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In the last movie, you saw me shoot a video in Program mode. If you are just shooting home videos, or casual videos, or any type of amateur video, that's fine to use Program mode, or Scene Intelligent Auto mode. But if you want to be serious about video -- and with this camera, you can be very serious about video -- you're going to want to give some more thought to shutter speed. So I am going to you switch over to Shutter priority mode. Now, ideally, when you're shooting video, you want to use a shutter speed that is double your frame rate; that's going to give you the best quality of motion in your video.
Earlier you saw me configure the camera to shoot at 30 frames per second, so I've dialed in a 60th of a second for my shutter speed. This is just like working with Shutter priority when shooting stills. With my shutter speed selected, when I meter, the camera is automatically going to choose an aperture, and it's chosen f/10 here, and ISO is set to Auto, so it's chosen ISO of 800. Thanks to Mark III's great high ISO capability, I don't really have to worry about noise at ISO 800.
If I want to brighten or darken my scene, I can simply do that with exposure compensation. And as I do that, you can see that it's getting my exposure compensation changes through ISO changes. In a pinch, it might fall back to changing aperture, but because I'm in Shutter priority mode, it's not going to change shutter speed. Now, if I wanted, I could even go here into Aperture priority, and take control of aperture. However, if I do that, I'm giving up my control of shutter speed. For example, if I decided I wanted really shallow depth of field, I could open up my lens all the way, but look what's happened to my shutter speed.
And again, if I'm serious about video, I am going to be wanting to ride my shutter speed correctly. So I would not recommend using Aperture priority to take control of depth of field. Instead, move on over to Manual if you really need depth of field control. That's going to let you set your shutter speed to a 60th of a second, and then take control of aperture, just as you normally would. Now, the way that I am getting my aperture changes here, again, is through Auto ISO. Notice that I can change this around, and my ISO is changing, but because I'm in Manual mode, I've got a fixed shutter speed.
So that's giving me the shutter speed that I want to get good quality motion in my video, but I'm still getting the depth of field control that I want through changes in aperture. It is possible that I might get to an aperture that the camera cannot compensate for with an ISO change. If that happens, then it's going to show me on my meter, just like it would when I am shooting manual mode for stills. If the image ends up overexposed or underexposed, this little mark is going to move back and forth, and I'm going to need to make an aperture change if I want to get things back to being properly metered.
Now, it might be that the camera is being more conservative than I would normally be, and I'm willing to put up with some video that's slightly dark, or slightly light. The point is, you've got that level of control when you're shooting in Manual mode. You've seen how autofocus works, both in the first movie in this chapter, and in the live view chapter. You can, of course, also use Manual focus to switch the lens over to manual focus, zoom in on your image, and focus carefully. The thing to remember when you're shooting video is that it is not going to autofocus while you move the camera around.
So you've got to be very, very careful about shooting video with an SLR. You've got to think of it more like an old-school movie camera, where you lock it down, and you treat focus very, very seriously. We've got some video on the card. In the next movie, we are going to take a look at how to review it, using the playback features.
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