm just going to right-click on Radius Y and
05:29Radius X and Reset them.
05:31Basically we can also move this position around, if we take the Effect Control
05:36point, say we move it over here and we can set a keyframe for Position, move in
05:40time, change the value, and then move in time and change the value. You can see
05:46how it can create this awesome trail of sparkles here.
05:50Now I'm not really happy with how this is spitting out in kind of a really
05:54random way. So what we can do is open up Physics and change the Physics.
05:58So right now they're animating in an explosive way we could change this to a
06:02Fractal Explosive, also to a Twirl, to a Twirly, Vortex, which is kind of
06:08interesting. Look at that. It's more of in a straight line but it's also a
06:12little too vortexian. It's like spitting out and twirling little bit too much
06:16for my taste. I might want to change that to Fire, in which case it points
06:20upwards constantly. But that's still kind of cool for sparkles.
06:24Now in this category, we also have Velocity. How fast they're getting spit out
06:29and we also have things like Gravity, so we can increase the Gravity, or
06:33decrease the Gravity. Let's take this down really far here. Let's take it
06:40just down to 0. The Gravity just doesn't seem to work on these particles at all.
06:45They are just going to stay put. We could also increase the Resistance, which
06:49means that how thick the air is essentially, how likely they're to just kind of
06:52stand the same spot. So now as they spit out, they kind of don't go anywhere
06:57which also creates an interesting effect.
06:58The last thing I want to talk about here is we can also change the direction
07:02these particles are being spit out in, which you can see more if you change in the
07:06Direction or set the Animation to Direction. It's kind of moving around in a
07:10different way there. That's kind of cool. I'll take this back to Fire for the
07:14time being and I'll take Resistance back down to something a little decent there, 5 or so.
07:21I want to add Fast Blur to this. One of the coolest things about particles is
07:26you could just keep stacking effects on top of them. So if we blur this, you'll
07:30see that the result is much different than what we initially saw. So now
07:35it actually can kind of has a watery look to it rather than the princess sparkles
07:39look that we had earlier.
07:41Now this is a lot to take in I realize. There are just infinite possibilities
07:45for any particle system. I'm going to delete these effects. I've created some
07:48animation presets for you, if you have access to the exercise files. If not,
07:52you just watch and I'll show you what I've created for you here.
07:55With this Solid selected and the effects still here, I'm going to go to the Animation
07:58menu at the top of the screen and I'd just like to apply Animation Preset.
08:01Now I've created this Animation Presets folder for you in the Media folder of
08:06the Exercise Files folder. There are just a few things I want to show you.
08:09I have this Building Cubes preset. So if you play this, it's kind of interesting,
08:13you see these cubes kind of being built. It's just kind of sticking there,
08:18which I think is like a really interesting look. It could be for backgrounds or
08:22what have you, if there is like a city being built and you're watching from space or something.
08:26The way I created this was by changing the shape to cubes and then I also
08:31increased the Resistance a lot and also increased the Velocity. So they're
08:34being spit out really fast, but they're not moving too far because the
08:38resistance is high. I'm going to delete that.
08:40Let's go to Animation > Apply Animation Preset again and here's one that's Fire.
08:44Now if I preview this, this is some fire that I made in CC Particle
08:48Systems II. Actually, let's go ahead and give that a second to render. We'll come
08:52back when it's ready to play back.
08:54So now back to that render, as we play this back,
08:56you can see this fire kind of go on. Looks pretty cool.
08:59Let's actually see what we did here. We have the CC Particle Systems II
09:03effect at the top. Let me turn off these other effects so we can see what's going on here.
09:07So you see that we have all of these cubes that are being spit out.
09:10So we know how to do that, and then I applied Fast Blur to that, and then the Roughen
09:14Edges Effect, and then Turbulent Displace, and then a Glow, and Levels, and
09:20Hue/Saturation. So with all these always effects together, we have this kind of
09:24cool fiery effect. Now it's definitely not photo realistic fire, but if you
09:28needed fire in a pinch, this would bail you out. It's kind of cool.
09:30Now I'm going to select all these effects and delete those. Next I'm going top hit
09:34the Home key. Let's go up to the Animation menu, select Apply Animation Preset
09:37and select Princess Sparkles. These Princess Sparkles are these cute little
09:41sparkles that change colors here. So it looks good. Go back to Animation and
09:46apply Animation Preset. We have a few typical things here. We have some
09:50Snowfall. Again I'm going to hit the Home key. Finally we have fire sprinkler.
09:57So if I go and preview this, you could see what this one looks like.
10:01Fire sprinkler at the top kind of spitting out water.
10:03Now one other thing I want to point out too with this. If I do a search on
10:08the Cycore Particle effects, there are other effects like CC Particle World,
10:13for example, also created by Cycore. This one is like CC Particle Systems II,
10:20but it's more advanced in that is actually a three-dimensional particle
10:25system. So when these particles blow up, you can actually rotate this in 3D
10:30space. So it becomes even more powerful.
10:32So after you have start feeling comfortable with the CC Particle Systems II,
10:36graduate to CC Particle World where the real power it is.
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Creating snow with Foam
00:00Now we are going to look at another powerful After Effects particle system and
00:04that is Foam. So I'm going to go search for the Foam effect. I'm going to apply
00:09it to this layer called Foam. Now the Foam layer is just a black solid. I'm going
00:15to turn it back on here. So this is what it looks like without Foam.
00:18Once we apply it, it removes the layer and replaces it with Foam.
00:21As the name implies, Foams just makes a bunch of bubbles. But the cool thing
00:26that we see with Foam that we didn't see in the last movie with CC Particle
00:30Systems II is that Foam allows you to replace the particle with another layer
00:35of your choice. There is also a lot of really cool physics here as well.
00:40Now, first thing what I'll do is go up to the top here and change the view from
00:44Draft, which are these really ugly aliased bubbles here to Rendered. So now
00:49things are looking a little bit better there, but still we need to make some
00:52changes if we are going to make this into snow, which is our eventual destination here.
00:56Now we are seeing a lot of the same features that we saw with CC Particle
01:00Systems II. We have a Producer Point. That's this point in the middle here.
01:04If we drag this out, it will circle with the plus in it, basically where the
01:08bubbles are emanating from. And just like CC Particles Systems II, we have an X
01:13Size, in other words, its width. And its Y Size, which basically means its height.
01:17Instead of having a property called Birth Rate, we have a property called
01:21Production Rate, same thing though. If we increase, it's going to make more
01:25bubbles and if we decrease, it's going to make less bubbles. If we open up the
01:28Bubbles area, we'll see some basic attributes here, like the Size of the
01:33bubbles, and the Strength of the bubbles. If we open up the Physics area, we'll
01:36see some basic properties of physics, but we'll also see some bubbly unique
01:41properties like Wobble Amount, and Repulsion and Stickiness.
01:46These are things that aren't common in most Particle Systems, so it's one of the
01:50things I really like about Foam is you have that extra control. Now if we are
01:53making snow, which we are eventually, we don't really need Turbulence,
01:58so I'm going to take this to 0. We don't want our snow to Wobble, so I'm going to take
02:02this to 0. We don't want them to repel, so I'm going to take down Repulsion to 0.
02:06And we don't want the snow to be sticky really, so I'm going to take
02:09Stickiness to 0 as well.
02:11Viscosity is basically the thickness of the air, so if you are going to make
02:15bubbles underwater, we would want to turn up the Viscosity, because they would
02:19be moving more slowly, even though you can't have bubbles under water. But if you
02:22want to have these particles that were moving slowly like they are moving
02:26through some kind of like sludge or tar or something, you want to bump up Viscosity.
02:30So you may want to take that all the way down since we have light snowfall but
02:34I'm just going to leave that as it is for the time being. Close up Physics.
02:37And also since we are making snow, let's actually go ahead and increase the
02:41Producer X Size all the way to .45. I'll make it the width of the layer.
02:47And let's make the Producer Point off screen, just a little bit above the top of
02:51the screen, so the snow will fall.
02:54And actually, if you really want the snow to fall, we should probably back into
02:56Physics and take the Wind Direction to about 180. That will point it downwards.
03:03There we go. So it's starting to look like bubbles. They are acting like snow a
03:08little bit. Now one of the things I like about Foam is that we have an Initial
03:13Speed and Direction, and a Wind Speed and Direction, two separate things.
03:17So we can maybe take the Initial Speed up to .5 and make that Direction 180 and
03:22so it's basically going to do what the wind was doing, pushing it downwards.
03:25But then we can also have the wind come in here. Maybe the Wind Direction is 90
03:30degrees. So maybe the bubbles initially shoot out downwards, but then the wind
03:35carries them afterwards over to the side and that's actually the way snow
03:39would work. It falls straight down, but the wind oftentimes easily blows it
03:43away because of its lightness.
03:45Now we have a few other tweaks to make here but before we go too much further,
03:48let's go ahead and open up the Rendering category. This is where we can change
03:52the texture of our bubbles. In the Bubble Texture dropdown, we have it set by
03:56default to Default Bubble. We could change this to Amber Bock, and a few other
03:59preset patterns for bubbles.
04:01But what I want to do is use my own user defined Bubble Texture. So I'm going
04:07to take the Bubble Texture to User Defined. Next, we are going to take the
04:12Bubble Texture layer dropdown to snowflake. Now just so you know, I have
04:18created this snowflake layer in Photoshop. It's basically just a single paint
04:22stroke with a feather edged brush, with a white paint. And that's all this on
04:26this layer, just this white little paint stroke here.
04:29So now we are using that paint stroke as the bubbles, instead of the bubbles,
04:35and so instantly this looks a lot more like snow. Now I'll probably want to
04:40bump up the Production Rate, so that there is more snow. That looks more snowy.
04:44At this point I might also want to change the Size, maybe decrease that just a little bit.
04:48Now one of the things that's really not working for me here is, if we hit the Home key,
04:52I hit the Spacebar to preview this, it takes a while for the snow to fall.
04:57In real life, you probably wouldn't be filming something and it would be not
05:01snowy at all, and then be completely snowy, or start to snow. So what we would
05:05want to do is start this later in the process. So what I'm going to do is grab
05:10this layer and move it to the left. Now make sure you don't grab the edge,
05:14because that will trim the clip. Instead grab the clip somewhere inside and
05:18drag it to the left so the beginning of the particle system is before the
05:21beginning of the composition.
05:23So now when we are at the beginning of the composition, we already have some snow falling.
05:27And what I'll do then is grab the end of this layer-- So then what
05:31I'll do is grab the very end of this layer and drag it to the right, which will
05:35lengthen the duration of the layer. Now there will be ample snowfall and
05:39it will continue. Now there is a lot we can do at this point. We can fiddle around
05:44a little bit more with Size Variance and we can also play around with Size a little bit more.
05:50We can adjust the Zoom to again increase the size. We can also adjust the
05:55Life Span, how many frames these snow particles are allowed to live for, and so
05:59on and so forth. There is a lot we could do to tweak this. We can also do some
06:03other tweaking outside of these controls. For example, I could select the layer
06:07Foam and duplicate it. And now in the duplicate, adjust the Random Seed value.
06:12That will give us kind of some more depth in our snow.
06:16We could also go to the bottom layer of Foam and apply a little Fast Blur to
06:21that Foam and that will give us some more depth to what's going on. So we'll
06:26have some bubbles or snow particles that are a little sharp and then we'll have
06:30some a little bit more blurry and that kind of adds again to the depth of the snow.
06:35Now another thing I want to point out about Foam real quick is that the lager
06:38that you use for the particles, can also be a movie, not just a still image,
06:43in which case the particles would be a movie that plays back.
06:47Now I have seen this used for sparkles, where you have a movie that has a sparkle
06:51that changes color and so the Foam particles change colors. I have also seen
06:54this used to make an army. Let's say you had a video clip of a soldier or
06:59something and if you put that as the Bubble Texture in Foam you are going to
07:03have an army of these soldiers.
07:06So think of stars or butterflies or ants or anything that you would want a huge
07:10swarm of, Foam is a great candidate to make that happen.
Collapse this transcript
Creating a cyclone with Particle Playground
00:00Now we're going to look at what is probably the most advanced particle system
00:05in After Effects, and that is particle playground. Now, I typically don't use
00:09particle playground very often because it is really complex and it's very slow to render.
00:14There are a couple of things that particle playground does very well that other
00:18particle systems in After Effects don't do. So that's what we're going to focus
00:21on here. As a matter of fact, this is the result that we're going to create.
00:24We have this cool footage from Greenlayers.com, this woman casting the spell.
00:29So we're going to make this crazy, green smoke that moves along this crazy insane magical path.
00:36So let's go over to the Start composition, and by default, this is what a
00:41particle playground looks like when it's applied. So let's go ahead and solo
00:44that top layer, the Particles layer, and we'll play this back. Now, I've done a
00:48few things just to kind of get as going. I animate the position of this layer
00:53so that it matches the candle of the subject from the Greenlayers.com footage.
00:58So we'll get that in the right place in just a moment. If you select the layer
01:01you'll also see that I've created a mask for you that the particles are going
01:05to follow. So let's go ahead and solo that layer again and look a little bit at
01:09particle playground, go to the Effect Controls panel.
01:12Now particle playground has four different particle systems built into it, the
01:17Cannon, the Grid, the Layer Exploder and the Particle Exploder. For more
01:22information about this effect and all the other effects in After Effects, you
01:26can check out the After Effects' Effects Training Series on Lynda.com.
01:30In this movie we're just going to focus on the Cannon particle emitter. The
01:34cannon shoots out a series of particles in a stream. If we move the direction,
01:40you can see how this is spitting out particles in different directions here.
01:44So the first thing I'm going to do is click the Effect Control Point for a
01:47position here and move the cannon inside where the mask is. Now, as you can see
01:53here, the particles do not respect the mask whatsoever. So go down to the Wall
01:59category and change the Boundary from None to the Mask.
02:04Now, the mask that particle playground can use must be on the layer, it cannot
02:08use a mask from another layer. However, as you can see, once you select a mask
02:13to use as a boundary, then these particles bump around the mask and don't go
02:19outside of it, which is really cool.
02:21So you can create things like tornadoes and cyclones and you could do all kinds
02:25of crazy stuff. You can have them just bounce off the wall, ricochet off the
02:28floor, whatever you want them to do. Now, I'm going to close up the Wall.
02:32We are done with what's out there. Let's go ahead and click on Color, we want this
02:35to be like a darker green here.
02:38We could also increase the Particle Radius and the Particles Per Second is
02:44basically the birth rate, so you can increase how many particles there are. Now
02:48these particles are just kind of hanging out here, we don't want that. So we
02:51could open up Gravity and take the direction of the gravity to 0, which will
02:55make them float upwards.
02:58So now our smoke is basically in the right spot. It's behaving correctly.
03:03It looks really ugly though. So let's go ahead and add Fast Blur and increase the
03:07blur on that. Now we have a nice little smoky texture and smoke that respects
03:12the boundaries of the mask.
03:15So for all intents and purposes, we are done here for the tutorial, if you'd
03:19like to perfect this, then you could go and add on extra Color Correction
03:23effects such as Levels or Glow to make this kind of stick out a little bit more.
03:28Then I'll take down the Glow Threshold to make this more glowy. Then we
03:33have this final result where the smoke follows that trail.
Collapse this transcript
8. Creating Common Motion Graphics Elements
Creating staggered video with photos
00:00In this tutorial we are going to look at a common effect that I see often
00:03especially at the beginning of reality shows, where instead of having video of
00:08the characters in the show, they will just have a series of photographs, kind
00:12of staggered together. And basically what I have done is I have started with
00:15some photos of myself, and I have taken them into Photoshop. And I have removed
00:20the background and then brought them into After Effects. We'll talk more about
00:23Photoshop later on in this training series. I'll show you how to do that.
00:26Now I have these photos here of myself and actually what I'm going to do is I'm
00:30going to solo these. So here's the photo I just showed you in Photoshop, and
00:35basically what I done is I have added some color correction to this. And so
00:39what we are going to do is we are going to stagger these different photos of
00:42me, so that it animates together as if it were video.
00:47So we'll start with the first one here, and actually I have to Shy these
00:49layers, you can click the Shy button to just see these upper torso shots, and
00:53I'm going to move the Work Area here. I kind of already created these markers
00:58here to show you where the photo should start and stop. So what I'm going to do
01:03is I'm going to put my cursor at this first one and I'm going to click and drag
01:08the beginning of this one over to the beginning of the work area. And I want
01:13the next one to work at the 2 marker.
01:15Actually, I can click this big mountain here to zoom in a little bit, and what
01:19I want to do here again is in this layer here where the 2 marker is, so I'm
01:25going to type 2 on the main area of the keyboard to jump my Current Time
01:28Indicator there. Then what I'm going to do is I'm going to hit the Page Up key
01:33to go backwards one frame. Remember that I want the next clip to start at the
01:38marker, so I want this clip to end the frame before the marker.
01:42So what I'm going to do is I'm going to hold the Option key down or that will
01:44be the Alt key on the PC and the right bracket key, that will trim this layer
01:50so that it ends at the current frame. Next, I'm going to hit the Page Down key
01:54or the 2 key on the main area of the keyboard to go forward one frame. Then I'm
01:58going to select the layer below, just type 12 on the keyboard. Now the first
02:03layer animates in, it kind of pops in like this and notice how with this final
02:07animation it kind of blinks like.
02:09But then for the other layers they are not animated, they are just still
02:14images. Now if we hold the Option key or the Alt key down, it's going to trim
02:18it, but if we just hit the bracket key, it's going to jump it in time. So it
02:24actually moved the layer instead of trimmed it. So next, I'm going to hit the
02:28number 3 on the main area of the keyboard to go to the next marker here. Again,
02:32Page Up will move you back one frame. Option+right bracket will trim the clip,
02:38Page Down will advance you to the next frame, Command or Ctrl+down arrow will
02:43select the layer below. Left bracket will make it start at the current time.
02:48Hit the number 4 in the main area of the keyboard to jump to the next marker,
02:51go back a frame, trim it. Advance a frame, select the next layer, hit the left
02:57bracket key, make it start at the current time. And then we could just leave
03:01this frame out for the duration of the composition.
03:04So if we move in time, let's go to the 5 second mark here, hit N to make the
03:08Work Area end there. Now what I'll do is zoom out here at 50% and let's play
03:12back the final result.
03:14Okay, so I pop up and I'm wiggling a little bit because the composition that's
03:19in there is wiggling. But you can see that there is this kind of fun animated
03:22corky photo thing. And again, you will see this often at the beginning of a lot
03:27of TV shows especially I have noticed it's popular in reality TV shows, but
03:31it's kind of a cool little trick to know about.
03:33I should also point out this way easier to produce, it's much quicker to get in
03:37there with some snapshots that look great rather than trying to setup a big old
03:41video shoot. And also the results are much cleaner and because they are so much smaller
03:47because they are just photos, it's much easier and quicker in postproduction as well.
Collapse this transcript
Creating ink spatter
00:00Now we are going to look at how to create the very popular Ink Spatter effect.
00:05Now granted there are a host of ways to get the job done here, where we
00:08could really flick ink on a piece of paper and scan it and trace it or whatever
00:13we want to do there. We could go into Illustrator where there are some stock
00:17ink spatters, but what I want to show you here is how to create it from scratch
00:20in After Effects.
00:22The way I'm going to show you how to use it uses the Particle System we looked
00:25at earlier, CC Particle Systems II. So I'm going to apply this to this blue
00:29solid that we have. It's important to get the right color solid, because the
00:33trick that we are going to use here actually makes the Ink Spatter the color
00:37of the layer it's applied to.
00:38So let's open up Particle down at the bottom. We'll change the Particle Type to
00:43either Lens, Convex, or Lens Concave. They seem to have similar results here.
00:47And as you can see here it picked up the blue color from the solid. Now it's
00:50starting to look a little ink spattery already.
00:52Let's just change a few things. For the Opacity Map, we want to change it from
00:56Fade Out, which kind of makes it partial transparent here and they would become
01:00more transparent as they get away. Ink doesn't do that. So let's change this to
01:03Constant and then let's bump up the Max Opacity to 100%.
01:08Now with a lot of particles, they start small and they get bigger as they grow.
01:11Hence, they have the default Birth Size being much smaller than the default
01:15Death Size. But with Ink Spatter, it's typically different. You would flick a
01:18big thing of ink down the ground and then there would be tiny little dots
01:22around that. So we actually want the Birth Size to be substantially larger than
01:28the Death Size. I'm going to take the Death Size down a little bit there.
01:30Now there is way too much Ink Spatter here so I'm going to decrease Birth Rate
01:35and I'm also going to open up Physics. I definitely don't want there to be any
01:38Gravity because by default if I play this now it's spitting the ink downwards.
01:43I actually want it to kind of look like it's splatting. So I'm going to take
01:45Gravity down to 0. So now it appears to just be a spitting out in the center,
01:51which is great. That's what we want.
01:52I am going to increase Resistance, so that those ink particles stay close.
01:59We could also adjust the Velocity to determine how far apart those Ink Spatters
02:03are spread out. Now even though our Birth Rate's a comparatively low in
02:07number, it's still too much. There's still too much ink on the screen.
02:10So I'm going to lower this to maybe .3, somewhere around there. And also I might want
02:15to take up Birth Size a little bit.
02:18Now you could feel free to tweak these settings to your heart's content.
02:21You may want a little bit more Size Variation there. Again you might want to take
02:25down the Birth Rate just a little bit more. It's up to you. And then as you
02:31get some good settings, then move your Current Time Indicator around and look
02:35for a frame that looks like good Ink Spatter to you.
02:39Actually, you might want to reduce the Velocity, bring those particles in a
02:42little bit more. And once you have found a good frame of Ink Spatter, then what
02:49you can do is solo that layer and then go to Composition > Save Frame As > File
02:56because the problem is, and this is what most Particles Systems are set up to do,
03:00they are not really set up to freeze frame. So even though we might be
03:04happy with this single frame of Ink Spatter as we play this in our comp,
03:08it's going to continually move.
03:10So you want to find a frame that looks good in and of itself, then go to
03:14Composition, again, Save Frame As > File. That will add this to the Render Wueue here.
03:20And the Output Module is set to Photoshop. Click the word Photoshop.
03:24Now you could set this to be a Photoshop file if you want. I chose a TIFF. And you
03:28want to make sure that if you are choosing a TIFF that it says RGB + Alpha.
03:32You want this black transparency here.
03:35If the Channels were set to just RGB, then when you brought this Ink Spatter in
03:39it would be the color of the Ink Spatter with the black background and
03:42you don't want that. So leave that set to RGB + Alpha. And I'm going to go back up
03:46here to Post-Render Action. This is what you want After Effects to do with this
03:50file once it's done rendering. And by default it's set to None, but I actually
03:55want to import this into my current project so I can use it.
03:59So I'll click OK here and then click on Output To and figure out where to save it.
04:05Now I have already gone ahead and output a single frame of Ink Spatter and
04:09have also imported this into my Timeline. We'll now take off the visibility of
04:15the blue Ink Spatter we made and show you the white Ink Spatter that I made.
04:19Now once it's an independent layer, we can move in time here and nothing
04:24changes. We can scale this and move this and put this maybe in a corner or
04:27maybe get other frames of Ink Spatter that we made. We can also add the Minimax
04:33effect. We'll do a search for that in Effects & Presets panel and then apply
04:37that to our Ink Spatter. Change the Operation to Minimum, and then as we
04:44increase this, you will see that it erodes the edges of the layer.
04:48Well, if we start with the layer somewhere, in a Radius around 48 for me, in this case.
04:53Now actually I want to change the Channel to Alpha. We click the
04:56stopwatch for Radius and move out in time a few frames and then animate this to 0,
05:01and you will see as we play this back that the ink strokes kind of splat on, like that.
05:07(Splat!) And yes, the sound effects really do help.
05:11But you want to make sure you don't have too many frames that are showing of this
05:15because that's not super-attractive. But the whole action takes place so fast
05:19that maybe if you add a little Blur during those first few frames,
05:22it wouldn't really tell that what's going on here. But it kind of splats on and
05:26these last little circles come on last, which kind of makes it feel more like real Ink Spatter.
05:33Now there is a few more things that we can do with this going forward.
05:36That's pretty much it for the tutorial. But if you want to take this to the next step,
05:38number one, you could apply the Roughen Edges effect, one of my favorites.
05:43 Apply Roughen Edges, maybe take down the Border a little bit, maybe
05:48take down the Scale a little bit. And you could just basically add some grunge
05:52to the edge of these little ink spatters to make them look a little bit more realistic.
05:57Anyway, you have to play with these settings in order to get them where you
06:01want them, but having a little bit of a rough edge around some of this makes it
06:05look a little bit more believable. As you can see the downside of this is that
06:09it does take some fiddling with in order to get it to look good. I'm not really
06:13super happy with these settings or rather the box, but you could play with this
06:15a little bit more and get better results I'm sure.
06:17Another thing that you can do is to select the Ink Spatter layer that we have
06:22isolated and rendered, then go up to the Layer menu at the top and select
06:27Auto-trace. This will create a mask around all of the ink spatter. From there
06:34you could do a whole bunch of stuff. If you have this as a separate mask then
06:38you could go in and animate mask expansion for each of the different masks that
06:42it creates and that would look better than Minimax.
06:45If you animate the mask expansion to expand all of these different masks,
06:50it would make it look like each one of them is splatted on, whenever you animated it to.
06:55And you don't have that kind of control with Minimax and Minimax doesn't look as good
06:58as that. Also by having a mask around your ink spatter, if it was a solid layer,
07:04you could export this to Flash and have it remain a vector. Once you have created
07:08masks with this, you could also copy and paste the masks into Adobe Illustrator
07:12and once there there you could apply the Crystallize tool or the Pucker and
07:17Bloateffect to kind of give it more of an ink spatter look.
07:21So I'm sure there is many more ways to do this, but here are a bunch of ideas
07:24just to get you started on creating ink spatter.
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Creating watery textures
00:01At some point in your motion graphics career you will probably be asked to make
00:04a watery type texture. So in this movie, I'm going to show you a couple of
00:07different ways to do that.
00:08First, we'll start up by making some water with the Fractal Noise effect.
00:12So I'm going to go to the Effects & Presets panel and do a search on Fractal Noise
00:16and apply that here to my solid.
00:18Now if you want more information on the effects that we are going to be looking
00:22at in this movie, we are going to be looking Fractal Noise, and also Wave
00:25World, and Caustics. Check out the After Effects Effects training series on
00:29www.lynda.com. In this movie, I'm just going to give you some formulated
00:32recipes to get you thinking creatively.
00:35So the Fractal Noise effect in the Effects Controls panel, take the Fractal
00:38Type dropdown to Swirly. Next, take the Noise Type to Spline. Now, we're going
00:45to skip Contrast and Brightness, we'll come back to them in just a second, take
00:48the Overflow dropdown to Wrap Back.
00:51Now, what Wrap Back does is that it makes it so that once things become too bright,
00:56they don't just push to white. They actually wrap back, going back and
01:02becoming darker. As you can see this can create really interesting visual
01:07patterns. But it's also really great especially when you're making water,
01:10because it really helps when you are making these little caustic edges that we see in water.
01:15So, leave Overflow set to Wrap Back, take Contrast to about 127, take
01:21Brightness to about 102. And again, as I said before, there are no hard and
01:27fast rules about how to make water with Fractal Noise. So these are just my
01:30settings, my recipe that I've created, so feel free to tweak this as you please.
01:34Open up the Transform area next, uncheck Uniform Scaling and for Scale Width,
01:40take this down to about 74 or so. Scale Height, take that down to about 36.
01:47Next, take Complexity to 3.2. Now it's starting to look like water, looking
01:52pretty good. Open up Sub Settings, take Sub Influence up to 92, and Sub Scaling up to 71.
02:02Now, this is about our final water texture, but if you wanted to play with this
02:06more, let's say you want to take down Sub Influence, Sub Scaling. If you wanted
02:10the water to be less turbulent, a little bit more smooth, you could increase
02:14the Scale Width. And then you have some pretty decent looking water. Of course
02:18we need to colorize this.
02:19So, let's go ahead and apply the Tritone effect. The Caustics and Highlights,
02:24I'm going to leave at White. Go ahead and change the Midtones to a nice watery
02:28blue, looking pretty good there. What I'm going to do is also change the
02:32Shadows color, but I'm going to use the Midtones color as a base. So, I'm going
02:36to click the eyedropper for Shadows and then click on the color swatch for Midtones.
02:41Next, click on color swatch for Shadows. Get the color picker here and then we
02:46can make this darker as we so choose. I'm kind of not liking these little
02:51pockets of midtones that we're getting. So, what I'm going to do is go back up
02:55to the top and adjust the Contrast a little bit further until we get rid of
02:58those, and that's looking pretty good there.
03:01Now, if you want to animate this, I'd recommend, even though you could use
03:06Evolution, which works pretty good, one of the things that I found that works
03:09good this particular setting is to animate Sub Offset, particularly the X axis
03:14of the Sub Offset. So you can see that kind of looks like, it creates like this
03:17nice rolling water effect. So, you'd probably want to animate this a little bit
03:21and then also animate Evolution just a little bit to bring this water to life.
03:25But you could use this water as just a texture background of course, you could
03:29also use it with a track matte in text, you could also use it for background
03:34elements, you could use it with the Corner Pin effect to warp this and put this
03:37maybe like in a pool or in a background or something. Definitely a lot of
03:41possibilities here.
03:42Let's look at another way to make water with the Caustics effect. I have here
03:45this Caustics comp with two layers in it. I have the Precomp Wave World layer
03:52here, which is actually a precomposition of a solid with the Wave World effect
03:55applied to it. And this kind of has like this nice look, like somebody is
04:00dragging their finger in this gray sludge.
04:04Well, the Caustics effect is going to take this gray sludge and make it look
04:07like water. So, I'll take off the visibility of the Precomp Wave World layer
04:11and let's turn on the Medium Gray- Royal Blue Solid. And let's apply the
04:15Caustics effects, caus, there we go. Apply that and take the Water Surface
04:21dropdown from None to Precomp Wave World. And now we have some pretty decent looking water.
04:28Again, like somebody is running their fingers through this. It looks
04:32spectacular. But before we preview this and show you really what this is doing
04:35here, I want to change the color on this. I'm going to apply the Levels effect
04:39and I'm going to brighten the Highlights, ever so gently. And I'm also going to
04:45darken the Shadows, again a little subtly. And also I'm going to drag the
04:50Midtone slider to the right darkening everything overall. And that's a little
04:55plastic, so I might want to ease up on that just a little bit.
04:58Finally, I want to apply some Hue/ Saturation. It's a little bit too saturated,
05:04so I'll take Saturation down. There we go. That's looking pretty good. You can
05:08also change the Hue if you want. We make this a little bit more greenish.
05:12And now we click the Home key and do a Ram Preview. Okay, there we go.
05:19Again, as we preview this, we can see these beautiful ripples in the water,
05:22they are so realistic. Watch this little ripple right here. It goes down and
05:27then bounces off the edge and comes back again off of this bottom edge of the
05:33imaginary pool. So we have some just beautiful ripples here and this might even
05:38look better if all the colors were changed because this looks a little bit more
05:41like paint than water.
05:43But nevertheless it is a beautiful watery ripple reflection type thing we got
05:48going on here. It's an amazing combination using Wave Worlds and Caustics together.
05:52So all in all we have two different ways to create cool water effects in After
05:57Effects with Fractal Noise and with Caustics.
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Creating clouds and fog
00:01In this movie, we're going to make a cloud and some fog from scratch in After
00:04Effects. We'll make both with a very versatile Fractal Noise Effect. Now,
00:09let's start with making a cloud first and so we'll start in the Clouds comp.
00:12Now what we're going to do is with the Cloud layer selected, I'm going to
00:16select the Pen tool and I'm going to click-and-drag, and click-and-drag, and
00:21click-and-drag, basically making kind of like a cloudy type shape here.
00:27It's definitely not a perfect type cloud shape, but what is a perfect cloud really?
00:33If you want to, you can go back to the regular Selection tool and grab on these
00:37anchor points and tweak them as you see fit. Of course, we'll talk about masks
00:42and using the Pen tool later on in this training series. Once you've got a
00:46somewhat cloudy type shape, go ahead and apply the Fractal Noise effect to this layer.
