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When you activate live view, your camera raises its mirror out of the way, so that light can get all the way through the lens, and back to the sensor that's back here. It's the sensor that creates the image that's shown on the LCD screen, so no live view image can be created when the mirror is down, and in the way of the sensor. Unfortunately, there's something else that happens when the mirror flips up. The autofocus sensors in your camera are located up here in the camera's pentaprism. Light from the lens gets bounced up here, and the autofocus sensors analyze it to calculate focus.
But when the mirror is flipped up, those sensors basically go blind, meaning your camera loses its normal autofocus capability. So when you're in live view, the camera has to use a different method to autofocus. By default, rather than relying on its autofocus sensors, the computer in your camera will analyze the image that the sensor is capturing, and focus accordingly. A practical upshot is that autofocus in live view is much slower than it is when you shoot normally. Your camera has some additional autofocus modes, though, that you can activate to help deal with this problem.
In the last movie, you saw how the Mark III's default autofocus works, and while it's good for a lot of situations, the camera does offer a couple of other live view autofocusing options. I'm going to go into the menu here, and on the very last page of the shooting category, I've got a bunch of live view Options. The second one is Auto Focus mode. It defaults to Live mode, which is what you've seen so far; that's where I get the one focus point in the middle of the screen that I can steer around with the multi-controller. If I pop this open, though, I have two other options. I have a really happy Live mode.
I think what this is actually referring to is face detection Live mode, so this will actually try to identify faces in your scene, and focus on those. And then I have Quick mode, which gets us back to using the camera's autofocus sensors, and it has a few different advantages over Live mode. I'm going to Set that right now, and go back into live view here. So things have changed here. I still have the box I had before, but now I have this other little box, which looks suspiciously to be the same size as one of the camera's standard focus points, and that's because it is.
This is actually my focus point now; this small box. The larger box is a metering box. So, a couple of things are cool here; I can meter independently of focus now, and I get faster, and more accurate focus. So this is actually a focusing point; one of the 61 that I have available. I can choose to focus right now on that focus point by half-pressing the shutter button, and the screen went black, and the camera beeped. So what happened was when I half-pressed the button, the mirror came back down.
That allowed light to get back up to my focus sensors. It quickly took a focus reading; once it had, it beeped to lock focus, and then it raised the mirror back up to give me live view. So when that mirror went down, my autofocus sensors could see, but my sensor no longer could, so my viewfinder went black. The camera makes a lot of noise and shakes during that also. The problem right now is I'm focusing on that part of the table, which I don't really want; I'd rather focus on this camera. I do that just like I would in normal shooting. I select a different focus point. So I'm going to press my focus point select button back here, and now I get this menu of all the different focus points I have, and I'm going to steer -- oops! Timed out there.
I'm going to steer over here with my multi-controller, and put it right there. If I wanted, I could also change focus point by using the quick control dial here. If I use the main dial, that will steer it around also. And this is showing me what focus mode I'm in. I can change that by pressing my multi-function button up here, and get all of the normal focus modes. In other words, I have the full autofocus system that I would normally have in normal shooting. So I'm going to accept that, and now when I autofocus you can see that it lit up green there.
It is autofocused on this point, which is great; that's where I want it. My metering box is still where it was. I can just drive that around with the quick controller, and if I put it on the camera, notice how my exposure brightened up so much, because now it's metering specifically off of the camera here. I think that's a little bright, so I'm going to ask it to underexpose, and try to pull it back down to a more reasonable exposure. If you're not sure of what a more reasonable exposure might be, then you'd probably want to bring up your histogram, because your histogram will update in real time as you dial in your exposure compensation.
If I didn't want to do exposure compensation, I could try to position my metering square somewhere else in the frame; an area that's not so black. So I have kind of split the difference here between the really bright where it was, and the really black over here, and I am getting a different exposure that way. So these are all ways that I can control exposure, in addition to just changing shutter speed and aperture. It's difficult to tell whether this is a faster way of focusing than using the normal Live mode. Live mode can take time to search around, but with this, I have got to wait through the process of it raising and lowering its mirror.
Most of the time, this probably will be a little bit faster. More importantly, it's going to be more accurate. There are going to be many times where you cannot get the live focusing mode to work. In fact, our original example was that way. Live focus could not focus on this point of the table, but in the regular quick focus mode, I can. So if you're having trouble focusing live view, you might want to change to this focus mode, because it's far more capable.
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