00:51Now, you may have noticed previously when using the Fractal Noise effect,
00:54the default settings for Fractal Noise do look like clouds already. So we don't
01:00have much to do. So, I'm going to take the Noise type from Soft Linear to
01:04Spline, make it a little bit smoother there and Contrast, maybe I'll take down
01:08just a wee bit, and Brightness maybe I'll take up just a wee-bit there.
01:14You may also want to dial back the complexity just a little bit. Let me take it
01:18down to 5 or so. Now, one of the things that's preventing this from looking decent
01:23are the edges. So, I've to do some things to fix the edges. First of all,
01:28what we'll do is we'll select Cloud layer, hit the letter F for Feather and
01:32we'll feather the edge of the mask.
01:35It'll soften the edge of this cloud a little bit and give us a little bit more
01:39believability. And we'll also select the cloud layer, hit the letter T for
01:43Opacity and take down the opacity of the cloud.
01:47Now, I know we talked earlier in this training series about blend modes,
01:50but I find that if we use, let's say for example Screen, we get a result that's way
01:55too bright. Of course if you were going for cartoony clouds, that would be fantastic.
02:00In this case, I'm trying to create clouds that are as photo believable as
02:03possible. So, I'm going to go back to Normal and take down the opacity.
02:07Now, you might also want to add some Fast Blur to smooth things out here.
02:12Again, there are no hard and fast rules for making clouds in After Effects. So,
02:18as we add a little bit of Fast Blur, it smooth things out, it looks pretty nice there.
02:21We'd also add Roughen Edges to bring some edges of the cloud in and
02:25actually, I probably want to turn off Fast Blur for the moment and take up
02:30Roughen Edges before Fast Blur. So, it'll actually blur the edges as well.
02:34I'll take the Edge Type to Rusty and I'm also going to increase the Scale.
02:40I'm getting some fairly cloudy edges here. I may want to increase the border a little bit.
02:46You can't get carried away with this stuff. If you do it too much, it's going to
02:49start looking really fake. So, I'm going to take mine to about 15-20, somewhere
02:54in that general ballpark and then I'm going to turn back on my Fast Blur.
02:59Maybe now I'll dial it back a little bit. It's a little bit too strong.
03:03Then click outside the mask to de- select it. Fairly decent looking cloud.
03:08I want to take down the Opacity of it a little bit. But all in all, not too shabby of a cloud.
03:14Now, let's hop over to the Fog comp and make some fog. Fog is even easier to
03:19make with Fractal Noise than clouds are.
03:22So we have this car pointed at us with these headlights here. So we're going to
03:26apply this fog to make it even creepier. So I'll select the Fog layer and apply
03:31the Fractal Noise effect to the Fog layer.
03:34I've already taken down the opacity of the layers and I've already put it in
03:39Screen mode as well just so we could see what's going on as we're adjusting the
03:43Fractal Noise. Now again, we really don't have too much to do here and there
03:48are no hard and fast rules about making fog.
03:50So what I'm going to do is open up Transform, un-check Uniform Scaling and
03:55increase the Scale Width. Now, if you want an overall general sense of fog,
04:01this might be a good kind of shape for you. You may want to increase the
04:05Contrast if you'd like.
04:07You might also want to take down the Complexity so there's not as much detail
04:11in the fog, which is looking pretty fake at this point. So, if we take down the
04:14Complexity there, to me that looks a little better. Let's also take down the
04:17Brightness, so there's less of the fog.
04:20Now, you might want to make more of a wispy fog. You might want to take Scale
04:24Width up and just increase that a lot. So it's like this wide again wispy fog
04:29and we might increase Contrast here, decrease the Brightness, we have these
04:33nice wispy little fog lines in between us and the car.
04:38If you really want to get cool here, we could animate this and the way
04:42I'd recommend animating this is checking Perspective Offset and then animating the
04:47X axis of Offset Turbulence. What that's going to do is give you kind of a
04:51layered fog movement as if there is wind blowing the fog by. That's going to
04:58create a very beautiful result.
05:01So there are a couple of quick ways to create some nice and easy clouds and fog.
Collapse this transcript
Looping animated textures
00:00In this movie, we're going to look at how to create a seamlessly looping
00:04animated texture. So many times when I'm making some cool textured background,
00:09let's see with Fractal Noise or Cell Pattern, I just wanted to keep going
00:12endlessly in the background while other stuff comes up on screen.
00:16This is great too if you are doing something for a trade-show or a convention,
00:19you just want like something kind of cool in the background while text comes up
00:23on screen or something. You don't want to sit there and actually make an
00:26animated composition that's several hours long. What you can do is just make a
00:31small composition that's maybe a few seconds long and then put that into a
00:34bigger composition. You'll have to learn how to loop that seamlessly and again,
00:37that's what I'm talking about here.
00:39So then, I have this texture here that I've animated, looks really cool. I'm
00:43happy with it, some kind of like alien light-force thing or something. But
00:48you'll notice as it gets to the end of the composition, like right now starts
00:51over again, there is this huge jump and it looks really, really, really
00:55unattractive. So here is the last frame and here is the first frame. So it
00:59makes it jump from there to there, and it just doesn't look very pleasing.
01:04So here is the way that we can make this loop seamlessly. This only works for
01:09certain effects. So like I mentioned Fractal Noise and Cell Pattern it will
01:13work on, and there are a couple others. But for most effects you will need an
01:17Evolution Property and these Evolution Options.
01:20Be aware that the new effect, Turbulent Noise, which is really cool. It's
01:26supposed to be a higher-end version of Fractal Noise. It does have Evolution
01:31Options but you cannot loop this effect. So that's why in my training I still
01:36prefer to use Fractal Noise instead of Turbulent Noise, because I love nascent looping.
01:41So, going back to Fractal Noise here, you'll notice my Evolution Property
01:44animates from 00, so 0x evolutions in 0 degrees, just nothing essentially to 1x
01:51evolution and 33 extra degrees.
01:54Well, what you need to do in order to make this happen is do a couple of things
01:57actually. First we're going to turn on Cycle Evolution. Next we need to make
02:02sure that this number, Cycle (In Revolutions) is equal to the number of full
02:07complete revolutions that Evolution will do.
02:10Now technically, they don't have to be the exact same number, but they do have
02:14to be divisible and now I'm not going to take time to figure out the math here.
02:17By the way, we are not going to animate cycle. I'm going to hit the End key and
02:21then I'm going to change this to 1x revolution.
02:24So, I'm going to get rid of those extra degrees there. So, we have one full
02:28cycle and from the beginning of our comp to the end of the comp, we have one
02:32full revolution of evolution.
02:34Now, I'm going to do a ram preview of that while I'm talking to you about
02:38another issue here. Now this is going to be an almost seamless repetition
02:44except that it's going to be one frame shy of a perfectly seamless loop.
02:51So what we're going to need to do is actually go back and fill with the
02:55evolution keyframe we just set by manually moving it one frame beyond the end
03:01of the composition. But let's just go ahead and preview what we have so far
03:06before we make that change. Get another couple of seconds of rendering here of
03:11our cool alien light thing, okay, here we go.
03:15So, it's going, it's going and when it loops, it's good. There's not a huge
03:20jump from the last frame to the first frame. However, if you notice, I hit the
03:25End key and the Home key, and there is no difference visually. So basically,
03:30we're getting a repeating frame in there.
03:32So what I need to do is select the layer, type the letter U and then I need to
03:37grab this keyframe and drag it one frame over beyond the end of the
03:43composition. This will make it so that the last frame of the composition is one
03:48frame in the sequence before the first frame in the sequence. So then we'll
03:53have a complete perfect loop. Let's preview this just to make sure, okay.
03:57So now as we play that back, we notice no change, no pause, even a slight
04:04pause, it's just a beautiful seamless loop the way Mother Nature intended loops to be.
04:10Now, this Comp 1 is three seconds long. I'm not going to make four hours of
04:15this, but what I can do is go over to the big old comp that's 20 seconds long.
04:20Not that big, but it's bigger than what we had. I can take this composition and
04:24add this to the big old comp. And then I could hit Command+D or Ctrl+D on the
04:28Mac, and I could make these so that they stack up next to each other.
04:33Now, you probably want to use the trick I taught you in Chapter 2, where you
04:35jump to the outpoint, go to the next frame and then select the next layer and
04:41make sure the first frame is there, so that way you don't have any gas or
04:44overlapping frames, but if you'll notice, these two segments just continuously
04:50loop perfectly from one to the next.
04:53So, we could have hours of this clip, this little three second clip many, many
04:58times in a row and it will never be a noticeable jump, it will appear to be
05:02just a seamless beautiful loop.
05:05So again you could use this for practically anything, during credits or whether
05:08you have a DVD menu background or maybe you have some credits rolling or
05:12whatever, save yourself some work, and also some rendering time. Instead of
05:16having several hours of this, just have a few seconds that you duplicate.
Collapse this transcript
Creating the slow motion matrix effect
00:00This movie is going to be less of a tutorial and more of a kind of case study
00:05on a concept and idea about creating this kind of paused slow-motion effect
00:09made popular in the movie The Matrix, which was revolutionary in the visual effects world.
00:15So, there's some of the simple incomplete example here of this concept.
00:19So I'm going to select my composition. Let's do a quick little preview of this.
00:22We have this 3D render of a car. It blows up, pauses, rotates and then continues to explode.
00:29So, let's go through it a little bit slower with the car. Blows up and pauses and then
00:33rotates and then continues to explode. Now, we still need to finish this off,
00:38because the car hasn't completed exploding. I'll show you how to do that just a moment.
00:42But there's a couple different tricks I used here to pause the footage in the
00:45background, the explosion from detonationfilms and then also the still image layer.
00:50A couple of different techniques here. For the explosion, what I did is
00:53I used the Time Warp Effect.
00:55The Time Warp Effect has this property called Speed, which allows you to
00:58control the speed of your footage. So, I animated it from 100, which means
01:03you're basically playing the clip at regular speed, to 0, which means the clip is frozen,
01:08and for the explosion I kept it at 0. When it was time for the
01:12explosion and go back to life, I animated it from 0 to 100%, so it continues to explode.
01:18Now, for the SUV, I've used an effect called Shatter. Let me tell you what I've
01:23done here. I've taken Gravity Inclination from 0 to 90 degrees. By default,
01:29the Gravity Inclination is at 0 and then you use the Gravity Direction Property to
01:34determining which direction it'll be pulled by gravity.
01:36But if you take Gravity Inclination to 90 like I have, then it will render
01:40Gravity Direction, in effect it won't do anything and instead will
01:44blow up directly towards the viewer, which is what I wanted. To create the stop
01:48in the motion, what I've done is I've animated Viscosity and Gravity.
01:52While the car is blowing up, I have Viscosity set to 0.1 and Gravity set to 3,
01:58which are pretty average results creating a normal blowup. But as I go past here,
02:03when I want to freeze, I increased Viscosity to 1. That makes the air
02:07very thick. So, the pieces just kind of stop moving and then I also changed the
02:12Gravity to 0, which means they kind of float there.
02:16So, if you don't do both of these things, then the trick won't work. Now,
02:19it's up to us to resume the explosion after the 3D camera turn here. So, it blows up,
02:26 rotates and then it continue exploding.
02:30So, what you need to do is go over to the number 2 marker here in the
02:32composition, which is where the explosion starts blowing up again and we need
02:36to animate Force 2. Force 1 is the default explosive force in Shatter and
02:42Force 2 is kind of like a non-necessary secondary force you can use for occasions just like this.
02:48So, the first thing I want to do is I'm going to select the SUV side layer and
02:51type the letter U to see its keyframes and we need to get Viscosity back to
02:56where it was. So, I'm going to click this little icon here to set a keyframe
03:02for Viscosity at the current frame and that will use the same value as over
03:06here under the 1 comp marker.
03:09We don't want any interpolation happening during this time. So, if we have a
03:13keyframe value of 1 here and a keyframe value of 1 over here, then nothing
03:17happens in between. So then, I want this to be close to the 2 marker here,
03:23probably right on the 2 marker and then couple of frames after that, I want to
03:27take Viscosity back to 0.1, its original value.
03:32Now, we're not done yet, because what we need to do is go back to Force 2 and
03:37it doesn't have any radius. So, what we're going to do is we're going to click
03:39the stopwatch for Radius at 0 and move out a few frames and increase the radius.
03:45Now, let's see our results here. Go out in time little bit, our pieces continue
03:50to blow up and everything looks good. Now, what we might want to do is also
03:55change Gravity. So, we could come over here and do the same thing we did with
03:59Viscosity where we clicked this little diamond forcing a keyframe with the same
04:03value, a value of 0 over here and then move in time and take Gravity back to its
04:08original value of 3.
04:10You may also need to adjust the depth parameter to taste, but I think that
04:14we're fairly good here. So, if we move out in time, then our pieces continue to blow up.
04:19We can tweak this as desired, but I think we're getting the basic
04:24result here. So, let's go ahead and hit the Home key and preview the final result.
04:28Let me actually deselect this layer as well, there we go. Let's try this. Okay,
04:32so we've our car, it blows up, moves and then continues to explode. Now,
04:39we could play with the physics a little bit more here. I'm not sure I totally like
04:42the end result as far as the pieces kind of blowing off into space. These would
04:46be probably little bit more intense.
04:48Maybe we can even turn up the Strength, the Force 2, to make those blow up a
04:51little bit more intensely. But you get the idea that we've got a pretty nice
04:55result here. Now you might have also noticed that as this is blowing up,
05:00we're getting this ugly result here because the SUV layer actually only goes out to here.
05:05It's not the full size of our composition so we're only getting part of
05:09the shatter pieces.
05:10If we needed to fix that, we could add the Grow Bounce effect before the
05:14Shatter effect, so that the layer's boundaries would not limit the Shatter effect.
05:19Of course with a case study, there's a lot you can do to improve the
05:22situation, but my intention here just to show you a couple of different tricks
05:25using Time Warp and Shatter to achieve this kind of stop motion and then
05:30back in motion again effect.
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Turning a layer into 3D cards
00:01Back in Chapter 6, we looked at an effect called Card Dance, which turned your
00:05layer into a series of 2D cards that can be moved in 3D space. In this movie,
00:11I'm going to show you how to create this popular 3D Postcards Effect with 2D
00:15cards that can move in 3D space with a similar effect called Card Wipe.
00:20From my experience, Card Wipe is a lot easier to use than Card Dance as well.
00:24Let's just start out with the basics though. Let's go to the Simple Card Wipe
00:27composition and apply the Card Wipe Effect to the Magenta Solid. Now, the Card
00:34Wipe Effect is meant to be used as a transition, a transition from one layer to another layer.
00:40With its default settings you can't really tell what it's doing. So, open up
00:43Camera Position and increase or adjust Y Rotation and you could see that we're
00:49actually creating these 2D cards that flip in 3D space. I've another layer here
00:56on my composition, which is the Lime Green Solid. I could change the Back
00:59layer, in other words, the back of the cards from Magenta Solid to Lime Green Solid.
01:04I can also animate and adjust Transition Completion. So, at 0%, the layer is
01:10completely whole and then as I increase Transition Completion, the cards flip
01:14over to reveal whatever is on the other side. So, this is how you would use it
01:18in the traditional sense as it transitions from one clip to the next.
01:22But there's so much more you can do with this effect than just a transition.
01:26If I go down to the Bottom properties, Position Jitter and Rotation Jitter, we
01:31have two properties for every dimension. For X Jitter for example, we have a
01:36Mount and Speed. Now, if I hit the Home key and hit the Spacebar and preview
01:41this, you'll see there's no animation, we've set no keyframes, this effect is not auto animated.
01:45However, once you increase the Amount, let's say for example, Z Jitter Amount,
01:51then what we're starting to see is randomization in the Z Position. Even though
01:56we haven't set any keyframes yet, once you increase Amount, then the properties
02:02will auto animate using the Speed parameter.
02:04So, now if I go back and hit the Spacebar, we can see the Z Position auto
02:10animating or jittering. The Amount is how much towards you and farther away
02:15from you in the Z-axis can it go and the Speed refers to how fast it goes.
02:21If you just want to randomize their position in Z space, we could take Z Jitter
02:25speed down to 0 and the cards will stay where they are at.
02:29Now, there's a lot of cool uses for these cards, because they're in 3D.
02:35Let's go over to the Card Wipe Photos comp. I've created this Photos.psd layer.
02:39This is a compilation of photos that my wife and I have taken at various zoos and
02:45aquariums and museums in the Seattle area.
02:48I am going to go ahead and apply the Card Wipe Effect to this layer. We see it
02:52flipping. But what are the things I'm going to do, if you notice here, I've set
02:55up this grid with these photos, six down and six across. So, I'm going to
03:00change my rows and columns value, so here's the number of rows, we can make it
03:04a lot of rows or just a few rows.
03:06I'm going to change these rows and column settings to match how many cards or I
03:11have or how many photos I have in my grid. So, that's 6 for rows and 6 for
03:16columns. Now, you'll notice once we've done that that each one of these images
03:21matches up to a different card.
03:24So, that's like we now have created this series of 3D postcards. Now, let's say
03:30I take my Transition Completion to 0, I actually don't want to transition these
03:33at all. I just want them to be floating postcards in space. We could then go to
03:38Position Jitter, let's increase Z Jitter amount, so they kind of come at you and farther away.
03:44We could also animate them a little bit along the X-axis from left or right and
03:50along the Y-axis up and down. We could also go up and up Rotation Jitter if we
03:54want and animate their rotation jittering on the X-axis, the Y-axis or the
04:01Z-axis or all of them. Now, even though I haven't animated anything, all these
04:07properties are good to go.
04:08So, if I play this back, we have all this craziness happening in 3D space with
04:13little to know effort on our part. Now, in the next composition, I'm going to
04:16set this up a little bit more. What are the benefits of Card Wipe along with
04:20Shatter and a few other effects is that there's a camera system dropdown, so we
04:24not only get to use these camera position values, but we can change this Comp Camera.
04:29In that case, we'll use the composition's camera. So, once we do that, the
04:33Camera Settings are grayed out here, because we just moved the camera and the
04:36cards will follow suit. Hit the Home key and preview this and then we have
04:39these cards that kind of assemble and gather together here. But again, since
04:44we're using the Comp Camera, I can select the Camera layer, select one of the
04:48camera tools and just click and drag and Card Wipe is just as fully 3D effect, very cool!
04:57I can also right-click using the new Unified Camera tool, right-click and drag
05:02up and down to zoom in and out, use the middle mouse button to pan around and
05:07again the left mouse button to kind of spin around a little bit. Now if we
05:11select the Photos.psd layer, I've already animated some of these properties for
05:15you and you'll notice that Back layer has been set to this Animal Discoveries comp.
05:20I've got a little logo here, if I turn this on and solo it. I've got a little
05:24Animal Discoveries layer. I think that's kind of moves around like a little bit
05:27here, kind of verbally. So, I'll turn this layer off and so, I've set it so
05:33that the back of these cards is this Animal Discoveries layer.
05:37So, what we can do is go over here to where in these cards gather together and
05:41once the cards are kind of close together, let's say about there, we'll go over
05:44to Transition Completion, let's take this down to 0, click this stopwatch for
05:49Transition Completion and move out a little bit and then increase Transition
05:53Completion to 100%.
05:54So, basically what will happen is these 3D cards will be in 3D space, the
06:00camera kind of moves around them a little bit and then they rotate, come
06:04together and once they come together, they flip to end of their logo. It to be
06:09used for like a intro to a TV show or some other video presentation, it's kind
06:12of a cool effect, so let's hit the Home key and do a RAM preview of the final result here.
06:18So, the cards gather, flip around and there you go. Actually the flipping was
06:24way too quick. I was zoomed into my timeline a lot more than I thought I was,
06:29so hit the U key for Transition Completion here and let's go ahead and pull
06:33this out, so there's little bit more time that it takes to flip and preview
06:38that one more time.
06:40The 3D postcards come together and flip to reveal a logo. It's a very, very cool effect.
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Creating a lightsaber
00:00In this movie we're going to look at making the ever-popular light saber.
00:03We've talked about how to do this briefly in After Effects CS4 Essential Training,
00:07but we are going look at more detail here.
00:09I am going to start by applying the Beam effect, which is really going to be
00:13what gets us the results here to the light saber fight footage. You'll notice
00:17that by default Beam completely replaces whatever layer it's applied to.
00:21We could check Composite On Original here and now we have the Beam on the layer
00:26with the footage. I really prefer not to do that though. I'm going to delete
00:29the Beam effect. What I prefer to do always if I can help it is to apply the
00:33effect to a separate layer.
00:35So, I've created a Black Solid layer here. Although, it doesn't matter what
00:38color, because again, once you apply Beam to it. If you apply the Beam to Black
00:41Solid, it completely replaces that layer with the Beam.
00:44But now we have two separate independent layers that we can move around as we
00:48please, use blend modes, a whole bunch of other things. So I really prefer to
00:51do it this way. So here we have me and Paavo, great guy and we're having a
00:55little friendly sword fight. You know how that goes. I'm going to
00:58click-and-drag the left effect control point over to the bottom of the light
01:02saber here, and the right one which is the ending point, if you look over here
01:07in the Effect Controls panel, you could see that value moving around. Put the
01:10ending point at the tip of the light saber, and let's go ahead and increase the
01:14Length all the way to 100%.
01:17So, the length of the light saber goes from the top to the bottom. And what I'm
01:20going to do is get rid of the effects control points here. I'm going to click
01:23to deselect the effect, so I'm going to click here in a blank area in Effect
01:28Controls panel. Now, this seems to be a little off, so what you can do is hold
01:32down the Command key on the Mac or the Ctrl key on the PC and click-and-drag,
01:37let's say the left value, the X value for the Starting Point, and also the
01:42Ending Point, just to line those up to get those, so that they're a little bit more accurate.
01:46And I also want to raise the Starting Point, so we'd adjust the Y axis, the
01:51second value here. It looks like we're doing pretty good. We may want to
01:55increase the Ending Thickness, because right now it's kind of a little bit
01:58closer to the camera than the Starting Thickness is, so it should be a little
02:01bit bigger here at the top to make it look like it's coming out at us.
02:05We've fairly decent looking light saber at this point, but let's improve it.
02:08Now, there's an Inside Color and an Outside Color. The Inside Color is this
02:12kind of like bright pink and then the Outside glow is red. Now, obviously if
02:16you're familiar with Star Wars, you know that the color of your light saber, it
02:19tells a lot about the person. It's almost like the Star Wars version of a
02:22horoscope. Let's go to the Effects & Presets and instead of changing the color
02:26here, which would require us to change the Inside Color and Outside Color, I'm
02:30happy with the bright inside and the colored outside.
02:33So, what I'm going to do is apply the Hue/Saturation effect and now all we've
02:36to do is move the Master Hue and that will change the color of our light saber,
02:41whether we want it to be green or whether we want to be blue here. Or it could
02:45be Samuel L. Jackson's character, it can be purple if you would like. I'm just
02:48going to leave mine set to blue for the time being. And one more thing we can
02:53do here to make this look extra, extra cool is apply the Glow effect.
02:59We do that and we now have a better light saber. If you want to make the core a
03:05little brighter, we can click the Inside Color. I'll just take this little bit
03:08closer to white, which brightens up again the core of the light saber. We've
03:12some additional values here. We could play with Glow. We can decrease the
03:16Threshold so more of the light saber is glowing, and we can drag it to the
03:20right so that less of the light saber is glowing.
03:23I kind of like the default value somewhere around 60 or so. We could also
03:27increase the Glow Radius to make this glow little bit brighter. The more you
03:31spread out the glow, the less it's concentrated directly on the light saber
03:35itself. So I won't take that up too much. So again, somewhere around the
03:40default value of 10 is pretty good in this case.
03:42Now here is one of the big challenges I'm going leave you with. As we play this
03:46footage, you'll notice that Paavo and I actually have a light saber fight which
03:50is really cool. So what you'd want to do then, at that point is that as I move
03:54my light saber, then you'd want to animate my Starting Point so it matches the
03:59red marker here, at the beginning of my light saber. And we'll want to click
04:03the Ending Point and click that at the end of the light saber. And there we go.
04:08And you'd rotoscope this, animating it frame by frame by frame, which is really
04:12time consuming and really beyond the scope of this tutorial. But that's what
04:16you'd want do if you want to bring this to life.
04:18Now alternatively you could also -- actually let me go down here to
04:20Switches/Modes in the Timeline panel. Click the fx icon here in the Timeline to
04:24turn off all effects. And actually, I just turn off visibility of the Black
04:27Solid here. But we've these little red points and so if you wanted to, you
04:30could use the Tracking system in After Effects. Or you could use, say, Mocha
04:34for AE or something to track those red points, and then paste the tracking data
04:38into the Beam effect.
04:41But regardless, this tutorial is about how to create a light saber and I think
04:46we did a pretty good job of that. You are now ready to defend the galaxy,
04:50or at least doctor footage to make it look like you are.
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Making "whips" of light
00:01In this movie we're going to look at creating these cool whips of light that
00:04you see oftentimes in motion graphics, especially when it comes to like
00:07motivational or sales type stuff, things where you really want to wow and dazzle people.
00:12So we've this little motion graphics background here with some Fractal Noise,
00:15and this whip of light comes in. There are some sparkles from CC Particles
00:19Systems II, which we looked at earlier in this title, and some text and whatnot.
00:23But this light whip is what we are going to be making here.
00:26So let's go over with the Start composition and we have a single black solid,
00:32and I've put it in the Add blend mode so we're not seeing the actual solid
00:36itself, but it is here, trust me. And if we go over to Effects & Presets panel,
00:41let's do a search for the Vegas effect. Go ahead and apply that.
00:45Now the purpose of the Vegas effect is to kind of create that old styled Vegas
00:50marquee look where lights are kind going around in the circle. There is
00:54actually a lot of parameters here, so you can do a lot of other effects as well.
00:58Now Vegas works its magic by putting a stroke around either the contours of the
01:02image or around a mask. Now we're going to use a mask. So go ahead and select
01:08the layer and then pick one of the Mask tools, or you could use the Pen tool,
01:13if you are familiar with that. If you are not familiar with those, we'll cover
01:16those later in this chapter so you'll know what to do.
01:18But I could just click here and drag maybe an ellipse. I don't want the entire
01:24ellipse to be in the shot, I kind of want just like the outer ring to be in our shot.
01:30And if you want to move the ellipse around while you are dragging it,
01:33you could just hold the Spacebar to do that. So basically, I want this bottom lip
01:37of the ellipse to be the path that my light whip is going to travel. So I can
01:43move this around as I please. So then the whip of light will traverse this path
01:49through our shot here, right through the bottom.
01:52So now that we have a whip, we can go back to the Vegas effect, change the
01:55Stroke dropdown to Mask/Path. Now my only complaint about Vegas is that the
02:00default Color is yellow, which is also the default Color of Mask, and the Width
02:05is really small. So by default, you'll have a hard time usually seeing where
02:09the Stroke is on the Mask. So I'm going to take up the Width quite a bit here
02:15and I'm still not seeing anything, because I forgot that in the Mask/Path area
02:18we need to choose the actual path from the Path dropdown. So we need to select
02:21Mask 1 and here we have these streaks of light.
02:26And again you can kind of see the Vegas style marquee lights here because these
02:30lights actually go all the way around the path. Now these have an extra bit of
02:34glow to them, if I un-Shy the layers here. We'll see that, this adjustment
02:39layer is actually on top of the Vegas layer, the Whip layer that we are using.
02:44And so the colors are little bit different here. If I just solo this layer,
02:49you'll see what Vegas typically looks like. But the adjustment layer with the
02:52Glow is just so awesome looking. I got to keep that on.
02:55Now what I'm going to do here is come down to my options and adjust some of them.
03:00Width is probably little bit too big now. I can take this down to about
03:0310 or so. I really don't want a trail of lights here. We just want one long
03:07light. So I'm going to take the Segments from 32 to 1. Now you see, we have one
03:13longer Segment here, looks pretty good.
03:16And the way that we adjust where this Segment is, where the light is, along the
03:20path, is by adjusting Rotation. So we just bring this to life with Rotation.
03:25So if I start here maybe and then adjust it to animate downwards, then we are
03:30going to animate it, coming into our scene, and then going out of our scene.
03:34There is also some Opacity options where we could adjust the Start and End
03:39point Opacity, but I kind of like the default settings for this effect because
03:42we have this nice lowered Opacity tail that appears too fade out, looks really cool.
03:47Now you might also want to change the Length here. So if we drag this
03:50down at the left, make a smaller number, we are going to have a smaller whip of light.
03:55It's actually still probably a little bit too long because it's still taking up
03:58our entire shot in one fell swoop. So that looks to be a little better.
04:05So starting at the 1 marker, let's go ahead and start this whip of light off
04:09screen, I still see a little bit of it there, let's take it off a little bit more.
04:14I'm using a value of about -100 or so but it's going to completely vary
04:18based on how big your Mask is and where it's positioned.
04:21I actually want to back up my Current Time Indicator a little bit because this
04:251 marker is where I want the whip of light to collide with my sparkles. So I'm
04:30going back up a little bit and set a keyframe for Rotation. Then I'm going to
04:35go back to my marker by hitting the 1 on the main area of the keyboard, and
04:39I'll take my Rotation and move this down until it looks like it's about
04:44colliding with the sparkles and the glow there.
04:46And then we can move in time to when the text is on the screen. Here we've
04:50SALES. It kind of looks like a sales presentation, then I can move that
04:54completely off screen. Now what you might want to do as well is just have one
04:58keyframe from the beginning of the whip to the end of the whip, but if you want
05:02to keyframe in the middle there, you could slow things down or speed things up
05:04as it's going through the text. And that's essentially the trick, to create a whip of light.
05:10There is another couple of ways you can do this. For one, you could just simply
05:14create a line in After Effects or a regular path and then distort it with the
05:19Distort Effects. Now one of the ways that I use to create these background
05:23elements-- let's actually look at that real quick. I made some Fractal Noise
05:26and then stretched it out. And I made the Width really big here and the Scale
05:31Width values in the Fractal Noise. And then I added a Mask.
05:34So it was just these few lines, and then I brought them back to this
05:37composition and then bent them with the Warp effect. So you could actually use
05:41that same technique on a piece of Fractal Noise and then warp it and bend it
05:46until you get kind of like a whip of light look. And again as you could see
05:49here, I have applied a liberal dose of the Glow effect all over the place,
05:54which really makes this come alive and look more like a burning ball of light.
05:58So again, it is the blurs and the blend modes and the glows that's really
06:03making this come to life.
06:04I will hit the Home key and preview our final result. So to preview this, there
06:11is the final result little whip of light comes in and the text animates on it
06:15at the same time and the sparkles, all at the same time. And we've a background
06:18moving around. It creates a really cool look.
06:21These little whips of lights are really useful to lead the viewer's eye to
06:25something that's important. We have a lot going on here in our shot. But this
06:29whip of light tells the viewer exactly where their focus should be. And for
06:33that very reason it's great for things like titles or text that you really want
06:36to draw the user's attention to. Fun little trick with a lot of room to play around.
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Making silhouettes in After Effects
00:00In this movie we are going to look at creating the popular silhouette look in
00:04After Effects. This look is perhaps most recognizable from the original iPod
00:09commercials. But we also see it all over the place when used with vector art
00:12and all kinds of things. So this will be an introduction to that trick.
00:15I have some great footage here of this cute little girl spazzing out, rocking
00:19and rolling. And so what we are going to do is actually apply to her the Curves effect
00:25and again there are many ways to do this but to me this is the easiest.
00:29And then in Curves just grab the right hand point and we know that as we drag
00:35this down, we are making the brightest of the image much darker than
00:38it initially was and this bottom left hand corner is black.
00:42So if we drag the upper right hand corner, down all the way to the bottom then
00:46we'll have a flat line at the bottom, which will give us pure black. We'll put
00:51our cursor over here and you could see in the Info panel in the upper right
00:53hand corner of the screen up here that we are seeing 0, 0, 0 for R, G, and B,
00:58which means that we have a pure black image. And now when we preview this,
01:02we could see her dancing against a pink background just like she was in her own
01:07little iPod commercial.
01:08Now if we want to take this to the next step, we could select the layer and hit
01:11Command+D to duplicate it. And then we can actually move this out in time,
01:18maybe extend the end a little bit there. So we have multiple dancers and then
01:22we could move one of the dancers over to the side, maybe we could even scale
01:25this one down a little bit so she is kind of like a background dancer. And we
01:29could select that layer again, hit Command+D to duplicate that. Move it over to
01:34the other side as background dancers are want to do. And then again move this
01:39a little bit more in time and change that there.
01:44Now I have also added some Opacity keyframes, so that this fades out at the end
01:48so what we'll want to do is select these two layers, hit T for Opacity.
01:52So now what I want to do is click and drag a little marquee around these keyframes
01:56and then click and drag one of them to the right to move it over so that they
02:00line up with the layer beneath them here. I'll want to do that with these as well.
02:04Click and drag to marquee and then once you have selected, move them over.
02:08There we go. Now if we hit the Home key, we can preview our final product.
02:13(Music playing.)
02:22iSpaz. Beautiful.
02:24Now a couple other things you can do here. We could alternatively, let's see.
02:28We'll select this layer. Maybe we'll add the Ramp Effect. Another thing that's
02:32very common is not just to use live action footage and create a silhouette with it,
02:36but use still images and oftentimes you will have a whole gradient over
02:40that footage, maybe we could adjust this Ramp so it's a little bit more blended
02:45or whatever. But we often see the still images maybe like buildings, graffiti
02:49that have like this ramp in it just like of the lot of cool silhouettes used in bumpers all the time.
02:53It's a simple trick but it's pretty iconic and it's great when you are working
02:57maybe say for a certain brand that needs to have a lot of color identity and
03:01on top of that it just looks cool.
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Creating a background of animated bars
00:00So often when I'm working on a project, I find that I just need some kind of
00:04background texture, just something moving on the background that just looks kind of cool.
00:07So let's go ahead and apply Fractal Noise here. We are going to start from
00:11scratch. And this is a very simple texture. I would want to take the Noise Type
00:16to Block and already this is a really cool pattern as is. I mean with Fractal
00:21Noise you could pretty much just anything you throw at it and it's going to look
00:24kind of cool depending on how you colorize it and stuff.
00:27Let's go ahead and take the Complexity to 2 and let's open up Transform and
00:32uncheck Uniform Scaling. Now really the only two key ingredients here is that
00:38you take the Noise Type to Block and then you do what we are doing now with the
00:42scale controls. You don't necessarily have to adjust Complexity and you can
00:47adjust many other properties to create an even better result.
00:50Let's go ahead and scale Height really big. Now the slider only goes up to 600
00:55but we can actually take this number much higher. So click in that number and
00:58type in 5000, take down the Scale Width a little bit and come down here to
01:04Offset Turbulence. We get this seam right here that's not very attractive.
01:08So we can adjust Offset Turbulence, which is kind of like the equivalent of a
01:12position control for the Fractal Noise Effect. So we have the X Position and
01:17the Y Position, so we are going to take the Y Position and drag it to the left
01:21to raise that line up until we have now seamless bars, which look pretty cool.
01:27And again, feel free to add Contrast, brightness to taste.
01:31Now obviously, what we have to do now is colorize it. I want to show you kind
01:35of a cool way to colorize it. Again I'm giving you this technique, it helps at
01:40some time you are in pinch and you just have to pull something out of your hat
01:43real quick. This is kind of a quick way to do it.
01:45Also if you need to find a color scheme to go with it real quick as well, here
01:48is an accompanying trick. On the web, you can go to kuler.adobe.com and Kuler
01:55has all of these awesome color swatches that people have loaded. These great
02:00little themes from 3 to 5 color swatches usually where people can upload these
02:05color combinations.
02:07So there is loads here. We are looking through 331-340 out of 12,503 different
02:15color combinations. So there is a lot going on here. I'm going to pick this
02:18franky color combination, which looks pretty cool. If you want to see it
02:22bigger, you can click on it. And if you want to edit it, you can go back or
02:27click it again, and then click this little icon right here. If you want to
02:32change it, you can go to the color wheel. You actually get the RGB values and
02:36copy and paste them if you want. You can adjust the sliders. A lot you can do
02:39here to play with color.
02:41In this case I want to use these three colors on the ends and the one in the
02:46middle to colorize my Fractal Noise bars. So what I'm going to do is I'm going
02:50to go back to After Effects, I'm going to apply the Tritone Effect and then we
02:55have three colors here that we need to use. So I'm going to actually move After
02:59Effects out of the way and I could just use these eyedroppers to sample colors
03:05from here. If you want to you can even click the color swatch, open up the
03:09color picker and use that eyedropper. And you could actually get a dynamic view
03:13of what that looks like.
03:14So I'm going to use this far right color, the brightest one for the highlights
03:18and then it automatically goes back to Firefox you can do that or your web
03:21browser. I'm going to go to After Effects, click OK. Open up Midtones, do the
03:25same thing. Pick the center color, go back to After Effects, click OK and
03:31finally click on the Shadows Color Swatch. Click on the eyedropper, click on
03:36the dark color swatch, go back to After Effects. And click OK. And maximize
03:41After Effects, and there we go. We have a really nice color scheme.
03:45All you have to do now to bring these bars to life is to animate the evolution
03:49property. And instantly we have a really cool background with a very nice color
03:53scheme and we were bailed out of a pinch, thanks to the ease of Fractal Noise and Kuler.
Collapse this transcript
Creating an "army"
00:01In this movie we are going to take some sweet footage from greenlayers.com,
00:04this cool military guy here. And we are going to create an army out of him. Now
00:09I realize that probably didn't sound like all that much because basically just
00:13duplicate the guy many times, right.
00:15Well, there is a few tricks here that maybe you haven't thought of that I want
00:18to go through with you. Now this clip right here, the movie clip, this is the
00:22footage that we are going to be dealing with, again from greenlayers.com.
00:25And let's just preview this clip and see what we got here. We kind of go in the
00:28slow motion but basically this guy is stepping here, he turns from the side to
00:32face you, he steps, and he salutes, and then he puts his arm down.
00:36That's pretty much the clip right there.
00:38Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to duplicate this clip and create a row
00:41of these guys. But it's important that we use him facing forward and not one of
00:47the profile frames, because he is thinner in his profile than he is facing you.
00:53So we don't want to use this as a guide then have our figures a little bit too close together.
00:57So let's go to about here, select the layer and then hit Command+D on your
01:03keyboard if you are on a Mac or Ctrl+D on the PC, and duplicate this five times.
01:07One, two, three, four, five. That makes a total of six layers. Then drag
01:14the top copy over to the left and put him proportionately on the left where
01:19this guy is on the right, about the same amount of space away from the edge.
01:25Next, select all the military guys, click the top layer, Shift-click the bottom
01:29military guys, so all six are selected. Then go over to the Align panel.
01:33You can get the Align panel out from the Window menu, if it's not showing here.
01:37And let's go ahead and do a vertical center alignment which will make sure that I
01:42didn't mess this guy up around as I was dragging him and that they have the
01:44same vertical position.
01:46Next, just go down to Distribute Layers area and click this button, horizontal
01:50center distribution, which will evenly distribute these guys from the far right
01:55to the far left. So now this is pretty cool. We got six guys here, all stepping
01:59in unison, our little mini army or at least a mini mob at this point.
02:04Now what we want to do is start adding some random variations to these.
02:08They look too fake because they are all doing the exact same thing. They look the
02:12exact same way. Now one of the biggest dead giveaways is the face. But we are
02:18not going to take the time to adjust that. Although, you could go in with maybe
02:21Liquefy or some other tool and kind of play with those facial structures a
02:24little bit so they are six unique looking characters.
02:27But here is a couple of things we can do. I'm going to select the second clip over.
02:31That will be this guy right here, located right here, second layer up.
02:35And we are going to add Hue/Saturation to this guy and we'll play with the Hue
02:39just a little bit. You see if you do it too much, it turns this into that
02:43girl from Willy Wonka that ate the blueberry stuff. We don't want that.
02:46So just a little bit more red in his face. You might want to do that to a couple other guys as well.
02:52Just randomly pick a few guys and turn their skin a little bit different color,
02:56so it's not all exactly the same. Maybe we change the Saturation. I've kind of been
03:01doing it to every other guy here, so let's just go one layer up and apply some
03:05more color correction to the guy next to him, this guy right here. And again,
03:10we can desaturate him, making him kind of pale whitish.
03:14Now that we have played with their color little bit let's add a Levels
03:17adjustment to a few of these guys to adjust their brightness. Let's start with
03:21the top layer, which is the guy on the far left here. Apply Levels and
03:25you could drag the center slider around to make his uniform little bit darker or
03:29lighter. Just slightly lighter is good. Slightly different. Well, let's just go
03:34ahead and randomly apply Levels, darkening uniforms, and also again randomly
03:41lighten then as well. It's looking pretty good.
03:45Now let's go through and randomly add some variation to their sizes. So you can
03:50go in to their Scale properties, unlink them, maybe make some guys like a little
03:54bit wider, or more narrow. You got to be careful with this. Only a couple of
03:57degrees is legal before it starts looking kind of cartoony. But we have
04:01that ability to go in and let's make this guy a little bit taller. There we go.
04:05I have to readjust that accordingly and make one guy just universally smaller.
04:12Maybe 73% here and bring him down so his feet line up. And let's go in here
04:20and make this guy universally bigger. Make the guy next to him a little bit
04:24shorter. Let's make the guy in the middle a little bit taller and we'll call it
04:30a day in that department.
04:32Now one last variation here, it's probably most important but thankfully it's
04:36also the fastest. Now we want to vary them in time. So right now they are all
04:42perfectly in sync which totally gives this away. So what we want to do is grab
04:46this clip and drag this to the left, so that they are all kind of starting at
04:49different times. Now they are soldiers so we don't want them to be too off or
04:54it's going to be super fake and hocky and obvious. So you want to be careful
04:58with that. But if they are all off a few frames then see how it's just going
05:01to stagger there? It just makes it look a little bit more human and believable. Very good.
05:06Now, okay, so the hard stuff is over. Now lets pre-compose these guys. Go ahead
05:11and select the top layer of the army guy and then Shift-click the bottom one,
05:16and pre-compose these layers by using the keyboard shortcut Command+Shift+C on
05:22the Mac or Ctrl+Shift+C on the PC. I'm going to call this PRECOMP bunch of
05:29dudes and now we have this one layer of guys that we can move around as one whole.
05:36And you can see the power of this. I'm going to hit Command+D and duplicate the
05:40PRECOMP and now when we move the PRECOMP, we can select the layer beneath, hit the
05:44S for the Scale property and then shrink this down so we actually have now
05:49another row of guys. We could even add Levels to these guys and make them all
05:55darker so they appear to kind of go in the background a little bit more.
05:59And do that again. Duplicate that layer and on this back layer of Levels,
06:04make them even darker. And scale them down even more. Now obviously, if we had more
06:09time here, we could go in and randomize these things. It doesn't look super
06:12great how all their skin tones kind of match the guy behind them, because that
06:15probably wouldn't be the way they would line up in the military. But for the
06:19purpose of this tutorial, that looks pretty good.
06:20Now what I want to do is add a final touch here. We could obviously keep
06:25duplicating this and make a much bigger army, than just the 18 military guys we
06:29have right now. But what I want to do is show you something else. I'm going to
06:32put all these layers into 3D and then we can create a new camera. We can
06:37go to the Layer menu > New Camera. Click OK here. Then I'll select all of
06:42these layers and hit the letter P for Position.
06:46Now let's offset them in Z space. Grab Z position, first for the front guys here.
06:51Take this to a negative number. I'm going to use about -80 or so. And for
06:56the next layer, we could probably just leave them where they are. Maybe take it
06:59to about -20 or so. And for the last row, we can move that up in space, to about +30 or so.
07:07Now if we grab the Camera layer and select the Unified Camera tool, then you
07:12could see that we can move around here and we have this 3D army of guys. And
07:18again, these aren't still images. This is actually movie footage. So we could
07:21zoom our camera around here and we could pan around them, especially their legs,
07:26while they are doing their exercises or whatever.
07:28And we can click with the right-click, if you have a 3-button mouse, and zoom
07:33in with our camera. You can also use the middle mouse button to move the camera down.
07:38And if you are just looking at their feet, you can't really see their
07:40faces. It's even more believable. It's really a great look and again as we
07:45preview this, seeing them all move, not quite in unison, it's just a really cool thing.
07:52So feel free to animate this and take this to the next level on your own time
07:56and also look for other ways that you can randomize these characters to make it
08:01more believable that you actually have footage of an entire army.
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9. Advanced Animation
Adjusting speed in the Graph Editor
00:00In the next few chapters we're going to start looking at some advanced
00:03animation techniques, and in my mind, this is one of the best parts of After
00:07Effects. This is where After Effects really starts to come to life because it
00:10allows you, once you know these advanced animation techniques, to bring things
00:14to life in a much more organic and realistic way.
00:17In this movie and in the next movie as well, we're going to look at the Graph Editor,
00:21which is really where advanced animation takes place, especially when
00:24you're not using expressions. There are really two types of adjustments we do
00:28in the Graph Editor, speed and value. In this movie we're going to focus on speed;
00:32in the next movie we'll focus on value.
00:35I have here this jet that I've animated. It starts from the bottom right-hand
00:38corner and flies off to the upper left- hand corner. It's kind of cool.
00:43It's a Thunderbird jet, courtesy of the United State Air Force. So it flies up and
00:48then at the very end, it kind of looks like it's going to spin and do one of
00:50those cool flashy maneuvers in the sky.
00:53So what we want to do is make this animation have a little bit more life to it.
00:57It kind of just has a constant speed. It's kind of boring. Ideally, what I'd
01:01like it to do is start slower and then go faster, as it starts to go into this
01:05roll at the end. So let's go ahead and open up the Graph Editor by clicking
01:08this button here in the Timeline panel.
01:11Now, by default, we can't see anything, so let's go ahead and click Position to
01:16select it, and then we could see its velocity curve. Actually, you want to
01:20double-check and make sure its velocity curve, as it might not be. So go to
01:23this little button right here, then choose Graph Type and Options dropdown, and
01:28select Edit Speed Graph, if it's not selected already.
01:31Now, this graph tells us the speed of our object. If you have a horizontal
01:36line, like we do here, it means that the speed is constant over time. There are
01:41no changes in the speed. One of the toughest things you get used to about the
01:45graph editors, especially when you're working with the speed graph, is it's
01:49hard not to get confused with position, because we see the position changing.
01:54We see it going from the bottom right to the upper left, but its speed is
01:59constant over time.
02:01Typically, this means, boring animation. So here is how we're going to fix this.
02:07What I'm going to do is I'm going to grab this left dot, and these two
02:11dots represent the keyframes. Again, the first one is the bottom right of the
02:15airplane when it's down here, and the second one in the upper left, when it
02:18gets to its final destination.
02:20As you could tell about the graph right here, on the left-hand side, it's just
02:23telling us how fast the plane is going. It's going about 300 pixels per second
02:28right now. Well, I actually want this to start slower. So I'm going to click
02:32this first keyframe and bring it down.
02:36Now again, we're not changing the value of the keyframe. Now, as I'm
02:41clicking-and-dragging this, you might be saying, well, if you look at the
02:44position over here. It seems like you're changing the value of the keyframe.
02:47But I'm really not. If I hit the Home key, where I'm over this keyframe that
02:52I'm changing, you'll see there is no change in the value. What it's doing is
02:56it's changing the interpolation between keyframes.
03:00So where it starts and stops, and even when it starts and stops, it's not being
03:04altered in any way, shape or form. It's only the path in between that is
03:09changing. So now, by dragging this keyframe down, we've slowed down the
03:14beginning of this animation. So instead of starting at 300 pixels per second,
03:18it now starts at 0 pixels per second and quickly picks up speed.
03:23As I mentioned, the more horizontal the line is, the less of a change there is
03:27in speed; the more vertical the line is, the more drastic the change in speed.
03:32So let's go ahead and hit the Home key and we'll do a RAM preview of this by
03:37hitting 0 on the numeric keypad and give that just a couple of seconds to
03:41render out here and we'll preview and see what we've got.
03:45It's pretty good, little bit more interesting. It starts slower and then speeds up.
03:49I want to get more intense here. So what I'm going to do is I want to
03:52click-and-drag on this handle for this keyframe, I'm going to drag this to the
03:57right, which increases the influence of the keyframe.
04:02By increasing the influence of this handle, we're basically saying we want to
04:06delay the time before it gets to the next value. So again, it's steep if we
04:12keep it to the left and it's slower if we get to the right. So basically it's
04:16going to start out a little bit more slowly. Then as you could see here, it's
04:19going to ramp up and then we have this little hump thing we've got to worry
04:23about. Because it's going to go faster and then kind of slow down as it rests
04:26to this eventual resting spot down here.
04:28So, let's go ahead and preview that right now and see what we got, and it's
04:34going and then it speeds up right about then, and then it's going to slow down
04:40at the end, which is bad, but, okay. It's definitely starting out slow and it's
04:45staying slower for longer, which is okay.
04:48Now one of the things you could use as a helper while you're working here is by
04:52looking at these dots on the motion path. This only works for position. But it
04:56still can be a helper nonetheless. The closer these little dots are, it means
05:01that the animation is going slow right here. These dots represent the individual frames.
05:05So as these dots are closer together, that's telling us that the jet has a
05:09shorter distance to go from frame to frame. Now later on in the animation up
05:14here, we could see these dots. In other words, the frames are farther apart.
05:18So the jet has farther to go from frame to frame. So this indicates the animation
05:22is going faster in this area of the animation.
05:25So you could kind of visually see, where it's going slow, where it's going a
05:30little bit faster and where it's really starting to pick up some speed. Now one
05:34of things we could do too is go here to the right-hand keyframe and drag this
05:38upwards to increase the velocity there.
05:41In this case now, it's gradually increasing speed throughout the animation.
05:44So hit the Home key and preview that, and there isn't any real burst of speed like
05:50we were kind of initially looking for, but all the same, it's going to
05:53increasingly go faster throughout the animation. It's not too shabby.
05:59Now if we want to start really, really slow, and then have a big burst of
06:04speed, we want to drag this influence handle, so we have a more flat line here
06:09on the left-hand side, and then we want to have a super big spike, somewhere in here.
06:14Again, I could drag this right- hand keyframe up a little bit if I need to.
06:19You also notice how the graph automatically readjusts itself once you drag the
06:23keyframe upwards. Initially, we're looking at 0 to 300 pixels per second. Now,
06:28we're looking at 0 to 1,000 pixels a second. That's that you don't have to keep
06:31scrolling up forever, so you can see your entire graph.
06:35Okay. So let's hit the Home key and preview the result of this curve. We know
06:40it's going to start out and go slow for a long time, probably slower than it's
06:43realistic in this instance, but then it's going to rear up really fast. So it's
06:47going to start slow, boom, starts taking off.
06:51So, you can see the difference that it makes when you have these Curves. I've
06:55seen a lot of animators use millions of little keyframes, and that's really not
06:59the best way to do things. If we had several keyframes, throughout the process
07:03of this animation and we wanted to change them, that'll be really tedious. But
07:07if you just have these Curves that you're playing with, you could just grab
07:10them and change a lot in the animation, just by tugging on one of these handles.
07:14Practically, all advanced animations programs, even in the 3D world, work with
07:18these types of Curves. That's just how advanced animation is done. Let's look at
07:23one other example of a common use for this Graph Editor here. Turn on the Ball
07:28layer. We have a simple ball animation here. It's a bouncing ball, your standard fare.
07:35I've created three keyframes here, if we select the ball layer and hit the
07:38letter U, you'll see those, and boy, talk about a boring animation. I've not
07:43done anything magical with these keyframes as you can blame me to, and it just
07:47goes up and down and back up again.
07:50Now I realize that this is kind of clich?. You see bouncing balls in every
07:54animation test ever, right? The reason is because if you could make a ball
08:00realistically bounce, then you've got some animation skills. So trust me, this
08:04skill is a good one to have. Let's go into the Graph Editor and click that
08:08position property so we can see what's going on here.
08:11We have two different horizontal lines. We have one horizontal line that
08:15indicates the speed of the ball falling, and then a separate speed, which is
08:20actually a little bit slower than the first because you could tell it's lower
08:23with the ball going back up again.
08:25So here's how we animate a bouncing ball. What we need to do is click on these
08:31keyframes in the center, and we want them to be a spike like this. The reason
08:37why is because when you bounce a ball, it starts out slow when it's falling, it
08:41gets a lot of speed as it falls, as it gets close to the ground. It bounces,
08:45and as it's bouncing as it's coming back up, it has a big spike of speed, and
08:50then it slows down as it gets to the top of the crust again.
08:53So again, we wanted to go basically slow and then really fast and then slow
08:58again, and this kind of spike look is exactly what we were looking for. We want
09:02to start out slow and then really fast as it bounces and then slow again. Now
09:07this isn't perfect, because all I've done is just kind of willy-nilly, dragged
09:10to this center point up, but let's see what we've got so far.
09:12It's not going as fast as it needs to, looking okay, but let's go ahead and
09:17drag these points up much farther. So let's go to maybe 500 pixels a second, or
09:22maybe 1,000 pixels a second. It is going to get a little bit fast, but I'm not
09:27driving, here we go, boom! So now it's starting to look a little bit more believable.
09:31Now you'll notice this. As it's bouncing, watch the ball, it bounces up, and
09:39then it all of a sudden, as it's going slower, gets faster at the end. So it's
09:44going slow and then there is kind of like this weird pull of motion at the last
09:48second. But if we look at the speed curve, we could see where that's happening.
09:51It kind of ramps up again at the end and we don't really want that. So I'm
09:55going to grab this keyframe and drag it downwards. I'll do the same thing with
09:59the beginning. If we want a more intense spike, we can grab the influence
10:03handles on the left and right sides and drag these in if we so choose,
10:08definitely a lot of Wiggle room for playing around with.
10:11But as you could see, we're getting a little closer here. Let's try taking this
10:15spike one last time, a little bit farther here. This is a really intense spike,
10:20but now, it's starting to look more organic and realistic here. Let me center
10:25this so we can see what's going on a little bit better.
10:28It's starting to be a little bit more realistic of a bounce. Probably, even
10:32make this look a little bit better by turning on Motion Blur for the comp and
10:35then for the layer and let's preview how that looks. That's looking good!
10:41Now one last word of advice on this subject. Maybe it's just my opinion, but I
10:46prefer to overdo things a little bit rather than underdo things. So, in other
10:51words, if we're bouncing this ball animation, I would have it go little bit too
10:54fast, then a little bit too slow.
10:57The reason why is it's tough to get things to animate very quickly, and often
11:02animators, even really big bucks animators, the ones that work in Hollywood on
11:06big CGI things for Hollywood feature films and stuff, they tend to animate a
11:11little bit too slowly. As animators we're used to laboriously going over frame by
11:17frame, 30 seconds in one frame, going over every single little frame of our work.
11:22But in real life, if you're going to swat a fly, you're probably moving a lot
11:26faster than 30 frames a second. It's almost like an instant. So for my money,
11:30it's almost better to exaggerate motion, to have them go a little bit faster
11:35than you might think they need to go.
11:37But the one thing I can tell you, folks, is you need to get good at this Graph
11:41Editor if you're going to be an animator. I could also tell you that you're
11:44going to want to know Disney's principles of animation that we're going to
11:46cover in the next chapter, so you know how to apply all these Graph Editor
11:50skills that we're learning.
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Adjusting value in the Graph Editor
00:00Not only can you adjust speed in the graph editor, but you could also adjust
00:04values for any property as well. I'm also going to show you why you'd want to do that.
00:09Now our example you might remember from the last chapter, we created this cool
00:14light whip that came in and this text kind of came on, but I wasn't really
00:18happy with the way the light whip animated. Just kind of lackluster.
00:22A uniform speed here, kind of boring.
00:25So what we're going to do is spice things up a little bit. What I wanted to do
00:29is I wanted to come in here and whip in, and then once the text starts on, right there,
00:34I want the light whip to hit it and go really slowly through it and then continue on.
00:42This is a real challenge, if you're just trying to edit the speed using the
00:46graph editor. But it's not too tough if you're using the value side of the
00:49graph editor. Now I'll show you that this can be done with any property, not
00:52just the standard transform like position and scale and rotation like stuff.
00:56We're going to be using the rotation property in the Vegas effect.
01:00That's really what we have animated here. Now unlike what we saw with editing speed in
01:04the graph editor in the last movie, we actually are going to change values here.
01:09That's the whole purpose that we're doing this.
01:12So paste in and know what our values are. We're starting at a positive value of
01:15282 degrees with rotation and then animating to a negative 70 degrees.
01:20That being said, let's go ahead and open up the Graph Editor and make sure under
01:25this dropdown here that we're seeing the Edit Value Graph is checked, not Edit Speed Graph.
01:30And then select Rotation property for the Vegas effect and we could see here,
01:34there is a linear animation. It's going straight from our value of 282 to
01:39negative 70. So what I'm going to do here is I'm going to click and drag my
01:43Current Time Indicator until the time that I want it to animate and stop right
01:49there and this frame right here again is where I want the light whip to stop,
01:54and then go slowly for a time.
01:56In order to do that, we need to change the value here. We could do this by
02:00changing the value here. But it's easier to do it with this line right here
02:03actually. So what we're going to do is create a new keyframe by going to the
02:07Pen tool and then clicking on the line where the current time indicator is.
02:12Now I'm going to hit the letter V on my keyboard to go back to the Selection tool.
02:16Even if we go back to the regular Editor Timeline, you see again,
02:19we've made a new keyframe. Now what I'm going to do is click and drag this keyframe
02:23upwards, because it's not at the right spot. So I'm going to drag this upwards
02:29changing the value until the beginning of this light whip gets in the right spot.
02:34Now because of what we're looking in terms of resolution here,
02:38the low-res preview that you get while you're dragging is not even close to accurate.
02:42So even though this is about the right value, I let go and then it snaps to the
02:47right spot. Whereas before when I'm just dragging for a preview, I let go right here,
02:51it's way up in the upper left hand corner of the screen. So you might
02:53want to be careful about that.
02:55Now what I want to do is change the curvature of this line here. So far we just
02:59had linear keyframes and we're just changing the value, no big deal. But in
03:03order to get the effect that we're looking for, where it just kind of pauses or
03:06goes really slowly across the word Inspire while it's kind of being built here,
03:11we need to call in help of Curves.
03:13So what we could do is go back to the Graph Editor and change the Interpolation
03:19of this keyframe, or while it's selected here, we can simply click for example
03:22Easy Ease, or if you want to get really specific what we're doing is changing
03:27this to Easy Ease Out. We just want to deal with this right side of the
03:30keyframe. Now just as with this speed editor, a horizontal line means no change.
03:36So if we want this to kind of go slowly here, we'll want this line for those
03:41frames to be more horizontal. Now sometimes this kind of thing happens where
03:47you move the handle and everything just kind of freaks out. So you could hit
03:51Command+Z or Ctrl+Z on the PC to undo it, and if you try it again and the same
03:56thing happens, what you could do is go up to the Pen tool and hold the Alt key
04:01or the Option key on the Mac, and you'll get this little arrow called the
04:05Convert Anchor Point tool, and then you can drag and then have a little bit more
04:10control individually over these handles.
04:13Once they're broken, you'll find that you could adjust them independently,
04:16which is really what you want to do. I'll go ahead and hit the letter V on the
04:19keyboard to switch back to the regular Selection tool. So now again you can see
04:23what we're doing here. From the first two keyframes, nothing much has really
04:27changed, and we could move this little handle here to make sure really nothing has changed.
04:31But then as it hits the text, it slows down and then after the text comes on,
04:38it goes away very quickly. Now before we actually do a preview of this,
04:42I'm going to back up in frames and make sure that by the time this text is on,
04:46right about there, maybe here, that the light whip is actually connecting
04:50with the text. So what I might need to do is call on the help of this last
04:55keyframe to adjust this frame.
04:57Maybe I could just drag this to the left a little bit more. Let's go ahead
05:02and preview this and see what we've got. So as we preview it, the light whip
05:06comes in and it hits the text, it slows down, but it doesn't slow down enough
05:12and it doesn't disappear fast enough. So what we need to do is go over to this
05:16keyframe and select Easy Ease In.
05:19So that way we have a handle to adjust this side of the curve. So I'm going to
05:23pull the direction handle on the second keyframe to the left and now maybe
05:27I'll go back to this top direction handle and pull these out and that's
05:32exactly what we're looking for right about there, a curve that looks like this.
05:36Now let's go ahead and preview this one more time. So now our light whip comes in,
05:42it hits the text, it slows down considerably, and then flashes away as soon
05:48as the text comes on. So it goes fairly quick here. Actually we probably want
05:53to even speed that up, but it comes in and then it slows down. Look at that.
05:58Frame by frame, it's going really slow through that text. Almost just hits it,
06:02and almost pauses, but just goes very, very slowly, and as soon as the text
06:06comes on, boom, it's just gone.
06:09So again, just as with the speed graph, a horizontal line needs not that much
06:13changed. So the way we got it to go slowly through these few frames is by
06:17having a more horizontal line. Then we wanted to get rid of the light whip
06:21really quick and so we have this more vertical line, which says hey, get the
06:25heck out of here in quick style. And so here we see the benefit of using the
06:30graph editor for adjusting values. Instead of sitting here and manually
06:34changing all the keyframes here, we just turned a couple curves here and then
06:38have After Effects do all the really hard work for us.
06:42This is all totally non-destructive as well. We could go in here if we wanted to
06:46change anything in this curve. If we had a bunch of keyframes here we would be stuck,
06:49but because we're using Curves, we could just tug on one of these
06:52handles to make our changes. And if you really, really, really mess up, you can
06:56go back to the Graph Editor and hold the Command key down or Ctrl key on the Mac
07:00and take these back to these diamond shapes. In other words, linear
07:05interpolation and then you'll have these straight lines again and you can
07:09start all over again with the Curves if you would like.
07:10Now if you're feeling a little overwhelmed and confused after the last couple
07:15movies on the graph editor, that's totally normal. This is not one of those
07:18types of things like the Puppet tool that you watch a tutorial on for five
07:22minutes and you just get it.
07:23It's one of those things that takes a long time of practice. So think of it
07:26more like a painting where you're getting a big skill, rather than one single
07:31tool or helper. What I really hope you get out of these two movies is that the
07:36graph editor is worth mastering. It makes your animations more full of life,
07:41than any other practical means in After Effects.
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Animating with the puppet tools
00:00Okay, the last couple of movies were a little bit challenging to the old brain.
00:04So we're going to lighten things up a little bit and talk about some
00:07of the additional puppet tools. In After Effects CS4 Essential Training,
00:10we looked at the puppet Pin tool, which we used to deform 2D layers.
00:14In this we're going to look at the Puppet Overlap and the Puppet Starch tools.
00:18Now in this first example, we have a little robot here named Herbie. I've used
00:21him a lot in my training throughout the year. It's a little robot I made in 3ds Max.
00:25He's getting a old though, so we're going to retire him. In this movie,
00:29I replaced him with Eddie Technology, a new robot that I have made in another 3D program, Cinema 4D.
00:35So we're going to retire Herbie here. So we have this dance party for him.
00:38Now let's preview that and see what it looks like. Nice. So we're going to send
00:47Herbie out in style. Now as we scrub this animation, we could see that when his
00:51hands overlap, I want his hands to go in front of him. But one hand actually
00:56goes behind his body and another one goes in front and also if you look
01:00really closely, sometimes his hands actually cuts through the body layer.
01:04There are a few extra pixels there.
01:05Now this really isn't After Effects' fault, because when I deformed the puppet pins,
01:09it's basically a 2D layer folding over itself. So what we need to do to
01:15control how this 2D layer overlaps itself is to apply overlap pins.
01:19So I'm going to go back to the first frame, and I'm going to select the robot layer,
01:24and I'm going to select the Puppet Overlap tool, which will allow me to create overlap pins.
01:28Now when you're creating overlap pins, they kind of give you a guide here,
01:31these little yellow Xs, these are where you put the deform pins. Now you can't
01:36adjust him from here while you're creating overlap pins. This is just kind of
01:39for reference. But I want to put some at his hands. Notice that the overlap pins
01:44are blue to distinguish them from the deform pins. Now when you create a pin
01:49and it's selected, you can go up to the top on the Options bar and you have a couple choices.
01:54You have the In Front value and the Extent. So if I take the only Extent,
01:58it controls how much of the object is being influenced by this overlap pin.
02:03Since we want to influence the whole torso, I have taken it up to about 80 or so.
02:09You wanted the same thing on the arms. Select the overlap pin for the arms.
02:12Again, take it to about 80, so the arm is covered, but not too much more than that.
02:17Now the In Front value is what determines what is in front and it's actually
02:22pretty easy. Whatever overlap pin has a higher value, that part of the object
02:27will be in front. So in this case I want Herbie's right arm, the one on our
02:32left side to be in front the most. So I've got to take the In Front value to,
02:37let's say 75. Now this could be one or two or whatever, but since the default
02:41value is 50. I usually do things kind of relative to that.
02:45So let's go up to 75. You could make it 51 if you like. And then I'm going to
02:49select his left hand, which is the one on our right, and take that to anything
02:52below 75. I'm just going to use 50 and if we want both of these arms to be in
02:58front of the torso, so in order for the torso to be behind both hands, that
03:04needs to have a lower In Front value than any of the hands. So this hand has a
03:08value of 75 and his left hand has a value of 50. So as long as again this
03:15torso point is below 50, then it will be fine.
03:19Right now it's set to 32, so we'll just leave it there. That's fine. So now I'm
03:22going to hit the letter V to get the selection tool. I always like having that
03:25tool selected. So in case I click somewhere on accident, it doesn't mess me up.
03:29And I'm going to deselect the layer and now we can preview this and see what
03:33it looks like with the arms overlapping correctly.
03:37(Dance music plays.)
03:43So now as we play this back, we could see Herbie more fully shaking his money
03:48maker and it just looks cooler because his hands overlap. And again, notice
03:52how his right hand is in front of his left hand and his left hand is in front
03:57of his torso. That's exactly how we set those up based on their In Front
04:01values. If I wanted his left hand in front, then I need to make it something above 75%.
04:08So with that we'll thank Herbie for sharing his dance talents with us and we'll
04:12go over to the Starch pins comp. Now what we're going to do is I'm going to hit
04:16the Home key and I'm going to select the Head Beard layer. There are a few
04:19layers here, there are some Eye layers, and a Mustache layer, and the Hat layer.
04:23But I want to play around with here is the beard right here of the
04:27wizard, which is actually attached to his face. Now let me show you the problem
04:30before we get to the puppet Starch tool and the solution there.
04:33I am going to click on his beard with the Puppet Pin tool. Maybe put one on
04:37his beard and one on his mustache, one over by his ear there. Maybe one by
04:43his forehead, and as I then go and grab the one on his beard and move this
04:47around, we see that his eyes are moving a lot, his nose is moving a lot,
04:52the back of his hair is just going crazy there, and so we want to make it so that
04:57we can move his beard as if it was blowing in the wind or maybe he is talking
05:00or something. And so the Puppet Starch tool is the perfect candidate for the job here.
05:04I'm going to undo that with Command+Z. Then I'm going to go to the Tools panel,
05:09and select the Puppet Starch tool, and I'm going to place a couple of pins here.
05:13One by his forehead, the back of his head, and probably this crazy hair back here.
05:17Now just as with the overlap pins, we have an Extent value here to determine
05:21how far the reach of that pin is. So I want to select the Starch pins and
05:26increase the Extent. So a lot of this stuff is covered. And actually I want to
05:31make sure the back of his head is covered too. So I'm going to select the back
05:33of his hair, and increase Extent until that's covered also. Now with each
05:37starch pin, notice that they're red as well. Just like the deformed pins are
05:41yellow and overlap pins are blue, starch pins are red.
05:43We also have an amount and that allows us to control how much stiffness is
05:49used for each pin. If we take this down to a low value, and the default is 15%,
05:53which is actually fairly low. Then this will move still a little bit, but not as much.
05:58But if we really crank this amount value, then these pixels aren't
06:02going anywhere. That's kind of what I want here. Also notice that as I increase
06:07the amount value for a starch pin, the polygon around it become more opaque.
06:13So now I could go switch back to the Puppet Pin tool and now watch as I move
06:18these pins around, the head is not moving in any way, shape, or form. The back
06:23of the hair is not moving. Everything has been anchored down. So the starch
06:28pins give you the capability to lock pixels down and make sure that while
06:32you're deforming the layer with the deform tools, that other pixels you don't
06:35want to move don't move. Or maybe that they move less than they normally would.
06:40So there you have it, folks. Using the puppet overlap pins with the puppet
06:44starch pins make the Puppet tools a complete suite of animation goodness.
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Extending and shortening entire animations
00:00Now, sometimes when you create an animation, you get everything setup perfect,
00:04your keyframes are exactly the way you want them. A lot of times you might need
00:07to lengthen or shorten the entire animation. There is actually a great fix for
00:12that using something called roving keyframes. That's what we're going to look at in this movie.
00:16So we've created this animation here of a wedding ring going down the toilet,
00:21but you'll notice that the toilet flushes a little before the wedding ring gets
00:25started. It'd be really simple if I could just move all these keyframes over,
00:30which I can do by just clicking-and-dragging a marquee around them and just moving them around.
00:33That's actually not what I want to do, I want to keep the keyframes at their
00:38relative distance from each other, but just make this happen over more frames.
00:43So the way that we're going to fix this is by clicking-and-dragging a marquee
00:46around the inside keyframes.
00:49So we know that this trick doesn't work with just a couple of keyframes;
00:52you need to group like this so you can select the keyframes in between the first
00:56and last ones. Once you've selected, right- click on them and select Rove Across Time.
01:03Now once they become roving keyframes, you won't want to access individual
01:07keyframes, but you don't have to. What I can do is click-and-drag, because I
01:10want this to start when the toilet starts flushing. So when I click this first
01:15keyframe and drag this over to the left, notice how all the keyframes,
01:20they don't drag over, they extend proportionately.
01:24So, now the keyframes still keep their relative distance from each other,
01:27as you can see on the motion path, but they also take longer to go to the same place.
01:33Hit the Home key and let's preview this animation and see what our final results look like.
01:39Takes just a couple seconds there and there we have it. The ring starts going at
01:43the same time the old toilet does. Now if you want to have these keyframes stop
01:49roving, just click-and-drag a marquee around them again, right-click and then
01:53deselect Rove Across Time and they turn back into regular keyframes.
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Creating temporarily roving keyframes
00:00In the last movie, we looked at creating roving keyframes. In this movie I'm
00:04going to show you how to do that, but only do it temporarily.
00:06To do that, just go ahead and click-and- drag to select all the keyframes of the
00:11given property here, or you could just click on the name of the property to
00:15select all of its keyframes, and this includes the first and last ones.
00:19Then hold down the Option key on the Mac, the Alt key on the PC and
00:22click-and-drag one of the end ones, and you see that we haven't really changed
00:27the keyframes at all, but they resize proportionately in time. As soon as you
00:33let go off the mouse and Alt/Option key, then your animation still remains
00:39the same keyframeness. It doesn't turn into roving keyframes as we saw in the last movie.
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10. The Principles of Animation
Introducing this chapter
00:00In this chapter, we're going to look at the basic principles of animation.
00:05If you like to do more reading on these principles, there is this cool entry in
00:08Wikipedia on the basic principles of animation. And we can easily do an entire
00:13title on just these principles. So if you'd really want to dig deeper,
00:16you're going to want to pick up this book, The Illusion of Life. This book is
00:21considered the bible of animation, written by Frank Thomas and Ollie Johnston,
00:26two of Walt Disney's animators.
00:29But before we jump into this chapter, I really want to stress you that no
00:32matter what you do in After Effects, if you animate text or graphics, you are
00:36still going to want to know these concepts. They will really enhance your final
00:41product and give you a very competitive edge. Think of the skills in this
00:45chapter as the art behind the keyframes.
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Creating anticipation
00:00The principle that I think is most helpful for motion graphic artist character
00:05animators, you name it, is anticipation. Let's preview what we have so far.
00:10We've got this text and it just flies off screen. This is really what we want
00:15to happen. We want text and it's flying off screen. So I'm going to refer to
00:18this as the action. The main point of the animation is this text flying off screen.
00:24That is the action.
00:26So the principle of anticipation says that before you have the action, there is
00:31something that leads up to that action, something that draws you in, and then
00:36that way you have stronger emphasis on the action itself. So in this movie,
00:41we're going to use what we've learned about the graph editor to make a little anticipation here.
00:46So, I'm going to open up the Graph Editor and I'm going to select the position
00:51property. I'm going to make sure first that we are looking at the value graph.
00:55 Now we know that red is X and green is Y, and we're moving this from
01:01side to side, in other words, the X direction.
01:03So really I'm concerned with the red line here. We could see that it starts
01:07here and then it goes over here. But again, we're talking about anticipation,
01:12so we want to create some action before the text leaves. The way I'm going to
01:17do that is by clicking with the Pen tool on this red line here. I'm going to
01:22click about here or so and then click somewhere in between. So I'm actually
01:27creating two keyframes.
01:29Next, I'll hit the later V to get the Selection tool and with the center
01:33keyframe selected, I'm going to drag down a little bit. The reason why I'm
01:39dragging down is because a higher X value takes the word, or whatever the layer is,
01:45away from the left edge. A lower X value brings it closer to the left edge.
01:52So before it heads off from the right of the screen, I want it to cock back a
01:55little bit to the left of screen and then go to the right.
01:59So if you look at this, it's exactly what we've done. It goes back to the left
02:03and then shoots off to the right. Now let's actually go ahead and hit the Home
02:07key and do a RAM Preview of this, so we could see what it's doing here. I think
02:11it's a little weak. It needs to back up a little bit farther, which means that
02:16we need to drag this down a little bit more and it probably could start a
02:20little bit sooner. Now let's try that again.
02:26It backs back, I like how long it takes, but ideally I would like to back up,
02:31and then slow down and then fly all the way up. So in other words, I think we
02:36need to adjust the velocity a little bit. So let's come down here at the bottom
02:38of the Timeline panel and select Edit Speed Graph.
02:42Maybe we want to resize this a little bit so we could see what's going on here,
02:46since we've got a lot going on. So what I could is I can click these handles
02:50and I can move these around to adjust the influence here. Actually, what I want
02:56to do is create a better ramp to this spike. When this is going fast, I kind
03:02of, want this to be a smooth ramp up to the speed, so let's go ahead and hit
03:06the Home key and preview that. So it backs up and then shoots off.
03:11Now we have a smoother ramp up to go fast, but what I'd like to do is have it
03:21hang right there, as it's all the way to the left. I want to hang there a
03:25little bit more and then go over to the right. So we can play with the velocity
03:31curve here. We can move these points over a little bit to make that happen.
03:36An easier way to do this might be to go over back to the value graph and move
03:42this keyframe over to the right.
03:45So as it goes down, it's going to go slowly down and then quickly ramp up.
03:50So let's go ahead and hit the Home key and preview that. So there we go.
03:57So it backs up slowly and then goes, and maybe this is a little bit too much.
04:03We don't want to go to the left all that much; we just want to cock back a little
04:07bit and then shoot off.
04:09Now with our animation, there is just so much more personality and character to
04:13this text. It seems like a small thing, but we've really drawn attention to the
04:19text flying off to the right of the screen, by this little bit of anticipation.
04:24So next time we're animating something flying off screen, or a character
04:28hitting a bat or anything, try to look at what you can do before the main action
04:32to lead viewers into that action, to build up anticipation.
04:38I think you'll be amazed at what difference this principle makes in the quality of your animation.
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Creating follow-through
00:01Whereas anticipation covers what happens leading up to the action,
00:05follow through talks about what happens after the action is over. In our case here,
00:10this is using the big After Effects Beyond the Basics project I created,
00:13we have all the stuff spitting up from the inside here. We have dragons, robots
00:18and guitars, all kinds of cool things, and I have me. That's the figure popping
00:23up right there. And because I'm kind of like the central figure here and there
00:27is only one of me, I'm in the center, I decide to give a little bit of
00:31extra something-something when I'm coming up.
00:33So I pop out and instead of just popping out and staying there what I have
00:38done is I have wiggled this a little bit. It kind of bounces. So it's only a
00:43few frames. It's very subtle, but I get wider and thinner and kind of bounce out.
00:48So let's play that again, kind of looks like that. Boink! Little bounciness,
00:54and what that does is that tends to exaggerate what just took place. So even
01:01though we have the opposite of anticipation, really the effect is the same,
01:05to draw more attention to the action taking place.
01:09So if you have some type of anticipation and you have the main action and
01:14then follow through, your animation is going to seem all the more intense.
01:19Oftentimes if you are watching the old Chuck Jones Looney Toons cartoons,
01:23they will have somebody that's going to be playing baseball for example and before
01:27they through the ball, they don't throw it. They wind up forever, they throw
01:31the ball and then they spin around and maybe they spin around so much that they
01:34dig themselves into the pitcher's mound or something. But that is a great
01:38example of how to use both anticipation and follow through after the action is over.
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Being conscious of object weight
00:00The concept of weight basically is exactly what it sounds like. We need to make
00:04sure as animators that we're giving weight to our subjects. For example, I have
00:10this little ball animated here and it just falls and it's so unrealistic.
00:15There is no realistic weight to it in any way, shape or form. We have no idea
00:19what that circle is supposed to be.
00:22Now I'm going to turn on the w/weight_ HEAVY layer so we could see a difference here.
00:27And if I hit the Home key and I preview this, we could see a big
00:30difference. What's interesting, if I just advance one frame at a time with the
00:34Page Down key, is that the one that's heavier on the right that we just turned on
00:39actually falls slower at first, and then it accelerates and gain speed much
00:46more quickly, and it just kind of hits there and just kind of makes a big thud
00:50and stays there. And so we get the sense that the second one is much heavier.
00:55Again folks, these are just pixels. So they don't have any kind of idea
01:00themselves of how heavy they should be or how thick they should be.
01:04We as animators need to convey to the audience the substance of what we are bringing to life.
01:09Looking at one more example. Turn on the w/weight_LIGHT layer. Hit the Home key
01:14 and we'll preview this. This one takes a lot longer to fall and then has a
01:18nice natural bounce at the end. So definitely if we go through this little bit
01:23more slowly, the heavy one hits the ground and this one still falling,
01:28although it does hit the ground faster than the original one because it does
01:31accelerate. Then it bounces and it just seem airy and light.
01:36So you could tell obviously these two circles on the right have so much more
01:40life and character and personality to them and are so much more interesting
01:44and engaging because of it, than this one. It really doesn't have any life or weight to it.
01:49Now obviously if you are a character animator you could see the importance here.
01:52If you have a super big fat guy that's walking, you need to make sure that he
01:55is kind of really heavy in his walk cycle, so that he feels like a heavy
01:59character. But even if you aren't a character animator, chances are at some
02:02point in your career you will animate something like a feather or water pouring
02:06or something, and you will need to be able to communicate the weight of that substance.
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Squashing and stretching objects
00:00In this movie we are going to look at the principle of squash and stretch.
00:04Here we have a simple example with a ball falling and it doesn't change in any way,
00:09shape or form. And then if I hit the Home key and turn on the Squash and
00:13Stretch layer and we preview this, the orange one does kind of have a little
00:18bounce to it. At the end it squashes and then stretches and again, the reason
00:25why this principle is called squash and stretch is that it has to squash,
00:29but then it also has to stretch in order to maintain its volume.
00:33So again, this is a pretty cheesy example with some circles, but you get the concept,
00:38that as soon as it hits the ground it squashes and it just seems a
00:42little bit more realistic. Now if you're working in 3D, this concept is all the
00:47more important, because as you're animating muscles moving around, this concept
00:52comes into play a lot more often.
00:54But just the same, if you're doing any kind of character animation, somebody is
00:57falling over, especially something cartoony, kind of zany, this concept can come
01:01up a lot as well.
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Exaggerating animation
00:00This next principle is actually a fun one. This is exaggerating action. We have some
00:04great art here from my buddy Will Kendrick and this time around we've also got
00:08some great footage from Detonation Films.
00:11The concept of exaggerating action is exactly what it sounds like.
00:15Just exaggerate the main action. With anticipation we've talked about setting up the
00:19main action, preparing for it, creating anticipation for it, and then also
00:23with follow through, we've talked about what to happen afterwards.
00:26But with exaggeration we make the action a bigger deal than it would normally be.
00:31Let's take a look at an example of this in action. Here in this example,
00:35we have a dragon that's kind of roaring and letting go of his dragony fury there.
00:42You can see him doing that. Roar, very good. But what we are going to do is I'm
00:47going to hit Shift+Home to jump to the beginning of the work area, actually you
00:50need to select the timeline first, turn on this Dragon Fire layer. And now when
00:57we preview this, he will breathe fire. That's actual fire from Detonation
01:02Films, which is really cool. And now he looks much much angrier with the real fire
01:09spewing forth from his mouth.
01:12Now that obviously adds a bigger touch, it packs a bigger oomph to our
01:17animation that just having his mouth open alone, but that's not enough.
01:21Let's go ahead and exaggerate it more by adding some extra smoke.
01:24So now if we preview this final result, no one is going to miss this dragon
01:29opening his mouth. We've got a lot of stuff going on here, a bunch of smoke,
01:33a bunch of fire, and it just makes everything seems so much more intense.
01:38One of the reasons I like this principle so much is that it really is up to you
01:42how you choose to exaggerate your action. You may make your character's eyes a
01:46little bit larger, if they're trying to gain sympathy from someone else.
01:50If it's a villain you might exaggerate the eyebrows, make them darker or larger,
01:55and of course, it could be a color choice, or it could be an animation,
01:58a motion choice. But through all of this the principle is consistent.
02:03Use exaggeration to make your action more obvious, apparent and to engage the viewer more fully.
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Creating smooth arcs
00:00This last animation principle is just a quick tip that applies to all animators
00:05in After Effects. The principle says that animation happens in a smooth arc,
00:11a trajectory, rather than in straight lines.
00:14In the last couple of chapters we occasionally looked to this project, we have
00:18these smooth lines coming in. And imagine if in this project instead of having
00:23the smooth arcing line, we instead had this jagged flat line. Motion generally
00:28happens in a smooth arc, again, rather than in straight lines.
00:32Even if you were standing there and you were looking at your arms and you moved
00:36your arms straight down and then straight to your sides, it would seem like that
00:41would be a straight line, but it's not. If you had a pencil in your hand and
00:45you drew a line, or if you looked at say DaVinci's Vitruvian Man for example,
00:49you'd see that that line that it creates is actually a curve, an arc, and not a straight line.
00:56Now sometimes with mechanical, technical, robotic type things, movement does
01:01happen in a straight line, but even then it's very rare. So again, most of the
01:06times when you want to animate anything, whether it's arms or whether it's
01:09light whips, or whatever it is, then animation typically wants to happens and
01:13should happen, looks more realistic, when it happens in a smooth arcing motion.
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11. Working with Photoshop Files
The importance of using Photoshop
00:00The next couple of chapters are going to be really exciting, albeit
00:04a little unconventional as well. We are going to look a little bit more closely
00:09at the relationship between Photoshop and After Effects. Just a little bit of
00:13Photoshop knowledge goes a long way in After Effects.
00:17Here's an example I made up a few years ago. It was actually a challenge to
00:20myself to see if I could make something super terrible and horrible in
00:24Photoshop and make it look kind of cool in After Effects. So I've got
00:27rectangular marquee selections and I've filled them with white in Photoshop.
00:31I got the Smudge tool, which nobody ever uses, and just kind of like smudged these
00:36edges and I was like okay, that looks pretty cheesy. What could I do with it in After Effects?
00:40So I've brought it in After Effects, added a glow, duplicated it, and put it in
00:443D Space, and now if you move around here in 3D Space, it's like this is some
00:49kind of like cool Transformers energon cube or something. Again, couldn't have been
00:54done without Photoshop, but a little bit of Photoshop knowledge went a long way
00:58to making this cool trick in After Effects.
01:01Now I've made up this little chart here that talks about Photoshop features
01:06that After Effects supports. For example, layers in Photoshop, if you bring
01:09over the PSD file, the Photoshop document, After Effects will recognize the
01:13Photoshop layers. It will recognize the visibility of the layers, opacity,
01:17blend modes, Alpha channels, layer masks, adjustment layers, all this stuff,
01:20and I actually add to this list vanishing point and if you've Photoshop CS4
01:25Extended, 3D layers which we'll cover later in this chapter.
01:29And there is a strong relationship between Photoshop and After Effects for a reason,
01:33because stuff that you do in Photoshop can really enhance the work
01:39you do in After Effects.
01:41Now this is not going to be comprehensive Photoshop training, or even Photoshop
01:45training at all. For that you want to check out the Online Training Library on
01:49lynda.com, so check that out if you want to actually get deeper in Photoshop.
01:52We are going to focus on the relationship between Photoshop and After Effects here
01:56in these next couple of chapters.
01:58Now a lot of people ask a lot of questions. How can I bring a photo to life is
02:02a question that I get often. Well, the answer to this question, as well as so
02:07many other questions in After Effects, doesn't lie in After Effects.
02:10It actually lies in Photoshop.
02:12So in the next chapter, we are going to take this photo and from start to
02:17finish in Photoshop, and After Effects, we are going to bring this to life and
02:21create some animation. So we've some lights flickering up here in the top if I
02:26scrub this, and obviously this guy here hits the pool cue and the ball moves.
02:32The table appears to be rotating three dimensionally. The girl appears to be
02:35rotating three dimensionally, as if we had a video of her, and everything seems
02:39to be ordered in 3D space, even though this is all just a photo.
02:43So all this kind of stuff that we are going to be talking about in the next few
02:46chapters, a lot of exciting new stuff, so let's get started.
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Setting up new PSD files for After Effects
00:00In this movie we are going to look at setting up new Photoshop files that you
00:05know you are going to take over to After Effects. Now this subject probably
00:08seems like the easiest thing in the world to do, but there is actually a lot
00:12more here than meets the eye.
00:14When you create a new Photoshop document, which you can do by going to File >
00:18New, you've a choice to change the Preset. Now if you pick one of the Film &
00:23Video presets, or if you go down here and click the Advanced tab, open this up,
00:28you'll be able to change the Pixel Aspect Ratio. This is important because
00:32After Effects will recognize the Pixel Aspect Ratio that you set up in your
00:36Photoshop document.
00:37I am going to go ahead and hit Cancel here. I've already set up a few Photoshop
00:42documents I want to show you and what I've done is I've created a perfect
00:45black circle in each one. Now please forgive the boringness of these exercise files,
00:50but unless you're using a perfect circle, I find it hard to tell to tell
00:54exactly what's going on with the Pixel Aspect Ratio.
00:57So in this case, I set up a full screen Pixel Aspect Ratio. I made a perfect circle.
01:01It looks great. In this case, I set up a widescreen pixel aspect ratio
01:06that made a perfect circle. Now notice what happens in this example, I've created a
01:10full screen document and made a perfect circle, but watch when I go to the View menu,
01:15go to Pixel Aspect Ratio, and then change the Pixel Aspect Ratio from
01:20full screen, 0.91, to Widescreen 1.21. It actually stretches the circle.
01:26Now as we'll see in a moment, this distortion will also carry over into After
01:31Effects. So you want to make sure that you get the right Pixel Aspect Ratio
01:35before you start creating your document. I've also created a square pixel
01:39aspect ratio document, made a circle here. No big surprises in this case
01:43though, because Photoshop documents by default are square pixels anyways.
01:47So before we go over in After Effects, just want to sum this up. We've two
01:50perfect circles here, and then obviously the perfect circle with the square
01:53pixel aspect ration, and then we have the stretch circle that we made before we
01:58changed the final Pixel Aspect Ratio.
02:00Now let's hover over to After Effects. I've already set this project for you,
02:04now I've made new compositions for each of these Photoshop files. As you could
02:08see here when I select these files in the Project panel, the Pixel Aspect Ratio
02:12shows up here in parenthesis. So they're totally recognized by After Effects.
02:15That's not something I did. It was already there.
02:16However, when we create new compositions with these, they seem kind of
02:21stretched out, specially this one. Look at that wide screen one, it looks like
02:25a squashed oval, and the one that we stretched out doesn't look nearly as
02:30stretched out, and of course, the square pixel aspect ration one, looks just fine.
02:35So what's the deal? Why does the full screen circle look perfect in Photoshop,
02:41but when we bring it into After Effects make a composition out of it, and now
02:44it's stretched a little bit? Well, the deal is this folks and this might help
02:48you as you're preparing your work in After Effects even if you never use
02:51Photoshop. Back in Photoshop whenever you created document with a non-square
02:56pixel aspect ratio, so anything other than 1.0, so here's your 0.91, 1.21
03:00definitely qualify here. Whenever you create one of those documents, then if
03:04you go to the View menu, Pixel Aspect Ratio Correction is automatically turned on.
03:10So this is trying to simulate the way it will look when you play this back in a
03:14non-square monitor. In After Effects, we're not seeing that same pixel aspect
03:20ratio correction. If you want to see that go down to the bottom of the
03:24Composition panel and click this button, Toggle Pixel Aspect Ratio Correction.
03:29Now it will look like when you play this back on a video monitor,
03:33 and you'll also notice that this looks remarkably like what they look like back in Photoshop.
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Importing at document size vs. layer size
00:00In this movie we are going to look at how to import Photoshop documents, and
00:04also Illustrator documents as a Composition. Now there's actually two different
00:08ways to do this. I'm going to double- click in the Project panel, go to the
00:11Graphics folder in the Media Folder of the exercise files, and I'm going to
00:16select Knight w layered r forearm. We can import it as footage or as a
00:21composition or as a composition with cropped layers. When we import things as
00:26a Composition, again, either Photoshop or Illustrator documents, they both act
00:30the same, every layer comes in at the size of the entire document.
00:35When we import things as Composition- Cropped Layers, then every layer comes in
00:40at the size of it's own layer. So first let's look at Composition-Cropped Layers.
00:44I'm going to go ahead and hit Open here. Now let's double-click the
00:47Composition it created for us and as I select these different layers, let me
00:52zoom out just a touch. If I select the helmet, we can see that the boundaries
00:56around the helmet layer are about the size of the helmet.
01:00We select the shield and the same thing. The boundaries are around the shield.
01:04Now the advantage of importing this way is that we already have the anchor
01:08point in the center of the layer. Often times when transforming a layer,
01:11the center is a good spot to have the anchor point. Now, I'm going to create a new
01:16project. I'm just going to hit Command+ Option+N or Ctrl+Alt+N on a PC. Don't save.
01:20I'm going to double-click in the Project panel again. This time I'm going
01:24to import the same file, but I'm going to select Composition instead of
01:27Composition-Cropped Layers.
01:28Why that imported, I'm going to double -click the Composition I created and
01:32now you'll notice if I select the helmet, it looks like the size of the entire
01:37layer, because it is. Same thing with the shield and the right forearm, right hand.
01:41Every single layer is the size of the entire document. Now as far as I'm
01:46concerned, the Composition-Cropped Layers comes in handy much more often.
01:49However, when importing Photoshop files with displacement maps or with other
01:54layers that you will use to control Effects, it's often good to import them at
02:00document size. In other words just as a regular Composition,
02:03not Composition-Cropped Layers. Again I'm going to create a new project here and
02:07I'm going to double-click to Import in the Project panel. I'm going to go to
02:10the Media folder, and I'm going to go to the PSDs folder. I'm going to open up
02:14Angela in the snow.
02:16You looked at this file earlier in this training series, when we were talking
02:20about creating Displacement Maps, and if you accidentally select Footage when
02:23you are importing, you still have the option to change it to Composition or
02:26Composition-Cropped Layers here so. I want to change the Import Kind to
02:29Composition and I'm not worried about these other options. I'm going to go
02:32ahead and hit OK. I'm going to just double-click this comp to open it up and
02:36again, when you are using maps here to control effects, you want to make sure
02:41that your layer size of the Displacement Map and of the layer that it is
02:45displacing are exactly the same. If when we were making this Displacement Map,
02:50if the paint didn't go all the way to the edge, and then we imported this at
02:54the size of the layer, in other words with Composition-Cropped Layers, then the
02:58effect would stretch this map to fit the layer.
03:03So in other words, the displacement map and the layer to be displaced would not
03:07match up. So as long as you import things as a composition, not with cropped
03:11layers, then your map will perfectly match the layer it's displacing.
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Converting layer styles
00:01Kind of as a quick tip addendum to what we covered in the last movie, I want to
00:05show you a little bit about the issues pertaining to importing a Photoshop
00:09document that already has layers styles in it. Whenever you import a
00:12Composition, you have this option to import editable Layer Styles or to merge
00:16those Layer Styles into footage.
00:18Now the description is right here at the bottom, but this might not be as clear
00:22as it could be. But here is the deal, folks. If you import a psd file with
00:26Editable Layer Styles, then the Photoshop Layer Styles that you created in
00:30Photoshop will remain editable in After Effects. So your Bevel/Emboss, your Drop
00:37Shadow, your inner/outer glow, that type of thing, they'll all be editable,
00:40adjustable and amenable, and all of that here within After Effects. And because
00:44it's a straight transfer, there is really not any editing or adjusting that
00:48goes on in that process and still they look exactly the same as they do in Photoshop.
00:53The problem with this is that if you are going to put those layers with the
00:58layers styles on them, into 3D space and you want them to intersect with
01:03another, in other words you want one of them to go in front of or behind
01:07another layer, they won't do that. So if you're doing very, very simple and
01:12basic 3D, then this option is probably the best choice. But if you're going to
01:17be doing any kind of 3D, you might want to consider merging the layers styles into Footage.
01:22This is kind of like when you're in Photoshop and you merge the layer styles
01:26into itself, so that they're basically collapsed, no longer editable, this is
01:30the same type thing in After Effects. And because this essentially makes a
01:33regular flat layer, in other words there's no drop shadows, just pixels that
01:37look like a drop shadow, you can't adjust the drop shadow anymore, then you can
01:40fully use then 3D, the same way you'd be using any other 3D layer. But again,
01:45the downside is you can't edit those layer styles, and also they have a
01:48tendency to not transfer over as well.
01:51Usually it looks pretty good. So let's say you just had a drop shadow that
01:54would probably looks exactly the same. If you have a lot of Effects in that
01:57layer styles, just if you're using a lot of blend modes with the Effects in
02:01that layer style, then I find they don't carry over super accurately. Merging
02:06layer styles in other words doesn't always faithfully reproduce the same
02:10effect. Now what I prefer to do is because layer styles in After Effects are
02:16the same ones in Photoshop, if I'm making something in Photoshop, and I know
02:19it's going over to After Effects, then I just won't apply any layer styles at all
02:22and I'll apply them here in After Effects. Of course, you still have the
02:263D problem. Then you don't have to worry about which option to choose here.
02:30So this is a little quick tip about importing Photoshop documents with layer styles.
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Making Photoshop text editable
00:00In this movie we are going to look at converting text from Photoshop into
00:04editable text in After Effects. I should point out for those of you that have
00:08the exercise files that you might not have the font that I'm using on your
00:11system. That's okay. Use whatever font you'd like. Usually I try to convert
00:15those fonts, so that you don't have any font issues, but in this case we have
00:18to use live editable text.
00:21So when I created this document in Photoshop, if I go over to the Layers panel,
00:24this SPIES text right here is actually live editable text, you can tell by the
00:28icon here. But when I import this over into After Effects, you could see that
00:32it's no longer editable. It's just a simple layer of pixels. To make it
00:36editable, you must select the layer, then go to the Layer menu at the top of
00:40the interface, and then towards the bottom of the Layer menu, select Convert to
00:44Editable Text. At that point, the Layers icon, the thumbnail will change to a T,
00:49indicating that this is in fact editable text.
00:52Now I could select my Type tool, go in here, and change this to whatever I want.
00:57Just going to undo that, but that is how you convert text from Photoshop
01:02into editable text in After Effects.
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Importing Vanishing Point files
00:00In this movie we're going to explore a feature that Photoshop and After Effects
00:04can use together called Vanishing Point. Actually truth be told, I have a love/hate
00:08relationship with Vanishing Point. But I'll tell you one thing, it's getting
00:12better. If you use Vanishing Point in CS3, they haven't really advertised it
00:15too much but from my experience in CS4, the feature works much, much better.
00:21In this movie I'm going to show you how to use the feature. We're also going to
00:23talk about some of the big limitations here as well.
00:25I will start with Vanishing Point START .psd in Photoshop. I'm going to go to
00:30Filter > Vanishing Point. Now the purpose of Vanishing Point is to create these
00:37grids. These grids tell Photoshop where the 3D plains in our image lie. It will
00:44then convert our photo to 3D objects.
00:47I must start from scratch here, I want to just show you a final product, but
00:52here's how we do this from scratch. I'm going to create a grid by using this
00:56tool here. There is a single solid grid plain. I'm going to click in the four
01:00corners of the grid. I'm going to click here, sort on the left-hand side, over
01:05here, I'm not super-concerned about this right now because we're going to go
01:08back and adjust this later, and that looks pretty good.
01:11So what I might want to do now is use these Navigation tools at the bottom-left
01:14to zoom all the way out so we can see what this looks like. Now if you get a
01:18red grid or a yellow grid that means that is an invalid grid, and you want to
01:23adjust it until you get a blue grid here.
01:26Now I'm going to over here to this right edge here, now I'm going to go to the
01:30middle point on the right edge and I'm going to hold the Command key or the
01:33Ctrl key on the PC. And what that will do is allow me to create another grid
01:38that comes out from that grid. Then if I come down to this point on the
01:43right-hand side, then hold the Option key, I can move this grid in 3D space by
01:49clicking-and-dragging up and down.
01:51Now it's cool if I move it back to the right perspective. Now once I have
01:55rotated this grid using the Option or Alt key then it's actually changed in 3D
02:01space, so if I pull it out, I'm actually pulling it away in 3D space. Kind of
02:05makes it easier to gauge how to line this up when we move this in the correct spot.
02:13So now that looks about right and then if I pull this away, just goes
02:17right down the perspective line.
02:19Now what's cool about this is you can get really detailed. If I zoom in here at
02:23the right-hand side, which you can do by using the keyboard shortcut
02:25Command+Spacebar or Ctrl+Spacebar on the PC, then you can go and you see we
02:30have this lip here on this building. Command or Ctrl+Drag out another grid and
02:35Option, Alt+Drag until it looks about right for the perspective, and then we
02:41can create another plain here. And so basically continue on making lips and
02:47edges and all that type of stuff.
02:48Now I'm going to go ahead and cancel this and go over to Vanishing Point
02:52FINISH, open up my Layers panel and I'm going to select the background here and
02:58select the Filter > Vanishing Point. And here is a complete example, it's been
03:03a little bit more time width, just to give an idea of what I did.
03:06Now once you've got your grids where you want them, you can go to this fly-out
03:09menu in the upper left-hand corner of the Vanishing Point interface and you
03:13have a lot of really cool options here to export this. First of all, you could
03:16return the 3D Layer to Photoshop, so you could actually create a 3D model lot
03:19of this by using Photoshop.
03:21Essentially it will be a series of flat plains but they will be mapped with the
03:26textures from your photo. You can also export this to a variety of 3D formats,
03:31but what we are concerned about here is exporting this for After Effects.
03:36This will create a .VPE file, which is short for Vanishing Point Exchange. So when I
03:41click on this, I may navigate to the Media folder in the Exercise Files. ?
03:45Now going to go to Other Assets, and I'm going to call this Vanishing Point, and
03:50then I'm going to click Save.
03:51Now, let's go back over into After Effects and when you import a VPE file for a
03:58Vanishing Point, you have to right- click, select Import > Vanishing Point, it
04:03will not show up as a regular file in the Import file dialog box.
04:06So let's go ahead and click on Vanishing Point, then I'm going to go back to
04:10the Media folder and the Exercise Files folder, Other Assets, Vanishing
04:15Point.vpe and click Open.
04:18Now lot of stuff has been done for you automatically here, if I double-click
04:21this composition again we'll see the composition has been made for us.
04:25It's already made a no object and parented all of the layers with that no object and
04:29there is also a 3D camera placed in the scene. We could select that layer,
04:34select the Unified Camera tool and just go to town. You can click and drag
04:37around, to pan around our photo of the Lincoln Memorial. We can again with the
04:42Unified Camera tool click the right button on a mouse to zoom in and out or the
04:46middle mouse button to move up and down.
04:49So essentially we've added some 3Dness to the photo that we had. Now I think
04:54these features are specially great for any film-makers or maybe directors that
04:59need some good B roll footage and you don't have necessarily time to go out to
05:03Washington DC and shoot a video of the Lincoln Memorial. You could just simply
05:08take a photo and then just pan around it, just a little bit like so, and if you
05:12get a small shot that was very, very brief and you're only painting around it
05:15just a couple of seconds, you could easily create a shot that looked really nice with this.
05:21However, as you probably have been noticing as we moving this around, there are
05:24a lot of limitations. First of all, this top plain in the upper left-hand
05:28corner shows this extra corner at the top that's really not very attractive.
05:33But that's part of what Vanishing Point does it applies textures to flat
05:37rectangular plains. It doesn't really have the ability to create round edges.
05:42That's one of the things you've got to work around.
05:44Also one of the beasts I have with it, if I zoom into 100% here, just go to the
05:48drop-down, change this to 100%, you'll notice that the quality of the textures
05:52degrade significantly when the image is brought into Vanishing Point. If we go
05:57back into Photoshop and I'm just going to cancel out of Vanishing Point here,
06:01here is our START image, this is what we started with, notice the textures and
06:04all of the states here and their logos. There is a lot of ornate work here,
06:08beautiful. But if we got Vanishing Point FINISH, the after results, we can see
06:12that it's been degraded, blurred. It's even pixelated, blocky, not looking too awesome.
06:17Also you'll notice that only the stuff that we put the grids around, in other
06:21words, the building itself were part of this Vanishing Point.
06:25If we go to Layers for example and we turn off the Background layer visibility
06:30we'd see that where we didn't put the grids was not turned into anything, so
06:34when we brought that over into After Effects, there is no sky background.
06:38Now the good news is there are workarounds for these problems. Number one, to
06:43get around these edges, we could have carefully placed our grids a little bit
06:47better, we could have included this little part of this edge in this grid as
06:52opposed to this grid when we wouldn't have had that corner there. To have
06:55higher resolution images, we could have started with a much larger image than
06:59we needed and they just had a really, really big composition and then we could
07:03have zoomed it a little bit closer and had some better resolution on our textures.
07:08And also to fix the background issue and to fix a lot of other issues with
07:11Vanishing Point actually, we probably need to do a little bit of
07:14pre-Photoshopping in Photoshop. In other words, we probably need to cut up the
07:17image a little bit and separate the textures, separate the objects from each
07:21other on different layers and then added Vanishing Point to the layers that we needed it on.
07:25But all in all only I think the results are great. Look how basically moving in
07:28real-time almost here with this 3D model in After Effects, which is a pretty
07:33cool thing. And if you've used Vanishing Point in CS3, you might have noticed
07:37at least for me, 99% of the time I imported Vanishing Point files into After
07:42Effects, they looked terrible. The camera was completely off. It just looked
07:45really bad, but our camera here was perfectly in sync with where it should have
07:49been in the image and everything just kind of imported and works really well.
07:54It's not the best example but is a very realistic example of what you'll encounter.
07:58So again, don't let these limitations holding you back from trying out
08:02and experimenting with Vanishing Point.
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Working with Live 3D objects from Photoshop
00:00Perhaps one of the best new features in After Effects CS4 is its ability to
00:03understand 3D objects inside PSD files. Let's look at this. Here's a 3D ring
00:08kind of like a Lord of the Rings type ring that we have in Photoshop. As you can see
00:12it's fully three-dimensional, rounded edges, the whole bit, and by the way,
00:17this ring was made from scratch in Photoshop. If you want more information on
00:21how to do that, you could check out my Photoshop CS4 Extended for 3D title on lynda.com.
00:26What we are going to do now is import this exact Photoshop document into After
00:30Effects. So let's double-click in the Project panel to import this the regular way.
00:34Then let's navigate to the PSDs folder, the Media folder, the Exercise
00:37Files, and we're going to open up the one ring.psd.
00:41We're going to open this up as a Composition or Composition - Cropped Layers,
00:45either one would be fine. Now this is important, when this dialog box pops up
00:49and you have the option to enable Live Photoshop 3D, it's checked by default,
00:53but you might have unchecked it. So make sure that this is checked and then
00:57click OK. It will make a composition for you automatically, go ahead and
01:00double-click that to open it. And it's actually done a lot of stuff for us.
01:04It's set up a null object to be the controller for the 3D ring layer that we're
01:09saying here. That's also created a Comp Camera.
01:12It's little hard to see what's going on with all these guides, so I'm going to
01:15hide the guides by hitting Command+ Colon or Ctrl+Colon. There we go.
01:19This little red out line represents the null object. I don't want to see that
01:24either, so I'm just going to take off the visibility of the ring controller.
01:28Now what is done, if we select this ring layer and go to the Effect Controls
01:31panels, is it's added an effect called Live Photoshop 3D.
01:35Now in most cases, you probably won't ever need to fiddle with this effect,
01:39it's so good to know though that it is applied as an effect. However, sometimes
01:42you may want to use it, if you have created some type of animation like maybe
01:47camera animation in the original Photoshop file, you may choose to use the
01:52Photoshop Camera instead of the Comp Camera here in After Effects.
01:57Now of course the 3D capabilities and the animation capabilities are far beyond
02:01what you have in Photoshop, so it makes more sense to animate things and move
02:06them in 3D, here in After Effects.
02:08You'll also notice we have an Object Transform, we can open up here and we have
02:14Position, Orientation and Scale, but all of these properties are red indicating
02:18that they are connected via an expression or rather that they are driven by an expression.
02:23Now what's really going on here is that they are being controlled by this null
02:27object, and Adobe recommends if you are going to transform the 3D objects,
02:30let's say you are going to scale it down or something then you do that to the
02:34null object and not to the actual 3D object itself.
02:39So in other words, let's say we want to scale this down a little bit. I would
02:41scale the null object. I'll stick this down to maybe like 80% or something.
02:45So I scale down the null object and not the actual ring itself.
02:51Now one of the things that just drives me absolutely nuts is that, this doesn't
02:54really work all that gray, I mean, I have a fairly simple 3D object here, but
02:59even then if I try to get the Unified Camera tool and move this around, we
03:04could see that it's not moving in real- time and then it updates slowly, once
03:08I've let go of my mouse, and you could see that that happens regardless of my
03:123D settings. I come down here to Fast Previews, changed from my Adaptive
03:15Resolution, let's say OpenGL - Always On, and then if I click the Camera tool
03:20and try to move it around it still doesn't move in real-time. So I'm going to
03:24take this back to Adaptive Resolution here.
03:27Now again to me this is one of the most frustrating things, I mean this is a
03:29very simple small model. You could imagine if we had an actual model with tons
03:34of materials and all sorts of stuff going on then, they'd render even slower than that.
03:38Now there is a cool trick here, if you go the 3D objects, in this case the ring
03:42layer, you go to the Draft settings, typically I don't play with these Draft
03:45settings too much because my computer usually renders things pretty quickly but
03:49if we click this and put this into Draft mode, it'll degrade the quality
03:53definitely of our ring, but from there we can just click-and-drag and move and
03:58rotate this ring around as a 3D object. In real-time although, a severely
04:03degraded image quality, but still we can move around and tell what's going on.
04:07So there are some of the issues relating to importing 3D objects from Photoshop
04:13files, and again there are a lot of limitations here if we have a material on
04:17our object or if our object is very complex then it renders so slowly that it's
04:23almost better to go back into a 3D program and try to animate something there.
04:27But at least you have that functionality here in After Effects.
04:30And I also should point out that if we had a really simple model with no
04:33textures applied to it, let's say like a sphere or a pyramid or a cube,
04:38then those type of things render very, very fast in After Effects.
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Creating precomps in Photoshop
00:00Now this is an interesting technique that I'm not sure everyone is aware of.
00:04When you create your Photoshop document with the intent of taking it over into
00:09After Effects, you actually control how it's imported, at least for Precomps here in Photoshop.
00:14I will show you what I'm talking about. I have this example here, and I
00:17basically have three layers essentially. I have the SUV, I have the reflection,
00:23and then I also have this background group. And the group consists of eight
00:27layers, making up the background.
00:30Now I got the background where I want it. I'm done with it. I may want to do
00:34something to it later, but for right now, I want them all compartmentalized,
00:37all eight layers, into this one background folder. You can create those folders by
00:42clicking this little folder icon, right here at the bottom of the Layers panel
00:45in Photoshop that creates a new Group folder, and you could just drag-and-drop
00:49layers in there, if you so choose. I'm just going to undo those two actions.
00:54Now watch what happens when we import this exact same file over into After
00:59Effects. I'm going to double-click the Project panel, I'm going to go over to
01:02my Exercise Files, then I'm go to the Media folder, PSDs, and I'm going to
01:08select SUV with background. And actually, I want this to be a Composition -
01:13Cropped Layers, and these settings don't really matter. So I'm going to go
01:16ahead and click OK here. And I'm going to double-click the composition it made
01:20for me. And you'll notice here that we have three layers just as we did in
01:25Photoshop, the SUV, reflection and the background layer.
01:29But notice that the background group in Photoshop has been automatically
01:34converted to a composition. So we can double-click this composition and open up
01:39and get to the original eight layers that made up our background. So it's good
01:44to know that they are not flattened, but they are organized for us. So again,
01:48if layers are put into a group in Photoshop, when you bring that PSD into After Effects,
01:53they will be automatically pre-composed for you.
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Creating shape layers from Photoshop shapes
00:01In this movie, we're going to look at an unusual trick, but one that I think is
00:04quite helpful nonetheless. What we are going to do is look at shapes in
00:09Photoshop. Photoshop comes with this huge library, actual several libraries
00:13of different shapes. Well, what we can do is take those, copy them in
00:17Photoshop, and then paste them in After Effects. We could paste them as masks
00:22or as shape layers.
00:23So I'm going to go to File > New here in Photoshop. Let's just go ahead and
00:27create a document, the default Photoshop size and click OK. Next is go ahead,
00:32and click this Custom Shape tool. You'll find that down here if you hold your
00:35mouse down underneath the Rectangle tool, by default comes the Custom Shape tool.
00:39Once you have that selected, then you can come up here at the top and click this
00:42drop-down and have access to all the shapes here.
00:45Now you may not be seeing all the shapes I currently have open that I'm
00:49scrolling through so just go ahead and go to the fly-out menu, and select one
00:52of the libraries of shapes to choose from. I just went ahead and selected All,
00:56so this is actually all the shapes that Photoshop comes with by default.
01:01Now if you go to the Adobe website, you could find literally hundreds of
01:05additional shapes the other people, other members of the Photoshop community
01:09have uploaded that you can use for free in your design. So this applies to
01:13those shapes as well.
01:14Now, I'm going to look for a single solid shape here, this airplane or car will
01:19do nicely. I think I'm going to choose the car. And once you've selected your
01:23shape, just come down here, and actually before you that, make sure that this
01:25button in the upper left-hand corner of the Options Bar is selected. We do not
01:29want to create shape layers, we do not want to create pixels. You need to
01:32create a work path for this to work.
01:34So I'm going to click-and-drag and make my car, and we can stretch this as we
01:38please. If you want to make sure that the proportions are the same as the
01:42original shape, we can hold the Shift key, and once you've made it, go ahead
01:46and click on this Path Selection tool, then click the path to enable it.
01:51Then go to the Edit menu, and select Copy, so we've copied the path.
01:56Now let's go back to After Effects. As you can see I have a fresh project here,
02:00so let's go ahead and create a new composition, basically just NTSC DV is fine.
02:05I'm using Square Pixels also, and I'm going to click OK.
02:09Now, it's important to realize that what we have stored in our Clipboard is
02:13actually vector data. So we can go ahead and right-click, make a New > Solid
02:18layer. Let's go ahead and make it a bright color like this Orange. That works,
02:22and then if you past it by hitting Command+V or Ctrl+V on the PC, you're going
02:27to paste that mask in. What that's done is created a mask on this layer.
02:32Now I'm going to show you how to make a shape layer with this Copy Data.
02:35I'm going to select this layer and hit the Delete key to get rid of it. And now
02:39what I'm going to do is I'm going to select the Pen tool, make sure no layers
02:42selected, and then just click somewhere, just make a point.
02:45Then after you've made the point, go ahead and open up the shape layer, open up
02:49Contents, open up Shape, open up Path 1, and then select Path. Then with Path
02:56selected hit Command+V to paste. And now we've created a shape layer. You go out to 100% here.
03:05Now first I realized that this may seem like we've just created another mask.
03:08But once you have this shape as a shape layer to view all sorts of really cool
03:12things with it. We could go and add all these different path operators, or we
03:15could add Pucker and Bloat for example, and we can change the shape of our car,
03:20bloat it, pucker it. Let me undo that. You could also add a Repeater and add
03:26multiple cars. So there is a lot we can do.
03:29And we can do even more because of the vast library of shapes available to us
03:34in Photoshop that as demonstrated, we can bring into After Effects as either masks or shape layers.
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Exporting After Effects frames as layered Photoshop files
00:01Another great trick that's very useful and somewhat obscure is the ability to
00:05export a layered Photoshop file from After Effects. Now we know in the render
00:11queue you could just render something out as a PSD file, no big deal. But that
00:14flattens everything into one layer. But so many times in the past, when I have
00:17been working on something, let's say I make something for an indie film when
00:21I'm doing something in post production, I could do some cool thing like this
00:25Shatter Effect here, blow stuff up, and there are no capabilities like that in Photoshop.
00:30So if I want to make a poster of this explosion, I would have a hard time doing
00:34that in just Photoshop. So whether I want to take this and make a 2D print out of
00:39this or whether I'm using it for storyboards, or some other type of art, I can
00:43export this exact frame as a layered Photoshop file, shatter explosion
00:48everything, by going to the Composition menu at the top of the screen,
00:51after of course selecting the Composition in the Timeline panel. Save Frame As > Photoshop Layers.
00:57Now once you select that option there is really not that much else to it,
01:00because it's going to render things of the same size with all of the layers.
01:04Now you will probably get a warning, especially in this case, letting you know
01:07that all of the maybe Track Mattes or Blending modes that you use in After
01:11Effects aren't necessarily in Photoshop. So it might not look exactly the same.
01:15Let's step over to Photoshop and see what the final result is. I exported this
01:19out as Layered PSD.psd, and you'll notice here that even though Shatter is not
01:25in effect in Photoshop, we have these shattered pieces, because we exported just that frame.
01:30We have the frame from the Detonation Films explosion as well as the
01:34reflection, the bottom and the background. Now if you are really observant,
01:38you might have noticed that back in After Effects we only have three layers here
01:41whereas we have five layers in Photoshop. The reason is if I go back to After
01:47Effects here, we have some layers Shy. So whether the layers are Shy or not,
01:51they still get exported back over to Photoshop.
01:56Now knowing this you might want to take this a little bit further. If you do a
01:59lot of 2D design with Photoshop there are lot of cool tricks like Fractal
02:03Noise, and Shatter and Explosion, Card Wipe, and Foam, and a bunch of really
02:09awesome effects like this that you won't find anything like in Photoshop.
02:14At one point in my life I worked for a couple of years doing 2D print design,
02:17and I knew After Effects. So I use After Effects and my print design all the time,
02:21just because After Effects stuff look so cool.
02:23So again, whether it for 2D art or for storyboards or what have you, it really
02:28pays to know this trick to export layered Photoshop documents from After Effects.
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12. Project: Animating Elements from a Photo
Setting up the project
00:00In this chapter, we're going to look at a way sweet project. We're going to go
00:05from start to finish. We're going to use this project with Photoshop and After
00:11Effects together at their finest. What we're going to do is we're going to take
00:14this photo of the band You Yell You Kick and we are going to cut it up in
00:18Photoshop and then we're going to bring it here into After Effects.
00:22We're going to animate it, color adjust it, and do some really cool tricks with it.
00:26We've got some glowing lights here, we have them hit the ball, we have
00:30Marian, the singer here displaced, we have the pool table displaced, making it
00:34look like this is an actual three- dimensional pool table. Here's a lot of
00:38really great things going on here. From start to finish we are going to go from
00:42the photo to the After Effects project. Now a quick word of thanks to the band,
00:46You Yell You Kick. You can find more information about them at their MySpace page,
00:49myspace.com/YouYellYouKick.
00:53So with that, let's jump into Photoshop and get started on this project.
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Cutting out the pieces
00:01The first step in our project is to import the file we're going to be working with.
00:04When you open this up in Camera Raw from Photoshop, go to the File menu
00:09and select Open in Photoshop. Once you're done playing with these settings,
00:12I just kind of left him alone, click Open Image.
00:15Now from here we have the biggest step, perhaps the most important step, and
00:20perhaps the most time-consuming step of all and that is to select each
00:25individual piece that you want to separate. Now the more effort that you put
00:29into this, the more pieces that you separate, the better this will look when
00:32animated in After Effects.
00:34Now again, this is not going to be Photoshop Training 101 so if you
00:38need some Photoshop training, then definitely go check out lynda.com and check
00:42out some of the great Photoshop training there. But what I do want to tell you
00:46is what steps you'll need to take. What we need to do is select each
00:50individual, person in character here.
00:51I'm going to start with Marian, the girl in the front, and again you can use
00:54any combination of selection tools. What I usually like to do is get the Quick
00:59Selection tool and just make a quick selection just to kind of get started.
01:04Maybe her face like a little bit or something.
01:06Then what I'll do is hit the letter Q to enter Quick Mask Mode. Now this is
01:10definitely not the most common way to select things, it's the way that I prefer
01:15to do things. Hit the letter B for the Brush tool and then you can paint with
01:20pure black and pure white. If you paint with white, you'll erase the mask, and
01:26if I hit the letter X to swap my foreground and background color, so I'm
01:29painting with black, then I'm actually painting the mask.
01:32So what I recommend doing, I want to paint with white here, and I'm going to
01:35hit the Right Bracket key to make my brush size little bigger. I want to zoom
01:38in and we can just paint the selection here. So, I'm going to paint this.
01:46I'm not going to do all the people here and all of the things that I want to
01:49isolate, because that would take forever. But I'm just going to give you a
01:53rough idea of what I'm looking for, and then you on your own can take the time
01:58that you like to take with your project.
02:00Now one of the most important things here as we go around, let's say Marian's
02:04hair here, it gets pretty wispy. If I paint outside the mask, you just see
02:09what's going on, and this is a great principle to know about working with this
02:15type of thing. You can spend all day, literally all day, trying to go in and
02:20select every little tiny hair and get every little detail just exactly perfect.
02:25But the thing is, folks, time is money, so you've got to learn the best way to
02:30use that time effectively. I'll tell you that although you do want a clean
02:34selection, this is not a good use of time to sit here and get all the details
02:39in our hair. From far away, in After Effects when it's animated, you're not
02:42going to be able to tell.
02:43So, the best thing to do is probably draw a hair edge like shape and we'll just
02:50fill in the holes and deal with that later. Now, of course, you want this to be
02:54smooth, so we can go back and kind of fix it up a little bit. But again, don't
02:58spend too much time. There is a balance between how much time that you want to
03:02spend and how good the project needs to be.
03:04Now you want to be really careful with the edges. I selected this really
03:09quickly with that Quick Selection tool, which seems really great, but then when
03:13you actually go in and look a little bit more closely at the selection edges,
03:17they're pretty awful. So I just use that to kind of get started.
03:20What I can do is click once and let go, and then if I hold the Shift key down,
03:25and then click again, I'll draw a straight line, and sometimes those straight
03:31lines can make things look really clean for you. Obviously too, they can make
03:34things look really robotic because there is a slight curve to this arm, but if
03:37you're finding that you have like a really jagged edge around something,
03:41sometimes just Shift-clicking with the Brush tool can make that selection cleaner for you.
03:46Now again, I don't want to get too deep into Photoshop concepts and ideas.
03:50I've pretty much told you what you need to know from an After Effects users' point
03:53of view, and what I've done is I've created this Marian Selected.psd file.
03:58Once you've made a selection, you go to the Select menu and select Save
04:01Selection. What that will do is it will store the selection as an Alpha channel
04:06inside of Photoshop. So if I go to the Window menu, and then open up the
04:11Channels panel, then you will see the Marian selection down here at the bottom.
04:16I could then click the left-most button at the bottom of the Channels panel to
04:20reload this selection to be able to use it.
04:23I'm going to click on RGB Composite, so I have all these channels to use.
04:26Actually if you look at this outside border here, you could see these marching
04:30ants around it, and that tells us that the background is selected and not
04:34Marian. So we want to invert the selection. We could do that by hitting
04:38Command+Shift+I or Ctrl+Shift+I on the PC or going to Select menu and selecting
04:43Inverse. So now Marian is selected and that's what we want.
04:46Next, I'm going to go to the Layers panel, make sure the layer is selected, and
04:49I'm going to go to the Layer menu at the top of the screen, New > Layer Via
04:54Cut. This is very important. What this is going to do is extract Marian, or
04:59rather extract the selection from the background.
05:02So if I take the visibility off of this layer, we could see it's actually cut a
05:05hole in the background. Now Marian, if we turn off the background, is a layer
05:10onto herself. This is really the key ingredient for bringing this photo to life in After Effects.
05:16By the way, let me undo a couple steps here. Before you make a new layer via
05:21cut, you could also select a Selection tool and then click the Refine Edge
05:27button as long as your selection is active.
05:28So again those two requirements are: you must have an active selection, number
05:31one, and number two, you must have a Selection tool selected. Then you could
05:35click this Refine Edge button and you could go in and customize the selection.
05:39I took off the Feather. I increased the Contrast. I took down Smooth a little bit.
05:44So we could kind of fiddle with this selection until you get it just right for
05:49your liking. Now I'm going to go ahead and cancel that and go back to Edit >
05:53Redo Layer Via Cut, and what happens is when you cut out a layer, we have of
05:58all this background whiteness.
05:59So what we're going to do is break and cut the movie short here, and go in and
06:05I'm going to cut up the lights and then each of the band members, and the pool
06:09table, and a few pool balls, but I'm going to leave the stool and the
06:13background pretty much intact other than the lights.
06:16Although you were free to cut this up as much as you want. So we'll cut out all
06:20of these different objects before the next movie, and then we'll talk about filling in these holes.
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Filling in the holes
00:01So I finished cutting out all of the characters and you could see I've isolated
00:05all of the different cue balls and sticks and all of these different
00:10miscellaneous things that we have going on here onto their own separate layers.
00:14So what we are going to look in this step is how to fill in these holes.
00:18Now this can be a very time consuming process, perhaps the most time consuming
00:22process out of this whole project. But again, just like selecting, the quality
00:27of you work here is going to determine the quality of the final product in After Effects.
00:31Now again, there is a lot here. It takes several hours so I'm not going to do it,
00:35obviously, in the course of this movie, but I'm just going to give you some
00:37hints to get started. First of all, I'm going to start with the pool table.
00:41This is the easy part here.
00:42Let's go ahead and fill in on the pool table where these pool balls are.
00:47That way, let's say we have the red ball and let's say in After Effects, we want to
00:51animate this red ball and move it around a little bit to give it some depth.
00:54We need to be able to move this ball and have it look like the pool table is still
00:59intact here, not this big gapping hole. So I'm going to undo that, take off the
01:03visibility of the red ball and select the pool table again.
01:06Now there is a couple of tricks here and again, I'm not going to spend a lot of
01:09time on all of these but I just want to give you some tips as you are working.
01:13I'm going to click in, with the Quick Selection tool, in this white area to select
01:18that space. We are going to be using the Clone tool to sample data from the
01:22rest of the pool table and then paste it here into this area where the red ball was.
01:27The reason why I'm making a selection that's kind of like a mask, a protector, so
01:31I don't accidentally paste over the real good texture that we already have here.
01:36Like the only thing I want to mess up is the area inside this cue ball.
01:40So I'm going to hit the letter S for the Clone Stamp tool and I'm going to hit
01:43the right bracket to make this a little bit bigger.
01:45I am going to hold down the Option key on the Mac, the Alt key on the PC to
01:49sample some pixels from over here on the pool table and then just go ahead and
01:53click and drag inside the pool table. If you need to, just click a bunch of
01:56times rather than clicking and dragging to fill up this space inside of this pool ball.
02:02Now I'm going to press Command+D or Ctrl+D on the PC to de-select that and then
02:08I'm going to clone around the edges to fill in those edges because they kind of
02:12like a glow because the ball is a little bit out of focus, so we could patch that up.
02:17Now if I zoom out, you can see that we have a pretty ugly red ball looking
02:23spot here on the pool table and that's totally fine because we are going to fix
02:27it easily with the Patch tool.
02:29So up here at the top in the toolbar, in the same category as the Spot Healing
02:33Brush tool that looks like a band-aid, just click and hold the button down to select
02:36the Patch tool. And the Patch tool is great to use in conjunction with the Clone Stamp tool.
02:41The Clone Stamp tool actually copies and paste actual pixels, but what the
02:44Patch tool will do is fix these pixels. After you've have been cloning for a while,
02:50you tend to get what I call Clone Stamp mush where there is kind of this
02:54lack of texture as we are seeing here with this red ball.
02:57So we are come in here with the Patch tool, kind of like a Lasso tool and click
03:00and drag around this area, creating a selection. Then inside the selection,
03:04click and drag to an area with good texture and you can kind of get a live
03:09update here on our original selection area to see what's that is going to look like.
03:12Once you find a good area of some nice texture, let go and it will blend that
03:18texture in with the color and lightening information of our original selection
03:23and if I hit Command+D or Ctrl+D to de- select, you can see that our little spot
03:27is completely gone and it looks like the red ball was never there.
03:31So you'll want to do that with the rest of the spots on the pool table and one of
03:36the things I'm willing to do also is reconstruct this pool table. This is where
03:41your inner artist can come out because you will need to kind of repaint,
03:46reconstruct a lot of this scene in order for it to look believable once we move the characters.
03:52Now reconstructing the inside of the pool table isn't that hard as we have seen
03:56but reconstructing the edges is a little bit more challenging. Let's zoom into
03:59the back here and I'm again going to hit the letter S for the Clone Stamp tool
04:03and I'm going to sample this pool table.
04:06I am just going to go ahead and again, I cross right on this line right here,
04:09hold the Option key, Alt key on the PC and click to sample and then thankfully,
04:14in CS4, they have a new default setting. So we are getting this little overlay
04:17here that lets us know as a guide kind of, where that's going to go,
04:21how we should line up that paint.
04:23So right now, I could see it right here in my cursor it's a little bit too low
04:26and I put it right about there and it looks like it's about the right spot.
04:31So now I can click and drag and click and drag, it looks like I might have gotten
04:36a little off there and I'm basically reconstructing this pool table little bit by
04:41little bit. It's essentially what you have to do for this trick to work because
04:45when we move the band members, we need to be able to have the pool table underneath them.
04:50So we need to basically rebuild all the pool table. Now you don't have to
04:54rebuild everything. You don't have to rebuild like this corner of the pool
04:57table and the right-hand corner of the pool table over here because the way
05:02that characters are, if we turn on YYYK 4, the band is called You Yell You Kick,
05:06so I name the guys in the background, YYYK 1, 2, 3, and 4 from left to right
05:12and then Marian is pretty easy to spot because she is the pretty girl in
05:15the front here. So she gets her own name. Sorry guys.
05:19So basically if we turn on YYYK 4, the guy in the far right here and Marian,
05:25then we see that corner is completely covered by these two people. So we'll
05:29probably never ever see the corner of that pool table. So there is no need to
05:33go through all that effort of reconstructing it.
05:36Now another thing we are going to need to reconstruct a lot is this background
05:38here and turn off Marian as well. We are going to need to fill this background
05:42in with data and the background is actually probably one of the easier parts
05:46to fill in. It might be little challenging if you are not sure what to do though.
05:49Another trick that I like to use if you have like a little strip like this of
05:52a pattern that you need to replicate a lot and basically all the background
05:57here, behind this guy, would need to be this wood paneling. So what we could do is
06:00zoom in and select the Rectangular Marquee tool and click and drag and make a
06:06thin selection here. Then we can press letter V for the Move tool. Then hold
06:11down the Option on the Mac or the Alt key on the PC and that will copy this texture.
06:17So we can move this texture over and we can keep doing that until we've
06:22extended the length of the guy that we need to fill in the background of.
06:28And I realize this doesn't look perfect but if you just have a starting texture like this,
06:32it's way easy to go back and fix something than to rebuild this wood
06:37paneling from nothing.
06:38So now that we have something there, I can press S for the Clone Stamp tool,
06:42and sample the edge of the wood paneling and then kind of paste over these
06:47edges that don't look all that great.
06:48So see that? We have basically like a much better looking texture here and
06:54of course we could do that with the wood paneling in the middle as well. It didn't
06:57really take too much to fix up these little tiny blemishes, much easier than
07:01painting this whole thing by hand again.
07:03Same thing with the green texture in the back here. We can keep clicking and
07:07then if we lose that texture again, because we have cloned so many times, again
07:11we could hit the letter J for the Patch tool, click to drag a selection and
07:16then move it to an area of the background with more texture, let go of the mouse
07:19and then we have this nice texture that looks like it was there
07:22in the background there the whole time.
07:24Now one of the most important things to realize about this project, because
07:27it is very time consuming, it's important to realize that you don't have to make
07:31everything super perfect. We are not going to be seeing this wood paneling very
07:35much at all. If we just move this character right here on the far right hand side,
07:38the YYYK 4 guy. We might move him the left a little bit and to the right
07:43a little bit. We just might get a little bit of that texture. We don't need all
07:46of it. So just remember that you don't have to do everything.
07:48Now let me show you one of the tricks and then I'm going to show you the
07:51finished product. Over here, we have the light that we cut out in the upper
07:55left-hand corner and we are going to probably move the lights a lot but we need
08:00to have this background wood windowsill filled in because if we just move the
08:05lights a little bit, we are going to see that and notice that absence right there.
08:09So we need to rebuild that from scratch but as you can see from the
08:11right hand side here, it's pretty ornate. So what do we do?
08:15Well, here is another trick. I'm going to turn off the visibility of the guy on
08:18the right-hand side, select the background layer and I'm going to select the
08:21Rectangular Marquee tool and I'm going to click and drag a selection area
08:26around that really pretty ornate corner. Then what I'm going to do is I'm going
08:30to go to the Layer menu at the top of the screen and select Layer > New > Layer
08:34via Copy. We don't want to cut, we don't want to cut a hole here because we
08:37want this windowsill corner staying there. We just want another one.
08:40So I copied it and now we have a separate layer here and what I'm going to do
08:44is I'm going to select this layer and hit Command+T or Ctrl+T on the PC to
08:48enter Free Transform mode. And then what I'm going to do is grab the right hand
08:52side of the box and drag it to the left. Alternatively, I can undo that and
08:57then right-click and select Flip Horizontal and now it's facing the other direction.
09:02So now we can move it over and basically move this around until we get it in the
09:07approximate spot here and it's hard to tell since we haven't done the rest of this.
09:11We might want to just skew a little for perspective. Something around
09:14that looks pretty good. We could hit Enter to accept it and now we have this
09:18ornate corner and then we go back in again and just polish this up with the
09:22Clone Stamp tool and just kind of polish up that grain around those edges.
09:27So you can see that we do have some toning work to do. This is definitely dark
09:31over here because of the shadow under the light and this is much lighter but
09:35you can see that we have reconstructed something that was really ornate in a
09:38very short amount of time because we took data from another part of the image.
09:41You might want to do the same thing here with the television set. What's behind
09:45his head? I don't know but it probably looks like this area over here, so we
09:47could sample from this area and paint it over here. Same thing with the bench
09:54over here. We could sample the bench and then paint where the bench is.
09:59That's a little off but you get the idea.
10:01Now let me show you the final product here. I already went through and fixed
10:04all the cloning stuff and show you what the end example looks like in this YYYK Cut
10:08Up FINISH.psd file. So here is the final product but you will notice if we take
10:13off the layers here, what's going on. This guy right here, YYYK 3 guy, he was
10:19the hardest to build because he was the most hidden and his garb was the most
10:25complex. He had a striped shirt and a vest and he had his arm up here and he was mostly covered.
10:31So he was the biggest challenge and if you notice here, I did a real terrible job.
10:35This is not something I'm super proud of, but at the same time if I was
10:41doing this for a client, this is exactly what I would do because chances are,
10:44you would not see his texture all that much. It looks good as is and I'll just
10:49move her in front of him, so I don't have to see that much of those nasty
10:53textures from him but at the same time if you just see it for a brief minute,
10:56he is in the back, you probably wouldn't even notice.
10:59I took the data from his chest right here, from his arm and then I took the
11:03data from the left side of his vest to the right side of his vest and again,
11:07I know this looks disgusting when we are zoomed in on it. But because time is money,
11:11sometimes you got to fake things like that and as you do this more often,
11:14you'll realize where you can cut corners and not have it look terrible.
11:18So if I zoom out again, let me show you this whole image in a glance, we have
11:22Marian by herself, we have the red ball in its own layer, the purple ball in
11:25its own layer and the cue ball, and now if could just take all these layers off,
11:30 there is the finger tip because remember we are going to make this pool stick
11:33shoot underneath his index finger. So we can turn that on and off as a separate thing.
11:39You will notice that I have also filled in the white areas on his hand where
11:42the finger was. The cue stick is also a separate entity now. I completed the
11:48cue stick with cloning. Same thing with the 8-ball, the orange striped ball,
11:52the green striped ball. These are now independent. They are painted fully, so
11:55we can move them around as we please. And we have the YYYK guy on the left side
11:59and you could see him. It's not the best clone job but it's something you
12:02probably wouldn't notice if you just moved him a little bit from left to the right.
12:05It's pretty good.
12:06Then we have this guy, number 2, the bench is filled in behind him and we also
12:10have the guy number 3 in the back underneath the pool table. We take off Marian.
12:14You can see the pool table is pretty much complete. Again, I didn't really go to all
12:17the trouble of re-sculpting the pool hole here. If we had to, we would
12:20just copy and flip the pocket on the left-hand side and put it on the right-hand side
12:24just like we did here in the upper left-hand corner, the image with this
12:27windowsill and then there is the lights in the back.
12:30You will notice I also took down the neon sign. I wasn't sure what logo that was,
12:33 although I was pretty sure we didn't have the rights to show it and it was
12:36kind of getting in the way and it was really a complex thing as you can see
12:40over here at the top of the screen. That was a really complex logo and I didn't
12:44feel like rebuilding it. Again, time is money. It was easier just to paint the
12:48green over that area and clone it out and act like it was never there than try to reconstruct it.
12:52Same thing with the television set. There was a kind of a glare here and rather
12:56than trying to recreate the glare, which I guess wouldn't have been too
12:58difficult. I didn't want to have to deal with that. So I just made it all black.
13:02Another thing we'll see when we go back in to After Effects is we'll
13:06probably darken all these stuff. So even a lot of these blemishes that look
13:09really terrible now, won't be so significant when we are animating.
13:13Practice makes perfect. You really got to get in there and work with the Clone
13:16Stamp tool, the Patch tool, and a lot of this was just the Brush tool.
13:19A lot of this, I just didn't want a white background, so I just painted it with black
13:23and if you saw a little bit of that black, you probably wouldn't notice it was there.
13:27But having a background that is this filled in and having a pool table that's
13:30also this filled in will give us a lot more leeway when we are playing with
13:36this and animating in After Effects.
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Creating displacement maps
00:00All right, so at this point, the tough work, the laborious labor-intensive stuff
00:05is pretty much in the past and behind us. In this optional step, we're
00:09going to look at creating displacement maps. Now I realize that earlier on in
00:13this training series, we've already looked at creating displacement map. So
00:16we'll go through this rather quickly but nonetheless, I want to show you what I
00:19was going to do here.
00:20Like I mentioned, displacement maps are optional. In this document, I have
00:23created a few starter displacement layers for you, the DIS Marian and DIS pool
00:27table. The reason why I'm contemplating displacing these layers is because they
00:32appear to jump 3D planes. See the guys here in the back, they appear to be
00:37flat like cards. So we can move them in front and behind one another and it's no big deal.
00:44But Marian here, her legs are behind the pool table and her hand is one of the
00:49things closest to the camera. And again, the same thing with the pool table;
00:53the pool table is in the back of the shot kind of but it's also kind of in
00:56the very front of the shot.
00:58So these are the type of things that I usually use displacement maps on.
01:01Now when we get over to After Effects, we might decide that hey, we don't need
01:03these displacement maps. They're not working for us, but it may be kind of fun
01:06to have them. So we're going to look at making them here.
01:09Let's start with Marian. I don't need these other layers on right now. So I'm
01:12going to select the Marian layer. Take her Opacity down to about 30-40%,
01:17somewhere around there and lock the layer by clicking the padlock at the top of
01:20the Layers panel with the layer selected.
01:22I am going to select the DIS Marian layer, then I'm going to hit the letter D
01:25and the letter X to make sure I'm painting with pure white. Then I'm going to
01:28hit the number 1 on my keyboard to paint with 10% opacity brush.
01:33Actually, in this case, I want to paint with a pure white rafter back.
01:36So I might hit 5 to change my Opacity to 50. Paint with that really quickly, so I
01:42know I have pure white. As I mentioned earlier in this training, that's what I would like to do.
01:46Right after that is nowhere my front most object is by painting it pure white.
01:51Then I could dial that back and then maybe push 1 on the keyboard to get 10%
01:55opacity brush and then everything else I could paint a little bit more manually.
01:59But I would like to know where the brightest part of my image is. So we'll
02:03paint this a little bit and I want her forearm to be a little bit behind her
02:07hand so it will be almost white but not quite. And then this part of her arm
02:12will be a little bit behind her forearm. So we'll paint that brighter.
02:16Again, the farther we get back with her, the darker we want that paint to be
02:20and her hand will be a little bit in front of her legs. So we'll make that a
02:23little bit brighter. And her hair is going to come out a little bit more than
02:27her neck. So we want to lighten that up a little bit, lighten up her face and
02:32hit the left bracket key to reduce the size of our brush and paint her nose
02:36just a little bit, so it's a little bit brighter.
02:38It's always a good idea to take off the visibility of the layer and check your map.
02:41As you can see, this is kind of a mingled mess; we have some dark areas
02:45around the elbow. We definitely don't want those dark because we want this to
02:48be more in the front, and we also don't want big dark gaps next to her shoulder
02:52because sometimes with the paint strokes, you kind of get big gaps like that.
02:56You got to be careful.
02:57So this looks like bit more filled in there. And I want the area where her neck
03:02is to be darker than her chin but that's pure black; we don't want it to be
03:06that far behind. So we can lighten that up a little bit, lighten up her face,
03:09kind of balance those tones a little bit more, a little brightness to her hair
03:14on the edge and maybe a little bit more brightness to her hand, forearm area here. Here we go.
03:19Even though it looks pretty mingled, I think that's going to make a fairly
03:22decent displacement map. Again, we could always change it later but for now,
03:25it's pretty good. Let's go to the pool table now. I'll do the same thing,
03:29select the pool table layer, take the Opacity down to about 30-40% somewhere
03:33around there and lock it down and then select the DIS pool table layer, the
03:37layer we're going to be using for displacement map.
03:39Next, I'm going to hit G on the keyboard for the Gradient tool. Click up here
03:43in the Options bar, upper left-hand corner to go to our Gradient Editor.
03:47I'm just going to click this one, third from the right, which is the black and white gradient.
03:51Then I'm going to start at almost the top of the pool table and click and drag
03:56down, straight down almost to the bottom of the pool table and then let that go.
04:00And what's we have done there, we should have a gradient that goes from
04:03pure black at the top of the pool table or the part of the pool table we want
04:06to be farthest away from us, and then pure white down at the bottom of the
04:11screen, the part of the pool table we want closest to us.
04:13That's all we're going to displace here but if you want to go crazy with this,
04:16if you like that displaced look where things are kind of have realistic and
04:20brought to life, you could go into the individual guys in the band and displace
04:24them also, and have all of them displace in their own spheres where there each
04:28one of them is kind of moving realistically. It's a great look. We're just not
04:32going to take this to that level.
04:34If you are interested I have created this YYYK Displace FINISH file where you
04:38can see a displacement map that I took a little bit more time with and also a
04:42pool table displacement map that I take a little bit more time with as well,
04:45just so you could see a little bit more skillfully crafted before and after.
04:50And now the real fun begins. We get to see the benefit of what we've done in Photoshop in After Effects.
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Importing the PSD into After Effects
00:00All right, in this quick movie, we're just going to import the Photoshop
00:04document we have been creating. But I just want to make sure we're on the same
00:06page as far as how we are importing this.
00:08I am going to the YYYK Photoshop Project folder and we're going to select the
00:14YYYK Displace FINISH.psd. Remember, since we have displacement maps, best idea
00:20to import this as Composition where things work out properly. You don't want to
00:25choose Composition-Cropped Layers and you definitely don't want to choose Footage.
00:27So choose Composition, go ahead and open this up. There are no Layer Option
00:32choices here, we don't have Live 3D and we don't have any Layer Styles. So knock
00:36yourself out in choosing those options and whatever you like to do. Go ahead and
00:39click OK, and then you'll notice when we have this selected in the Project
00:43panel that the pixel dimensions are in 1944x1296 which is even larger than HD.
00:49One thing I'd like to do when I'm working in Photoshop, especially if I have
00:52access to a really big high quality photo is I'd like to keep it at big size.
00:57Sometimes when you are animating things in After Effects, you are moving things
00:59around in 3D, you are zooming in close to them, whatever. I think it's a good
01:02idea to have them at a really big size. That way we can have the camera zoom in,
01:07have them get much larger than they normally would be and the quality will not be degraded.
01:12Now we probably wouldn't output at that size. We probably create another comp.
01:16Maybe an NTSC DV size composition and then put this master composition inside
01:22that composition and export from there. But if you have access to bigger source
01:26material and your computer's processing speed and power can handle that,
01:29then by all means use that. It's a good idea.
01:32As we open this up, we got to remember to take off the visibility of the DIS
01:36layers, the DIS Marian and DIS pool table layers, and also to take the opacity
01:42of the Marian layer back up to 100%. Hit T on the keyboard to access that shortcut.
01:47Select the pool table, hit T and do the same thing, drag that to the right,
01:51brought that back up to 100% and from here we're good to go, and in the next step,
01:55we're going to actually displace these layers using the displacement maps that we've created.
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Displacing the layers
00:00So now we are going to displace a couple of our layers here. I always love this part.
00:05Let's go over to and select that pool table layer. Apply the Displacement
00:09Map effect to it and I'm going to go over here in the Effect Controls panel.
00:14For the top down, I'm going to take Displacement Map layer, the drop-down to
00:18DIS pool table. I'm going to Use For Horizontal Displacement to Luminance.
00:23I'm going to change Use For Vertical Displacement to Off. Take Max Vertical
00:28Displacement to zero. We are ready to rock.
00:31I am going to hit the Home key, make sure I'm at the first frame of the
00:33animation and then going to increase Max Horizontal Displacement to 20. Click
00:39the Stopwatch, hit the End key, take Max Horizontal Displacement to negative 20.
00:46Now if we preview this, we have a pretty sweet animation of our pool table
00:53moving in 3D and once this renders here, it's not playing in real time as you
00:59can see here. Once it finishes playing through this, you can see that it moves
01:03in a very realistic 3- dimensional way, very cool, I love that.
01:09Now, let's go to the top of our layers stack and select the Marian layer and
01:14turn that layer's visibility on. Go ahead and apply Displacement Map to that
01:18one and again, let's take the Displacement Map layer from Marian to DIS Marian.
01:24Let's take Use For Horizontal Displacement to Luminance, Use For Vertical
01:29Displacement to Off and Max Vertical Displacement to zero, same as before.
01:34But you will notice as I move the Max Horizontal Displacement value that we are
01:40seeing some problems with our displacement, at least in my case here. Perhaps
01:44you didn't make the same mistakes with your Displacement Map that I made with mine.
01:49So as I move this around, I could see that her forehead and chin
01:54particularly are a little bit off.
01:56Now eventually, if you distort this like crazy, it's going to look terrible.
01:59There is no Displacement Map in the world that's going to look perfect
02:02completely at every single value. But all the same, we are not getting the same
02:07amount of value with her chin and forehead, they are a little bit too dark,
02:13more than the rest of her face is.
02:15Now I'm really happy with her hand and her arm, looks pretty good. It distorts
02:20a little bit weird right here but that's okay and her body is displacing really well.
02:27Her hand pops-out a little bit and there is a little bit of a bubble
02:31right here, right below her hand that I'm not liking, but since it's over a
02:34black dress, we are still going to correct like this and darken it even more.
02:37I think it's going to be fine for our purposes here.
02:40So the next step then is to fix the displacement map and reload that back into After Effects.
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Reloading altered footage
00:01So we need to fix our Displacement Map for Marian here. I have added this
00:04Displacement Map and I have kind of given an extreme value so we can see what's
00:08going on. What's happening is that her chin is pulling in the same direction as
00:13her knee and that means we have probably made the Displacement Map where her
00:16chin is a little bit too dark.
00:18Again, this is a common problem that we have when we are displacing objects
00:24where on the layer, you will have one object that supposed to be in front of
00:28another object and so we have the dark dress or the map would be painted dark
00:33and her arm would be painted light for the Displacement Map.
00:36So you need to go and remedy that situation. So her forehead, her chin, her
00:41forearm and also there is this kind of like weird bump right here underneath
00:45her hand, as we move this around, it appears as if there is kind of like a lump
00:50in her leg or something like that. So I think the map might be off there.
00:53So I'm going to leave this set at negative 30 so we get intense reference.
00:58I am going to go back to the Project panel, open up the folder with the
01:02Photoshop layers here and on any layer, go to the Edit menu and select Edit
01:06Original. We could also use the keyboard shortcut Command+E on the Mac or
01:09Ctrl+E on the PC. The document will then open up in Photoshop and we can really
01:16see the problem here without even having After Effects as a reference.
01:19We see that her chin and neck are way too dark here and we could also see the
01:24dark areas of her forearm, that her forehead is little too dark. And we could
01:28also see if we turn on the Marian layer, underneath her hand there is this kind
01:31of light paint splotch and that is what's creating that artificial bulge under her hand.
01:38So first, let's fix up the major problems. So I'm going to hit B for the Brush tool.
01:40We have got 10% Opacity brush, so it's nice and gradual and I also have a
01:46soft feathered edge to that brush and I'm painting with white. So, first I'm
01:50going to lighten up the inside of her forearm and then I want to lighten up her
01:54neck a little bit, pretty much her whole head and forehead. I'll turn on the
01:58Marian layer while I'm doing this. Top of her head is a little dark as well.
02:02So we'll bring this out and her chin, I think that should pretty much do it, a
02:06little bit more lightness on her neck, a little bit more on the right side face
02:11and hair there and then I also want to hit the letter X to paint with black and
02:17I'm going to make that area where her hand is, right underneath that area, a
02:21little bit darker so that blends in with the rest of the dress.
02:23Now it looks pretty good there. So I'm going to hit Command+S on the Mac or
02:28Ctrl+S on the PC to save that, which is a necessary step for those changes to
02:32show up in After Effects. Then when I go back over into After Effects, I want
02:36to -- Oh! It automatically did that for me, I didn't have to do anything.
02:39But typically what you have to do is right- click and select Reload Footage on one
02:44of the layers inside of this folder, not the composition, not the folder, you
02:48actually have to select one of the Photoshop layers and select Reload Footage there.
02:53And like we just saw, sometimes it automatically corrects itself and reloads
02:57for you but my experience is that more often than not you actually have to
03:01manually reload the footage. But now we see that even though we have an extreme
03:05value for the displacement that she is still looking really good here. Her chin
03:08and forehead are only slightly off. Her forearm is also looking much better as well.
03:13So now we can go ahead and animate this and we'll start out with a positive
03:16value, because that's what we did with the pool table and it looks like I can
03:20go to about positive 14 or so and then I'll hit the End key to go to the end of
03:25my composition, take this to a negative number and we could probably go to
03:29about negative 20 or so, maybe negative 22 and that still looks good. I really
03:35like the changes that we made there. It's definitely a big improvement.
03:38So now I'm going to hit the Home key and preview this and we could see what the
03:41pool table and Marian look like displaced together. I'm feeling this is going
03:46to be very cool. So let's go ahead and preview those and see what they look like.
03:50So now as we play this footage rendered back, we can see both Marian and the
03:55pool table moving in what appears to be 3D, really it's just displaced.
03:59But wow! Isn't that an amazing look? It really looks like she is sitting on a pool
04:03table and we have a virtual camera and we are just kind of panning around her
04:07and she is just kind of like standing still. That just looks amazing.
04:10I'm feeling once we add the other guys in the band to this it's going to look even
04:14more impressive and so let's get to that.
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Positioning layers in 3D
00:01So, now we get to position these layers in 3-D space, but before we position
00:05them in 3-D space basically by changing the Z position, we need to create the Z
00:10position by making these layers 3-dimensional.
00:12So, I'm going to click one of these layers to select it in the Timeline panel,
00:16making sure that's active, and I'm going to press Command+A or Ctrl+A on the PC
00:20to select all the layers, then come over here underneath of 3-D cube, and click
00:24once in the 3-D cube and all selected layers will become 3-D layers.
00:28Now there are a couple of different ways that we can approach this. We could
00:32select, let's say one layer at a time, and we could click-and-drag in the
00:36Composition panel on the blue arrow, and drag that left or right to move these
00:42layer in 3-D space. Likewise we could select the layer in the Timeline panel,
00:47hit the letter P for position, and then adjust the Z position that way.
00:51And either way; no matter which method you choose, I recommend leaving position
00:54open for the different layers, so we could tell exactly what the values are
00:58both relative and absolute in comparison to one another.
01:02Now, we can also, let's say we go to a 4 view here, down at the bottom of the
01:06Composition panel, change this to 4 Views. Now we can go to the Top view, which
01:10is by default up here in the upper left -hand corner, and then we could select
01:14the layers one at a time, and then move them here in the top layer.
01:18So really this is a top view of what our layers look like. And the Marian layer
01:22right now is in front of all the others. So it looks kind of below it here in
01:26the Top view, but it's closer to the camera, which would be down here looking upwards.
01:31So essentially, it just seems like we have one layer here upfront, and then all
01:36of the other layers on one plain back that way. So, say for example, I selected
01:40the Background layer. I could come over here with the blue arrow and
01:43click-and-drag on that Background layer. Then I could look over here at the
01:47Active Camera to see what that's looking like.
01:50Now, likewise you could just drag it on the Z-axis here, on one of the Side
01:54views, this is the right view here. Now realize it first, that when you are
01:58used to working with all these pretty colors, and things looking kind of
02:01normal, and then you go to one of these views where it's just a bunch of weird
02:03sticky lines, then it might seem little abstract at first, but once you start
02:08playing in 3-dimensional space these views are absolutely necessary. Especially
02:13once you start bringing cameras and lights into the mix and you are moving
02:17around the 3-D scene, you've got to be able to look at these Top and Side views
02:21to get a better idea of where everything is positioned in 3-D space.
02:25For now, I'm just going to take the 4 Views drop-down back to 1 View, and I'm
02:29going to manually adjust these properties here. You will notice that as we
02:34reduce or make the Z position negative, we are actually bringing things closer to the camera.
02:40So what we want to do is, the things like Marian here and the pool table, we
02:44want to give those a negative value so they come closer to us, and things like
02:48the background, we'll hit P for position. We want to give those positive
02:51values, so those scale backwards.
02:54What you might want to do also, if you start increasing the Z position of that
02:58background and it gets really far away back there. Now you might also want to
03:02scale that up a little bit, so it's still big, it's still covering the entire
03:06background, but it's just a little farther back.
03:09Now of course you want to be prudent with this though, you don't want to move
03:12it too far back as then, the farther back you move it, the more dramatically
03:16it's going to move around, once we have our 3-D layers in place.
03:21So this is probably a little bit too much, I'll probably just scale this down a
03:24little bit, keeping in mind that we are going to crop-off probably the edges of
03:27this as we put this into another composition. And I'll go into here, and let's
03:32say the You Yell You Kick 3 (YYYK 3) guy, and maybe give him a positive value
03:37so he goes back as well.
03:39But again, you want to balance this Z position, against the Background Z
03:42position. Select the layer and hit P. So we have 1467 here and 233, so I think,
03:48we are going to move this guy back even a little bit more.
03:52Be careful also as you are moving layers in Z space, because if we change this
03:56view to the Top view, and zoom out, we have this guy here, and then if we click
04:01on the Background, the Background is actually way over here, beyond what we
04:05could see in the Top view.
04:06And if we were to select this, You Yell You Kick (YYYK) guy and move him back
04:11behind the Background, like this, then we would not be able to see it anymore.
04:16So if I take this into a 4 View situation and we'll select the You Yell You
04:23Kick 3 (YYYK 3) guy, and then you'll notice that as I -- let's change this view
04:28to an Active View so we could see what's going on. Active Camera and then as we
04:33zoom out, let's say, look at this side here, this Right View. This is the You
04:37Yell You Kick 3 (YYYK 3) guy in the back, and you notice that as I'm looking in
04:41my Active Camera view to see what's going on. As I move this back farther, it's
04:45getting back to the Background. But once I go pass the Background, then he is
04:49behind the Background.
04:51So remember that once layers are 3-D, they can cross through or in other words,
04:56intersect other 3-D layers. So if you've got a layer that's disappeared, then
05:01this is what you want to do. You want to come to one of these boring Side or
05:05Top views, so that you can see exactly where the layer is.
05:09Now let's go in and click on the pool table for example, and I hit the letter P
05:14and adjust the pool table to come forward a little bit, as we do that you'll
05:18notice that a lot of these balls might disappear, because they were in front
05:22and now the pool table has moved in front. So you probably want to adjust the
05:253-D depth of those, although we're not going to do that right now.
05:30Now, we are going to off camera, so not like right now in this training where
05:34we are going to go and offset the Z position to all these different layers.
05:38But once we've done that what we can do is go to the Layer menu, create a new
05:44camera. I'm just going to use the default settings, click OK. And with this
05:48camera selected, we can click on the Unified Camera tool, new in After Effects
05:52CS4, and we see how far away this guy is back in the back.
05:57But as we move this around, you could really see the depth of what we got going
06:02on here. The lights are really good. They are giving a sense of depth to this
06:06whole project. This is obviously way to intense for what we want to create.
06:12You get a sense of how cool this project is, once you put it in 3-D.
06:15Now one thing that you might want to consider, there are a couple of issues
06:19here, all of these guys have their hands on top of a pool table, except for the
06:25guy that's way back here. But they are also standing behind the pool table.
06:30That presents a real issue.
06:32If we really want to take the time to fix this problem, we have to go back to
06:35Photoshop and then -- this sounds really graphic, but we have to cut their arms
06:40off, so that their arms and their bodies could exist in different 3-D planes.
06:46In other words that their hand could be in front of the pool table, and their
06:49body can be behind it.
06:50Now we didn't take this project to that level of depth, so we'll have to be
06:54tricky about keeping these guys with the pool table, so that they don't look
07:00like they are too far or removed from it. So that's way it still looks like
07:04their hands are in front and their bodies are behind it.
07:06Now we could go in and animate this camera, and maybe even like fly it into the
07:12scene as we zoomed in a little bit closer, some great effects that way, but I'm
07:16going to show you another way to control 3D layers using something called a Null Object.
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Using a null object
00:00So instead of using a camera, we are going to use what I consider to be a much
00:04easier way to animate 3D scenes and that is with a Null Object. First let's
00:09create a null object. You do this the same way you create any other type of
00:13layer. You go to the Layer menu or right -click in the Timeline panel. I got to
00:17have that selected first, Layer > New > Null Object.
00:22Now a null object is what you are seeing here, this little red square, is
00:26basically nothing. I mean the word null means nothing, so a null object is
00:31literally a nothing object. But because they are nothing, they are used to
00:36control other layers and what's really cool is that if all of these layers are
00:41parented to this null, the null is a parent of all these layers, then when we
00:45move the null, all of the layers will move around this null object and keep in
00:50mind that parenting controls four attributes that is Position, Anchor Point,
00:55Rotation and Scale.
00:57So the Position, Anchor Point, Rotation and Scale of these null, become the
01:01common Position, Anchor Point, Rotation and Scale of all of the layers. So the
01:06changes we make to the position, anchor point, rotation and scale of the null
01:10object, also accordingly adjust every other layer. So let's go ahead and hit
01:15Command+A or Ctrl+A on the PC to select all layers. Actually I'm going to
01:19Command-click or Ctrl-click the null object and then take one of the pick whips
01:25from anyone of the layers and drag it to the null object and then all layers
01:31will be parented to the null.
01:32Now in order for us to move in 3D space, we need to have the layers in 3D
01:37space, but we also need the null to exist in 3D space, so I'm going to click
01:41the cube here. Now you'll notice that there is a visibility icon for the null
01:44object. That's just this little square here. By the way it doesn't do us any
01:47good in this instance, so I'm just going to turn-off the Visibility to get that
01:50out of our way. Note that visibility does not affect the parenting relationship in anyway.
01:56So I'm going to select the null object, hit the letter R to reveal its Rotation
01:59properties. Now watch this. As I adjust rotation, we see that all of the layers
02:06are rotating around the null object. So you can see as I mentioned, it's so
02:11much easier to animate a project or an entire scene rather using a null object
02:16than it is with the camera. Of course, cameras are much more powerful but they
02:20are much more converse in having a point of interest and a focal range and all
02:24these different attributes you need to keep track of.
02:27So in this case, I'm going to animate this, starting at a positive number here,
02:31+10 or so. Let me lessen out at +6, click the stopwatch for Y Rotation, hit the
02:38N key to go to the end to the comp and then take this to a negative number and
02:42we'll pane to pretend camera round, actually we are just moving the null object
02:46to basically move through our scene.
02:48We could also select the null, hit P for position, then hit Home key, click the
02:53stopwatch for Position and then hit the End key and create another keyframe for
02:58position which basically look like we are zooming out a little bit, so that way
03:02we are rotating the virtual camera and zooming in as well.
03:06So let's hit the Home key and preview our animation so far. So as this null
03:11object moves around, everything just seems to work and flow right. We have
03:15Marian displacing, the pool table displacing, the whole thing just really moves
03:20well in 3D. There are some parts where this guy appears to slide too much, here
03:24on the left hand side and again we could remedy that by cutting up his arms,
03:28separating it from his body in Photoshop, so that we can put them on two
03:32different 3D planes, but I think this is a pretty cool scene as it is.
03:36I like this background motion, you could definitely see the difference in 3D
03:39depth between Marian and the guy standing behind her, and our Clone Job works
03:44pretty good, even though remember, I reconstructed his shirt and that vase in
03:48his hand. But when it is moving by quickly like that, you can't really tell.
03:53Also all the stuff we did to the background, it's looking really good.
03:56We are seeing the depth cues from the lights, look how the lights pass over all those
04:00background objects, and they appear just kind of hovering and floating in space
04:04in front of it. So a lot of really cool 3D stuff going on here.
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Animating the layers
00:00Now our project is looking pretty good at this point, but if we wanted to
00:03further bring it to life, we could animate various objects in the scene.
00:08We could even combine some live video footage with this to make it seem even more
00:12realistic and believable.
00:13In this case though, what we are going to do is we are going to animate this
00:16guy here, YYYK guy number 2, as we'll call him. We are going to animate him
00:21using the pool stick to hit the cue ball here. So the way that we are going to
00:24do this is by animating the guy using the Puppet tool and we are going to
00:27animate the cue stick using just simple position.
00:30So first let's select YYYK2 and let's go ahead and select the Puppet tool in
00:36the toolbar up at the top here. Let's go ahead anchor down his hand with the
00:39Puppet Pin and maybe his shoulder and maybe his neck, maybe his torso, and also
00:46probably down here on his legs. And then of course, we need one on his hand to
00:52move the hand. This is the only one we are going to be animating here.
00:54Now let's move out in time a little bit, just a few frames here. We went out
00:59about 10 frames. That's probably good. Or maybe a little bit more, about 20 frames.
01:02And I'm going to grab that hand and move it back along the same axis as the cue stick,
01:09and then I'm also going to move out again in time. This time to about a
01:14second and 20 frames and then click and drag his hand again on the axis and
01:21move it down the line a little bit as if he already has hit the ball.
01:26And you want to make sure this lines up with the axis of the cue stick.
01:29So mine are a little bit high here. Bring that down. Good, now let's back up a
01:34little bit and we have him, as we scrub this, we see him backing up his hand
01:38and then boom, moving it forward and hitting the ball.
01:42Now what we might want to do is come back to this keyframe, maybe we could just
01:45select this layer, hit the letter U to select all the keyframes, hit the letter J
01:49to back up to this keyframe and then right-click on it and select Keyframe
01:53Assistant > Easy Ease Out. That way it will go a little bit slow when it's
01:57leaving, but then it will speed up as he goes to hit the ball and in order for
02:03this to really look great, we'll have to of course go into the Graph Editor
02:07and play with those curves a little bit to make sure that it actually looks
02:11realistic as he's hitting that pool cue.
02:13For now, let's go ahead and close up that layer, go to the cue stick, hit the
02:17Home key to get to the first frame and actually what I'll do is select the guy
02:21layer and hit the letter U to reveal his keyframe so you can use those as a reference.
02:25Actually, you might want to even close up this. I just need to have these as the reference.
02:29So I'm going to select the cue stick and I'm going to hit the letter P for
02:33Position and click the stopwatch for Position and then let's move out in time
02:38to where this other keyframe is. If this keyframe was showing here, then when
02:41we press K it would jump to the next keyframe.
02:44Let's go ahead and move this cue stick rather. I actually need the Selection
02:47tool for this. Let's move it back in the upper left, so it look like it's still
02:52in his hand there. You may want to zoom in a little closer just to make sure
02:56you got this in the right spot.
02:57Next, just go to the next keyframe over here, using the Puppet keyframe as a
03:02reference and then we'll move the cue stick to still be in his hand and to make
03:08sure that they stay lined up, I'm going to right-click on the second keyframe
03:11and use Easy Ease Out on that keyframe as well, so they stay matched up.
03:15Now I'm going to hit the letter N to set the end of the work area, hit Home and
03:19then press 0 on the numeric keypad to do a RAM preview of our animation thus far.
03:23So now as we play this back, you could see him cut back and then go to hit the ball.
03:28Now there are a few problems with this. Number 1, I think the biggest
03:31problem is that he is hitting really slowly here which looks kind of weird, and
03:35maybe he's just setting up the shot though, so that's feasible.
03:37Another big problem is that at one point just a couple of frames here,
03:42this index finger, which is a separate layer, it should be in front of that cue stick.
03:47It actually goes behind it for a second. So what we need to do is go
03:51back to our fingertip, hit P for Position, go to one of those offending frames
03:56and adjust the Z position until it is in front of the cue stick for all of
04:03these frames and it looks like that just about did it.
04:05Now to speed this up, I'm going to select the cue stick layer, press U and
04:10the YYYK layer and press U, so we can look at our keyframes here and let's drag
04:16those two keyframes so that they are closer, so it takes less time to hit the ball
04:20and that way it will speed up that animation, and then once we get to this
04:25point where the ball is hit by the pool stick or the cue stick, then what we
04:30need to do is move the cue ball.
04:32Now it actually starts back here, so what we need to do is go up to the cue ball
04:37and select it, and move it, so that it is closer to where he's going to
04:43hit it there and then we could go over to this next keyframe and make sure that
04:47they make contact. We may want to bring that up just a little bit there and
04:51then at that point, at this keyframe, we can click the stopwatch for the cue ball,
04:55click the stopwatch for position and then we could move out in time and
05:00make the cue ball move or whatever as if he'd hit it.
05:03Again we have the same problem that it's going to be covered up by the pool
05:07table as we move it. So what we want to do is adjust the Z position of that
05:11until he is in front of the pool table and stays in front of the pool table.
05:15Now if we really want to get creative here, we could move this cue ball
05:18along the X-axis here and move it like behind Marian's arm or something and
05:23have it come fly out at the camera. Maybe the band's logo could then be on the cue ball,
05:28if we wanted to do that. I'm just going to undo that for now.
05:31Now again there is a lot we could do here, but let's just see what our final
05:34results are thus far. Play it back, he hits the ball and it moves. Now it's a
05:39little robotic and it looks like it's going to like sawing into his index
05:43finger here a little bit. We might want to play with maybe anchor point
05:46rotation of this cue stick. It looks like his hand and the cue stick might be
05:50off just a little bit. Obviously we could improve the timing of this and
05:54the speed of the ball but I love how we've really just brought this to life, very cool stuff.
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Enhancing color
00:00So the final, but definitely not least important step we're going to do here is
00:05to correct it for color. Now let's start by adding some life to these lights here.
00:09Now let's go ahead and select the Lights layer, and let's go ahead and
00:13apply the Glow effect to the lights layer.
00:16That automatically makes our lights look alive here, and let's take the Glow
00:21Threshold down to 40 and the Glow Radius up to 20. Now let's go ahead and
00:27animate them. We're going to apply a Wiggle expression. Go ahead and
00:30Option-click or Alt-click on the PC, the Glow Threshold stopwatch and that'll
00:35automatically take you down to the Timeline panel. There you'll have text that
00:38is selected. Go ahead and replace it with this text. Wiggle (5,10) hit again.
00:45We'll cover what the Wiggle expression does and how to use it more fully later
00:49on in this training series.
00:50But for now click away from the text to accept it and now as we preview this,
00:54we can kind of just skim it here, and we could see as we go from frame to
00:58frame, these lights are flickering, as if they were old lights in a pool hall.
01:01They're just kind of flickering or barely on. I really love this look. Again,
01:06anything you can do to bring your scene to life makes it look less like a
01:10photo and more like video or a special effect shot.
01:13Now what are the problems is they're both on the same layer. They are both
01:17going to flicker and glow in the exact same way, which might not look too
01:21believable. So what we could do is mask off one of these lights, duplicate the layer,
01:27and then mask off the other light on the duplicate, and that way you
01:30have two independent layers that can have two different expressions and
01:34therefore flicker independently.
01:36For what I'm trying to go for, that works for me though. So I'm going to close
01:38up the Lights layer and I'm going to right click in this area in the timeline
01:43to the left of the source name of the layer and it's kind of like a blank no-man's zone
01:48of the timeline panel. I'm going to right click here and go to New Adjustment Layer.
01:53First let's start out with a little hue /saturation. This is a little bit too
01:58saturated for me. I kind of want to have a little bit more vintage look to it.
02:02I think the art of the shot, the nature of what they are doing, their clothes.
02:06It kind of is not a very saturated type look. It has a more of like a vintage
02:11look and feel. So we'll help that along by taking down this Master Saturation
02:14value to about negative 25 or so.
02:16Next, let's apply Levels. And let's go ahead and drag the right triangle right
02:21in the histogram to the left, until it gets to that first little speckle right there.
02:25Now we'll brighten our highlights, and our little Midtone slider.
02:29Let's go ahead and drag that to the right. So we darken this considerably. Now here's
02:34where the rules definitely stop applying if we've been using any rules so far.
02:38Because this is all to taste.
02:40Another aspect of color correction is that the band has kind of a light skin
02:44here and the background is darker. So the more we darken the midtones,
02:49the more that's the band member seem to pop, and really they are the focus here,
02:53not this background.
02:54And it's very busy, a lot of noisy stuff in the background, the windowsill,
02:57the TV, the bench, and so as we adjust for color here, we can make the band seem
03:02even more prominent, which is again what we're really going for. The last thing
03:06I'm going to do here I think is apply Color Balance, and going to go ahead and
03:11apply that to our adjustment layer, and my intention here is to make this a little bit colder.
03:16Usually when you're in a pool hall or something like that, it's a little bit darker,
03:20a little bit more cool color. So if I want to remove some red from the
03:24shadows - woo, instantly that just looks so cool. Maybe a little bit of red
03:28from the highlights so her skin tone is little bit more washed out. The same
03:32thing with the midtones here. We also might want to go back and add some green
03:37and blue to the highlights and the midtones.
03:40You might want to also play with Preserve Luminosity and see where that gets you.
03:43I want to add a little bit more blue and green to the midtones. I think that
03:49just about does it. However, I'm not really liking the fact that our cool warm
03:54lights have been affected by this adjustment layer. So what we can do, and this
03:57is really seemingly unconventional, what we're going to do is grab the lights
04:01layer and drag it on top of the adjustment layer.
04:04Now normally you would not be able to get away with that. But with 3D layers,
04:09the stacking order doesn't matter so much as the z position. So now where our
04:14lights glow in their full glory, but this is a little bit too bright. We need
04:18to add a little bit more contrast to this, so it matches the rest of the scene.
04:21So let's go ahead and apply a Levels effect to our light layer and then we
04:25increase the highlights and increase the shadows and darken the midtones.
04:30So now we have the same level of contrast, but we don't have the same bluish
04:34green tint applied to the lights that we have in the rest of our scene, which
04:38is exactly what we wanted. And again, we can further adjust this as we see fit.
04:41We can add hue/saturation here, and maybe take down the Master Saturation
04:45so they don't stick out quite as much. And we could even adjust the Master Hue
04:50so that we are a little bit more gold, rather than pure warm tones, since there
04:54isn't really anything that's warm in this image anymore, other than her skin tones right here.
04:59But for the most part, it's a little bit toned down and now our lights are
05:01little bit toned down. But they don't have the green and blue tint that
05:05everything else seems to. Now if we want to finish this project off what we
05:09could do is create a new composition. I don't know, whatever our export size is.
05:13Let's say NTSC DV. This has Square Pixels. So for now let's just keep this as
05:17Square Pixels for the Pixel Aspect Ratio, and click OK, and then drag the YYYK
05:23fixed composition into the new comp we just created as a layer, and then we can
05:29press the S key for the scale property and scale this down.
05:33This will also help crop out any ugly edges that we have going on here as well.
05:37Let me zoom in to 100%. Let's go crazy. And I'll resize the Composition panel
05:44window as soon as this frame has finished rendering here. Resize this so we
05:48could see this entire comp in all of it's glory, and let's go ahead and do a
05:52RAM preview of our final project.
05:55Okay, so I'm just going to stop rendering here. It's not going to render the
05:59full animation, the full composition, because we have so much stuff going on here.
06:02But let's just play back what we have so far. We have this nice movement.
06:05He hits the ball, and that just looks fantastic. We have our lights flickering
06:10up here in a very realistic way. I love the way that looks. Our color
06:14correction is spectacular.
06:15This is just a really great project. Thanks to Photoshop and After Effects together.
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13. Advanced 3D
Creating depth of field
00:01Depth of Field is a camera feature where objects are blurred based on their
00:05distance from the camera. This is so commonly seen in TV shows and movies that
00:10our eyes have just become adapted to it. We use Depth of Field to control where
00:15the viewers are looking. Let's say we have this subway scene here. Everything
00:19pretty much looks the same as far as blur is concerned. But what if, for
00:24example, we blur the background, the subway?
00:26Then that would put more attention on our subject, or perhaps maybe this
00:31person is just an extra in the movie. He has nothing to do with the plot
00:35whatsoever. Maybe there is some kind of clue to a murder or something like
00:38that written on the subway wall, in which case we might want to blur the guy
00:42and keep the subway sharp.
00:44Thankfully, Adobe has actually made this quite easy for you to play with Depth
00:49of Field here in After Effects. I have this camera here and I'm going to
00:52double-click it to open its settings. As we'll see momentarily, we could just
00:57as easily do this in the Timeline panel, but I think it's a little bit easier
01:00to do it this way, so I'm just going to go ahead and enable Depth of Field and click OK.
01:04Then I can open up my Camera Settings, open up Camera Options, and here we have
01:09Depth of Field. So this is where we could have gone to turn it on as well.
01:12The focus distance is perhaps the most important component of creating depth of field.
01:16 The Focus Distance is the distance from the camera that pixels will remain sharp.
01:21Now as we start playing around with this, we'll have a hard time seeing what is
01:26getting blurry and what doesn't get blurry. It doesn't help that as we scrub,
01:30we don't get a live update really of the blur being added. So here's a great trick.
01:35If we take the Active Camera view to one of the side views, let's say
01:39the Right view, and let me zoom out just a little bit, and here we have this camera.
01:43As we adjust Focus Distance, we could see this vertical line right here
01:48adjusting. Well, this vertical line is the Focus Distance. This is where
01:52objects will be sharp. So this right here, again, we're looking at a side
01:56representation of our 3D scene. This vertical plane right here is the
02:01character. Then here is the subway in the back, and then also the scenery in the background.
02:07So, again this is the side view. So if we wanted the character to be in focus,
02:12then we would adjust the Focus Distance to be right where the character is.
02:16Now let's change the view from Right, back to Active Camera, and zoom in little bit closer here.
02:21If we take the Depth of Field off and then on again, we're still not seeing
02:25much of a difference. So what we're going to do is increase the Blur Level to a
02:29ridiculous amount, just for the purposes of this example so that as you're
02:33looking at this movie, you can tell what's going on here. We also might want to
02:37increase the Aperture, which increases the blur.
02:40Now I realize that sounds a little bit wonky if you have a camera background.
02:45With video cameras and also with still cameras, the aperture typically is
02:49mainly used to control the amount of light coming in. So typically, if you open
02:53up the Aperture, you're letting more light in that changes the exposure.
02:57In this case, it's not like that. Apertures on cameras also have a kind of
03:02secondary feature, where they control the Depth of Field. Here in After Effects,
03:07that's the only thing Aperture affects is the Depth of Field. But now
03:11with Aperture and Blur Level really high, even watching this tutorial online
03:15you still should be able to see how it's blurred our background and that
03:19instantly draws our eyes to the character and not the subway background.
03:23If we take Depth of Field off, you could see a big difference in clarity
03:26between the before and the after. Of course, we could even make this more crazy
03:31and ridiculous if you wanted to, but at that point it starts to look kind of fake.
03:34So I'm just going to leave this set to about 300-ish and leave my
03:40Aperture to about 90 pixels or so.
03:42Now this kind of works like the human eye a little bit as well. I mean, if we
03:45had our focus on this guy, then I don't know if the background would necessarily be blurry,
03:49but it wouldn't be really in sharp focus. It'd be in our peripheral vision.
03:54Well, same thing, if we focused on the subway, then the character would be in
03:57our peripheral vision and not be super clear. So we could emulate that here as well.
04:01Let's go back to the Right camera view, increase the Focus Distance to go
04:06farther out, and so again this vertical line right here represents the subway.
04:11So if we keep the Focus Distance here, then when we go back, we'll see the
04:15subway in focus and the guy out of focus. This is exactly what's happening here.
04:20So, again, blurry guy and super sharp subway. Keep in mind that Focus
04:25Distance is an animatable parameter.
04:28So you could animate two different things being in focus, maybe just showing a
04:32regular scene and then there is somebody hidden off to the distance, and then
04:35you change the Focus Distance, you animate it.
04:37So then all of a sudden, the viewers can see that there is something hidden
04:41off in the shadows in the distance or what have you. That's how you create
04:44Depth of Field in After Effects.
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Creating stained glass shadows
00:00I created this 3D scene here with this photo of stained glass window, arranged
00:06in 3D space, the 3D line, casting a shadow onto this solid here.
00:10The problem is that the shadow is black and that's a dead giveaway that this
00:14is a digital hoax, because in real life the stained glass would create a
00:18beautiful colored shadow and not a blank shadow. Well, you could actually
00:22change that in After Effects.
00:23So what I'm going to do is I'm going to select the stained glass layer,
00:26I'm going to open up its properties, go to the Material Options, and again,
00:30this has to be a 3D layer, this will not work on a 2D layer, and then the property
00:35we're concerned with is Light Transmission.
00:37So as we increase Light Transmission, it's like the angels are singing. Because
00:45now we have a colored shadow instead of just a plain black shadow. As you can see,
00:50the results are spectacular with very little work.
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Changing an object's material type
00:00In this tutorial, we are going to look at the material options for 3D objects.
00:05These properties basically control the way that they respond when lights hit them.
00:10Now our example here is simple, we have a blue solid and a regular light.
00:15And the reason why we are using such a plain example is because this way it's
00:19easy to see what's going on. If you had like an actual photo or video clip
00:23here, it's little bit more difficult to tell what these properties are actually doing.
00:27So the way that we get to our material options is by opening up the layer, this
00:32little arrow here and then opening up Material Options. Let's skip down to
00:37Ambient. Ambient basically controls the level of ambient reflectivity of the
00:41layer. Since we don't have any ambient lights in our scene, this isn't really
00:45applicable right now.
00:46Diffuse is basically the overall color of the object and so we could see how
00:52this is responding to the light overall. Take this back to its default value,
00:57just right-click on Diffuse and select Reset. We also have the Specular
01:01property and I think these next three are perhaps the most important. These
01:05control the pin-point highlights from the light. So as I increase the Specular
01:10value, we are getting a stronger highlight in this dimension and as I take this
01:15down to zero, the Specular highlight becomes weak and more diffused.
01:19Now, I'm going to take this back up to 100%, as we talk about Shininess here.
01:25Shininess essentially controls the size of the Specular highlight. So Specular
01:30controls the intensity of the Specular highlight, Shininess controls the size
01:34of it. So, if we have a low Shininess value, the Specular highlight is actually
01:37very big, because it's not a very shiny object, it's a dull object.
01:41So if you are creating a virtual set that maybe had some carpet in it, then you
01:45probably want to take the Shininess down to zero. If you were creating a
01:49plastic cup or something that was glass on the other hand, then you probably
01:52want to increase the Shininess value. I'm going to take this down a little bit
01:55so we have a bigger highlight area and we could see what's going on when we talk about Metal.
02:00Metal basically is a weird property. The way that Metal works in real life is
02:05that metallic things when light hits them, they tend to be the color of the
02:10object and not the color of the light. So with Metal at its default value of
02:14100%, our Blue Solid is blue under a white light. But if we take down Metal,
02:20let's take it to zero. Then it becomes more white because that's the color of
02:24the light. So the less metal something is, the more color that it picks up from
02:29the light shining on it. The larger the Metal value, the more than the
02:33highlights are its own color.
02:36Now these properties taken together might seem like small things. But if you
02:40are in the process of creating something synthetic, whether it's a virtual
02:44world or a simple texture or background or whatever, it really pays to know how
02:49light interacts with different objects in the real world. So that way you can
02:53simulate that with these material options. I might also point out that you will
02:57see the same material options in a lot of the 3D effects such as Shatter in After Effects.
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Orienting objects to a camera
00:00In this movie, we are going to look at automatically orienting objects to face
00:04the camera. I have here this project that we looked at before and I'm going to
00:09create a New Camera and I'll just accept the default settings here.
00:13Now notice as we select the Unified Camera tool and as we move around this
00:18here, we could actually move to the side of these band members, essentially
00:23looking at their flat edges. But we'll get a different result if we turn on Auto-Orientation.
00:27To do that, I'm going to select all of these layers. First, I'm going to select
00:31the Marian layer then Shift-click the bottom layer. I'm going to right-click on them,
00:35select Transform, Auto-Orient, then change Auto-Orientation from Off to
00:41Orient Towards Camera. Now what will happen is when I move my camera around,
00:46these objects, these people in the band, will constantly be looking at the camera.
00:51Now I didn't change the orientation of the background. They are acting as if I
00:56have a regular camera and I'm panning around them. The band members however are
00:59constantly pointing at the camera no matter what I do. They are not moving in
01:04position, they are automatically changing their orientation or rotation I guess
01:09you could say. They are constantly pointing at the camera and that's why
01:12you are getting some of this intersection because the band members are pointing
01:16at the camera and the background is not and so again they intersect in either direction.
01:22So that's why sometimes these band members get cut off like that. Now I have
01:25seen this done with like planets, so if you had a camera that you are piloting
01:29through planets and you had Auto- Orientation on, the planets would look more
01:33volumetric and spherical as they rotated pass the camera or the camera passed it.
01:38Now in many circumstances, you wouldn't want to use Auto-Orientation but there
01:41are many times when you just want everything looking at the camera and always
01:46looking at the camera and that's how you do it.
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Creating a virtual set
00:01Now there are a lot of limitations with the 3D in After Effects because it's
00:04basically just flat layers that you can move in 3D space. But that being said
00:09there is a lot you can do with these flat layers.
00:11Let's say you want to make a virtual set, maybe a tunnel, a hallway, a room,
00:15something like that. You could select a layer and I'll just put all of these in
00:193D right now and let's say I hit the letter R for Rotation, and I'll take Y
00:23Rotation to 90 degrees. I then grab this on the Z-axis and move this to the
00:28left side of the screen. I can do the same thing with this Blue Solid. I'll put
00:32this on top here, so we could see it.
00:35Rotate this, same thing. Y-axis, 90 degrees and I move this over to the right side.
00:41Now we have created two walls in this virtual set here. I'll pick one of
00:46the yellow solids, hit R for Rotation, do the same thing for X Rotation here,
00:51take this to 90 degrees and we can make this kind of like a floor. And same
00:56thing with the other one here, R for rotation, on X Rotation take this to 90
01:00degrees, and take this up and make this kind of like a ceiling.
01:05Now of course, you would want to stretch these out a little bit. But you could
01:07see, we have created two walls and ceiling and a floor. If we created a camera
01:13here, just right-click, New Camera, click OK. Select the Camera, select the
01:19Unified Camera tool, we move this around and you could see that we have this
01:23kind of mini-tunnel here. Obviously, there is some refinement that we need to
01:27play around with in this case, but we could zoom in and out of our virtual room.
01:31And imagine the quality this would have. If we had textures that were the right
01:34size and dimensions and maybe you had a textures for a wall or a carpet or
01:39asphalt for the floor. And so we can create these cool tunnels with solids but
01:45it goes even deeper than that. I created this haunted house over here out of
01:50pure solid layers. I wanted to see how complicated I could create an object out
01:55of just flat solid layers. And if you look here in my Timeline panel, there is
02:00quite a lot of just plain flat solid layers, over 100 actually.
02:06If I select the camera here, select the Unified Camera tool, I move this around
02:10just a little bit. It takes a wilder render, because it is a kind of a beefy
02:14monster with all that's going on here. But you can see that it is actually a
02:19real 3D house, these windows sills, the stairs, it is all 3-dimensional and
02:25really just created with a bunch of flat solid layers arranged in 3D space.
02:31So the next time you are in a pinch, and maybe you are making an indie that you
02:35can just shoot a scene or something, don't be afraid to experiment with solids.
02:39I bet that solids can bail you out of more situations that you realize. And if
02:44you are using textured solid, in other words, like images that you import, all
02:48the better. Whether it's virtual sets or fake 3D objects like this,
02:53there really is no end to what you can create with 3-dimensional objects in
02:59After Effects with a little bit of creativity.
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Locating missing 3D layers
00:00Here in another quick tip here. When you're playing around with 3D, oftentimes,
00:03at least when I started playing around 3D in After Effects, I oftentimes found
00:07that I hit the wrong button or something and my 3D layer would be just be gone,
00:10it would just disappear.
00:11Then you have to go through all these different 3-D views and scroll through
00:15your composition, outside the boundaries trying to find these lost layers.
00:19There's actually a great feature to help you instantly recover missing footage.
00:23Just not for 3D layers, but for any layer that you might be missing.
00:27I got this 3D layer ring of rings. This is a live 3D layer from Photoshop. So,
00:32we don't actually adjust the 3D object, we adjust the null. So, because this 3D
00:37object is missing we know that the null is the one that's screwed up. That we got to fix.
00:41So, we got to right-click on the layer in question, the layer that's missing,
00:45go to Transform and select Center In View. Once you do that, wherever the layer
00:52is it'll magically snap to the center of the view.
00:54Now, it might not be at the right scale or the right closeness to the camera or
00:59what have you, it might be too far away, or in this case a little bit too close,
01:03but nonetheless, it will snap to view, so you will be able to see it and recognize it.
01:08I find that this feature is particularly helpful when dealing with 3D files,
01:12Vanishing Point files or what have you from Photoshop CS3.
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Working in 3D with precomps
00:00When you're working in 3D and when you're working with Precomps there are some
00:04issues you might need to be aware of that aren't super-intuitive.
00:07We have this YYYK Fixed composition. This is where the bulk of our stuff is
00:13going down. We got all their 3D layers here. So, if we were to use a camera,
00:17we would be able to obviously pilot through this in 3D and all that jazz.
00:22What I have done is I've created a Master Comp that's smaller and then place
00:26the YYYK Fixed composition as a layer, a precomposed layer, here in the Master Comp.
00:33So, then you might think because this YYYK Fixed comp is in 3D, that all
00:39we have to do to access that is to create a new camera and move it around.
00:45But as click the Unified Camera tool and move this around, nothing is
00:48happening. Now, as we know, cameras and lights only apply to 3D layers.
00:53Okay then, so we'll take this composition, click this icon and turn into a 3D layer.
00:58So, now as we move our Camera around everything should workout, right? Nope,
01:02it still sees it as a solitary flat layer. Well, what we've got to do is deselect
01:08the 3D layer and select this option, the Collapse Transformations button right
01:12underneath this star here, click that and then we'll be able to access the 3D
01:17attributes from the Precomp here in this composition.
01:21Now, here is another sweet trick. If we turn this into a 3D layer, so we have both.
01:26We have Collapse Transformations and we have the 3D layer, then we select
01:30this Precomp and hit the letter S for scale, we can adjust its Z scale.
01:35Now, typically this is a useless attribute, right? So, we have like a Solid for
01:40example and then we tried to scale it along the Z-axis. That would basically
01:45make it thicker. But that doesn't work in After Effects. You can't make a layer
01:48thicker. But if you have a Precomp that is made of a composition of 3D layers,
01:55then when you the Z scale, because there is actually some depth here,
02:00Marian is in front of the background.
02:03So, there is some 3D depth in this composition. As we increase the Scale,
02:06look at that. We actually are increasing the scale in the Z dimension of this
02:14composition. So, we are actually bringing the layers closer together and
02:18farther apart by adjusting the scale of the Precomp.
02:21So, this is also a great trick if you've gone to a lot of work setting up all of
02:26your layers in 3D space and then you want all of them to be closer together,
02:29or all of them to be universally farther apart, you can just precompose them and
02:34then scale the Z axis of the precomposed composition.
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Faking 3D volume
00:01After Effects users always seem to be wondering how to create volumetric 3D
00:05without using 3D file. So, I'm going to show you two methods in this movie.
00:09The first method is to simply duplicate a layer a bunch of times in Z space. So,
00:14what I've done here is I've created some text. I have three layers that are just
00:19the white fill, and then another three layers that are just the red stroke.
00:23What I've done is I've offset each of these 1 pixel in Z space. If I grab this
00:29Null that these are all parented to and I hit R to reveal the Rotation
00:34properties and I rotate them in the Y-axis, you will see that from this
00:38distance they look three-dimensional. It looks a little bit thick here, looks
00:43still pretty good from here.
00:44But if I take down the Z position, hit P for Position and adjust the Z
00:50position, take that down, make that more negative, then we can see the trick in action,
00:55we could see all the different layers here, because they are offset an
00:59entire pixel from one another.
01:01However, if we were to make this a little bit closer, so that these were maybe
01:07at 10th of a pixel apart, then it wouldn't be so easy to spot our foolery.
01:12But this is one trick that people often use for faking three-dimensional layers.
01:17Another trick is by interestingly enough using the Shatter effect. I'm going to
01:22apply the Shatter effect to the Royal Blue Solid. I've a shape here on top.
01:26Let's say we want this the storm cloud and lightening bolt to be three-dimensional.
01:31I'm going to take off the visibility of this for the time being. I'm going to
01:34apply Shatter to this Blue Solid. There we go. When we first apply Shatter,
01:39of course we get this weird wireframe representation here.
01:43So, what we want to do is change the view from Wireframe+Forces to Rendered,
01:49then open up the Shape area and change the pattern from Bricks to Custom, then
01:56under Custom Shatter Map change the dropdown from None to the storm cloud layer.
02:01If I hit the Home key, open up Camera Position and move around Y rotation,
02:06we'll see that it's actually created a three-dimensional cloud and lightening bolt.
02:10We could even get a thicker cloud and lightening bolt by increasing the
02:15extrusion depth parameter.
02:17Now, we have this big old massive cloud and lightening bolt. What a cool trick!
02:22But there is a problem here. If we play this back, then our lightening bolt and
02:28cloud will still shatter by the Shatter effect.
02:31So, what we need to do is the change the view at the top of Shatter from
02:35Rendered to Wireframe+Forces. So, we could see the force, which is this blue
02:39sphere here. What we need to do is open up Force 1, which controls the
02:43properties of this force, then decrease the value of depth or increase it,
02:50so that it's not touching the three- dimensional object here. As long as the force
02:57never comes in contact with a 3D object, it will never shatter.
03:01So, now we could take this back to Rendered safely, hit the Spacebar and there
03:06is no shattering taking place. One another note here. You could change the
03:11Camera System from Camera Position to Comp Camera. This will allow you to
03:16create a new camera in your composition and to be able to control this
03:21explosion with your comps camera. So I'll take this Comp Camera and I'll go ahead
03:26and right-click and create a new camera. Click OK.
03:29Now, as I pilot my camera around with the camera controls, I'm zooming in and
03:35out of in around our 3D shatter object which is great for compositing and
03:41situations like that where you need to be able to look behind an object with
03:45your comps camera. So, just a couple of tricks for creating or faking 3D volume.
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Changing the camera lens
00:01In this movie I'm going to show you how to play with the cameras in After
00:03Effects to create real Camera Lens Distortion.
00:06Now I have my camera here and the first thing I'm going to do is open up the
00:10Transform and for Position I'm actually going to back this camera up a little bit,
00:15so we have a little bit of leeway here.
00:19The scene that we are looking at here by the way is just a series of green solids,
00:22tossed about and positioned in 3-D space. Now you'll notice there is no option
00:27to change the lens size. If we double- click the Camera layer itself, we'll see
00:32that there is actually sizes for the lenses here at the top of drop-down.
00:36Now the reason why they have these here is because if you are doing
00:40compositing, then you can accurately match After Effects cameras with real
00:45world film cameras, or in theory that's the way it should work. I heard from a
00:49lot of different people that have more experience with production cameras than
00:52I do that these truly don't match out in After Effects.
00:55So I think of this kind of like a relative reference. But that doesn't mean
01:00that we can't use these and create some really cool camera distortion with them.
01:04Now, if I click on something like 35 millimeter here, this is pretty
01:07standard I click OK, and we are just seem to be zoomed in a little bit closer.
01:11However, if I go over to the Zoom, the Zoom aspect is actually different than
01:16the Position and Point of Interest.
01:18Zoom actually influences the size of the camera lens. If I double-click the
01:23Camera and we change this to 35 here, and we adjust anyone of these properties,
01:28either the Zoom or the Angle of View, we'll notice that the Preset changes.
01:33So technically even though we don't have access to the Camera Size, we can adjust
01:38zoom and that will influence the distortion from the camera.
01:42So if I back off here, then you can kind of see that we have a little bit in
01:47terms of change, but if I zoom in like crazy here, let's zoom in a lot, again,
01:53it seems like we are just basically using Z position to zoom in. However, if we
01:58increase the Zoom a lot, it's going to seem like we are just animating or
02:02adjusting the Z position, but we are not.
02:05Let's go over to Position here and let's back out, and really what we've done
02:10is to minimize the depth. So the pieces that were kind of far apart on the
02:15Z-axis don't seem like they are that far apart anymore. This is similar to what
02:19you'd find in a larger camera lens.
02:22Let's go to the opposite way though. Let's create like a wide angle fisheye
02:25type look, and take this zoom down a lot. Now again, at first it seems like we
02:31just kind of zoomed far out, but here is the magic folks, if we then go back in
02:36and increase the Position value until we are close, it won't be too long before
02:41we start seeing some crazy distortion, see that.
02:46Now as it starts getting closer to the camera, it starts to distort and kind of
02:50get this crazy fisheye look. We are going to exaggerate that even more.
02:53Take down Zoom even farther and then again, increase the Position, and look how
02:59those seems just be flying at you there. It's a very cool look.
03:03So if there is some kind of explosion, or something is flying through space,
03:07don't hesitate to play around with these camera angles and especially the Zoom
03:11parameter here in the Timeline panel, because you can create some really funky looks,
03:16as things appear to be stretching towards the camera. I've always loved
03:19this weird fisheye distortion.
03:21I realize it's a very stylized look, but nevertheless, if you are doing some
03:25kind of cool visual effects shot, this might come in handy.
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14. Mastering Masks and Shape Layers
Blending masks with mask modes
00:01In this chapter we are going to look at some of the fantastic, although not
00:04always immediately apparent, capabilities of masks.
00:08In this movie here on mask modes we are going to start out with this great footage
00:12of Paavo and as you can see, an amazing unicyclist, and we are going to take
00:16this footage and play with some masks applied to it.
00:19Now in After Effects CS4 Essential Training, we talked about these mask modes.
00:24If we open up a layer and open up its masks we can see that we have these
00:28different modes to play with.
00:29Now we talked about Add and we talked about Subtract. But there is four other
00:34modes here, Intersect, Lighten, Darken, and Difference. And as you can see,
00:40as I scroll through those, they don't really make too much of a difference.
00:44Well, here is the deal, folks. These last four mask modes are meant to be used
00:49in conjunction with other modes. So let's say I put this one into Add mode.
00:53This next mask, I'm going to put into Difference mode. As you can see, it cut
00:58a hole in the area where these two masks overlap.
01:02Well, now what we could do is go into this Mask 1 area and take down the Mask
01:06Opacity and so we start to change the Opacity of that area that was removed by
01:13Difference. Let's take Mask 2 and put that into Difference mode and then maybe
01:17let's lower the Mask Opacity of that one. Just have it be very, very low.
01:24So it's making a very subtle difference here. Now we could go on and play with
01:28these and continue adjusting Mask Opacity as we see fit and in the process
01:33creating these really interesting patterns by these overlapping masks.
01:38Let me give you one example of what you can do with this. In the Stair Jump
01:42DONE Composition, I did a little color correction here and I played around
01:46with the mask blend modes and their opacities, and I have also animated the
01:51mask modes, just their position as they move around.
01:53So now as we see the final result, you could see how beautiful results are,
01:57when these masks in different mask modes with different mask opacities overlap
02:01each other. It's a very cool effect.
02:04You see this type of look a lot when you are doing like extreme sports type stuff,
02:08X games, stuff on ESPN and that type of thing. Spectacular result but
02:13very easy to achieve with mask modes and playing around a little bit with mask opacity.
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Creating Bezier paths with the Pen tool
00:00In the next couple of movies, we're going to take a look at the elusive Pen tool.
00:04We use the Pen tool to create custom shapes. In this chapter, we'll be
00:08talking about creating masks and lot of those masks will just be the simple
00:11shapes here, stars and ellipses and rectangles and what not.
00:15But if you really want to get in and create a custom shape, you'll need to be
00:20able to use the Pen tool to create your own Bezier path. So that's what we're
00:22going to do here. We're going to use a very simple Magenta solid, just to make
00:28sure that we can see what we're doing, quickly, clearly and easily.
00:31So I'm going to select the Pen tool here, and with the layer selected, I'm just
00:36going to click and let go, click and let go, click and let go, click and let go.
00:42You could see as I'm just clicking here, not clicking-and-dragging,
00:44we're just clicking with the mouse and letting it go, I'm creating simple shapes;
00:48these are simple lines connected by corner points.
00:52It's great for creating quick soppy masks, or for creating accurate masks on
00:56things like stairs or other hard-edged surfaces. Once you're all done with the
01:00mask, you can go back to the original point and you'll get this little O icon
01:04next to your Pen tool, indicating that you're going to complete the circuit,
01:07you're going to close the mask.
01:09Once you do that, you then have a complete mask, and then you can use the mask
01:13modes to add or subtract. Now, this is the most simple and basic way to use the
01:20Pen tool. I'm going to select that mask and hit Delete. You might need to hit
01:23Delete a couple times to get rid of that, but there's another way that we can use the Pen tool.
01:28If I click once to set a point, I create just a regular corner point as
01:31mentioned before, but I'm going to come over here. I'm going to click and hold
01:34my mouse down and drag. However, if I come over here and for the next point,
01:40click-and-drag down, that clicking-and- dragging motion creates a curved path.
01:46This is where the Pen tool starts to get a little bit more complicated. We drew
01:51just one simple line, just two points, and yet we have all kinds of stuff
01:55happening all over the screen. Well, what this line is basically control
02:00handles for this curve.
02:03Now if you want to create just simple straight lines with the Pen tool, then
02:08just click and let go as we covered before. But again, if you want to really
02:13master this tool, you need to be able to learn these curves and you need to be
02:17able to understand these direction handles. So, that's the next step in this process,
02:21is really mastering those curves and handles.
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Adjusting handles and corner points
00:00In this movie, we're going to continue on where we left off in the last
00:03segment and we're going to complete our discussion of the Pen tool by talking
00:06about handles and corner points. I actually have the same mask here.
00:10If you select the solid layer or the mask itself in the Timeline, you'll see it here
00:14in the Composition panel.
00:16Right now, the mask is currently selected, so we're seeing it. But we're not
00:20seeing those crazy handles we saw in the last movie, because this point is not
00:23selected. So if we click on that point, then we'll see these handles. Now what
00:27we might need do is click away from it to deselect it and then click back on it
00:31to reselect it, so only it is selected.
00:34By the way, if you want to continue onward with this path, you could simply
00:38select this anchor point, this corner point here, and then select the Pen tool
00:42and click-and-drag and it continues the path. Now I'll go back and select the
00:46Regular Selection tool up here in the toolbar at the top of the interface and
00:50click on one of these points to select it.
00:52Now, what happens is when you have a curved point or when you have one point
00:57that has at least one curved side coming out of a side of that point, then
01:01you will get a direction handle that will control that curve.
01:05So if I pull this curve out, you could see that we're increasing the tension on
01:09that curve. If I move it left or right, we're changing the direction on both
01:14sides of the curve. So keep in mind as you're playing around with the curve
01:19that both the direction and the size of those handles makes it difference,
01:25as far as what those Curves look like.
01:28Now in this case we have a curve coming out of both sides of the anchor point,
01:32so we have two handles here. So this is considered a smooth anchor point.
01:36I'm going to take, under the Pen tool, you'll find the Convert Vertex tool.
01:41So I'm going to select that and come over here to this curve point here.
01:44Now if you click on this with the Convert Vertex tool, what it's going to do is
01:47it's going to convert it from a smooth point where there is curves coming on
01:50each side to a corner point, where there is a corner and there are no curves
01:55coming out of either side.
01:57Again, as you remember from the last movie, when you don't have any curves,
02:00you don't have any handles to play with. Now let's say we started with a corner point.
02:04What I could do is come over here with the Convert Anchor Point tool and
02:07click-and-drag on it to drag out handles.
02:11So that's what happens if you click on a smooth point or a corner point. If you
02:15click on one of the handles, you'll notice that it will break it so much that
02:21you can't adjust these curves independently. This is how you can create things like hearts.
02:27Let me show you what I'm talking about here. I'm going to select this mask and
02:30then delete it, delete it a couple times there. I'm going to go back and select
02:34the Pen tool and I'll click on the bottom up here, click on the top over here,
02:40come down for that point, come up for that point, and then come back down for
02:45the original point.
02:46So now let's tweak this a little bit and select the Selection tool and come
02:50down here and this has actually become a corner point. But what you may want
02:55to do is go back to the Convert Vertex tool and click-and-drag on it. You get
02:59two different handles here, and then with the Convert Vertex tool break those
03:03handles, so you can control them independently. So we have more of a curve
03:08coming out of the inside here.
03:10Now a general rule for these handles, because when I first started playing around
03:14with this when I was learning Illustrator, I was kind of like well,
03:16how do you know where those lines are supposed to be? The general rule of thumb is that
03:21they are supposed to be about a third of the way along the path.
03:26So, select the Selection tool. That would probably be about good right there.
03:30Of course, rules are made to be broken, and you might need to get a custom
03:34shape if you're rotoscoping something, you might need to create a custom shape
03:38with the Pen tool that you need to tweak these handles in such a way that that
03:42rule is completely broken.
03:43But that's just a general rule of thumb. So if I have a small handle on this side,
03:48and a really big handle on this side, I'll often have a curve that is not
03:53really smooth and flowing and not kind of balanced looking. So, again that's
03:57sometimes that's what you want, but just be careful about that.
04:00Now in this case, as we play with out heart here, what we can do is click on
04:03this corner point here and let's say we decide we want more a curvature and
04:07these angles down at the bottom here. I can select the Convert Vertex tool,
04:11click-and-drag out so I get these curve handles. But I don't want a round
04:14bottom here. I just want some curvature.
04:17So I can click on the Convert Vertex tool again and break these handles,
04:21so we can create some kind of smooth, more artistic, little hearts here, and again
04:26we can play with these little handles until we get this nice, smooth result.
04:31Now, obviously, there is a lot more to mask making than just creating pretty
04:35little hearts. Again, we often times create masks to isolate objects or to
04:39remove backgrounds, rotoscope, visual effects. I mean, really the list is
04:44endless. Sometimes, for motion graphics, we really do want simple shapes like this.
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Creating shape layers from custom shapes
00:00So now that we know how to use a Pen tool, it definitely it takes a while to
00:03master, but we know the basics, so we can access this kind of cool unique trick.
00:08We can use the Pen tool to create custom shape layers. Now if we have
00:14footage selected, when we click on something with the Pen tool, then we're
00:18going to create a mask, right? But I'm going to undo that a couple times.
00:22If we have nothing selected when we use the Pen tool, we're actually going to
00:27create a brand-new shape layer and then we have access to all the features of
00:34the shape layer. Let me show you what I'm talking about here. I'm going to
00:36actually delete that shape layer and we're going to practice with this.
00:40I'm going to zoom in a little bit more than 100%. There is some great footage from
00:44GreenLayers.com, by the way. We looked at it a little bit earlier.
00:47I'm just going to make a rough outline here, just kind of click-and-drag.
00:50I've got a straight line so I'm going to click, and then click, click-and-drag a
00:55little bit smooth over corner, I can drag a little bit, and so on and so forth
01:00until we cover this military guy with a mask. I'll make a little curve there
01:08for his shoulder. We're just trying to get like a rough idea of this so far.
01:13This is actually a production task. We knew what we're doing. It probably takes
01:17our time a little bit more.
01:19Another tip is you probably want to use as few points as possible when you are
01:24creating your Bezier paths. A couple of reasons for that. Number one, it's
01:28going to be easier to edit later on, and number two, it's going to render a
01:33little bit faster, because there is less data to process there.
01:36Now I shouldn't have probably had a fill on my shape layer, because that makes
01:42it kind of rough to see what's going on, by having that fill there, but we are
01:46just going to keep going. Here we go, almost done, and I realize that I totally
01:52botched a lot of places here, but that's okay.
01:55We can go back in and we can select our Selection tool, grab one of these
01:59points and just move it on around. Really great benefit to these shape layers,
02:03I tell you, it's just fantastic to be able to go back and have the control over
02:08this, like it was just a simple mask, but then to come down here and have all
02:13of the benefits of shape layers.
02:15So we can go in and add different things like a Twist or something like that to this.
02:19Let me zoom out a little bit so we could see what's going on here.
02:23We open up Twist and now this military guy, we can move him around with Twist,
02:28distort him with Twist. So he is dancing and saluting, saluting and dancing.
02:32Another thing I want to show you that you could do here with this, if I have
02:36this same shape layer selected, let's go ahead and select the path. Then I go
02:41back here with the Pen tool again, I'm just going to click randomly in here,
02:45this little spot where there is a whole, where he is saluting. I can't see it,
02:50so I'm just going to make an approximate mask that we can adjust later. But if
02:54you did it correctly, the path should be blue or should be the same color as
02:57your shape color, and then you could see we have Shape 1 and Shape 2 here.
03:01Well, what I can do is add a Merge Paths operator, down at the bottom, open up
03:08Merge Paths and change the mode, just like a mask modes to subtract. Now that
03:12actually got rid of our data, but if we reverse the order of our masks, so I'm
03:16going to drag Shape 2 below Shape 1, then we could see the desired result here.
03:20We have a little whole cut in our mask, and again, we could go in with the
03:24Selection tool, if we zoom in closely here.
03:27Let me actually open up Shape 2 and select the path itself so I could see these
03:34points. Then we can move them around until we have a more approximate
03:39silhouette of this military guy. If your path gets deselected again, you can go
03:43over here to Timeline panel and click on path for that shape, and then you
03:47could get access to the anchor points and Bezier handles the same way you would
03:50with the Bezier path when we were looking at masks in the last couple of movies.
03:55So now we have a fairly complex shape that we created from scratch, and we've
03:59also cut a hole out of that, which is pretty cool, and we have all the power of
04:03shape layers here with these path operators.
04:06Now I thought shape layers are really awesome when we just had to stick to
04:10these basic shapes or so I thought, but in reality, we can make our own custom
04:15shape layers out of whatever we want. It's really a phenomenal feature of After Effects.
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Using Auto-trace to create masks
00:00Another great way to create masks is just to have After Effects do it for you.
00:05There's a great feature called Auto- trace that will have After Effects go in
00:08and look at the contours of a layer and automatically make a mask for you.
00:13So I have here again this greenlayers. com footage and as it plays, you could
00:17see this military guy again saluting. And what we can do is select this layer,
00:22then go over to the Layer menu at the top and go down to the bottom of the
00:25Layer menu, and if you are not dizzy yet go ahead and select Auto-trace and
00:29what we can do is have After Effects automatically trace the contours of this layer.
00:35Now we can have it do it for the Current Frame and it will create one mask that
00:40will remain for the entire duration of the composition. Now be careful with this;
00:44if this is accidentally selected, you don't want to be selected.
00:47What this will do is, first of all, take a long time to auto-trace and secondly,
00:51it will create a new mask for every single frame.
00:55Now especially applied when we wouldn't want to do this, if you're doing this
00:58Auto-trace feature on a still image. But in our case, here we have a movie clip
01:03and we want every single frame to be traced so yeah, we do want the Work Area.
01:07Now you can change the Channel, and most of the times, I just use the Alpha
01:11channel so it will create a mask around the transparency of the object.
01:15But keep in mind, you could also create a mask around just a Red channel or a
01:19Green channel, Blue channel or the Luminance, and basically, it will use the
01:23luminance of those channels to determine where the edge is. And you can control
01:27the Threshold parameter. Use the Threshold parameter to determine how much
01:31something is traced.
01:33Now there's a few other important parameters here. Number one, there's Invert;
01:36maybe you want to create a whole and make a mask around the background, you
01:40could select Invert.
01:41If you find that your mask is getting traced a little bit too precisely, then
01:46you can blur, blur the pixels before auto -tracing. You basically won't see
01:51that blur; that happens behind the scene. So it's basically blurring it to
01:55soften edges so you get a more smooth mask.
01:59This is great if you might have some noise in your image and maybe the noise
02:03pixels on the edge are causing the mask to be traced, like the Auto-trace is
02:08tracing the noise, which you wouldn't want. So you can increase that blur or
02:12maybe if you have some jagged edges, that is just the nature of your footage,
02:16you could also blur it.
02:18The Minimum Area refers to the smallest feature that will be traced, and the
02:22Corner Roundness refers to the roundness of your mask. As you bump up this
02:27value more, then you are going to have smoother Curves.
02:30Don't forget about Preview, of course, we could see what the final result will
02:33be, so you could make changes to these settings here while you are looking at
02:36the final result here in the Composition panel. Also, beware of this setting,
02:40Apply to new layer. If you have this deselected then this will apply all of the
02:45mask to this layer. If you select Apply to new layer, it will create a brand
02:48new solid layer and create the mask there if you want to keep things little bit more orderly.
02:53For now I'm going to go ahead and click OK to use these settings. So now if we
02:56have take off the visibility of the bottom layer and just look at the solid
03:00that has been created for us, play this back and look at that. Every single one
03:05of these frames is basically a series of masks automatically traced for us by
03:11After Effects. Every single frame. Look at that.
03:14Now one of the best advantages here for those who've used Adobe Flash is you
03:17could export this as a SWF file and the file size will be ridiculously small.
03:24So this is a great kind of work around to get footage out of After Effects and
03:29into Flash with the file size as being really small. Solid layers with vector
03:34masks will do that.
03:36If you want more details on that, I create a one-hour long lecture for
03:40lynda.com about Flash and After Effects integration. I talked a lot about that
03:44extensively. Now a few other things that you could do is there are a lot of
03:48effects that use masks to do their magic.
03:51So say, for example, the Scribble effect. So in this case, I added the Scribble
03:55effect and that didn't really change too much and just change the color a
03:58little bit. But the final result has this drawn-on figure that looks like we
04:03hand-scribbled it. Very cool effect. That is the Scribble effect again.
04:07We also have the Stroke effect, and in this case, I put a little bit more to it
04:11but not too much more. I added the Stroke effect, which basically strokes the mask.
04:16Then I added the CC Radial Fast Blur and then the Glow effect and then
04:21once it's all done, we have this weird alien military guy. There's like this
04:25cool spooky glow behind him as he is saluting.
04:30So whether a still image or whether a movie file, being able to have After
04:35Effect automatically trace every single frame can give you some very interesting results.
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Working with RotoBezier paths
00:00Now there is another type of mask out there called RotoBezier. If you were to
00:04get select the Pen tool here and check RotoBezier, you'll create a different
00:11type of shape, not quite Bezier. This is based on something called B-splines
00:16and if you are familiar with high-end compositing programs or 3-D programs, then you've
00:21probably worked with these before.
00:23Now, I'm going to click and click, here we go, and so I click and click and
00:28there is a straight line, but watch when I click the next line. I'm just going
00:30to click it and let go and still it made a curve. I'm going to click and let
00:35go, click and let go, click and let go, click and let go and it's still making
00:39all kinds of curves.
00:42If we select these points with the Selection tool, we won't see the typical
00:46handles. We could still move these around and make changes but we are not
00:51seeing any direction handles or control.
00:54So, for those of you that want to make kind of simple, round organic shapes in
00:58your brand new Bezier curves, you can try these RotoBezier curves but there is
01:02a lot more to them than meets the eye, for those of you that want to take this
01:06a step further. I've created this simple text. It looks like it says Roto in an
01:10outline, but what I'm going to do is clicked on the Selection tool and go over
01:14these control points.
01:16And I'm going to hold the Command+ Option keys on the MAC or the Ctrl+Alt keys
01:21on the PC and as I do that, you will see me get this icon. That allows me to
01:26adjust the tension of the individual control points, so I could basically drag
01:31right and left and make them corner points or more smooth points.
01:36You will also notice in the Info panel on the right hand side of my screen
01:39here, as I'm doing that it's telling me the tension of these points. A corner
01:43point is considered to have 100% tension, and a smooth point can be considered
01:48to have 0% tension.
01:49So, basically I can go in here and control these in a little bit easier of a
01:54way than you could with Bezier handles, just a little bit more smooth and
01:59organic. Now, I actually like having Bezier Path. I like seeing what I'm doing,
02:06but I can't really see the value in wanting to have this kind of control, where
02:11you just click-and-drag and you make things smoother or more tense just by
02:15clicking-and-dragging.
02:15And again, as I mentioned, I prefer Bezier handles, but a lot of people prefer
02:20this RotoBezier method because it apparently animates better. Now I might be
02:25being a grumpy old man about this, but I like my Bezier curves, it took me a
02:29long time to understand how they work but now that I get how they work, then
02:32they just make sense to me and I find that I use them easily, just to get in
02:36there and get the job done.
02:37But if you find that Bezier Paths aren't doing it for you, maybe you are just
02:41learning them and they are not very intuitive for or maybe you are experienced
02:44with them but you don't like the way that they animate or the control that you
02:48have over them, then you might want to give RotoBezier Path a try.
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"Tweening" mask shapes
00:01In this movie, we are going to start looking at advanced mask animation. Now,
00:04previously in this chapter, we've looked at some basic mask animation,
00:07basically moving masks around back and forth. But I want to show you something
00:11more advanced in this movie. I'm going to open up this Orange Solid, this is
00:15where our fish is and this is just an Orange Solid with a fish shaped mask on it.
00:20And I'm going to open up Masks. Open up Mask 1 and I could click this
00:24stopwatch for Mask Path. And then I can double-click the path if I wanted to
00:29and I could move it around, if I so chose, make the fish appear to swim or what have you.
00:34But even cooler, if I move out in time, I can click anyone of these individual
00:39points and actually move the points. I'll move out in time more and
00:45maybe make him say a little bit more actually. Let's go back here and make it a
00:50little bit smaller or something. Maybe like he is like flapping his fin
00:54or whatever, but if I go back in time, you can see that it's actually animating those values.
01:00So in this sense we can create a tween, tween being an old animation term for
01:05basically interpolating, going between two shapes. In Flash, this is also
01:10referred to as shape tweening. But there is another cool trick I want to show you.
01:14I'm going to move out in time a little bit farther here and I'm going to
01:18go over to Photoshop and I'm going to select this little bird shape that I made,
01:23it's one of the shapes that comes with Photoshop, if you'd like to make it,
01:26and I'm going to select Edit > Copy.
01:29Now, I'm going to go back to After Effects. Now, if I select the Orange Solid
01:34layer and I hit Command+V on the Mac or Ctrl+V on the PC to paste this, it will
01:39just create a new mask. So now we have Mask 2 with this bird, but I'm going to
01:44undo that, Command+Z or Ctrl+Z. I'm actually going to select Mask Path, so not
01:50the layer itself, the actual path.
01:53If I select the Mask Path and then paste it again, you will see that the fish
01:57disappeared. The reason why it disappeared is because the fish will now morph
02:04into the bird. Now you could imagine the cool possibilities here just being
02:09able to paste shapes. They don't have to be from Photoshop, they could be from
02:12Illustrator or anywhere else where you've got Vector Paths.
02:15So, this is just a great trick with infinite potential, but obviously we have
02:20some unpleasantness in the interpolation here. There is a feature in
02:24After Effects called Smart Mask Interpolation, and that's going to help us fix this problem.
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Advanced mask shape animation
00:00So, now we are continuing on with the dilemma that we created in the last movie
00:04as we tried to morph this fish into this bird shape. So here is how we are
00:09going to fix this. Go to the Window menu and open up Mask Interpolation,
00:13formerly called Smart Mask Interpolation, although I still think it's very smart.
00:17And what we are going to do is use this panel to help us have a more advanced
00:23interpolation between the two shapes. Now, one of our big problems is if we go
00:28over here to where there is the fishy, and we select the Mask Path, if we look
00:32in the Info panel, we'll see that there is 21 Vertices. Each one of these
00:36little anchor points here is a vertex or in plural that's referred to as vertices.
00:41And as we go to the bird and then select Mask Path again, you could see we have
00:4563 Vertices, so exactly three times as many vertices with the bird as with the fish.
00:51So, how does it get from point A to point B, when there is a different
00:56number of vertices? Now this Mask Interpolation panel is actually very complex.
01:00There is a lot of options here, although I should mention, it's very helpful,
01:03if you just hang your cursor over one of the parameters, you'll get a little
01:06tool-tip that will tell you, what that particular parameter does.
01:09In the case of Use Linear Vertex Path for example, it makes sure that the path
01:14that each vertices travels, as it's going from its source to its destination,
01:18will be a straight line.
01:20If you uncheck this, it gives the permission for this shape to rotate in Curve.
01:26In our case, it actually made the fish rotate as it became the bird and it
01:31looks really tacky, not good at all. So we are going to leave this checked, but
01:34we also have the Bending Resistance and the Quality. What I'm really concerned
01:38with is this bottom area down here where it says Matching Method.
01:42These two options are pretty helpful. Use 1:1 Vertex Matches. This basically
01:46means that the first vertex created with the first shape, will go and translate
01:51automatically to the first vertex created for the second shape. The second
01:55vertex will match to the second vertex and the third to the third, and the
01:58fourth to the fourth and so on.
01:59Since we have three times as many vertices for the bird as the fish, that's not
02:02going to help us, so I'm going to leave this unchecked. And you can also just
02:05have the first vertices match. But in our case these are both pasted shapes and
02:09I'm not even sure where the first vertex is on any of these.
02:13And we could right-click on one of these vertices and go up to a Mask and Shape
02:17Path and select Set First Vertex for both of these. But that's still not going
02:20to give us the results that we want.
02:21So what I'm going to do is I'm going to change the Matching Method to Polyline.
02:26And I'm just going to click on the word, Mask Path, to select all the keyframes
02:30and then I'm going to click Apply and then I'm going to wait patiently.
02:35Actually not that patiently, because it's already done. As I go back in time,
02:39we'll see now a very much improved interpolation between Mr. Fish and Mr. Bird.
02:47So as I drop this down, let's deselect this and do the RAM Preview. The fish
02:52swims a little bit then becomes the bird. And while we could go back and tweak
02:58some of our settings, pretty impressive how this fish becomes this bird.
03:04Now if you want to, you can just hit Command+Z or Ctrl+Z on the PC to undo
03:09that and it doesn't undo each keyframe at a time. It does the whole Smart
03:14Mask operation. So, now we can go and make this a little bit smoother, let's
03:17say we take Bending Resistance down to like 10% or something and then we can
03:22comeback down here with all those keyframes selected and we can hit Apply one
03:27more time and now our results will probably be a little bit smoother.
03:30Oh! Yeah, I'm liking that. And there we have it. A much better result than we
03:37had without using the Mask Interpolation panel.
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Converting motion paths to masks
00:00Now we are going to look at converting a motion path into a mask. So I have
00:05here this arrow that's kind of flying around there and what's cool about
00:10knowing Bezier paths is that it comes in handy all over the place.
00:15Motion paths are one example, so we have this motion path and again these
00:18little tiny dots are also the individual frames. And we can go up here with our
00:23Pen tool and add keyframes to this path and then go back and get the Selection tool
00:28and just move these around, stretch these out, oops, make that path active
00:33again, click on Position.
00:34We can move these handles around and really create a very complex wacky motion path.
00:41Tweak it. Play with it as we so choose. And then if we want to convert it
00:48to a mask, all we have to do is click on Position to select all of the
00:52keyframes and then hit Command+C or Ctrl+C to Copy. Then I'm going to make a
00:58new layer, just make a new solid layer and this is kind of weird, but what I'm
01:02going to do is I need to make an empty mask.
01:05So I'm going to go to Layer > Mask and Shape Path or this can be just Mask, and
01:11create a new mask. Now it creates a mask that is the size of the entire layer and
01:17I'm going to open up this layer. Open up Masks, open up Mask 1 and click on
01:24Mask Path. Then I'll paste by hitting Command+V or Ctrl+V on the PC, and our
01:32mask is basically the result of our motion path.
01:36Now that's a cool trick but when would you ever want to use that? Now let me
01:39show you. I'm going to drag this layer beneath the shape layer with the arrow
01:44on it and I'm going to apply the Stroke effect to this solid layer, actually
01:50not Brush Strokes, there we go. Just regular Stroke, there we go. And so we
01:54apply this to Mask 1, maybe I want to make the Brush Size a little bit bigger.
01:59Let's come down here to Paint Style, we don't want to paint on the original
02:01image, because we don't the solid in the picture. We are going to take this to On Transparent.
02:06Let's also adjust the Spacing a little bit, increase that value because that
02:09will give us like these cool little dots which are little bit finer than just
02:13solid lines. And then what we can do is animate the End property to follow this
02:19arrow. So as the arrow starts out, let's go back to the first frame here and
02:24we'll click on the stopwatch for End, make it 0. And then once the arrow is
02:29done, we'll click on or change the value to 100%. And as we preview this, we
02:35have this arrow that travels and this little trail that goes behind it.
02:43Take a little cheap Indiana Jones type effect as the plane is moving across the map.
02:47But remember that because we have converted the motion path to a mask, we
02:53can now do to it anything we would normally do to a mask. So just like so many
02:58other tricks in this training series, there is just a lot of room for
03:01creatively playing here.
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Creating a mask instantly
00:01In this quick tip, I'm going to show you how to create a mask instantly and
00:04also a little trick for using that to create a vignette very quickly.
00:09So, I have here our You Yell You Kick Project, loving that. And I'm going to
00:14right-click and make a new black solid. Click OK. Now you know that if we click
00:22one of these Shape tools and we have a layer selected and we click-and-drag
00:27with our shape, we'll actually make a mask on that layer.
00:30However, if I simply double-click one of the shapes here in the Tools panel,
00:35it will make a mask of that shape that completely fills the composition. Now in
00:40the case of an ellipse here, this is really to our advantage because then what
00:44we could do is change the mask mode from Add to Subtract.
00:49And then that cuts a hole and we have this cool little oval cutout. We could
00:53then select the layer. Type the letter F. That will get us straight to Mask
00:58Feather and we could increase Mask Feather creating, if we deselect this, an
01:05instant vignette. So before, after.
01:09So just a quick tip to instantly add a mask to a layer.
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15. Playing with Time
Stretching time
00:00In this chapter, we are going to look at playing around with times, slowing
00:04down and speeding up footage and some other time tricks as well.
00:08First, let's just look at the basics, slowing down and speeding up footage.
00:12What I'm going to do is come down here at the Timeline panel, right-click and
00:16select Columns > Stretch. And then now, we can just click and drag on this
00:22stretch value to speed up or slow down our footage. This great footage, by the way,
00:26comes to us from courtesy of greenlayers.com. I'm going to take this
00:30footage down to 50%, just click on that value if you don't want to scrub and
00:36just type in the value. So I'm going to take the Stretch Factor here to 50%.
00:41Now think of the stretch value as kind of like the duration value. So if the
00:45stretch value is taken to 50%. That means the clip's going to be half as long
00:49and yet, still the entire clip is going to play. So when we play this clip back,
00:53it will be at twice the speed. Likewise, if we were to increase this to,
00:59let's say 200%, then we are going to be playing the clip twice the slow because
01:05the clip takes 200% longer or in other words, 200% as long as it originally did.
01:10Now here is the problem, folks, and you could see this even as the frames are
01:13rendered. We know that these little green marks indicate frames that are
01:16rendered into RAM. Then these blank gray spots are places where the frames
01:21don't need to be rendered into RAM because they are just copies. They are just
01:25duplicates of the rendered frames.
01:27So we have one frame that's rendered and then a copy and then a real frame,
01:31then a copy and a real frame and then a copy, so on and so forth. So half of
01:37these frames are just duplicates. Well, that's not an intelligent way to copy
01:41frames to stretch them out. So if you are looking for a very quick, very simple way
01:46to slow down or speed up footage, then check out this Stretch column in the Timeline panel.
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Making smooth slow-motion shots
00:01So continuing our discussion here, we are going to talk about making better slow motion shots.
00:05Now, probably the ideal way to do this is if you have access to your footage,
00:10you are in the production team, basically you want to over-crank, you want to
00:13shoot more frames than you need and that way when you create slow motion shots,
00:17you have real slow motion.
00:20But sometimes, as post-production artists, we are not involved in the
00:24production process. So we don't have any say in how it was shot; we have to fake it.
00:28One of the best ways in After Effects to do that is with the Time Warp effect.
00:32So I'm going to apply the Time Warp effect to this footage here, from
00:35greenlayers.com, and essentially we have this speed control.
00:41Now it's a little confusing because the speed control works the opposite as the
00:45stretch control we saw in the last movie. So with stretching we saw before,
00:49if you take this down to 50%, then the clip goes twice as fast. Here in the Time
00:54Warp effect, if we have a speed value of 50, then the clip is going to go half as slow.
01:00I actually think the speed value here is little bit more intuitive. That make
01:04sense to me that if the speed is 50%, then it's going to play half the speed.
01:08If you want to speed this clip up, you'd take it to something over 100.
01:12But here is the magic of the Time Warp effect.
01:15Now to really understand what's going on here, let me actually go out to a
01:18couple seconds, maybe three or four seconds, so we have our subject here, our actor.
01:23And if we take the Method from Pixel Motion to Whole Frames, we see what
01:29we saw in the last movie with stretch.
01:31So in other words, the frames are duplicated. So we have a real frame and then
01:35a copy and then a real frame and then a copy, real frame, copy, so on and so forth.
01:40Now the next method takes a little longer to render but it's a little bit
01:43smoother. It's called Frame Mix and what that does is, and you can see this here,
01:48it blends the opacity of the two frames together. So every frame is
01:53essentially a real frame but what it's doing is it's taking the two frames that
01:57have been stretched apart and fading the opacity between them, so there is a
02:01little bit better of a blend.
02:03But as you can see here, this doesn't quite work out all that gray in every
02:07circumstance. So it kind of looks like he has like a weird stutter effect as we
02:11kind of scrub through this here. So the best method to slow footage down is to
02:16change this method, or actually just leave it at Pixel Motion, which is the default.
02:21